Skip to main content

Full text of "Jenkinson's Smaller Practical Guide to the Isle of Wight"

See other formats 


Google 



This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 

to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 

publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 
We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at |http: //books .google .com/I 




i/r 




GANSEVOORT-LANSING 
COLLECTION 

^^v^H ta the A&w Y^rk 'PuhUc Library 

j4aior Lenox and Tilden Foundations 

BY Victor Hugo Paltsits 

ander t/ie firms o/'lAe Iqsl will and teatameat of 

Catherine Gansevoort Lansing 

(Tranddauo'nrer of 

•'■>""•■■"■ 



(jeneral refer (jnni 

and widow of the 

HononaUe Jibraham L.nsine 

of^^l/>any.X-«yori 



— r ' 



\ 



\ 



V 



V 



V 



O 



s 




r I -'0. 












Cc 




••/ 



JENKINSON'S 






SMALLER PRACTICAL GUIDE 



TO THE ') ' 



ISLE OF WIGHT. 



BY 



HENRY IRWIN jfENKINSON, F.B.G.S. 

AUTHOB OF 'PRACTICAL GUIDE TO NORTH WALES/ 'PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE 
ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT/ 'PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF VAN.' 
* PRACTICAL GUIDE TO CARLI8LB, GIUIAND, ROK AN WALL 
AND NEIGHBOURHOOD/ ETO. 









t, J V , 



SECOND EDITION, WITH TWO MAPS. - 

rf 4. ■ • 



> -J J 



4 ••' 



--.' ' 






' W 



J -J 



.J ■J ' U ■• 



i J 



LONDON: 
EDWARD 8TANF0ED, 55, OHABING OBOSS, S.W . 

1879. 

ur 



THE NEW YORK 

PUBLIC 1. 1 CHARY 

48925A 

ASTOn. LPNOX AND 

riLDCN F )UNDATIONS 

R 1022 L 



* • • 






• • « > . fc 



• • •• . » , • 



• » 



• • • •. • > • 



■ -• • • 
• • • t 



.»<•*.• 



• » 



. . • • • • . • • • • 

• * • ••• ••« 






PREFACE. 



-*^*- 



Great pains have been taken to make this book 
exlianstive, accurate, and practical. 

Numerous works, both old and new, have been 
consulted; the whole of the manuscript has been 
sabmitted, in portions, to persons thoronghly conver- 
sant with the history and topography of different di s- 
tricts of the island; and the guiding matter is the 
result of a personal visit to every place mentioned 
and of memoranda made on the spot. 

The author ventures to hope that the book will be 
fonnd trustworthy, and prove instructive and useful 
to both strangers and residents. 

The writer tenders his best thanks to the numerous 
gentlemen who have given him valuable assistance, 
especiaily the Eev. C. T. Fisher, of Yarmouth; J. 
Woodrow, Esq., of Brading; J. Withers, Esq., of 
Sandown ; and A. G. More, Esq., of the Natural His- 
tory Museum, Eoyal Dublin Society. 

Letters containing suggestions for the improvement 
of future editions, and pointing out errors in the 
present issue, may be addressed to Henbt Ibwin 
JumKSOK, Keswick, Cumberland. 



a 2 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Intboduction • ix 



RYDE SECTION. 

Ryde .. 1 

Ryde to Sea View and St. Helens, by the seashore .. .. 10 

n jy „ by the road 14 

„ Binstead Chnrch, Qnarr Abbey, Fishboome, and 
Wootton; and back by Haven Street and Alder- 
moor Mill 17 

„ Newport, by Wootton Bridge 23 

„ „ by Haven Street and Stapler's Heath .. 25 
„ Ashey Down and Nnnwell, by Aldermoor Mill, and 

back by Smallbrook 26 

n Brading, Sandown, Shanklin, Bonchnrch, and Ventnor 29 

„ Yentnor, by railway ^ .. .. .. 39 

„ Newport, by railway ., .. 41 



SANDOWN SECTION. 

Saadown .. .. 42 

Sandown to Shanklin, by the shore 45 

„ „ by the clifb .. 46 

„ Red Cliff 47 

„ Bembridge Down, the Cnlver Cliffi, and White- 

cliffBay 48 

„ Yaverland and Bembridge, and back by the sea- 
shore .. .. .. .. .. 52 

n Brading, Ashey, Messly, and Arreton downs .. 57 

„ Alverstone, Knighton, and Newchurch •• .. 61 

„ Queen's Bower • •• 64 



VI 00NTENT8. 



SHANKLIN SECTION. 

PAOB 

Shanklin 66 

Shanklin Chine 68 

Luccombe Chine 71 

Shanklin to Cook's Castle, and Shanklin Down • 72 

„ Apse, America, Ilinham, and Languard .. .. 74 



VENTNOR SECTION. 

Ventnor , .. 75 

Bonchurch 78 

Ventnor to Shanklin, by the sea-cliffs and the Luidslip .. 83 

„ „ by the seashore 86 

Ascent of St. Boniface Down 87 

Ventnor to Freshwater, Alum Bay, and The Needles ; by the 

Undercliff, Black Gang, and Brixton .. .. 90 

„ Black Gang, by the sea-clifis .. 107 

„ „ by the seashore 110 

„ Black Gang and St. Catherine's Down, by the 

Inland Cliff; and back by Niton and Whitwell 112 
„ Carisbrooke and Newport, by Black Gang, Chale, 
and Gatcombe ; and back by Arreton, Godshill, 

and Appuldurcombe .. 118 

Ascent of Steephill, Week, and Appnldnrcombe Downs .. 127 

Black Gang to Freshwater Gate, by the sea-clifis .. .. 129 

„ «„ by the seashore .. .^ 132 



FRESHWATER SECTION. 

Freshwater 135 

A walk oyer the High Down to Scratchell's Bay, The 

Needles, and Alum Bay .. .. .. 137 

A sail from Freshwater Gate to the Caves under the Main 
Bench Cliffs, and thence to Scratchell's Bay, The Needles, 

fnd Alum Bay .. 143 

A walk along the seashore from Alum Bay to Tarmouth, 

and thence to Cowes .. 147 

HeadonHill 150 

Alum Bay to Yarmouth, by the road 150 

Yarmouth .. .. 151 

Yarmouth to Newport, by Shalfleet 153 

Freshwater Gate to Newport, by Calbourne 156 

„ Carisbrooke and Newport, along the tops 

of the Downs 159 



• • 



CONTENTS. VU 

COWES SECTION. 

PAGE 

Cowes 163 

Slatwoods, Korris Castle, East Cowes Castle, Osborne House, 

Whippingham Church, and Northwood Church .. .. 166 

Newport 172 

Carisbrooke : the Castle, Roman Villa, Church, and Priory 180 

Newport to West Cowes, by Parkhurst Barracks and Prison 185 

„ Shorwell 186 

Ascent of Pan Down and St. George's Down, from Newport 187 

A walk from West Cowes, round North wood Park Wall .. 189 
West Cowes to Gurnard Bay and Newtown, and to Newport 

through Parkhurst Forest 189 

Cowes to Ryde, by Wootton Bridge 191 

Index .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 195 



INTRODUCTION. 

The Isle of Wight is separated from the coast of EEampshire 
by the river-like channel of the Solent Sea, which varies in 
breadth from 1 mile to 7 miles. The island is 23 miles long, 
its greatest breadth is 13 miles, and in shape it has be^ 
likened to a turbot, and to a bird with expanded wings. The 
area is 149 square miles, or about 100,000 acres, and the 
population in 1871 was 65,883. In its broadest part it is 
spUt into two nearly equal portions by the river Medina, and 
another great natural division is the range of chalk downs, 
averaging 600 feet in height, which extends from the Culver 
CMa on the east to the Needles on the west. For eccle- 
siastical purposes the island is included in the See of 
Winchester, and for all general purposes it forms part of the 
ooonty of Hampshire. It returns two members to Parlia- 
ment, one for the whole island, and another for the town of 
Newport. 

Visitors enter the island at either Eyde, Gowes, or Yar^ 
mouth. 

The traffic from London to the Isle of Wight is competed 
for by the London and South- Western, and the London, 
Brighton, and South Coast railways, and through tickets 
are issued; the fares by both routes beii^ the same. The 
London and South- Western Railway runs from the Waterloo- 
road station to Stokes Bay, via Winchester, a distance of 
83 miles. This company has just completed the doubling of 
to line, in order to &cilitate the increasing traffic. Steamiers 
are in waiting at the pier, close to the station, and the distance 
across the Solent to Hyde is 3 miles, the sail occupying twenty 
minutes. This Hallway has also a direct line from London to 
Portsmouth Harbour station, measuring 76 miles. A few 
words in connection with this station may be of interest. 
Formerly passengers to the Isle of Wight arrived at the Land- 
port station, which was then the terminus of the London and 
oouth-Western, and London, Brighton, and South Coast 
railways, and were conveyed by a tramway to Southsea pier, 
where they embarked for Ryde, or elsewhere. This arrange- 
ment involved much loss of time and inconvenience, and the 
joint companies, at considerable expense, extended their line 
to Portsmouth Harbour, where a handsome and commodious 

b 



X INTSODUOnON. 

station and pier was constructed, and opened for general 
traffic in October, 1876. 67 this means passengers and their 
luggage are transmitted from the London stations without 
change of carriage to the pier, from which the steamers caji 
start at all states of tide or weather. The same companies 
having obtained parliamentaiy powers are now taking steps 
to extend the railway at Byde in a similar manner, a con- 
siderable undertaking, which will take some time to complete, 
and which will have the effect of doing away with the incon- 
venience and loss of time consequent on the journey from the 
Pier Head to St. John's Road railway station. In course 
of time the joint companies will, we understand, establish a 
service of steamboats of their own, which will greatly tend to 
facilitate communication between the mainland and the 
island, the distance between which is about 4 miles, and is 
traversed in 25 minutes. The London, Brighton, and South 
Coast Railway runs from London Bridge station to the same 
station at Portsmouth, by what is known as the Mid Sussex 
route, in length 88 miles, affording some beautiful and inte- 
resting scenery en route, mduding BoxhiU, the interesting 
ruins of Amberley Castle, Arundel Castle, the present seat of 
the Duke of Norfolk, and Chichester Cathedral. Some per- 
sons will reach Portsmouth by the more circuitous route via 
Brighton. Occasionally parties will stay a few hours at 
Portsmouth to inspect the dockyard, the gun wharf, and the 
men-of-war in the harbour. If it be not thought desirable to 
break the journey in order to inspect Portsmouth, a special 
visit might afterwards be made to the place from Byde, either 
by the steamers or by a small boat. The voyage across to the 
Isle of Wight is very pleasant, the water in general 'being 
smooth, and sea-sickness of rare occurrence. The forts and 
ships at Portsmouth are no sooner left behind than the beau- 
tiful wooded shores of the island become more clearly spread 
to view, the town of Byde being direct in front, rising steeply 
from the water, and on the left of it the ground of St. John, 
Appley, Sprii^ Vale, Sea View, and Bembridge ; and on the 
right Binstead, Wootton Creek, Swing's Quay, and the towers 
of Osborne house. 

Those who enter the island at Cowes generally travel by 
the London and South-Western Railway to Southampton, 
distance 78 miles, from whence they have a pleasant sail of 
14 miles ; first down the Southampton Water, passing Netley 
Abbey and Netley Hospital on the left, and on the right the 
village of Hythe and Calshot Castle, and then across the 
Solent, with views on either hand of the shores of the Isle of 



DmtODUOTION. Itl 

Wight, the mouth of the Medina river, with the houses pf 
Gowes and the towers of Norris Castle. 

Gowes may also be reached by steamers, which sail from 
Portsmouth. 

Persons residing in the south-west of England often find it 
most convenient to enter the Isle of Wight at Yarmouth by 
steamer from Lymington (distant from London 97 miles;, 
and it is also a good route for those from other parts who are 
anxious to visit the New Forest district, or to go direct to 
Freshwater or Alum Bay. One or two days may be spent 
agreeably in travelling from Southampton to Lymington, 
through the heart of the New Forest, via Lyndhurst and 
Brockenhurst, or via Hythe and Beaulieu. Having entered 
the island at Ryde or Cowes, it would be a pleasant change to 
letum by way of Yarmouth and Lymington, and thence 
through the New Forest. This is the shortest sail across the 
Solent, not being more than 2 miles, but the voyage is 
increased to 4 mUes, owing to Lymington being some way 
np the river. During the summer months steamers sail 
regularly between Yarmouth, Cbwes, and Eyde, and all the 
year round between the two latter places. 

The Isle of Wight has been spoken of as '* The Garden 
Isle;** "A gem set in the silver seaj" "The miniature 
abstract of all that is grand and lovely in England ; " and the 
old poet, Driiy ton, says of it : 

'* Of all the southern isles she holds the highest place, 
And evermore hath been the great'st in Britain's grace," 

These* remarks may seem high praise to those who have 
made only a partial acquaintance with the island, but not to 
one who has acquired a thorough knowledge i of it by for<^ 
saking the familiar roads, mounting the hills in all directions, 
threading his way through the lanes and valleys, visiting the 
pietty cottage homes, stopping at wayside inns as well as the 
large hotels, and exploring the interesting coast scenery. 

Some of the northern and central parts of the island are 
comparatively tame and uninteresting, and Englefield in his 
'Picturesque Beauties of the Isle of Wight' speaks of those 
parts of the island as being " in general as destitute of beauty 
as any tract of the same extent in England ; " but some may 
think this too low an estimate, for "Dr. Arnold says, '* I cer- 
tainly was agreeably surprised rather than disappointed by 
all the scenery. I admired the interior of the island, which 
people affect to sneer at, but which I think is very superior 



Zil INTBODVOIION. 

to most of the scenery of common coonties.* Whatever may 
be the tourist's opinion of this debatable part of the island, 
all will s^ree that the southern or ^ back part " is extremely 
lovely, and one of the most charming spots in Great Britain. 
Well may it be denominated ** the Garden of England," for 
in some parts, especially in the district of the Undercliff, 
beautiful exotics flourish in the utmost luxuriance ; almost 
every house, and garden, and hedge by the roadside being 
covered with vines, myrtles, fuchsias, or geraniums, which 
attain a great size, and Hve throughout the winter without 
protection. The climate is so mild and salubrious that the 
general invalid, and those far reduced by the insidious 
disease of consumption, hasten to it to regain strength or to 
stop the advance of disease ; and although many go there 
too late for aught save to die, yet it has, notwithstanding, a 
lower death-rate than almost any other part of the kingdom ; 
and this is attested by the many records of octogenarians, 
and of those of still greater age, met with in the village 
churchyards throughout the island. 

Truly also may the island be denominated *^ a gem set in 
the silver sea,** for the views of the wide expanse of ocean 
to the south, and the lovely winding Solent on the north 
side, impart to it that peculiar charm which makes it dwell 
so pleasantly in the memory in future years. Its surround- 
ing waters also make it the first yachting rendezvous in the 
world, a perfect paradise for those fond of aquatic excursions. 
The geologist and the lovers of picturesque scenery will 
delight in the coast, especially in the south^n part of the 
island; and the pedestrian will look on scenes truly en- 
chanting by ascending the summits of the downs. 

One noticeable feature of the island is the general absence 
of vulgarity, and the refinement of the residents and visitors, 
which probably arises partly from the subdued and lovely 
character of its scenery and the mildness of its climate, but 
principally from the aristocratic character of many of its 
visitors, the presence of royalty, and the absence of the 
manufacturing element, owing to the distance from the 
^ noise and smoke of town." AH these advantages combine 
to attract the visitor, who can hardly fail to leave the place 
with regret, and to agree with the opinion expressed by Sir 
Walter Scott, who described it as "that beautiful island 
which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever 
part of the world his future path may lead him. 



•• 






4 






JenhauunCe STivaJlerjProLOtLccCL GutcLe' to tKe/ JaZe' of 




isa, 



Tl 



r 



SHEWING THE 



m. i** ^- ■ 




9l» of 



PRACTICAL GUIDE 



TO THE 



SLE OF WIGHT. 




BYDE SECTION. 



-•^^ 



BTDE. 

>E is a pleasant and fashionable watering-plaoe, situated 

jposite Portsmouth, on wooded land rising steeply from the 

>f -J»re. The streets are clean, open, and well-paved, and the 

J Jpps are good. Around the town are handsome villas, in 

\ midst of beautiful grounds, occupied by many of the 4liU 

the aristocracy. Although Ryde cannot boast of noble 

^wns and grand coast scenery, such as is to be met with in 

south, or what is denominated '* the back of the island," 

possesses some delightfully shady walks, and commands an 

^tractive prospect towards Portsmouth, and the Hampshire 

pd Sussex coasts, across an expanse of sea ever alive with 

^^^ips of all sizes, from the swift and graceful yacht, to the 

fuge unwieldy-looking man-of-war. As nine-tenths of the 

fisitors to the island first land here, Ryde has rarely, if ever, 

''a sleepy look ; and, as the head-quarters of the Royal Victoria 

Tacbt Club, the trim craft of the members impart in summer 

extra life and animation to its waters, and during their annual 

^Tegatta there is collected in the town much of the wealth and 

fashion of the land. 

In 1871 Ryde contained a population of 12,576, being the 
largest town on the island ; whereas near the end of the last 
century it only consisted of two tiny villages, there being a 

B 



2 BTDB SECTION. 

few fishermen's huts on the beach, and a small group of houses 
on the top of the hill. On the intermediate ground, where 
Union Street now stands, there were fields and a thick grove 
of stately elms, the battle-ground of the lads of the two ham- 
lets, between whom a bitter enmity existed, which broke out, 
as occasion offered, into open hostilities, when a party would 
sally forth from the lower town armed with sticks and stones 
to do battle with those of the upper town, or the upper would 
send down a detachment to take reprisals on their longshore 
enemies. 

Fielding, the novelist^ was detained here for sotne days in 
1753, when on his voyage to Lisbon in quest of health, and 
he has left us a humorous and somewhat satirical, but vivid 
description of the place. He says : '* As to its situation, I 
think it most delightful, and on the most pleasant spot in the 
whole island. It is true it wants the advantages of that 
beautiful river which leads from Newport to Cowes ; but the 
prospect here extending to the sea, and taking in Portsmouth, 
Spitnead, and St. Helens, would be more than a recompense 
for the loss of the Thames itself, even in the most delightful 

Eart of Berkshire or Buckinghamshire, though another Den- 
am or another Pope should unite in celebrating it. For my 
own part, I confess myself so entirely fond of a sea prospect, 
that I think nothing on the land can equal it, and if it be set 
off with shipping, 1 desire to borrow no ornament from the 
terra firma. A fleet of ships is, in my opinion, the noblest 
object which the art of man hath ever produced, and far 
beyond the power of those architects who deal in bricks, in 
stone, or in marble. This pleasant village is situated on a 
gentle ascent from the water, whence it affords that charmin^ 
prospect I have described. Its soil is a gravel, which, assisted 
with a declivity, preserves it always so dry, that immediately 
after the most violent rain a fine lady may walk v^ithont 
wetting her silken shoes. The fertiUty of the place is appa- 
rent from its extraordinary verdure, and it is so shaded with 
large and flourishing elms, that its narrow lanes are a natural 
grove or walk, which in the regularity of its plantation vies 
with the power of art, and in its wanton exuberance greatiy 
exceeds it." Little had at that time been done to overcome 
the difficulties of access, or render the village when reached 
agreeable to visitors. " Between the sea and the shore at low 
water,* he continues, "there is an impassable gulf of mnd 
and sand, which c^ neither be traversed by walking nor 
«wimming, so that- for near one half of the twenty-four hours 



BIDE. 3 

Byde is inaocessible by friend or foe.** At that time there 
was no pier or even landingHstage, and when the poor 
shattered novelist wished to land, he was hoisted into a small 
boat, and being rowed pretty near, was taken up by two 
sailors, who wi^ed with him through the mud and placed 
him on a chair on the shore. 

After landing, Fielding was lodged in a comfortless inn, 
** built with the materials of a wreck, sunk down with age 
on one side, and in the form of a ship with gunwales ; " and 
here he had an extortionate virago as hostess, whose com- 
plaisant husband " wished not for anything, thought not of 
anything — ^indeed, scarce did anything or said anything," 
replying to all remonstrances with, '' I don't know anything 
about It, sir, I leaves all that to my wife." The bills daily 
increased, " a pennyworth of fire rated to-day at a shilling, 
to-morrow at eighteenpence," "two dishes dressed for two 
shillings on Saturday, and half-a-crown charged for the 
oooMng of one on Sunday/ On Fielding remonstrating, he 
received an indignant retort from his extortionate and 
shrewish landlady. " Candles 1 why, yes, to be sure ; why 
should not travellers pay for candles ? I am sure I pay for 
mine 1 " and then she closed with a lamentation at the small- 
ness of her bill, after every charge which a landlady's 
ingenuity could invent or a landlady's conscience allow had 
been introduced; *'she didn't know that she had omitted 
anything, htU it was hut a poor hiU for gentlefolks to pay,^ 
When the great satirist wanted a cup of tea he discovered 
that '' the whole town could not supply a single leaf ; for as 
to what his landlady and the shopman called by that name, 
it was not of Chinese growth, but a tobacco of the mundungus 
species." Fresh meat was not to be had, for " the butcher 
never killed ox or sheep during the beans and bacon season." 

Captain Marryat, in his *Poor Jack,' tells us: ''The 
wherries came out as far as they could, and were met by a 
horse and cart, which took out the passengers and carried 
them through the mud and water to the hard ground." 
Amusing tales are told of inconvenient accidents occasioned 
by jibbing or unruly horses, or the loss of the " cart pins," 
which involved the precipitation of the whole freight back- 
wards into the ooze and slime. 

Though so small, Byde appears to have been considered a 
place of some importance. In the reign of Edward III., 
when a French invasion of the island was apprehended, in 
1340, all ingress and egress was forbidden except at La Biche 

B 2 



4 BTDE sEonoir, 

(Ryde)^ Shamblord (East Cowes), and Tarmontb. A ^watcli 
was ordered to be kept at Hyde to give notice of the 
approach of an enemy, the watchhouse standing oq the sits 
now occupied by the coffee-room of the Pier Hotel ; but in 
spite of all precautions the island was seized by the Frraicfa 
at the commencement of the reign of Richard 11., and Bjde 
was burnt to the ground. In the reign of Henry VIEI., when 
blockhouses were planted at Sandown, Cowes, and Yarxnonthf 
a ^* bulwark," with a single gun, was mounted for the defence 
of Ryde. 

From a view taken in 1796 we learn that a small stage 
had been erected for the convenience of shipping the lamlv 
which then, as now, were exported in large numbers for the 
London market. In 1815 this rude jetty gave place to a 
pier 1740 feet in length, erected by a joint-stock compasj, 
and this has since been gradually increisBsed until it reaches 
2305 feet, with a wide pierhead, made convenient for access 
to and from the steamers at all states of the tide. A tram- 
way, laid alongside for the conveyance of passengers and 
luggage, is continued through the town to the railway 
station, about one mile distant. Passengers to Ryde are 
booked through to the town end of the pier. Local pas- 
sengers pay, first-class, 6d,, second-class, bd. Those who 
are carried to the railway station, unless they are booked 
through to their destination, pay, first-class, Is. 2d,, second- 
class, Is, 

The pier is a fashionable promenade, to which the pnblie 
are admitted at 2d, each person. Yearly tickets, 10s. The 
view from the pierhead is very beautiful. The Solent, 
which appears like a wide river or estuary, has a pleasing 
effect with its vessels of all descriptions moving in every 
direction; and the opposite coasts are well displayed and 
charmingly diversified. The eye wanders along the well- 
wooded shores of the island, from the hamlet of Sea View to 
the towers of Osborne and Norris Castle. The town of Ryde 
is in full view directly in front, and to the left of it the 
attractive grounds of St. John's, Appley Towers, St. Clare, 
and Spring Vale, whilst to the right are Westfield, Ryde 
House, Binstead, and Wootton Estuary ; and in a line with 
the latter, on the anchorage designated Motherbank, there 
are three warlike vessels, now used for quarantine purposes^ 
which present picturesque objects in the foreground. Turning 
to the opposite coast, a long tract is visible, studded with 
houses, ships, and forts, and in the background the chalk 



BTDB« 6 

• 

hills of Portadown* In front are Stokes Bay, Portsmouth, 
and Southsea ; with Southampton Water, Galshot Castle, and 
the New Forest to the left ; and to the right Hayling Island, 
Chichester Cathedral^ Selsey Bill, and the distant waters of 
the English GhanneL 

The new, or Victoria Pier, situated a little to the eastward 
of the other, was built by a rival company* It was designed 
to be of the same length as the old pier ; but frequent litiga-* 
.tion with the town commissioners impeded its progress, and 
serious damage having been done to the works by a gale, 
the shareholders became involved in difiBculties and the pier 
was purchased by the original Byde Pier Company, who have 
utilized it by erecting public baths at its extremity. Tickets 
for the baths are charged sixpence each. There is also a free 
bathing stage on the shore in front of the esplanade, and 
another bathing place where machines may be hired ; and there 
.are various baling establishments in the town. ** The shore 
of Ryde was, about the middle of the last century, little better 
than a oontinuous waste of mud, which is rather remarkable, 
as at present there is a thick and increasing layer of fine white 
•aand, sufficiently firm to support wheel carric^es. The descent, 
however, is so very little that at low water it becomes almost 
an extensive level, and after having been exposed seven or 
eight hours to a powerful sim, in cahn wealJier the sea as 
it flows is rendered nearly equal to a warm bath/' 
, To the right of the pier is the Koyal Victoria Yacht Club 
House, a handsome building with a noble portico, erected in 
1847, the foundation stone having been laid the previous year 
by H.R.H. the late Prince Consort, The club was established 
in 1845, and is under the patronage of Her Majesty and 
other distinguished personages. Its annual regatta and ball 
are generally held about the second week in August, and offer 
attractions equal to any in the kingdom. Tbere is also a 
town regatta held shortly afterwards, for the purpose of giving 
. encouragement to deserving watermen ; the sailing matches 
are confined to wherries belonging to Byde. The wherries 
are of a large size, and are said by nautical men to be as fine 
sea-boats as can be met with anywhere. 

Leaving the pier we enter the Esplanade^ which forms a 
delightful drive and promenade on the margin of the sea, and 
extends from the pier to Appley Point, a distance of about 
1200 feet ; this, and the adjoining mansions^ cover ground 
which was formerly known as the Dover, and consisted of 
waste sandy sliore, with a few grassy hillocks marking the 



6 BTDB BscrrioN. 

last resting place of many of tbe men who perished in the 
wreck of &e Boyal George, whose bodies came ashore here. 
Englefield, writing in 1801, says : ** The footpath from Ryde to 
Appley and 8t. John's crosses a small and rather marshy 
meadow, with a streamlet passing through it, having a stone 
arched bridge, and a sluice to keep out the tides. Near this 
stream several rows of graves still rise above the general level 
of the turf. These I had often noticed without a suspicion 
of what they really were, till one day meeting an old fisher- 
man, I asked him why these heaps so like graves had been 
thrown up. The man in a low tone, and with a sad look, 
said, 'They are graves; the bodies cast ashore after the 
loss of the Royal George were buried here. We did not 
much like drawing a net hereabout for some weeks afterwards; 
we were always bringing up a corpse.' " This magnificent 
man-of-war of 106 guns, the pride of the English nation in 
the time of George III., sank about half-way between Ryde 
and Portsmouth, August 29, 1782, by a sudden squall 
while undergoing careening, when nearly one thousand 
persons perished. Having been heeled too much on one 
side with her gunports open, a sudden squall threw her 
on her beam ends, so that the flag at her masthead actnally 
dipped into the sea ; then rolling in the opposite direction, 
her yardarms met the surface of the waves ; she righted, but 
unfortunately had by this time shipped so much water, 
that it was only to sink almost immediately. All who 
were between decks, the Admiral included, were involved 
in one common fate ; but the majority of those who happened 
to be on the upper deck, were rescued by the boats dispatched 
to their assistance. A victualler which had been quietly lying 
alongside shared in the calamity, being literally sucked to 
the bottom by the whirlpool occasioned through the sudden 
descent of so vast a fabric as the Royal George, at 'that time 
the leviathan of our navy. The sad event, it is scarcely 
needfal to say, has been commemorated by Gowper in the 
following noble lines : — 

" Toll for the brave, 

The brave that are no more ! 
All sunk beneath the wave, 
Fast by their native shore t 

** Eight hundred of the brave, 

Whose courage well was tried, 
Had made the vessel heel, 
And laid her on her side. 



SYXMB* 

*' A land-breeze shook the shrouds, • 
And she was overset : 
Down went the Royal George, 

With all her crew complete. 

« 

'* Toll for the brave! 

3rav6 Kempenfelt is gone ; 
His last sea-iight is fonght> 
His work of glory done. 

*' It was not in the battle ; 

No tempest gave the shock ; 
She sprang no fatal leak ; 
She ran upon no rock. 

*' His sword was in its sheath, 
His finger held the pen. 
When Kempenfelt went down, 
With twice four hundred men. 

** Weigh the vessel up, 

Once dreaded by our foes I 
And mingle with our cup 
The tear that Ei^glanj], owes. 

" Her timbers yet ai^ sotind. 
And she may flo&t ag'ain. 
Full charged with England's thunder. 
And plough the 'distant main. ' 

■ » » » 

*' But Kempenfelt isgone^ 
His victories are «'er; 
And he and his eight hundred 
Shall plough the. waves no mcore." 

PlACBS OV WOBfiBXP, 

All faints' Church, Queen's Road. 

Holy Trinity Church, Dover Street; 

St. James' Church, Lind Street. 

St. Thomas' Church, St. Thomas Street. 

St. Michael and All Angels' Church, Swanmore. 

St. John's Church, DistricJt Chtrrchof St; Helens. 

Independent Chapel, George Street. 

W^sleyan Chapl, Kelson Street* 

Baptist Chapel, George Street. 

Baptist Chapel, Park Road. 

Primitive Methodist Chapel, Star Street. 

Bible Christian Chapel, Newport Street, 

Plymouth Brethren, Albert Street. 

Roman Catholic Chapel, High Street, 



8 BTDB SKOTION. 

Public Buildings And Oppicbs. 

Town Hall and Market Place, Lind Street. 

Theatre, St. Thomas* Square, between High Street and 

Union Street. 
Post Office and Telegraph Office, Union Street. 
School of Art and Museum, George Street. 
Royal Victoria Arcade, Union Street. 
National Provincial. Bank, Union Street. 
Hampshire Banking Company, Union Street, 
Tacht Clubhouse, Pier Street. 
Victoria Rooms, Lind Street. 
Masonic Hall, John Street. 
National Schools, Green Street. 
Holy Trinity School, Player Street. 
Toung Men s Christian Association, Lind Street. 
Cemetery, south of the town. 
Lifirmary, Swanmore Road. 
Conservatiye Club. 

Hotels. 

Esplanade Hotel •• •• Esplanade. 

Pier „ ' •• .4 Close to the Pier. 

Eagle „ •• •. Opposite the Piei;. 

Sivier's „ .. .. Pier Street, close to Clubhouse. 

Royal Kent „ .. .. Union Street. 

Yelf's „ •• •• Union Street. 

York „ •• •• George Street. 

Belgrave „ •• «• Nelson Street. * 

Crown „ .. .. High Street. 

Castle „ «• •• High Street. 

Strand „ •* •• Strand. 

Star Hotel High Street. 

LivBBT Stables. 

Pier Hotel .. •• •• .. .« Close to the Her* 

Royal Kent Hote^ .« Union Street. 

Young •• •• •« Union Street. 

Carter • •• •• John Street. 

Cotton .. •• •• Simeon's Arms. 

Woodford •• •• •• •• .. Strand. 

' Newspapebs* 

« Isle of Wight Observer.' Published on Fridays. Price 1 Jdl 

* Isle of Wight Times.* Published on Wednesiiay evenings. Price 

* Ryde News.* Published on Saturdays. Price \d. 
< Ventilator.' Published on Saturdays. Price l<f. 



BTDE. S 

Baths. 

^ hemp's Hotel .. • Esplanade. 

Victoria Pier ,i «. <• .. Esplanade. 

Coaches, 

Coaches leare the Esplanade, and the Castle Inn, in John Street, 
many times daily, for Wootton Bridge, Newport, and Carishrookd 
Castle ; also for Shanklin, otd Brading and Sandown. 

An omnibna conveys passengers from the pier gates to the station. 
Fare, d(f. 

Steamebs. 

Steamers leave the pierhead many times a day for Sonthsea, 
Portsmouth, and Stokes Bay, and less frequently for Cowes, South-* 
ampton, Yarmouth, and Lymington. 

Daring the summer months steamers often make excursions round 
the Isle of Wight. 

Railway Trains. 

Trains run many times daily to Newport, Ventnor, Sandowni 
Shanklin, Cowes, &c 

Post Office Delivery. 
Letters are delivered in Ryde three times a day. 

Boats. 

One of the favourite recreations at Ryde is boating, for which the 
smoothness of the water and the beauty of the shores present great 
temptations* There is a perfect fleet of small rowing and sfuling 
boats lying off the pier waiting to be hired ; the usual charge for 
the former is Is. 6kf., and for the latter 2s. 6(f. an hour, including 
boatman. The usual excursions are round the men-of-war lying at 
Spithead, round the Nab Light, to Bembridge, Osboi'ne, Cowes, or 
up the Southampton Water to Netley Abbey. 

Carriages. 

There is no lack of carriages for hire, either for long or short 
excursions. The Bye-laws (a copy of which every driver is bound 
to carry with him, and which may be consulted in case of any dis« 
pute) flx the fares, including the driver's fee, at Is. 6e?. per mile 
for any distance not exceeding three miles, and I5. 3d. per mile for 
any distance beyond three miles ; or 2s. ^, per hour for one-horse 
carriages, and 3s. 60?. per hour for two-horse carriages, the corre* 
sponding charges per day are 2O5. and 27s. 

For short distances in certain parts of Ryde the charge is Is., and 
for longer distances in the town Is. 6cf. There are also special 
bye-laws regulating the charges for wheel-chairs. , 



}0 BTDE SXOTION. 



Byde to Sed View and St. Helezust by the 

. Seash.pre. 

Spring Yale, If miles ; Sea View, 2| miles ; St. Helens, 5 miles. 

This delightful walk may be lengthened or shortened at 
pleasure, and it is the one which the stranger will naturally 
first undertake after his arrival at Ryd& 

Leaving the town by the esplanade, and continuiufi; along 
the sea-wall, Appley house is passed, and the private pier of 
Sir William Hutt, Bart., of Appley Towers, is reached. 
Appley house, the residence of Mr. Claj^ton, is spoken of by 
one writer as being *' the most enchanting of all the spots in 
this beautiful tract of country." It stands on the site of a 
house which was formerly occupied by a notorious smu^ler 
named Boyce, who for a long series of years had been engt^ged 
in the illicit trade in the " back of the island,*' but havmg 
sufficiently increased his store, he purchased Appley, and 
retired there, seemingly far removed from his former con- 
nections and avocations ; he even aspired to a seat in the 
legislature, smuggling not then being looked upon as a very 
heinous o^ence. Boyce was, however, induced to return to 
his former pursuits, in conjunction with a person living near 
Gosport ; they arranged a code of signals, and many a cargo 
was successfully run on to his estate. He was for a time 
prosperous, but eventually falling Into the hands of the 
executive he was exchequered, his ill-gotten wealth ocm- 
fiscated, and he himself confined to the King's Bench prison, 
where he died in 1740. While living at Appley one of his 
former associates applied to him for help, but he denied all 
knowledge of him, saying, when he attempted to refresh his 
memory by relating some story of their former acquaintance, 
— " Now's now, and then's then." 

As the traveller proceeds the sea dashes, at high tide, close 
to his feet, and he has a fine view across the Solent to Ports- 
mouth. Ships of all sizes are seen speeding in every direction, 
and the round forts of Horse and Neman are prominent 
objects in midchannel. 

At Puckpool, 1} miles from Byde, formerly spoken of as ''a 
^ot that seemed marked by its mild and gentle beauties «s 
the favourite resort of fairies," there is a mortar batteiy, 
being one of the outer forts for the protection of Portsmouth. 
The battery contains four guns and thirty mortars, and is 
'^cupied by some men of the Royal Artillery. Close by 



BBA TISW. 11 

there is tbe Battery Hotel, a coastguard station, and the 
pleasant villas of Spring Yale. Here the walk might be 
lessened to 3 miles by branching to the right, at the west 
end of the Tillas, and returning to Kyde by the road which 
passes the grounds of St. Glare. Another path leads to Ryde 
from the east end of the villas. 

Proceeding along the shore for half a mile by a cart track 
across the Coney Dover, with a view inland over a level 
pasture to well-wooded ground, the Salterns are reached^ 
where salt nsed to be manufactured from sea-water ; but this 
process has been discontinued, and the houses are now let to 
visitors. Passing through a turnstile, and along a path by 
the sea-wall, the delightful little villi^ of Sea View is 
quickly gained. This is a pleasant retreat for those who 
are fond of a quiet seaside nook away from the bustle and 
gaiety of Ryde. It is a clean picturesque place, principally 
inhabited by pilots; contains good lodging houses, a small 
church, Wesleyan and Baptist chapels, and a cosy inn. 
the Oak. The stump of the original old oak tree is still 
standing on the causeway in front of the house. There is 
also the Crown Hotel. Here are excellent sands, good 
bathing ground, numerous pleasure boats cmd canoes, and in 
the rear of the village is a charming sylvan country, witii 
inviting rural walks and drives. The attractions are so 
varied that many persons will probably consider this one of 
the most delightful spots on the whole island. Those who 
do not wish to extend tbe walk may return hence to Ryde, 
via Nettlestone, by the road, a distance of S( miles, thus 
making the whole journey a distance of 6 miles. The houses 
of Sea View cluster round a somewhat bold pointy known as 
Nettlestone Point, or Old Fort, from a blockhouse that 
formerly stood here for the defence of the island. Tbe French, 
in their attempted invasion under D'Annebault in 1646, 
landed here and attacked a fort which had annoyed their 
galleys. The garrison purposely abandoned the place on the 
approach of the enemy, and the fort was then destroyed. 

Continuing along the seashore, a number of children will 
in all likelihood be seen in Sea Grove bay, building their 
mimic castles on the sands ; and a fine view is had in front 
of the richly-wooded headlands as far as Bembridge Point. 
With the white-crested waves ever advancing and receding at 
the traveller's feet, and rank vegetation and thick coppices on 
his right, he becomes exhilarated, and wends his way with a 
feelicg of health and freedixn. Rounding OrcHBtone Point| 



12 BTDB BBonoy. 

where there are a few scattered masses of rock, Priory Bay ii 
entered. The sea would quickly wash away the cUfib here 
were it not for the hreakwater which has been built to protect 
them from its ravages, and even now it constantly makes 
(^nings, and is with great difficulty kept back« At high 
tide it is fine to see the strife between the advancing waves 
and those which have been thrown back from the mural 
barrier. Priory Bay is bounded by Watch House or Nodes 
Point, where in former days a watch of ten men by day, and 
four by night was stationed, with a beacon ready to be fired, 
to guard this exposed comer of the island from the attacks of 
the invader, the protected anchorage and easy landing render- 
ing this point a favourite place of attack. After passing 
Watch House Point a lovely view is had of the village and 
finely-wooded promontory of Bembridge, and the round fort 
of St Helens, which stands in the sea at a little distance fiom 
the land. The waves here beat with tremendous fury at 
the base of the stone wall, making the ground shake, while 
the spray occasionally reaches the traveller. It is in such 
places that we realize the power of the billows in washing 
away existing land. Miniature landslips clothed with vegeta- 
tion are formed, and the geologist will have good opportunities 
afforded for studying the strata. 

After passing Nodes bay the St. Helens Dover bay is 
entered. Here is all that remains of the St. Helens old 
church, a part of the tower, with the eastern end protected 
by a high brick wall, erected in a tasteless manner by the 
government, and coloured white, so as to afford a conspicuous 
mark for vessels in the St Helens Roads. Below is a sea-wall, 
or this little relic would quickly be washed away. This vras 
perhaps the oldest church in the Isle of Wight, having been 
planted by Hildila, Bishop Wilfrid*s chaplain, one of the 
evangelists of the island, in order, we are told, to be as near 
as possible to his native land, and within easy reach of Wilfrid, 
then Bishop of Selsea, whose counsel must have often been 
required in the prosecution of his arduous work. The pulpit 
was filled for a long period by the monks of the neighbouring 
priory, and when canon law compelled the vicar to be resident^ 
the parish was so poor that the bishops permitted mass to be 
.celebrated and the sacraments to be administered by the 
superior of the priory. The site proved to be iU chosen. In 
Queen Elizabeth's reign the encroachments of the sea had 
undermined the foundations of the church, which had fallen 
^ito such complete ruin that ** one might look in at on9 end 



8T. .HELXKB OUUKCH. ISt 

and oat at the other," while there had been ** never a curate 
and little service " for many years past, so that *' the pa- 
rishioners had been fain to bury their corpses themselves ; " 
^but yet," adds an indignant commissioner, ''they pay, 
nevertheless, their tithes." The position of St. Helens being 
in proximity to one of the chief naval roads of the south 
of England, where seamen of the Catholic nations were in the 
habit of touching for water and fresh provisions, rendered it» 
rained state a matter of national concern. ''Foreign sailors,** 
writes Mr. John Oglander, who made the presentment, 
<' seeing the shameful using of the same, think ih&t all other 
churches within the realm be like used, and what they have 
said and made report of in their own country God knoweth. 
It is a gazing stock to all foreign nations." A century later, 
1656, &omwell's commissioners reported " tliat the church is 
washed by the sea to its foundations ; fearing the fall thereof 
there have been endeavours to secure it, with great charge ;" 
but they recommended that " it be taken down ere it fall, and 
set up in the midst of the parish." Afterwards a church 
was built some distance inland, between St Helens Green 
and Nettlestone. 

A few hundred yards from the church is the Brading 
estuary, a mere mud swamp at ebb tide, but a beautiful 
expanse at high water, almost like an inland lake, with houses 
at each side and at the head embowered amongst trees, and 
high downs in the distance. Fishing smacks, yachts, and 
pleasure boats give animation to the scene. At the extremity 
of the land is the Ferry Boat Inn, and here the traveller can 
cross the bay by the ferry to Bembridge, which is a delightful 
looking place, with pleasant villas and church embosomed 
in trees from the water's edge to the summit of rising ground 
backed by the Bembridge Down crowned with its fort and 
monument. The ferry is for foot passengers only, llie 
charge for crossing is 2d. for each person, if three or more 
cross ; if only one person, 6d. In very rough weather the 
ferry does not work. 

The flat sandy ground between the old church and the 
estuary, known as the St. Helens Dover or Spit, is one 
of the best botanizing grounds in the whole island. " It is 
upon the tract of dunes or sandhills lying immediately below 
St. Helens that the principal harvest will be made. This 
small piece of ground, probably not exceeding 40 or 60 acres, 
has been ascertained to yield no fewer than two hundred and 
fifty species of flowering plants, being nearly one-third of the 



14 BIDE SBOnOK. 

whole Flora of the Isle of Wight ; and among tfae8e» not the 
least interesting are twelve out of the thirteen indigenous tie- 
foils. Indeed, the abundance of LeguminosaB and Caryophyllese 
is the most striking feature of the sandhills, and brings to 
mind the use which has been made of the prevalence of these 
two £unilies of plants to characterize a region warmer than our 
own. The two Stonecrops also might suggest a resemblance 
to the arid sands of the deserts, were it not for the reindeer 
moss, which is the next plant to meet the eye." From the 
old church the tourist proceeds along the margin of the haven 
to St. Helens Green, a pretty spot, with rustic cottages, pic- 
turesquely built round an ample village green. 



Byde to Sea View and St. Helens, by the Road* 

Nettlestone, 3 miles ; Sea View, 3} miles ; St. Helens Church, 
3} miles ; St. Helens Village, 4 miles. 

Tb's is an agreeable drive through an undulating, well- 
timbered district. Entering the road which branches to the 
riii;ht at the east end of the esplanade, an ascent is made to 
the St. John's toll-gate and St. John's church, with neat 
villas on the one hand, and on the other the charming grounds 
of St. John's house (Mr. Gassiott). The church is pleasantly 
located under tall trees. It is in the parish of St. Helens; a 
small stream which flows near the railway station, and enters 
the sea under the esplanade, being the eastern boundary of 
the parish of Kyde. St. John's house commemorates the 
reduction of St. John's in New Brunswick. It was originally 
built by Lord Amherst, and afterwards belonged to Sir 
Richard Simeon, many years M.P. for the Isle of Wight 
The grounds, which were laid out by the celebrated Eepton, 
are very beautiful, and contain some venerable trees. A few 
yards beyond the toll-gate a road branches to the right and 
leads direct to Brading. Presently the fine palatial mansion of 
Appley Towers is passed, and a few yards beyond Little 
Appley the point is reached, 1 mile from Kyde, where a road 
branches to left for Spring Yale. The branch road passes the 
grounds of St. Clare, a mansion at one time spoken of as 
a probable marine residence for the Prince of Wales. It was 
built by Lord Vernon, and is a castellated edifice of the Tudor 
style of Gothic, the keep-tower commanding a view of no 
common beauty. Colonel F. Y. Harcourt used to reside here, 
and then Her Majesty and the Prince Consort repeatedly 



8T. HEUENS FBIOBT. 15 

honoured St. Clare with their presence. The Prinoess Alice 
and the Prince Louis of Hesse spent their honeymoon here 
after their marrii^e at Osborne, July 1, 1862. 

Proceeding along the direct road a descent is made, with the 
Cherrygin cottages and the mansion of Woodlands Yale 
(Colonel the Hon. Somerset Calthorpe) on the left, and at 
some distance on the right the mansion of Westridge (James 
Toung, Esq.). The cottages are said to derive their name 
from having formerly been noted for the sale of illicit gin, > 
and evading the law by putting cherries in the gin, and 
calling it ''Cherry gin." After again slightly ascending, 
another road on the left branches to Spring Yale and the 
Salterns, and one on the right to the Brading road. Keeping 
straisfat forward a descent is made through a most delightful 
bit of ground with large trees on either hand over-arching the 
road. The country people call this the Dark lane. Dark 
though it may be at night, it is very lovely on a bright sunny 
day. Emerging from this sylvan shade, and passing West- 
brook (Pakenhsmi Mahon, Esq.) on the left, a beautiful view 
is had of imdulating wooded ground, and a glimpse is caught 
of the sea and the Neman fort. After inaking an ascent 
past the groimds of Pownell ((General Whimper), a mansion 
out of sight on the left, the farm and hamlet of Nettlestone 
are reached, where there are two or three lodging houses, and 
the Boadside Inn. This spot commands a good inland 
prospect^ with Ashey Down and its landmark in the distance. 
Here a road on the ft leads to Sea Yiew, passing under the 
shade of tall trees, and between the grounds of Fairy Hill 
(W. A. Glynn, Esq.) and Sea Grove. 

On leaving Nettlestone for St Helens the traveller soon 
reaches the gates leading to the grounds of the Priory, the 
residence of the Marquis of Cholmondeley. All remains of 
the monastic buildings that formerly existed here have dis- 
appeared, and in the grounds, which are extensive, and slope 
gradually to the sea, there stands a plain modem mansion, 
built in the early part of this century by Sir Nash Grose, 
formerly a Judge of the Court of King's Bench. The 
Ifarquis, who is a member of the denomination of dissenters 
known as Plymouth Brethren, has erected an iron place of 
worship near his mansion, and when at home he generally 
preaches every Sunday morning and evening, the public 
being admitted. The grounds can also be entered from the 
seashore, about half a mile east of Sea Yiew. Not much is 
known of the history of the Priory which formerly stood here. 



16 BTDX SBonoir. 

A little beyond the Priory is St. Helens churchy a- smali 
plain building, which stands in a quiet and retired situation. 
The chancel contains several memorials of the Grose family. 
Visitors staying in Ryde might enjoy a walk to the service 
here on a fine summer's day. A few yards past the church 
the Brading and Ashey downs come in view, and imme- 
diately after, the Bembridge Down, with its fort and monu- 
ment A comer of the road may be cut oflF by following a 
footpath through the fields from the church. Descending to 
St. Helens the views gradually improve, and embrace Bem- 
bridge, the sea, the St. Helens round fort, and the Brading 
harl^ur. On reaching a cluster of houses, and the pretty 
modem mansion, ;St. Helens Castle (Mr. Redley),. there is 
a pleasing view of the haven, the sandy ground Imown 
as the Dover, and the Bembridge village. The mins of the 
old church (see jiage 12) may be visited by following 
the road to the left for half a mile. Turning to the right 
the village is quickly entered. It is a quaint place, with 
a green in the centre, and mstic cottages all round. It 
contains two small inns and three dissenting places, of 
worship. In the war time of George III.'s reign, outward 
bound vessels were in the habit of obtaining from St. Helens 
their supplies of poultry and fresh provisions. It is stated in 
an old work on the island that the water here procured was 
of so pure a nature, that it was carried to the East Indies 
and back again, and continued in as sweet a state as when 
taken from the spring. 

From St. Helens the traveller has the choice of routes. He 
may proceed to Brading, 2 miles distant, and there catch 
the train, or he may return to Hyde by the Brading road ; or 
by Nunwell, Ashey farm^ and Smallbrook. 

When through the village the prospect includes Bembridge, 
Brading, and Ashey downs, with Shanklin Down in the 
background. Not far from the village are some oyster beds, 
where formerly a large business was done. A short distance 
farther a good view is detained to the left, comprising the 
downs, the harbour, Brading village, and Nunwell. A 
mile and a half from St. Helens the road leading between 
Ryde and Brading is entered close to the railway. Grossing 
the line by a bridge the way is pleasantly shaded by rows of 
elms, the branch road on the right leading to Nunwell ia 
passed, and the tourist arrives at the church and village of 
Brading. 



BIK8TEAD OHUBOH. 17 



Ryde to Binstead Church, duarr Abbey, Fishboume, 
and Wootton; and back by Haven Street and 
Aldermoor Mill. 

Binstead Church, 1\ miles ; Quarr Abbey, 2 J miles ; Fishbourne, 
3 miles ; Wootton, 4 miles ; Haven Street, 5} miles ; Aldermoor 
Mill, 7 miles ; Ryde, 8^ miles. 

This is perhaps the most pleasant excursion in the vicinity 
of Kyde. The same places may be visited by the high road, 
but it is better to make the expedition on foot, more especially 
to Binstead church, Quarr Abbey, and Fishboume. 

Proceeding westward from the pier, the stranger on entering 
Spencer Road will be delighted with its sylvan character; 
hedges, large trees, and noble mansions embowered in woods 
being on either hand. Westfield, built by Lord Spencer, the 
grandfather of the present Earl, and now the seat of Vice- . 
Admiral Sir Augustus Clifford, contains a choice collection of 
paintings, marbles, and other articles of vertu. The gardens 
are in the Italian fashion, with terraces leading down to the 
seashore, from which a marvellous panorama of Spitbead and 
the whole reach of the Solent is unfolded. The gateway is 
surmounted with the motto, " Qui si sana " (Here is health), 
and a beautiful figure of a stag &om the first Inter- 
national Exhibition, which obtained special commendation 
from the late Prince Consort. Near to Westfield, though 
out of sight in the park on the right, is Byde house, the 
residence of the Player family, the owners, by purchase, of the 
manor of Kyde. At the lodge gate, close to the Newport 
road, the tourist will enter a footpath leading between hedge- 
rows, and having crossed a path conducting to the shore, and 
over the Binstead brook (which divides the parishes), a slight 
climb will bring him to Binstead church. At low water the 
traveller may return to Byde by the shore, and gain Pier 
Street by a lane near the west side, of the Clubhouse ; or he 
may reach the shore by a path on the west side of Binstead 
church, and proceed close to the water all the way to Fish- 
boume. 

Binstead church, which is beautifally situated amidst trees, 
has recently been rebuilt. An old Norman door, which has 
been preserved, and now forms a gateway of the churchyard, 
contains a grotesquely sculptured stone called ''the idol," 
which has puzzled many antiquaries, and by some is supposed 
to have been an object of worship with the heathen -Saxons. 



18 BTDB SEOTIOir. 

It is said by one to " represent a human demi-fignre sapported 
on a ram's head." Another writes : *' The upper part is ptflinljr 
intended for a man, who appears seated with lus feet lesting 
upon a dog's or wolfs head. This relic may possibly be of 
Saxon origin, as may the keystone beneath, which represents 
a figure not uncommon with the barbarous sculptors of those 
and the Danish times, namely, a species of dragon in the act 
of biting his tail." The sculptured keystone which the above 
writer appears to have seen is now not to be found. Some 
singular emblems in stone, of Eternity, Sin, the Holy Dove, 
&c., from the old church are preserved in the walls of Uienew. 
The font, octagonal in shape, is noticeable, as it contains re- 
presentations of Eve's Temptation, the Expulsion from Eden, 
the Doom of Labour, Death, Christ's Baptism, GrudfixioD, 
Ascension, and the Last Judgment. The reading desk is 
supported by a figure of Moses with arms upheld by Aaroo 
and Hur (Exodus xvii. 8-13). The conmiunion table ood- 
tains some curious and beautiful carving in wood. 

The church was served before the Reformation by one of 
the monks of Quarr, and after the dissolution, the Abbot's 
privileges of marryii^ without license, proving wills, ^ 
were continued to the rector, who was styled l^hop of 
Binstead ; but this usurped authority wa^ taken away by tk 
Bishop of Winchester about the year 1600. 

The rectory stands to the south between the church and 
the high road, in grounds remarkable for their beauty and the 
views of the Solent they present. Other villas oraament 
the neighbourhood, some having beautiful gardens sl^isS 
down to the sea. 

This part of the island consists entirely of fresh- water stnta, 
principally limestones, full of fossil shells, which, in the 
vicinity of Byde, have been quarried for centuries. Some 
modem quarries may be seen in the neighbourhood of Binstesd, 
and will be examined with interest by the geologist Tky 
may be reached by following the road in the direction of ^ 
village for a few hundred yards from the church. They «»> 
however, now seldom worked, building stone being obtained 
chiefly from a quarry in the upper greensand strata close to 
Yentnor railway station. Speaking of stone similar to tlitt 
found at Yentnor, Mantell says : '* It Ib a bed of sandstone 
from 2 to 4 feet thick, which, though soft when first ei- 
tracted, hardens by exposure to the air, and becomes i^ 
excellent building material. The ancient churches on ^ 
south side of the island have been constructed of thia i^ 



QUABB ABBEY. 19 

and it is being largely quarriod for the edifices now in progress 
of erection." The uneven surface of the ground near Binstead 
church marks the site of the ancient quarries, from which 
much of the stone used for building Winchester Cathedral 
was procured. The Norman bishop, Walkelin (to whom 
William Rufus granted half a hide of land to search for stone, 
with the characteristic proviso that the wood must not be 
high enough to conceal the antlers of a stag), and William of 
Wykeham, both used this limestone, which was employed 
hi the erection of Chichester Cathedral. The variety 
composed of comminuted shells held together by a sparry 
calcareous cement, was extensively used ; it has frequently 
be6n mistaken for Caen stone by our antiquaries. In 
fissures and chasms of the Binstead quarries bones of ex- 
tinct species of horse and ox have been discovered, as well as 
those of turtles and the skull of a reindeer. The fossils which 
occur in the strata here consist of shells of the common 
genera of mollusca that inhabit lakes and rivers ; of seed 
vessels and stems of aquatic plants ; bones of fresh- water 
turtles ; and teeth and bones of land mammalia. 

From Binstead church a short stroll leads to the ruins of 
Quarr Abbey, by a lane, and then a carriage road to the right, 
by some charming villas, and through low oak copses which 
fnnge the shore. Until very lately the Abbey grounds were 
overshadowed by magnificent elms, almost coeval with the 
edifice itself; but even now, after the loss of these trees, it 
is a very pleasant quiet place, with extensive straggling re- 
mains of buildings and boundary walls, which are plain in 
structure and do not exhibit much architectural beauty. 
The principal church-like structure is now used as a farmhouse, 
and other parts have been turned into stables and barns. 
Most of the ruins may be seen by the visitor from the public 
path, but if he desires to wander about the grounds and scale 
the fences, he must obtain leave at the house. 

The Abbey, said to derive it name from the neighbouring 
stone quarries, was founded during the reign of Henry I., in 
1132, by Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of Devon, and Lord of 
the island, who liberally endowed it with lands, which were 
subsequently so increased by the gifts of opulent persons that 
the Abbey came to have a great power and influence. The 
Abbots of Quarr were often joined in commission with the 
Captain or Warden of the island, to regulate its military 
defences, and furnished four men-at-arms towards its militia. 
In 1340 one of the abbots held the office of Warden of the 

G 2 



20 BTDB BEOTION. 

island^ and had charge of its defences. He obtained a license 
from Edward III. to fortify the Abbey and to surround it 
with the strong wall (enclosing an area of 40 acres) which 
may still be traced through the greater part of its circuit. 
The sea-gate was provided with a portcullis, and the walls 
were pierced with loop-holes. To the west of the Abbey a 
large circular mound was the post of one of the watches of the 
islaiid^ with a beacon, to be fired in case of apprehended 
danger. The monks were originally from Sevigny in Nor- 
mandy, and of the Benedictine order, but afterwards became 
Cistercians ; and Quarr is said by some writers to be th^ first 
house of the latter order established in England; bat the 
distinction really belongs to Waverley, in Surrey. 

The Cistercian order was a reformed branch of the Bene- 
dictines, founded by Bobert, Abbot of Molesme, at Cistertium 
or Cisteaux, whence the name, in the year 1098, and after- 
wards so augmented by the efforts of St. Bernard of Clairvaux, 
as within a century after its formation to number three thou- 
sand affiliated monasteries. In England the principal seats 
of the order were Waverley, Fumess, Fountains, Kirkstall, 
Bolton, Tintem, Holy Cross, Eoche, Sweetheart, Netley, and 
Buildwas, This order was considered especially under the 
protection of the Virgin Mary ; its members were often called 
White monks, from their habits, which consisted of a white 
cassock with narrow scapulary, and over that a black gown 
when abroad, white when in church. They were especially 
devoted to agricultural pursuits, and to the duty and virtue 
of obedience. By the rules of their order they were bound 
to the strictest abstinence, eating no flesh, milk, cheese, or 
eggs ; but it appears by the court rolls of the manor of Ashey 
that the monks of Quarr were notorious poachers, and were 
continually prosecuted for robbing the covers of their phea- 
sants. The general characteristics of their churches were 
extreme simplicity of outline, absence of triforium, a single 
central tower, a simple west front, and plain undivided 
windows. 

Quarr Abbey became the last resting place of many persons 
of distinction. The founder, his wife Adeliza, and their son 
Richard, were buried here with many of their descendants. 
Here also the body of Lady Cicely, second daughter of Edward 
lY., was brought from East Standen, near Newport, where she 
lived with her second husband, John Kyme, an English 
commoner, who, being beneath her station, Fuller says she 
had married ** rather for comfort than credit." One William 



OITABB AB8BY. 21 

de Temon was also buried here, and a splendid monument is 
said to have been erected to his memory, for the cost of which 
he bequeathed 300^., nearly 4500?. at the present value of 
money. Of these stately tombs no vestiges remain, remind- 
ing us by their absence that at best, 

^ Frail are oar deeds, and frailer still oua*selyes-^ 
That, like the rainbow of a weeping sky, 
We rise, we shine, we change, and pass away." 

Leaden and stone coffins have at various times been found, 
and in 1857, three stone chests, supposed to contain the bones 
of the founder, his wife, and son, were discovered by some 
labourers, and are now in the museum at Eyde. 

One writer tells us that near the Abbey there is a deep sub- 
terraneous passage, closed by a golden gate ; and another says : 
'* At a short distance south of the ruins of the Abbey is a 
wood, formerly thickly timbered, but now only consisting of 
a few decayed oaks and brushwood ; it is called Eleanor's 
Grove, from a tradition that Eleanor of Guienne, queen of 
Henry U., was imprisoned at Quarr, and frequented this se- 
cluded spot, where, after death, it is related, she was interred 
in a golden coffin, which is supposed still to be protected 
from sacrilegious cupidity by magical spells." It is barely 
fifty years since search was nciade for this *' golden coffin," 
but tne searchers only found the golden tresses of some long- 
departed fair one, whose nameless coffin was violated, and her 
remains dispersed. 

At the suppression of religious houses by Henry VHI., the 
Abbey was purchased by Mr. John Mills, a rich Southampton 
merchant, who demolished it, and used the stone for building 
purposes. In the reign of James I., the estate came into the 
hands of Chief Justice Sir Thomas Fleming, a native of 
Newport in the Isle of Wight, to whose representatives it 
belongs. 

On leaving the Abbey for the hamlet of Fishbourne, enter 
the park of Quarr Abbey house, by passing through the lodge 
gates and under an arch. A public footpath conducte through 
the pai'k by the side of a private carriage road, a little dis- 
tance to the south of Quarr Abbey house, the residence of 
Lady Cochrane, widow of the late Admiral Sir Thomas 
Cochrane, who bought the house, and whose son is now member 
for the Isle of Wight. From the high ground a good view is 
obtained of the Solent, and the neighbouring undulating 



22 BTDB 8EOnON. 

woodlands, with the towers of Osborne honse visible in the 
distance. 

Presently Fishboume, or Fishhouse, is reached, a liamlet 
containing a coastguard station, and a small ship-building 
yard where a considerable number of yachts and other small 
vessels are built. Formerly a larger ship-building yard ex- 
isted a short distance farther down the creek, and ships of war 
were occasionally made there. At high tide the Fishboume 
or Wootton creek, which winds some distance inland, is very 
beautiful, its sloping banks being clothed with wood to the 
water's edge, but at other times it is a mere unsightly bed of 
mud. Wootton Bridge is reached by following either the 
road or footpath running parallel with the creek. The tower 
of Fernhill, seen peering from amongst the trees, points out to 
the stranger the position of the vills^e. 

From Wootton Bridge the traveller, if weary, may return 
by coach to Hyde, or, after refreshment at the Sloop Inn, he 
may proceed to Haven Street, by the road which toinches to 
the right close to Kite Hill house. A few yards beyond Kite 
Hill a commanding view is had of Fern Hill, Wootton creek, 
and a well- timbered country, with Ashey Down* and its sea- 
mark in the distance. A few hundred yards farther a road 
branching to left leads to Ninham. Some persons will 
follow this road in ordef to shorten the journey, and see the 
curious stone image in the wall of the old farmhouse at 
Ninham, respecting which the following story is told : " The 
Monks^ Meads near Hyde are so called because an Abbot of 
Quarr bestowed on the owner or holder of the farm at Nin- 
ham, where he had been a constant and welcome visitor, the 
right of taking the first crop of hay in alternate years from 
these very meadows, so long as a certain stone image was 
there preserved. The tenure is still maintained." 

The direct road leads through the Firestone copses to high 
ground at Coppid Hall farm, close to Haven Street, where 
three roads meet. The right-hand road conducts to the 
village, being the old way between Ryde and Newport If 
the tourist descend to the village he must return to this point 
and then take the road leading east. The Aldermoor wind- 
mill immediately comes in sight, picturesquely perched on 
high ground in front. Half a mile from Haven Street a road 
branches to right, leading over the downs to Newchurch, and 
on the left a lane, with tel^raph wires by the side of it, 
leads direct to Ryde. During the remainder of the journey 
^here is nothing of particular interest; some brickworks are 



WOOTTOH BBIDGX. 23 

passed, and then a steep ascent is made to the mill, where 
"the Byde road is entered by bending to the left The right- 
band road leads to Ashey Down and railway station, and the 
straight road to Smallbrook. A view is had of Bembridge 
X)own and the Solent in the direction of Portsmouth, The 
traveller proceeds through Swanmore, an outskirt of Byde, 
and then through the upper and old part of the town, by the 
High Street to Union Street and the esplanade. 



Byde to Newport, by Wootton Bridge. 

Wootton Bridge, 3} miles ; Newport, 7 miles. . 

Coaches run many times daily by this route, from Byde to 
Wootton Bridge, Newport, and Garisbrooke, starting at the 
esplanade, and at the Castle Inn, John's Street^ Upper Byde. 
The scenery is pleasing, but neither wild nor romantic. Its 
charms arise from an undulating and well-wooded surface, 
many points presenting fine views of the strait which sepa- 
rates the island from the coast of Hampshire. 

From the pier the traveller goes through Union Street, 

High Street, and John's Street, turns to the right at All 

Saints' parish church, then along Queen's Boad, and Binstead 

Boad, passing pleasant villas, and by a well-timbered district 

near Byde house and Brookfield. A few yards beyond the 

Binstead toll-gate, a lane on the right leads to Binstead 

church. At Binstead village, one mile from Byde, is the 

Fleming Arms Inn. From the village the rc^ ascends 

steeply the Binstead Hill, presenting at every step a more 

extended view in the rear of an undulating and beautifully 

wooded district, with Binstead village at the traveller's feet, 

and pleasant villas sheltered by trees stretching to the 

houses of Upper Byde. When at the foot of the hill, known 

on this side as Quarr Hill, Quarr Abbey is observed across 

a field on the right, and a road branches to it (see page 19). 

Another ascent is made to the top of Copse Hill, and as there 

is here less wood to obstruct the view, a fine glimpse is 

caught of the sea and the opposite coast near Portsmouth. 

After a steep descent the top of Kite Hill is gained, when 

the sea again appears, and the Wootton estuary is seen. 

Passing Kite Hill house a descent is made and the river 

crowed at the village of Wootton Bridge. Here is a small inn, 

the Sloop, and a cornmill worked by the waters of the 

inlet. It is a tidal stream for some distance above the bridge, 



24 BTDB SBOnON. 

and at full tide it presents a pleasing aspect, looking like an 
inland lake, woods clothing its banks, and the heights of 
Kite H!ill and Fern Hill rising on the opposite sides, whilst 
in the distance is Ashey Down, crowned with its landmark 
The mansion of Fern Hill, the residence of J. Gait, Esq., was 
built by Lord Bolton, when governor of the island, about the 
end of the last century ; a lofty and handsome tower rises 
from one end, with a large Gothic window near its base. 

Leaving the villao;e and ascending the hill, the park-like 
grounds of Wootton Lodge, the residence of P. White 
Popham, Esq., are passed, the old myrtle-covered house 
being almost hid by luxuriant shrubs. A cluster of trees, 
amongst which nestles Wootton church, is observed across 
the fields on the right, the view opens in front to the 
valley of the Medina, and the towers of Osborne house are 
visible. After a long gradual descent four roads meet. The 
direct road conducts to Newport, but a few yards farther it 
winds to the left near the Whippingham railway station, and 
passes the red brick buildings of the late Prince Gonsortfs 
farm, which is now rented by a farmer, and is known as 
Alverstone. The Prince took an especial interest in farming 
operations, and had here a farm of 800 acres of arable and 
pasture land, which was " to be regarded not so much as a 
model as a scene foi; experiments, which others may see, and 
if they like imitate.*' The soil is thin and naturally poor, 
but has been brought into a state of the highest fertility by 
the excellent measures adopted by the Prince, under the most 
able, practical, and scientific guidance. A most competent 
authority (Rev. J. Wilkinson, * Journal of Royal Agricultural 
Society,' vol. xxii.) states that " it is the farm which any 
unprejudiced person would select as the characteristic farm of 
the district, as exhibiting features to which all good hus- 
bandry will sooner or later conform." 

The farm buildings form a square, with a field in the 
centre, and the house a few yards distant on the east side. 
On the west side the buildings consist of the following : room 
where day labourers can have their meals, cart shed, tool 
house, loose rack for sick horse, stables for eight horses, room 
for hay, stables for eight horses, place for colts, and cart shed. 
On the south side are, room where meal is kept for cattle, 
cowhouse for twenty head of cattle, room for pig wash with 
set pot. East side, pigsties. North side, fowlhouse, bams 
for straw, com, &c., and close to these the stackyard. 

After passing the farm, Carisbrooke Castle appears in front, 



HAYEN 8TBEET AND STAPLBB's HEATH. 26 

presenting its usual picturesque appearance ; there are also 
seen the Parkhurst barracks and prison, the Medina river, 
the Medina cement works, and the spire of Northwood and 
Whippingham churches ; but there is nothing more of par- 
ticular interest until Newport is entered, by the Cemetery, 
Coppin's bridge, and High Street. 



Byde to Newport, by Haven Street and Stapler's 

Heath. 

Haven Street, 3 miles ; Stapler's Heath, 5} miles ; Newport, 7 miles. 

This is the old road between Byde and Newport, but it is 
now very little used. It will^rove a pleasant change in the 
route for those who have previously travelled by Wootton 
Bridge. 

At Aldermoor mill (called also Butler's mill and Upton 
mill) a mile and a half from Byde, turn to right and make 
a steep descent, with a view of Ashey Down, and a wide 
tract of undulating woodland. When the tower of Fern 
Hill, and the woc^ around Wootton appear, the pleasant 
little village of Haven Street is entered. Here is a small 
inn, the White Hart, and a modem church, with pretty bell 
turret surmounted by a cross, peeping from amongst the 
trees. The name of the village is probably derived from 
the position at the head of a once considerable estuary. 
Passing under the Byde and Newport railway, the road runs 
through thick copses, with here and there glimpses on the 
left of the Ashey and Messly downs. The direction of the 
road cannot be mistaken, as the telegraph wires run by 
the side of it all the way from Haven Street to Newport. 
Arrived at Stapler's Heath a charming scene is spread to 
view, the winding estuary of the Medina with the shipping at 
Gowes having a good effect. There are also the grounds 
and towers of Osborne, the woods of King's Quay, the 
silvery streak of the Solent, and the opposite coast. Engle- 
field says of this spot, *' A very beautiful view is obtained of 
the Medina river from Newport, quite to its mouth at Cowes. 
At high water this river is of considerable breadth, and winds 
with ample sweeps between banks, which, though of no great 
elevation, are of good shape, and varied with arable and 
coppices ; the towns of East and West Gowes form a very 
interesting termination to its course, and there is generally 



26 BTDB SEOnON. 

a sufficient number of vessels at anchor in the river and road 
opposite to its mouth to give animation to the scene. The 
Solent sea, like a noble lake, bounded by the luxuriant woods 
of the New Forest, with the very distant blue hills of the 
northern part of Hampshire, form a most beautiful termina- 
tion to the view." 

A long gradual descent is made to Newport, with good 
views of the town, backed by the downs of Bowcombe and 
Ghillerton. Passing by Barton village, a suburb of Newport, 
and St. Paurs church, the town is entered by Goppin's 
bridge. 



Byde to Asliey Down and Nnnwell, by Aldermoor 
Tffill, and back by Smallbrook. 

Ashey Down, 3} miles ; Nunwell, 4} miles ; Rjde, 8 miles. 

This is a delightful excursion, and may be taken on foot^ 
on horseback, or by carriage. 

From Union Street proceed by High Street through the 
old upper town, and then along Swanmore, and straight past 
the Aldermoor mill. So soon as the mill is left behind a 
good prospect opens to the left, the Ashey, Brading, and 
Bembridge downs also appear in front, the former with its 
landmark, and the latter with its fort and monument. The 
road now assumes the character of a retired country lane, and 
presently there breaks forth an extensive wooded vale on the 
right, bounded by the Messly Down, with the Appuldurcomhe 
height and the Worsley obelisk peering in the distance. At 
G-atehouse, 2} miles from Byde, the traveller has the choice of 
routes. He may follow the road to left, which descends and 
joins the high road from Ryde to Ashey, crossing which he 
can pass, by the lane known as Green Lane, to Nunwell, or 
turning to the right go to Ashey farm, and thence wind to 
the summit of Ashey Down ; or he may proceed in a direct 
line past Gatehouse and descend to Ashey railway statioiL 
Of, course this point may be gained by railway from Byde. 
A road leads from the station to Ashey farm. Pedestrians 
may ascend Ashey Down direct from the station by a foot- 
path which runs by the side of the branch line past West Ashey 
tarm to the clmlk quarry at the base of the Down, and there 
enters the road which winds to the top of the hill and proceeds 
thence to Newchurch. At every step during the ascent the 
view gradually expands and the air becomes more bracing. 



TIEW TBOM ASHET DOWN. 27 

nntil, when the sammit is gained, there is displayed a prospect 
considered one of the finest on the island. It is said that the 
distant spires of twelve churches can he seen from here. At 
the highest point of the road, not far from the seamark, three 
roads meet, and there is a guide-ix)st stating 2 miles to 
Brading, 4 miles to Ryde, and 4J miles to Newport. 

On tibe summit of the Down, 431 feet ahove the sea, there 
stands an old familiar friend to one who has travelled much 
on the island, for it is visihle from a wide area ; it is a stone 
truncated cone called the seamark, and was erected in 1735 hy 
the Trinity Board. The panorama spread to view is re- 
markahly extensive and heautiful. Its particular attraction 
lies in the hroad expanse of ocean, the English Channel and 
the river-like Solent, dotted with ships of all sizes moving 
in every direction. A long helt of the opposite coast is visihle, 
from the New Forest in Hampshire, past Southampton Water 
and the many-masted harhour of Portsmouth, far away along 
the coast of Sussex, and, more distant, a range of downs^ 
hounds the horizon. Nearer is a hroad tract of the north-east 
part of the island, ornamented with wood and cultivated 
fields. The towers of Oshome are ohserved on the high 
ground heyond the small patch of the waters of Wootton 
estuary. The Brading Haven is well displayed, and Byde 
appears almost within a stone's throw, spread from height to 
height across a hollow-like hay. Turning in the opposite 
direction there is another extensive tract of the island encircled 
hy three ranges of downs, the Brading, Ashey, and Messly 
range on which the spectator is standing ; the western heights 
of Chillerton and Brixton; and the hulky mass to the south, 
including St. Catherine's Down with its two disused light- 
houses, and Hoy's pillar, Appuldurcomhe Down, with Worsley 
ohelisk and the Shanklin Down. At the foot of the latter 
hill lies the town of Shanklin, and near the spectator is 
Sandown, close to the houndless ocean. Englefield speaks of 
this prospect as a scene which, in richness of tints, and variety 
of ohjects, surpasses anything he ever saw. 

Near the top of the hill are some mounds, evidently har- 
rows which have heen rifled. 

Descending to the waterworks, which are situated in the 
secluded hollow hetween Brading and Ashey downs, the Byde 
road is entered close to Ashey farm, where was formerly a nun- 
nery, the huildings of which are said to have heen extensive, 
hut no remains exist. It is recorded that in the reign of Queen 
Elizaheth, a widow named Agnes Porter, residing within the 



28 BTDB 8B0TI0N. 

jurisdiction of the Lord of the Manor of Ashey, was accused 
of practising witchcraft. The poor woman saffered the penalty 
by being burnt at the stake, and all her goods were forfeited. 

The Byde waterworks were erected in 1855. The water 
is pumped up by steam engines, each stroke throwing up 
18h gallons ; the reservoir is capable of containing 504,000 
gallons ; the length of the pipes is altogether 14 miles. The 
supply here not being found at all times equal to the demand, 
additional works have been erected on the south side of the 
hills, near Knighton. 

Nunwell* is a plain modem mansion, standing in a com- 
manding position on the north side of Brading I&wn, and in 
the midst of a beautifully undulating park of about two miles 
in circumference, and contains some venerable oaks of ex- 
traordinary size. It is the ancestral home of the Oglander 
family, who came over from Normandy with William the 
Conqueror, and had Nunwell granted to them by Henry L, 
which they held in uninterrupted descent until the year 1874, 
when the last representative of the family died without issue. 
It is now the re^dence of Lady Oglander, the widow of Sir 
Henry Oglander. There axe living only two unmarried ladies 
of the name of Oglander, and on their death the name will 
become extinct. On the death of Ijady Oglander the estate 
passes to John Oglander Glynn, Esq., cousin of the late Sir 
Henry, who will doubtless assume the name and arms of the 
Oglanders. 

The cradle of the family was the castle of Orglandes in the 

S.rish of Yalognes, in the Department of La Manche. The 
arquis d'Orglandes, the chief of the French branch, was 
member of the Chamber of Deputies in 1825. As well as the 
most ancient, the Oglanders have also been among the leading 
inhabitants of the Isle of Wight, in whose annals their names 
are continually appearing, but none is more identified with 
them than Sir John Oglimder, who left a MS. memoir giving 
a graphic description of the internal condition of the island in 
the early part of the seventeenth century. This has never 
been published in extenso, but was made much use of by Sir 
B. Worsley, in the compilation of his valuable history. Sir 
John was knighted by James I. (his son Sir William was 
created a baronet in 1665) and was not only Deputy Grovemor 

* The place is believed to have derived its name fi*om the nuns of 
Ashej monastery having resorted to a spring or well belonging to 
the estate. 



TEE OOLANBEB FAMILY. 29 

t)f the Isle of Wight (1624) but also of Portsmouth (1620). 
In 1637 he served as sheriff of Hampshire. He was a staunch 
royalist, and had been twice honoured with a visit by Charles 
I., first as Prince in 1618, and afterwards as King to inspect 
the Scotch troops on their way to the Isle of Kh6, This 
transient intercourse led to momentous results. His per- 
sonal knowledge of Oglander, together with his reputation 
for loyalty, and an exaggerated confidence in his influence in 
the island, weighed much with Charles I. in choosing the Isle 
of Wight as a refuge after his escape from Hampton Court, 
and he was the last subject whom the unhappy monarch, still 
enjoying the semblance of freedom, honoured with a visit. 
Sir John was in Brading church on Sunday, November 15 th, 
1647, when he heard the first news of the arrival of Charles I, 
in the island, " which news," he says, " truly troubled me 
much." The next morning at daybreak he started for New- 
port to offer his homage to the king. The following Thursday 
his Majesty visited him at Nunwell, and received from him 
a purse of gold, presented kneeling. Oglander's loyalty cost 
him dear. He was torn from his beloved island by the Com- 
mittee of Parliament, kept a prisoner in London for many 
years, and was eventually obliged to pay a large sum of 
money to obtain his discharge. 

Leaving Nunwell park and emerging into the Green Lane, 
the Smallbrook road is soon entered, the toll-gate passed, and 
Ryde gained by way of Swanmore church. 



Byde to Brading, Sandown, Shanklin, Bonchurcli, 

and Ventnor. 

Brading, 4 miles ; Sandowo, 6 miles ; Shanklin, 8 miles ; 
Bonchurch, 11 miles; Ventnor, 12 miles. 

The road between Ryde and Ventnor used to be more fre- 
quented than any other on the island, but now almost every 
stranger takes advantage of the facilities afforded by the rail- 
way, and speeds over the ground as quickly as possible. 

Entering the Brading road near St. John's church (see 
page 14), a few houses are passed, and then the Brading and 
Ashey and Messly downs are seen, along with Aldermoor 
mill, Swanmore church, and part of Ryde. The thick 
copses of Whitefield partly hide the view for a short distance. 
These woods are said to be on the site of a manor given by 
Edward I., together with Freshwater and other lands, to his 



80 BTBB SECTION. 

daughter Mary, a nun of Ambresbury, whose unsaintly extn- 
vagance and love of pomp, good cheer, and gamblings had 
involved her in considerable pecuniary embarrassments. 

On emerging into open ground, Bembridge Down, with its 
fort and monument, appears, and when over the railway 
bridge Brading Haven is seen, with the village of Bem- 
bridge close to the sea. The grounds and woods of Nunwell 
are on the right, and the traveller is conducted under a shaded 
avenue of elms to the church and town of Brading, 

This is a small, sleepy place, picturesquely situate near the 
head of a broad, beautiful estuary, and on the lower slope of 
a high down. Though poor in size, it contains evidences of 
its former importance, and is enriched by historical and 
modem associations which will make it in the eyes of many 
the most hallowed spot on the island. With the doubtful 
exceptions of Garisbrooke and Newport, it may justly claim 
to bid considered the oldest town. It was here that St. 
Wilfrid landed, and first converted and baptized the men of 
Wight. He erected a church, in 704, on the site of a 
heathen temple, which probably in later years often nnder- 
went renovation, and now, although there may be relics of the 
original building in its walls, the church, as we see it, is not 
older than Henry II. 's time. St. Wilfrid being called away 
by the Northumbrian king to resume charge of the bishopric 
of York, from which he had previously been driven, he left his 
nephew Beomwin and his chaplain Hildila to carry on the work ; 
the former planted himself at Brading, and the latter built 
the' church at St. Helens Spit and there took up his abode. 

St. Wilfrid was an extraordinary personage, and one of the 
principal churchmen of those times. He was a Northumbrian 
by birth, of honourable parentage, educated as a monk in the 
convent of lindisfam, and had, by travelling to France and 
Bome, acquired the learning of that age, and a particular 
acquaintance with the rites and canons of the Boman Church. 
He also acquired a high relish for the riches, pomp, and 
splendour he had seen in the foreign churches. This educa- 
tion, concurring with a haughty, ambitious, and intractable 
spirit, rendered him a notorious troubler of the peace of the 
English Church, and a principal instrument of subjecting it 
to the usurpations of the Boman pontiffs. He was one of the 
chief disputants at the conference held by the Northumbrian 
king at Whitby in 664, respecting the observance of E^ter. 
Being consecrated bishop of Northumberland, which then 
included all the district between the Humber and the Firth 
of Forth, he fixed the seat of his diocese at York, made great 



BBADINO. 81 

additions to the cathedral there, the roof of which he 
covered with lead, and glased the windows; he also built 
the cathedral at Ripon, imd employed the most skilful artists 
he coold procure from France and Italy. He had the govern* 
ment of nine abbeys ; in his family the sons of many of the 
Northumbrian nobles resided for their education ; his atten« 
dants were numerous ; his fortune splendid ; and at his table 
he is said to have been served on gold. His principal patroness 
was the queen of Uie Northumbrian king. From her he 
received Hexham and the adjacent lands, said to have been 
lands of her own dowry, for the support of the convent and 
of the maguificent church built by nim in that town. When 
the Queen took the veil and retired into the Abbey of Golding- 
ham, Wilfrid lost favour at court. His enemies persuade 
the King to divide his immense diocese into two provinces, 
the see of one bishopric beine fixed at York and the other at 
Hexham. Wilfrid went to Kome to obtain redress, and got 
a favourable decision. On his return the King committed 
him to prison, alleging that he had used bribes at Bome. 
After remaining prisoner about a year, the Bishop was set free 
upon condition that he should abandon the Northumbrian 
dominions. He retired to the south of England, was made 
Bishop of Selsey, visited the Isle of Wight, and employed his 
time in preacMng until the death of the King, when he 
returned to his native country. Upon his return he was 
reinstated in the see of Hexham, and is said to have been after- 
wards restored to that of York, and to have obtained possession 
of his monastery of Bipon. Once more he offended the courts 
was expelled from his diocese, and obliged to seek refuge in 
the neighbouring kingdom of Mercia, where he was appointed 
to the see of Leicester. He again appealed to Bome, and 
made a journey to that city at the age of seventy. An agree- 
ment was concluded, and he was restored to the monasteries 
of Hexham and Bipon, and soon afterwards the famous St. 
John of Beverley, who was Bishop of Hexham, being trans- 
lated to York, Wilfrid regained his diocese of Hexham, and 
four years afterwards died in peace at his monastery of Oundle 
and was buried in the church of St. Peter at Bipon. St. 
Wilfrid was contemporary with St. Guthbert, and with Bede 
the historian. 

. Brading being conveniently situated for provisioning the 
small ships of those times, gradually increased in importance, 
and is said to have sent members to some of our early parlia- 
ments, a privilege of which the inhabitants, we are told, finding 
the cluuge of fourpence a day, then paid to members, too 



32 BYDE SECTION. 

heavy a burden, were relieved upon their own petition. It 
is, however, very improbable that it was ever a parliamentaiy 
borough, for no writs or returns have been found to con- 
firm the supposition. The inhabitants have always held very 
advanced political opinions, and the appellation of Badical is 
applied to them. They claim the honour of having sent the 
first petition to Parliament for a reform in the representation. 
Brading is an old corporate town, and has received many 
charters, the oldest that has escaped destruction being that of 
Edward VI., dated 1548, which styles the place "the 
Kyng's Towne of Brading." It is still governed by a senior 
and junior bailiff, a recorder, and thirteen jurats. Near the 
church is the town hall, recently rebuilt, and inside it are 
the whipping post, and the ancient stocks in which drunkards 
and evil-doers were formerly placed. Under the eaves of some 
of the houses may be observed iron rings as if for hanging 
tapestry, after the Italian fashion, on festivals. In an open 
place to the right, half-way up the town, is the bull-ring, a 
massive ring of iron firmly fixed in the ground, where, when 
bull-baiting was a favourite national sport, the animal was 
tiastened and goaded by the dogs. Sir J. Oglander tells us 
that the mayor's feast at Newport was kept tiie first Sunday 
after May-day, when '' it was the custom from time imme- 
morial for the Governor of the Isle of Wight to give five 
guineas to buy a bull, to be baited and given to the poor. 
The mayor and corporation, before they went to the 
church to choose a new chief, attended at the bull-ring in 
their regalia, with their macebearers and constables; and 
after proclamation, a dog, called the mayor's dog, ornamented 
with ribbons, was in their presence set at the bull." Another 
relic of antiquity, the brass gun, was removed from the town 
to the neighbouring mansion of Nunwell, about eight years 
sgo, having been presented to the late Sir Henry Oglander. 
It is the only relic of the pieces of ordnance provided 
by the parishes of the island in the days of Edward VI., 
for defence from invaders, and bears the inscription, 
"John and Robert Owine, brethren, made this Pese, 1549, 
Bradynd." The last time its brazen mouth spoke was at the 
passing of the Beform Bill, when the townspeople dragged 
it to the top of the Down to aid their rejoicings, but the old 
gun proved a staunch Tory, and signified its disapproval of 
the whole proceeding by bursting. 

The church, the interior of which is worth inspection, is a 
spacious building, consisting of a tower, body, and chancel, 



BSADINa. 33 

separated by an arch, north and south aisles^ ^ith Early 
^English arches, and two small chapels at the eastern end. 
"Within the altar rails is a curious and elaborately engraved 
slab, -with effigy of knight in armour, his feet supported by 
two dogs, with delicate ornamental work comprising figures 
of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour, and the Twelve 
Apostles. Upon it is the following inscription : " Here lies 
the renowned John Cherowin, Kjiight, while he Hved Con- 
stable of the castle of Porchester, who died a.d. 1441, on 
the last day of the month of October. May his soul rest in 
peace, amen." At the east end of the south aisle is the 
Oglander chapel, containing some interesting tombs and 
effigies, the principal being wooden effigies of Sir William 
Oglander, who died 1608, and Sir John Oglander, who died 
in 1655. Under the tower is a large slab with a cross upon 
it, but all traces of an inscription have been obliterated by 
the constant tread of the worshippers. A few years ago Sir 
Henry Oglander renovated the church and his chapel, at 
a cost of several thousand pounds. The clock is not very 
old, having been presented in 1869 by Sir Walter Stirling, 
Bart. 

With all Brading's claims to hoar antiquity, its principal 
distinction in the eyes of most people will be derived from its 
connection with the Bev. Leigh Bichmond, who was curate 
of Brading and Yaverland from 1797 to 1805. Admirers of 
this good man's life and writings might spend a delightful 
day in visiting Brading and neighbourhood, with a copy of 
the * Annals of the Poor ' in hand. In a lane, half-way up 
the town, at the foot of the hill, stands a rustic dwelling, the 
home of Jane, the young cottager, and her grave will be 
found close to a footpath at the south-east angle of the 
churchyard, with the following inscription on the tombstone, 
believed to have been composed by Leigh Bichmond himself. 
It is said, also, to have been written by the wife of a clergy- 
man of Cowes.* 

** Ye who the power of God delight to trace, 
And mark with joy each monument of grace, 
Tread lightly o'er this grave as ye explore 
The short and simple Annah of the Poor, 



* The deputy steward of Brading has in his possession a lock of 
the hair of the ** Dairyman's Daughter." It was discovered wrapped 
up among the papers of a lady who died lately, and with it was 
a written statement which proves it to be genuine. 

D 



n 



34 nnm bibotion. 

^* A child reposes underneath this sod, 
A child to memory dear, and dear to God. 
Rejoice, hut shed the sympathetic tear — 
Jane, the Young Cottager^ lies buried here.' 

On another stone, in memory of Mr. Beny, will he 
observed the following epitaph, which we are told had a 
wonderful effect on Jane : 

" It must he so ; our father Adam's fall 
And disobedience, brought this lot to all ; 
All die in him. But hopeless should we be, 
Blest Revelation! were it not for thee. 
Hail I glorious Gh>spel, heavenlv light, whereby 
We live with comfort, and with comfort die ; 
And view beyond this gloomy scene the tomb, 
A life of endless happiness to come." 

Near the above, on the tomb of Mrs. Anne Berry, is the 
well-known inscription, which was set to music in 1794, by 
Dr. Galcott, the celebrated composer, when residing at St 
John's, near Hyde : 

" Forgive, blest shade, the tributary tear, 

That mourns thy exit from a world like this ; 

Forgive the wish that would have kept thee here, 

And stay'd thy progress to the seats of bliss. 

*' No mof e confined to grov'ling scenes of night. 
No more a tenant pent in mortal clay ; 
We rather now should hail thy glorious flight. 
And trace thy journey to the realms of day.' 

These lines are generally ascribed to the Rev. W. Gill, a 
former curate of Newchurch, but one writer says : " They are 
adapted with slight alteration from Mrs. Steele's ' Lines on the 
Death of the Bev, James Harvey,' — see her 'Poems by 
Eudoxia,' 1760, vol. ii. p. 50." 

Leigh Kichmond tells us : ** My churchyard became a 
book of instruction, and every grave stone a leaf of edifica- 
tion for my young disciples. The church itself stood in the 
midst of the ground. It was a spacious antique structure. 
Within those very walls I first proclaimed the message 
of God to sinners .... Many of the beauties of created 
nature appeared in view. Eastward extended a large 
river or lake of sea-water, chiefly formed by the tide, and 
nearly enclosed by land. Beyond this was a fine bay and 
road for ships, filled with vessels of every size, from the small 



>» 



BSADINO HAYEN. S5 

sloop or cutter, to the first-rate man-of-war. On the right 

band of the haven rose a hill of peculiarly heanitifal form and 

considerable height. Its verdure was very rich, and many 

bundred sheep grazed upon its sides and summit. From the 

opposite shore of the same water a large sloping extent of 

land ,was diversified with fields, woods, hedges, and cottages. 

At its extremity stood, close to the edge of the sea cliff itself, 

the remains of the tower of an ancient church, still preserved 

as a seamark. Far beyond the bay, a very distant shore 

was observable, and land beyond it ; ^ees, towns, and other 

buildings appeared, more especially when gilded by the 

reflected rays of the sun." 

The large " river or lake of sea-water " here mentioned, is 
Brading Haven, a broad tidal basin occupying an area of 
840 acres ; resembling at high water a noble lake embayed 
in hills^ and at ebb tide presenting nothing but an expanse of 
mud, with a narrow channel through which the eastern Yar 
meanders to the sea. 

Those who have time at command may find it worth while, 
if the tide serves, to take a boat and row or sail on this lake- 
like sheet of water, which "to one who has not seen, or 
can forget a lake among the mountains .... will, if seen 
under favourable circumstances, appear of almost unsurpass- 
able beauty; to everyone it must appear very beautiful. 
The view from the head of the harbour is, especially at 
sunset, eminently picturesque and striking." 

Tradition tells us that where ships now sail were once 
wide green pastures with milk-white flocks and lowing herds, 
and that its submersion is due to the wilful neglect of the 
fatal terms on which an immense treasure that had been 
concealed in a well and discovered by sorcery, was to be 
drawn from its hiding place. There appears to be a grain of 
truth in the story, for during on^ of the various attempts to 
reclaim this large tract of land a well, cased with stone, was 
discovered near the middle of the haven, sufficiently demon- 
strating that it had once been dry land, and that the sea had 
overflowed it within the historical period. 

A part was taken in by Sir William Bussell, in the time of 
Edward I., and again portions in 1562 and 1594. The chief 
attempt, however, was made by Sir Hugh Myddelton, the pro- 
jector of the New River, that great reservoir which supplies 
the north side of London with water (see Smiles' * Lives of 
the Engineers '), in connection with Sir Bevis Thirlwall, who 
gave one Henry Gibbs two thousand pounds for the grant he had 

D 2 



86 BTBB SBOnON. 

obtained from James L The embankment across the narrow 
mouth of the estuary was commenced in 1620, and occupied 
two years, with an expenditure of seven thousand pounds. 
For eight years longer the enclosure was kept free from the 
sea, but the soil proved a light running sand hardly worth 
cultivating ; and the scheme proved abortive from the want of 
decision and energy on the part of its promoters. ** In a wet 
season, when the inner part of the haven was full of fresh 
water, and there was a high spring tide^ the waters met under 
the hank, and made a breach," and the whole was again 
overflowed by the sea. In 1699 the project was renewed 
and once more failed, fortunately so, when we reflect how 
greatly the prospect would have lost in beauty, and the haven 
still remains in its unproductive state, though Vancouver 
(* Survey of Agriculture,' 1808) expresses his opinion that 
500 acres might be embanked with great advantage. A 
company have lately obtained an act of parliament to enclose 
the haven by the construction of an embankment from 
St. Helens mill to the opposite side, and it is not improbable 
it will be effected. This work is now in course of progi^, 
with every probability of ultimate success. The entrance to 
the haven, tradition says, was formerly near to the old church 
at St. Helens, and one or two facts may be considered con- 
clusive proof of this having been the case. The waste sandy 
ground, known as St. Helens Dover, separated by the mouth 
of the haven from the peninsula of Bembridge, is, witii 
Bembridge, part of the parish of Brading, and was part of the 
peninsula of Bembridge ; and there are some lands at Bern- 
bridge, the owner of which has, in respect of such ownership, 
a right of common of pasturage for cows on St. Helens Dover, 
but the new mouth of the haven has deprived him of access 
to the land. At the head of the haven, near to Bradii^ 
station, a landing place haif been erected, connected with the 
railway by a small branch line of rails, and here most of the 
coals used on the south coast of the island are unloaded. A 
railway is being constructed between Brading and Bern- 
bridge, which will most probably be completed during the 
summer of 1878. By this project one of the prettiest 
villages on the coast will be placed within easy access of 
visitors. A steam launch now runs, weather permitting, 
between Portsmouth harbour and Bembridge. 

From Brading the traveller may proceed to Yarbridge 
either by road, which bends to the left at the foot of the hill, or 
he may ascend and pass through the new part of the town. 



TABBBIDGB. 37 

known as the Mall, where are some pretty villas com- 
manding a beautiful and wide prospect. The air here is 
remarkably pure and bracing, and from the proximity to 
SandowD, and the facilities which the railway affords tor 
visiting the different parts of the island, strangers will find 
this place a very pleasant resort. From the Mall a road 
branching to the right leads along the tops of the downs to 
Newport, and another, a little lower down, conducts to 
Alverston, Knighton, and Newchurch. 

Yarbridge, half a mile from Brading, is a small hamlet 

close to Qie river Yar, consisting of a few houses, a 

brewery, and a little inn, the Angler's Arms. This was 

at one time a fiEtvourite spot with anglers, but now, 

owing partly to the alterations made in the course of the 

stream on the construction of the railway, we fear there is 

little to attract the lovers of the piscatorifld art. The water 

which flows in a rather uninteresting course through an 

alluvial flat, contains eels, dace, carp, and a few trout. 

Close to the inn there is a bridge over the river, the road 

thence conducting to Bembridge, and also by Yaverland 

to Sandown. A bridge was built here by Sir William Kussell 

in the time of Edward I. The spot reminds us of a bright 

page in the history of the island, for in 1545 the bridge was 

broken down by a gallant band as they retreated fighting 

before a superior force of the French invaders. ** The French 

were no sooner on shore than they were charged by a body of 

cavalry. There was sharp fighting ; and the solcfiers in the 

nearest ships, excited at the spectacle of the skirmish and the 

rattle of the carbines, became unmanageable, seized the boats, 

and went off, without their officers, to join. The English, 

being now outnumbered, withdrew; the French straggled 

after them in loose order till they came out upon the downs, 

sloping up towards the Culver Cliffs, and here, being scattered 

in twos and threes, they were again charged with fatal effects 

Many were cut in pieces, the rest fled, the English pursuing 

and sabreing them down to the shore ; and but few would 

have escaped but that the disaster was perceived from the 

fleet ; large masses of men were sent in, under shelter of the 

guns, to relieve the fugitives, and the English, being badlv 

pressed in return, drew of^ still fighting as they retreated, till 

they reached a stream, which they crossed, and broke down 

the bridge behind them."— Froude s * History,* vol. iv. p. 428. 

From Yarbridge the road runs across a flat tract, with the 

forts and Bembridge Down in sight on the left, and after 



88 BTPB SBOixoir. 

passing over the river and under the railway, the town of 
Bandown is entered, and the seashore gained close to the 
Sandown Hotel, a fine view being commanded of the Gnler 
Cliffs. After passing through the principal streets, with 
here and there glimpses of the ocean and the headland 
of Dunnose, the barracks are left behind, and the road 
branches inland, runs under the railway, and affords a good 
view of Shanklin Down, Cook's Castle, Appulduroombe Down, 
and the Worsley obelisk. When through the village of 
Lake, and over the bridge which crosses the railway, there is 
also a good view of the sea, the Culver Cliffs, the Bembridge 
Down, its fort and monument ; the Brading, Ashey, Mesdy, 
and Arreton downs. Again, the sea cliffs are skirted, and on 
gaining the top of the high ground the town of Shanklin 
appears immediately below. After going through the eastern 
and newer part of the town, the traveller will be delighted 
with the charming thatched cottages and hotels at the west 
end, near the chine. Here the grounds are very beautiful and 
well wooded, and the waters of the upper part of the chine 
are heard close by on the left, and a pleasant retrospective 
view is had of the Culver Cliffs. Near to the pretty littte 
church the streamlet is crossed, and then Shanklin Down 
appears in front presenting an apparently insurmountable 
barrier to carriages. The road makes a long steep asoeDt, 
and at every step the rearward prospect expands, and 
includes the towns of Shanklin and bandown, with the 
beautiful, bay bounded by the Bembridge Down and the 
white Culver Cliffs. Beyond appears the Brading Haven, and 
from it stretch the Brading, Ashey, Messly, and Arreton 
downs. Close below the traveller Shanklin church is seen, 
and old houses peeping prettily from amongst the trees, 
while in the far distance, over an expanse of ocean, is the 
opposite coast, in the direction of Chichester and Brighton. 
Englefield says : " From every part of this road the views as 
we ascend are eminently fine. The village with its groves 
forms a charming first distance, the bay of Sandown with the 
Culver Cliffs present a noble winding shore, and beyond the 
lowland of Sandown, in the direction of Brading Haven, a 
part of the anchorage of Portsmouth with its shipping is 
visible. From the top of the ascent the elevation of the 
ground is so much greater than the chalk hills of Yaverland, 
that the sea is visible over them ; and the distant blue heights 
of Hampshire and Sussex form an uninterrupted line till, to 
the eastward, they are blended with the horizon of the sea; 



BTDB TO YENTKOB. 39 

emerging out of these watera the white difb near Beachy 
H.ead. are distinctly visible, though from forty to sixty miles 
distant." After gaining the top of the hill the eastern part 
of tine island is lost to sight, and a wide extent of the 
English Channel is spread to view. The road makes a 
long sweep by the side of the downs round the coomhe or 
ficooped out part of the hills, at the bottom of which is 
Ijuooombe GUne. The Lucoombe £arm is close below on 
the left, in a secluded recess, and at the head of the chine are 
two or three houses half hid in a patch of trees and brush- 
wood. As the traveller proceeds he is invigorated by a fine 
breeze, and on gaining die western side of the coombe he 
obtains an excellent prospect of the Culver Cliffo, Bembridge 
Down, the sea, and opposite coast near Chichester. 

Xhiring the descent to Bonchurch, by the steep hill called 
White Shute, the eastern landslip is close below on the left, 
though out of sight. Winding by the side of Bonchurch Down, 
a beautiful view is had of Bonchurch and part of Yentnor, 
with the sea on one side and the high down on the other. 
When going by Bonchurch Hotel the tourist will be gratified 
by a sight of the cliffs on the face of the down, which are 
charmingly covered with rank vegetation of ivy, thorn, &c. 
A steep descent is then made with the new church on the 
right, and after passing the road on the left leading to the old 
church, the walls, rocks, and houses on every hand are shaded 
by trees, and delightfully covered with a luxurious growth of 
a variety of plants. After passing the pond, upon which 
white swans may be seen sailing, and under the shade of 
luxuriant foliage, the road bends to the left, and the town of 
Yentnor is entered close to Holy Trinity church. Here, by 
glancing back, a superb view is had of the ivy-clad cliffs, the 
lovely wooded grounds, and the half-hidden mansions of Bon- 
church. Yentnor, also, in front, has a fine effect, seated at 
the base and along the steep side of St. Boniface Down. 



Byde to Yentnor, by Bailway. 

Brading, 4 miles ; Sandown, 6 miles ; Shanklin, 8 miles ; 
Wroxall, 10 miles ; Yentnor, 12 miles. 

The railway between Byde and Yentnor was opened in 
1866. As soon as a start is made from Byde station, Swan- 
more church is a prominent object, and one mile from Byde the 
Newport and Byde railway branches to the right. The train 



40 BTDB BEOTION. 

then runs through low oak copses, the trees hiding the view 
but once or twice a glimpse is caught of Ashey Down imd 
its landmark on the right. On emerging from the wood and 
passing under the bridge, over which runs the Byde and 
Brading turnpike road, Sie scene opens to the left, including 
the large sheet of water known as Brading Haven, and at its 
mouth are seen a few ships and the houses of St. Helens and 
Bembridge. The line continues along the low ground at the 
head of the haven to Brading station, with Brading village 
and church a few yards on the right, and on the left the 
haven, St. Helens, Bembridge, and Bembridge Down, crowned 
with its fort. Quitting the station the rail passes a small 
cuttii^ in the chalk at the eastern end of Brading Down, 
skirts the Yar river, and passes the hamlet of Yarbridge. 
On the left are the Bembridge Down, fort, and monument; 
Yaverland church and village ; and across the level ground are 
the Yaverland and Sandown forts. Having passed over the 
river and the road, and across a level marshy tract of ground, 
the Sandown station is entered, where another line of mils 
branches to Newport. 

At Sandown station are seen Cook's Castle, Appulduroombe 
Down, Worsley obelisk, Hoy's pillar, Arreton, Messly, 
Ashey, and Brading downs, and a tract of level gorse-coviaed 
ground across to AJverston, Queen's Bower, and Borthwood. 
When one mile beyond Sandown the village of Lake is on 
the right, the line then approaches near the sea cliffs, and 
having crossed the turnpike road, leaves the coast and enters 
the back part of the town of Shanklin. The houses 
stretch a little way up the side of Shanklin Down on the left, 
but the old and most beautiful part of the town is out of 
sight in the hollow. Leaving the station and passing through 
a sandstone cutting. Cook's Castle appears close by overhead 
on the left, and in the distance on right the Brading, Ashey, 
Messly, Arreton, St. George's, and Chillerton downs ; also a 
large trAct of level country with Godshill church very pro- 
minent. Then come Worsley obelisk, Wroxall village, 
Appulduroombe bouse and park. From Wroxall station the 
line runs into the heart of the downs and presently enters the 
tunnel, which is three-quarters of a mile long, and emerges 
between deep sandstone cuttings at the Ventnor station, 
where vehicles are in readiness to take the passengers down 
the steep hill into the town, hardly half a mile distant. 



BTDE TO NIBWFOBT, BY SAILWAT. 41 



Byde to Newport, by Bailway. 

Ashej Station, 2 miles ; Whippingham Station, 6 miles ; 

Newport, 8 miles. 

This line was opened for traffic on the 20th December, 1875, 
and joins the Cowes and Newport railway at Newport. Fre- 
yionsly persons travelled between Byde and Newport prin- 
cipally by coach, and sometimes by rail via Sandown, the 
latter being a circuitous route of 15 miles. 

Leaving Byde station the Swanmore church and Aldermoor 
windmill appear. For three-quarters of a mile the train runs by 
the side of the line leading to Brading and Yentnor, and then 
winds to the right. Emerging from the copse the Aldermoor 
mill is again seen, and the Brading and Ashey downs come 
in view. After passing under the Byde and Ashey road the 
Ashey station is reached. A road runs hence to Ashey, 
Nunwell, and Brading; to Byde by Gatehouse and Alder- 
moor, or by Smallbrook ; and to Ashey Down, Knighton, 
Newchurch, &c. Ashey Down, with its seamark, is a pro- 
minent object, and on its summit may be obtained one of the 
most magnificent and extensive views of the island, and across 
the Solent to Portsmouth and Southampton Water. 

Passing through a copse, a pleasant, open, and well- wooded 
district is entered ; the houses and church at Haven Street 
being on the right, and on the left the Messljr &Qd Arreton 
downs. From Haven Street the line continues through 
thick copses and a beautifully wooded country to Whipping- 
ham station. Part of Osborne estate is close by, but Osborne 
house is 2 miles distant, and Whippingham church 1^ miles. 
From the station are visible West Oowes, a strip of the 
Medina estuary, Parkhurst barracks and prison, and from a 
point a few yards beyond the station the towers of Osborne. 
After leaving Whippingham station good views are obtained 
of the Medina ; and Newport and CWisbrooke come in sight. 
A junction between the three railways, of which Newport is 
the terminus, is approaching completion, when all parts of the 
north and east side of the island will be in iminterrupted 
railway commvmication. 



( *2 ) 



SANDOWN SECTION. 



-•^•- 



SAHDOWH. 

Sandowk has increased more rapidly within the last few years 
than any other town on the island. This prosperity is partly 
owing to the place being a junction where the raUway, 
equi-distant between Byde and Yentnor, meets the one from 
Newport, but the principal cause is the beauty of the situa- 
tion, and its proximity to the finest sea-bathing ground 
on the island. It stands nearly in the centre of a large 
semi-circular bay, bounded on l^e east by the magnificent 
chalk cliffs, known as the Culvers, and on the west by 
the dark sandstone promontory of Dunnoee Point ; the inter- 
mediate ground, 7 miles in extent, being a clean, hard, 
sandy shore, with high perpendicular cl^ of variously 
coloured sands and clays. Advantage has been taken of a 
break in the mural barrier facing the sea, and the town has 
been planted where the ground slopes gently to the shore. A 
local board of health was established in 1861, and during 
the fourteen years ending December, 1875, the rateable value 
had increased more thui fourfold ; whilst at the present 
time (1878) more houses are being simultaneously erected 
than at any former period. As a watering-place Sandown is 
becoming each year more extensively patronized. One of its 
recommendations is that the whole of the sewage of the 
town, instead of entering the sea, is filtered inland by an 
excellent process. It is almost universally the plan in other 
watering-places to discharge the sewage refuse into the sea— 
a practice which cannot be too strongly condemned. In order 
thoroughly to accomplish their design the local authorities, 
about ten years ago, spent nearly a thousand pounds in making 
a low-level sewer to drain about four houses, which were 
situated too low for the ordinary main sewer. That expendi- 
ture, deemed excessive by some, has yielded an abundant 
return, and has found favour from the Crown Prince of 
Oermany and the Princess Royal of England (who enjoyed 
the Sandown bathing for two months) to the humble 
peasant who avails himself of the ''bathing tickets to 



SANDOWN. 43 

Sandown,** issued by the railway company from other towns 
at reduced fares. 

Until the middle of this century Sandown consisted of a 
cluster of fishermen's huts and an humble wayside inn. 
Now^ there are handsome churches, chapels, hotels, and 
honses suitable for a fashionable seaside resort. Marine 
baths, bathing machines^ pleasure and fishine boats, and 
horses for a gallop on the sands, can always oe obtained. 
There is a spacious well-lighted town hall, being the second 
in point of size on the island. The ceiling has been greatly 
admired for its polychromatic colouring, subdued into very 
pleasing effects. A reading room and several croquet 
groan ds for the use of the public are attached. 

A light and elegant promenade pier has lately been erected, 
which is to be further extended into deep water for the ac- 
commodation of steam-packets. Facing the pier stands the 
newly-erected Esplanade Hotel, and but a few yards farther 
a skating and tennis rink has been built, beneath which is a 
fancy bazaar. 

Away from the coast the country, around Sandown is 
comparatively tame and uninteresting, although here and 
there are pleasant leafy lanes and shady copses, hiding at- 
tractive tarms and villages. The river Yar meanders 
through this broad flat tract, which is bounded by the semi- 
circu& belt of hills stretching from Bembridge and Bradins 
downs, past Ashey and Arreton downs, to die bold &oe (» 
Bhanklin Down ; and at the foot of the latter is the fsistr 
increasing town of Shanklin, occupying a rival position on 
the western side of the bay. 

In the time of Henir YIIL, a fort was erected at Sandown, 
which was encroached upon by the waves, and had to be 
taken down, and removed £Eirther inland in Charles the 
First^s reign. Barracks were also erected, and the place was 
considered of military importance, being able to boast of 
its governor, who was often a man of some note. The 
barracks in course of time ceased to be occupied by soldiers, 
and were rented partly as a shop, partly by cottagers, and 
the post of governor having become a sinecure, was abolished, 
the fort being placed under the care of a pensioned gunner. 
The fort was lately taken down and a new and stronger one, 
faced with granite, and armed with twelve or more heavy 
guns, has b^n since erected nearer to the Bembridge Down, 
and one much larger on Bembridge Down, one on Sandown 
cliff, and two other forts near the Bed Cliff. 

Sandown is Inseparably connected with the memory o^ 



4A SANDOWtf SEOTION. 

John Wilkes, of the * North Briton,* who may bo said to 
have discovered the place. He came in 1788, leased & 
cottage, which he fondly called his " Villakin,*' and spent 
here the latter years of his Ufe, with occasional visits ta 
London ; writii^ his own ' Mem(Hrs,' and entertaining with 
witty gossip and old wine his numerous visitors. His 
letters to his daughter are full of amusing descriptions of the 
place, and of his neighbours, lus difficulty in obtaining pro- 
visions, his love for the feathered tribes, the kindness of the 
gentry of the neighbourhood in supplying his wants, his visits 
to them and their visits to him. He was a regular guest at 
Knighton and Appuldurcombe, and numbered the Hills of 
St. Boniface, the Bassetts, the Oglanders, and all the leading 
island gentry among his associates. We gather from his 
correspondence a very pleasing idea of the genial and refined 
hospitality which prevailed among them. He died in London 
in 1797, at the age of 70. His Yillakin has been taken 
down and on its site is now a shop in the principal street 
There may be seen at the residence of Mr. John Riddicks 
the deputy steward of Brading, a library chair which belonged 
to Wilkes. It was purchased at the sale of his furniture 
after his death. 

Wilkes received a liberal education, made the grand tour, 
in those days the necessary finale to the education of a 
man of good family ; he married a lady, who brought him a 
considerable fortune, became a colonel in the Buckingham 
militia, and entered Parliament in 1761 as the representative 
for Aylesbury. Becoming the proprietor and editor of a 
periodical paper, called the * North Briton,' he published a 
coarse libel on the king and his government. A general 
warrant was issued by the secretary of state. He was 
seized and committed to the Tower, and brought up by 
writ of Habeas Corpus before chief justice Pratt of the 
Common Pleas ; it was decided that general warrants were 
illegal, and Wilkes was accordingly discharged. Meanwhile 
he incurred a prosecution for publishing a poem called ' An 
Essay on Woman ; ' he did not appear to receive judgment 
and was outlawed. He removed to France, and resided there 
till 1768, when he was elected by a large n[iajority over the 
ministerial candidate. The House refused to consider him 
elected; he was committed to the King's Bench prison. 
Dreadful riots thereupon broke out in the metropolis, and the 
demagogue rose to the height of his popularity ; he became 
what in some respects he was not ill fitted for, a popular hero. 
A liberal subscription discharged his debts. In 1774 he was 



JOHN WILKIS. 46 

elected Lord Mayor of London, and again returned member 
for Middlesex. The ministry withdrew their opposition, and 
he -was permitted to take his seat The remainder of his 
career was tranquil, and chiefly devoted to literary pursuits 
ajid the decoration of his little island villa. He had for 
several years been wont to pay occasional visits to the Isle of 
Wight, his acquaintance with its beauties commencing while, 
as colonel of the Buckingham militia, he was quartered at 
Winchester. In 1788 he obtained a lease of a cottage, 
where, weary with a dissolute career, he resolved to seek a 
retreat for his old age. Its decorations and the embellish- 
ments of its grounds became the amusement of his declining 
yeans. It stood in an enclosure of four acres. In his 
garden and shrubbery he chiefly cultivated the common 
shrubs and flowers, professing no admiration for exotics. He 
erected a memorial to his friend Churchill, the poet ; it was 
an imitation of Virgirs tomb, which bore a long Latin in- 
scription on a Doric pillar. The interior he used as a recep- 
tacle of his choicest wines. He bequeathed the lease of his 
cottage to his natural daughter, HiUTiet Wilkes, but it has 
since passed into other haiKiB. 

On Sunday, March 24th, 1878, occurred a similar disaster 
to that of the * Royal George.' The * Eurydice,* training- 
frigate, with over 300 men and boys of the Naval Beserve, 
homeward-bound from the West Indies, was capsized in 
Sandown Bay, within one hour's sail of her destination. It 
was truly a national disaster. The afternoon was splendid, 
and she was admired by all spectators as she passed Yentnor 
under a heavy press of canvas. After rounding Dunnose 
Point a sudden squall, accompanied by rain and sleet, took 
her aback, and before the sails could be taken in she heeled 
over, the sea rushed into her open ports, and she sank in 
fourteen £athoms of water. Several futile efforts have been 
made to raise her. Only two survived to tell the story of 
the disaster. 

Places of Wobship. 

Christ Church. Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. 

Independent Chapel. Primitive Methodist Chapel. 

Hotels. 
Sandown Hotel. York Hotel. 

King's Head Hotel. Station Hotel. 

£splanade Hotel. 



46 BANDOWN BBOTIOK. 

Sandown to Shanklin, by tlie Shore. 

Visitors to Sandown and Shanklin will never i^eaiy of 
strolling along the hard firm sands of the magnificent bay, 
close to which both towns are situated. The perpendi- 
cular cliffs of variously coloured sand, from 100 to 150 feet 
high, arranged in horizontal layers, will interest alike the 
lovers of the picturesque, and the students of geology ; and 
the bold headlands of the Culver Cliffs on one hand and the 
Dunnose Point on the other are fit bulwarks for this beaati- 
ful and extensive bay. The distance from town to town is 
little over two miles. The traveller must be careful to note 
the state of the tide, for at high water the waves wash against 
the hase of Litter Stairs Point, a headland not far from 
Shanklin. While it is necessary at this projection of the 
stupendous cliff to make sure if the tide be rising that there is 
plenty of room to pass, no fear need he entertained at other 
times, and during the rest of the walk there is ample space for 
the pedestrian at any stete of the tide. Immediately after leav- 
ing Sandown the cliffs rise sheer from the shore to a great 
height, and exhibit admirable sections of the lower beds of the 
lower greensand, displaying almost every variety from a cal- 
careous rock, resembling the Kentish rag, to a stone composed 
almost entirely of green particles of silicate of iron. As the 
traveller proceeds, the different heds appear with beautiful dis- 
tinctness, presenting alternations of clay and sand of varying 
degrees of hardness; sometimes rising in mural cUSs whose 
loamy surface is continually peeling off in large flakes, rendering 
it rather perilous to walk too close, especially after rain or frost ; 
in other places broken by shelves covered with coarse v^eta- 
tion. The views the whole way are very beautiful. The 
houses on the cliffs at Sandown and Shanklin here and there 
are seen ; in the rear are the white Culver Cliffs, and above^ 
on the summit of Bembridge Down, stands conspicuously the 
obelisk erected in honour of the late Earl of Yarborough, who 
was so greatly esteemed as the Commodore of the Royal 
Yacht Squadron. In front are the Yellow Ledge and the 
high down of Shanklin. 

Sandown to Shanklin, by the ClifiQs. 

The summit of the cliffs between Sandown and Shanklin 
is almost level the whole way, and therefore the walk may he 
undertaken without any fear of fatigue. The path in many 



8AKD0WN TO BED GUFF. 47 

places is dose to the precipice, and not safe* at night, or in a 
mist ; but at other limes there is no danger if ordinary care 
be used. The cliff is gained at the west end of the town, 
near to Sandown battery, a fortification containing five 150-lb. 
guns. Close by are the barracks, now nsed as a convalescent 
hospital for soldiers. A few yards Deirther the cliff is high 
and precipitous. In one place, however, a path has been cut 
down to the shore. The views are very beautifal the whole 
way, and include Shanklin Down, CSook's Castle, Worsley 
obelLsk, the intervening undulating tract to the Arreton, 
Messly, Ashey, and Brading downs. In the rear are Ban- 
down and the Bembridge Down, the fort and monument, the 
B^ad ClifiGs, and the Culver Cliffs. There is the broad expanse 
of ocean hounded on the west by the Yellow Ledge Point 
beyond Shanklin. The constant murmur of the waves is 
beard, but few will dare to look over the precipice to the 
shore below, and it would be unwise to approach too near the 
crombling verge. This path, which has been long noted for 
the combined beauty of sea and land views, and the striking 
contrast of the often extremely blue water with the white 
cliffs of Culver, was a point of frequent attraction to the late 
Bishop Wilberforce, who used to leave the train at Sandown 
station to enjoy his favourite walk to Shanklin. From the 
rapid absorption of moisture by the sand, the path is pro- 
verbially dry in wet weather. 

On reaching Shanklin a descent may be made to the shore 
at either end of the esplanade, or the cliff may be kept and 
a descent made by the Chine Inn to the mouth of the Chine. 

Sandown to Bed Cliff. 

Bed Cliff is seated between Sandown and the Culver 
Cliffs. At low water it may be reached after a pleasant walk 
of 1^ miles, on tolerably smooth sands ; but at high tide slow 
progress is made along the heavy shingle, and therefore it is 
well to follow the path on the cliffs for some distance. This 
short excursion will be especially interesting to the geologist, 
for it brings into view three formations, the Wealden near 
the town, the greensands of Red Clif^ and the chalk of the 
Culver Cliffs. " In the Wealden, bones of large reptiles, and 
fruits of coniferous plants have from time to time been dis- 
covered ; and many colossal bones of the Iguanodon have been 
obtained from the shingle. Slabs of the paludina limestone, 
commonly called Sussex marble, and of indurated shale, full 



48 8AND0WN BEOnON. 

of fresh-water bivalves, may generally be seen protruding froa 
the clay.** The cliffs for some distance are composed of land- 
slips of clay and sand partly covered with grass and gorse, 
and at their base a shingly beach of rounded flints. Near 
the Bed Cliff fort a rough path, known as the Cuckoo Boad, 
leads from the brow of the cliffs to the shore, fiere the 
cliffs assume a bold aspect, presenting a perpendicular wall 
of red and yellow sand, about 150 feet high, seamed by the 
rains and honeycombed by the weather. Where the chalk 
cliff begins an ascent may be made by a winding path, called 
the Limpet Road, or the traveller may continue some distance 
farther amongst the boulders at the foot of the majestic head- 
land of the Culver ClifGs. 

Attempts have too often been made to round the point of Cul- 
ver on foot, by toiling over the huge masses of rock which look 
comparatively small at a distance ; but even at the lowest 
spring tides the sea strikes the perpendicular cliff, rendering it 
impossible to accomplish the journey. Great risk to life has 
several times been incurred in making the attempt, and the 
wearied explorer, after toiling over the rocks, has been sur- 
rounded by the tide, with an impassable cliff before him; 
his voice too distant to be heard, and his handkerchief-flag 
just providentially seen in time to secure the strong pull of 
the ^ndown wat^men. 

Sandown to Bembridge Down, the Culver Clifflsy 

and Whitecliff Bay. 

Bembridge Down, 355 feet high, is the eastern termination 
of the range of chalk hills which run hence through the 
centre of the island westward to the Needles. On its summit 
is a strong fort, and the Yarborough monument. 

Leaving the town by the shore road, the traveller passes 
the Sandown Hotel, the coastguard station, and the site 
where in olden times stood the Sandown fort. The old 
historical fort has been entirely demolished, but in its place, 
a few yards distant, has been erected a powerful namesake, 
faced with granite, and armed with eight 18-ton guns for 
300-lb. shot, and four 12-ton guns for 250-lb. shot ; there are 
also ten smaller guns on the top of the fort. Close to the 
fort a footpath is entered, which runs along the brow of the 
cliffs and commands a fine view of the bay of Dunnose Point 
Gradually as the higher ground is gained the view expands, 
and includes the towns of Sandown and Shanklin, Dunnose 



BEMBBEDGS DOWN. 49 

Point, the Shanklin Down, Cook'd Castle, Appulduroombe 
Down, and Worsley obelisk, Hoy's monument, the Chillerton, 
St. G-eorge's, Arreton, and Blading downs, with the interme- 
diate undulating country. The Bed Cliffs and the white 
Culver Cliffs, with the long line of silver-crested waves, have 
also a pleasing effect. Yaverland battery, containing 8 guns 
for 110-lb. shot, is passed on the left, and then the Bed Cliff 
battery of four guns for 110-lb. shot is on the right Here 
the path divides, one branch continuing along tiie edge of 
the clifGs to the down and monument, and the other bending 
to the left and leading through a field or two direct to the 
fort on the summit of the hilL The fort contains six guns for 
110-lb. shot, and as seen from the outside is apparently very 
strong, and well worth a visit. The view from this point is 
extensive and beautiful. There is a wide expanse of sea, and 
the fine bay of Sandown bounded by Dunnose Point. Then 
appear the towns of Sandown and Shanklin, and the Shanklin 
and Appulduroombe downs, Worsley obelisk, and Hoy's 
monument, and an expansive undulating vale, terminated by 
the Chillerton Down. Close at hand are the church and 
houses of Bembridge half hid amongst trees; the Brading 
Haven, which at full tide has a pretty effect at the spectator's 
feet, with the houses of St. Helens and the St. Helens fort at 
one end, and at the other the Brading village and church ; 
the mansion and woods of Nunwell and the hamlets of 
Yarbridge and Yaverland. A pleasant stretch of undulating 
woodland extends thence to the houses of Upper Ryde, Swan- 
more church and Aldermoor mill, and across the Solent is 
the coast at Southsea and Portsmouth. 

About 600 yards from the fort is the Yarborough monu- 
ment. It is an obelisk of solid granite, 75 feet high. 
Formerly it stood where the fort now stands, but the site 
being required by government it was removed. The monu- 
ment was erected in 1849 by the members of the Boyal 
Yacht Squadron, to the memory of their founder and first 
commodore, the Earl of Yarborough. Upon it is the follow- 
ing : ** To the memory of Charles Anderson Pelham, Earl of 
Yarborough, Baron Yarborough, of Yarborough, in the county 
of Lincoln, Baron Worsley, of Appulduroombe, in the Isle of 
Wight, D.C.L., P.B.S., F.S.A., &c., &c. ; whose benevolence, 
kindness of heart, and many virtues endeared him to all who 
knew him, this monument was erected, as a testimony of 
affection and respect, by public subscription. As the owner 
of large estates he was one of those most conspicuous for the 

E 



50 8AND0WN BBOnOK* 



qualities which peculiarily adorn that station, and as tbe &st 
Commodore of tne Royal Yacht Squadron he was eminent in 
fosteriog and encouraging by his example and liberality all 
that was calculated toi improve the science of naval architec- 
ture and the maritime interests of his country. He died on 
hoard his yacht the 'Kestrel' in the port of Yigo^ in Spain, 
Septemher 5th, 1846, aged 65." 

From the monument there is a noble prospect, embraciDg 
the picturesque bay and cliffs from Sandown and Shanklin to 
Dunnose Point, backed by the southern range of downs ; and 
in the opposite direction appear the Bembridge promontory, 
Brading Haven, and St. Helens, with a heautiful tract of 
woodland thence to the houses of Upper Ryde, whilst farther 
distant is the Solent, and the long line of coast stretching 
from Southampton Water, past Portsmouth, to Selsey Bill 
The spectator hears the murmuring waves at the foot of 
the down on which he stands, and his eye glances over a 
vast expanse of the boundless ocean. 

From the monument the smooth grassy down gradually 
slopes to the edge of a fearful precipice, where the Culver 
Gliffs rise perpendicularly from the sea to a height of 200 
feet. Culver is said to he derived from the old English 
name for dove, and we are told that formerlypigeons built in 
the cliffs and were exceedingly numerous. The pigeons have 
disappeared, and it is also high time that this flEincifal deriva- 
tion of the name should become obsolete. The word is 
without doubt derived from the Anglo-Saxon word cqfOf 
a cave or cove, hcDce the cofa, corrupted into Culver Cliflfe— 
the cliffs by the cove. We find the same word amongst tbe 
mountains of the English Lake District — in Cofa Pike, Calva 
Pike, Keppel Cove. 

The cliffs are composed of chalk, interspersed with streaks 
of flint, and they thus present a very fine appearance. At 
one point, not far from the monument, a narrow track leads 
down the face of the cliff a few yards to a small recess called 
the Hermit's Hole, where a good view is had of Sandown, 
Shanklin, and Dunnose Point. To those accustomed to steep 
places the descent is not in the least dangerous. It is said 
that once when a gentleman was desceQding by this track he 
met a sheep coming up, and fortunately had presence of mind 
to throw himself on his face, when the sheep immediately 
jumped over him, a result doubtless agreeable to both parties. 
The imagination of the peasant made this desolate spot the 
scene of dark traditions. Strange stories are told of a vnzard 



\ 



WHITB CLIFF BAT. 61 

wfa.o dwelt in the cave and sallied out at nights to waylay 
strangers, and to slay and bewitcli, but none knew whence 
he came. 

lio one ought to climb to the summit of Bembridge Down 
without also descending by a winding path among ferns and 
brushwood to White CM Bay, which is bounded on the west 
by the Culver Cliffs, and on the east by Bembridge Foreland. 
It is a lovely secluded place, with beautiful sands suitable for 
bathing, and variously coloured cliffis of sand, marl, and 
limestone, only inferior in beauty and geological interest to 
those of the same character met with in Alum Bay, at the 
opposite end of the island. The strata are eocene deposits of 
marine, brackish, and fresh-water formations resting on the 
chalk. Near Foreland Point the Bembridge limestone forms 
a great part of the floor of the shore, and extends for some 
distance out to sea in a reef known as the Bembridge Ledge. 
On the 14:th November, 1877, the new iron barque * Alphela ' 
was driven on Bembridge Ledge, where she was lodged for five 
months, but was at last got off by Capt. Coppin (by whom 
she had been bought for a nominal sum), and towed into 
Poi-tsmouth, where she was refitted for sea. The speculators 
cleared some thousands of pounds by the transaction. 

The admirers of Leigh Bichmond's writings will recall to 
mind his vivid description of the scenery here in his * Negro 
Servant.' 

** As I pursued the meditations which this magnificent and 
varied scenery excited in my mind I approached the edge of 
a tremendous perpendicular cliff, with which the down termi- 
nates. The breaking of the waves against the foot of the cliff 
at so great a distance beneath me produced an incessant and 
pleasing murmur. The seagulls were flying between the top 
of the cliff where I stood and the rocks below, attending 
upon their nests, built in the holes of the cliff. The whole 
scene in every direction was grand and impressive ; it was 
suitable to devotion. ... I cast my eye downwards a 
little to the left towards a small cove, the shore of which 
consists of fine hard sand. It is surrounded by fragments of 
rock, chalk cliffs, and steep banks of broken earth. Shut out 
from human intercourse and dwellings, it seems formed for 
retirement and contemplation. On one of these rocks 1 
unexpectedly observed a man sitting with a book, which he 
was reading. The place was near two hundred yards perpen- 
dicularly Mow me, but I soon discovered, by his dress, and 
by the black colour of his features, contrasted with the white 

E 2 



52 49AKDOWK SEOTIOIT. 

rocks behind him, that it was no other than my negro disciple 
with, as I doubted not, a Bible in his hand. I rejoiced at ilus 
unlooked-for opportunity of meeting him in so solitary and 
interesting a situation. I descended a steep bank, winding 
by a kind of rude staircase, formed by fishermen and shep- 
herds* boys in the side of the cliflF, down to the shore. . . . 
The circumstances of the place in which we met together 
contributed much to the interesting effect which the con- 
versation produced on my mind. The little cove or bay was 
beautiful in the extreme. The air was calm and serene. The 
sun shone, but we were sheltered from its rays by the cWSk, 
One of these was stupendously lofty and large. It was white 
as snow ; its summit being directly over our heads. The sea 
fowls were flying around it. Its whiteness was occasionally 
chequered with dark-green masses of samphire, which grew 
there. On the other side, and behind us, was a more gradual 
declivity of many-coloured earths, interspersed with green 
patches of grass and bushes, and little streams of water 
trickling down the bank, and minglmg with the sea at the 
bottom. At our feet the waves were advancing over shelves 
of rocks covered with a great variety of seaweeds, which 
swam in little fragments and displayed much beauty and 
elegance of form, as they were successively thrown upon the 
sand. Ships of war and commerce were seen at different 
distances. Fishermen were plying their trade in boats nearer 
the shore. The noise of the flowing tide, combined with the 
voices of the seagulls over our heads, and now and then 
a distant gun fired from the ships as they passed along added 
much to the peculiar sensations to which the scene gave 
birth. Occasionally, the striking of oars upon the waves, 
accompanied by the boatman's song, met the ear. The sheep 
aloft upon the down sometimes mingled their bleating with 
the other sounds. Thus all nature seemed to invite in im- 
pressing an attentive observer's heart with affecting thoughts." 



Sandown to Yaverland and Bembridgei and back 

by the Seashore. 

Yaverland, 1| miles ; Bembridge, 4J miles. 

Leaving the town at the east end, the road runs close to 
the shore, and past the site of the old Sandown fort. On 
the left, across level land, are seen Ashey and Brading downs, 
with the houses at Brading Mall; in fit>nt are the hamlet 



YAYBBLAND, 53 

and fort of Taverland, the Bembridge Down, and the Culver 
Cliffs, whilst in rear there is the sea stretching past Sandown 
and Shanklin to Dunnose Point, and the Shanklin Down. Close 
past the Granite fort the road leads to left to Yaverland. 
This is a picturesque village, consisting of a few thatched 
cottages, an old church, and a manor house standing in a re- 
tired situation beneath shadowiug elms, on the west side of 
Bembridge Down. It is a favourite subject with artists, the 
whole forming an attractive picture. 

Xjeigh Eichmond held the curacy along with that of Brading, 
and it was here that he made his first unsuccessful attempt 
at extempore preaching, though he was afterwards celebrated 
for the power aud eloquence of his extemporaneous discourses. 
He thus describes the church : 

'^ It was pleasantly situated on a rising bank, at the foot 
of a considerable hilL It was surrouuded by trees, and had 
a rural retired appearance. Close to the churchyard stood a 
large old mansion, which had formerly been the residence of 
an opulent and titled family; but it had long since been 
appropriated to the use of the estate as a farmhouse. Its 
outward aspect bore considerable remains of grandeur, and 
gave a pleasing character to the spot of ground on which the 
church stood. In every direction the roads that led to this 
house of God possessed distinct but interesting features. One ' 
of them ascended between several rural cottages, from the 
seashore, which adjoined the lower part of the village street. 
Another winded round the curved sides of the adjacent hilly 
and was adorned both above and below, with numerous sheep 
feeding on the herbage of the down. A third road led to the 
church by a gently rising approach, between high banks, 
covered with young trees, bushes, ivy, hedge plants, and wild 
flowers." The third road here mentioned is the one from Yai^ 
bridge, the course of which has been slightly altered since 
Leigh Eichmond's time. 

The church was built in the reign of Edward I., by Sir 
William Russell, for the convenience of his family and tenants, 
who had been forced previously to attend the mother church 
at Brading, which was often inaccessible during floods, neither 
Yarbridge nor the causeway having been built^ The south 
door and chancel arch are good specimens of the barbaric 
richness of the Norman style. 

The Manor House, at present inhabited by the farmer of 
the estate, was erected in the reign of James I., after the 
manor had passed by purchase from the Bussells, the pro^ 



54 SAKDOWK SEOTION. 

genitors of the noble family of Bedford, who were Lords <rf 
Yaverland &om the days of Edward L to those of Mary. Sir 
Theobald Bussell, one of the chief heroes of the island, com- 
manded the inhabitants in 1340, when they snccessfnlly 
sesisted a French invading force that landed at Bembridge, 
but imfortnnately he was slain in the moment of victoiy. 
The house contains some grotesque wood carvings, two figures 
popularly known as Nero and Cleopatra, and oth^ monstrous 
conceptions of the carver, in the shape of Moors' heads with 
wings ; some playing on musical instruments, stane as brackets 
to support the ceiling of the staircase. 

A few yards beyond the church there is a view of Brading 
Haven, the village of St. Helens, and the Bembridge Down 
and fort Here the road divides, the right-hand branch leading 
to Bembridge, and the left makes a steep descent by what is 
known as the Marsh Combe Shute,* to the hamlet of Tar- 
bridge, and thence to Brading. The tourist will observe a 
guide post at the junction of the roads, on which is inscribed, 
2 miles to Bembridge ; but he must not be misled by this, for he 
will afterwards ^nd that the distance is at least 3 miles. Many 
other guide posts on the island appear to have been erected 
in a similarly careless manner. A few yards farther the foot 
of the down is skirted, whence the summit might quickly be 
gained by a pleasant walk over the smooth green turf. The 
road winds pleasantly and slightly ascends the side of the 
down. If on horseback the tourist can have a fine gallop on 
the clean grassy carpet. The air here is pure and bracing, 
and there is a noble prospect which embraces the down, and 
town of Brading; the woods of Nunwell, Aldermoor mill, 
Swanmore church, and the houses in Upper Ryde; the 
Brading Haven, St. Helens, Bembridse, St. Helens for^ the 
sea, and the opposite coast. When close under the fort the 
road bends to left and leaves the down. Here the writer saw 
twelve oxen, in three teams, ploughing in an adjoining] field. 
The custom is still not uncommon in the island. The oxen 
are considered all the better for being so employed from about 
two to three years of age. Proceeding a short distance farther 
the fort and monument come in full view on the right, and 
on the left the entrance to the haven, with St. Helens, Bem- 

♦ Shute is a local word very common in the Isle of Wight, and 
is used to denote places where the road is steep. Some say it is a 
West Saxon or Wessex word, meaning a steep hill, or road down; 
others derive it from the French chutey a steep ascent, or falL 



BBMBBn>OE. 55 

bridge, and the white landmark of the St. Helens old church. 
The road ascends to the windmill and then the village is 
ijtiickly entered. 

Bembridge being situated away from- the ordinary route of 
tourists is little known, but it is a favourite spot with the few. 
who have become acquainted with its mauy attractions. It is 
pleasantly situated close to the sea at the mouth of Brading 
Haven, in the north-east side of Bembridge Down, 4 miles 
from Brading. With its modem church and villas, half hid 
by trees, it presents a cheerful aspect, and ofifers a charming 
retreat for those who are fond of seclusion. The air is pure ; 
the walks are many and varied ; there are fishing and bojAting 
in the haven and in the open sea; and the botanist and 
geologist will find the district specially fiivourable to their 
respective pursuits. Some gentlemen reside here to avail 
themselves of the facilities afforded for yachting. With all 
its advantages, however, the place has not been much visited, 
and a large hotel, which was at one time opened, is now con- 
verted into a private house, but there are still the Pilot Boat 
Hotel, the Prince of Wales Inn, Commercial Inn, and Marine 
Tav^n. A footpath, which may be entered near the wind- 
mill, leads by the side of the haven from Bembridge to 
Brading—Hlistance Sk miles. About half a mile distant on 
this path stood the cottage of Woolverton, lately burnt down, 
where dwelt John Wheeler, a farm labourer, who was clerk at 
Yaverland when the Bev. Legh Richmond was curate, and it 
was to this cottage that the latter often resorted. Some dis- 
tance farther is the wood known as Centurion's Copse, pre- 
serving in its name a trace of the existence of the chapel of 
St. Urian, built by the Lords of the adjacent manor of 
Woolverton (Wulfliere's town), of which some shapeless 
ruins are said still to exist half hid in the brushwood. 

The return journey to Sandown from Bembridge may be 
pleasantly varied by walking along the sands and cliffs by the 
seashore, a distance of 6 miles. Near Bembridge the coast 
consists of low cliffs of gravel and rounded pebbles, and close 
below them a pebbly shore, which is tedious to walk over at 
high tide, therefore it is well to follow the coastguard path 
that generally runs on the brow of the cliffs. . The man- 
sions and private grounds of Earl Fitzwilliam and others are 
passed on the right, and a fine view is had across the sea to 
Stokes Bay, Portsmouth, and Southsea. The spire of Chi- 
chester Cathedral is visible in the distance on a clear day. At 
ebb tide the traveller may walk on the sands, which are firm 



56 8Ainx>wK sxonoK. 

and good, and will probably prove tempting for a bathe. Kear 
a flag-staff, and a lifeboat station, the Lane End villagei, 
consisting of a few fishermen's cottages, stands a short distance 
from the shore in a rather bare and uninteresting part of the 
island. The lifeboat is often needed, for the Bembridge Ledge, 
which is very dangerous, and the scene of many shipwrecks, 
runs for 1| miles into the sea, being covered at high water, 
but bare during ebb tide. After passing Foreland farm, the 
White CliflF ana Dunnose Point become visible in front, along 
with the fort and monument on Brading Down ; and acroes 
the -water is displayed the Sussex coast from Chichester 
Harbour to Selsey Bill. 

One and a half miles from Bembridge is the Foreland 
coastguard station, with a few fishermen's cottages and a 
small pubhc-house, the Grab and Lobster Inn. Here are 
beautiful smooth sands, and the cliffs present fine sections for 
the geologist, being composed of horizontal layers of sand 
and pebbles. These give place to cliffs covered with grass 
and gorse, until at Black Bock Point a ledge of fresh- 
water limestone appears. This limestone strata extends over 
most of the northern part of the island, and is known as the 
Bembridge limestone. Passing this point, the White Cliff 
Bay is entered, a lovely secluded nook, with a fine pebbly 
and sandy beach, and beautiful cliffs, composed of various 
coloured sands, similar to those in Alum Bay. At one point 
will be found a hole where is seen a layer of coal, which, 
however, has not been thought of sufficient value to pay for 
working.* The traveller presently finds himself directly 
beneath the Culver Cliffs, which rise perpendicularly from 
the ocean to a height of 200 feet, and are composed of chalk, 
with thin layers of flints. The pedestrian cannot get round 
these cliffs except during spring tides, but any time at low 
water he may proceed some little distance ; and it is a fine 
sight to view the stupendous heights from below, whilst thread^ 
ing one's way amongst large rounded lumps of chalk and flints^ 
the debris of masses which have fallen from above in previous 
years. The cliffs rise to a great height, their whitish-grey sides 
streaked with parallel lines of fiints, the latter being at an 

* Sir Richard Worsley in his history of the island, published in 
1781, speaking of this coal says : '^ The late Sir Robert Worsley snnk 
a shaft for it on his estate at Bembridge, but found the vein so 
thin that, fearing it would not answer the expense, he desisted 
from the undertaking/* 



THE OULYBB OLIfFS. 57 

angle of about 45°. On roundiDg the first point a grand 
secluded cove is entered, on the west side of which stands the 
^White Horse, a large semi-detached mass, partly covered 
^writh samphire. On its summit are rocks of fantastic shape 
presenting the appearance of a miniature castle. When 
round the White Horse, two cavern-like holes are gained, 
called the Nosters, and then by scramji)ling up a steep rock, 
known as the Shao; Eock, a lovely view is had of the 
clififs and coast to Dunnose Point; but farther progress is 
impossible. The tourist will probably not succeed even in 
gaining this point without now and again stepping off the 
slippery seaweed into some small pools of water, and wetting 
fais feet. On retracing his steps for a short distance the top 
of the cliffs may be reached by a zigzag path close to where 
the sand begins to cover the chalk. 

When on the Bembridge Down the smooth slope may be 
traversed at the very edge of the precipice, but few will dare 
to look over the horrid steep : 

" How fearfril 
And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low t 
The crows, and choughs, that wing the midway air, 
Show scarce so gross as beetles : half way down 
Hangs one that gathers samphire ; dreadful trade I 
Methinks, he seems no bigger than his head : 
The fishermen, that walk upon the beach. 
Appear like mice ; and yon tall anchoring bark, 
Diminished to her cock ; her cock, a buoy 
Almost too small for sight : the murmuring surge, 
That on the unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes. 
Cannot be heard so high : I'll look no more ; 
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight 
Topple down headlong." 

These clififs were in former times famous for a valuable 
breed of hawks, which were considered of such value that 
Queen Elizabeth in 1564 issued a warrant to the captam of 
the island, to make diligent search after some that had been 
stolen, and also ** for the persons faultie of this stealth and 
presumptuous attempt." 

From the Yarborough monument a path leads along the 
edge of the clififs, with fine views of the lovely bay stretching 
past Sandown and Shanklin to Dunnose Point, but the 
traveller will be especially pleased with the beauty of the 
sands close below him, at the base of the perpendicular and 
variously coloured precipice, known as Ked Clifif. On 



60 8AND0WN SXOnON. 

feeding on its banks. Here and there, lesser eminences arose 
in the valley ; some covered with wood, others with com or 
grass, and a few with heath or fern. One of these little hills 
was distinguished by a parish church at the top, presenting a 
striking feature in the landscape. Another of these elevations, 
situated in the centre of the valley, was adorned with a 
venerable holly tree, which has grown there for s^s. Its 
singular height and wide-spreading dimensions not only 
render it an object of curiosity to the traveller, but of daily 
usefulness to the pilot, as a mark visible from the sea, 
whereby to direct his vessel safe into harbour. Villages, 
churches, country seats, farmhouses, and cottages were 
scattered over every part of the southern valley. In this 
direction also, at the foot of the hill where I was stationed, 
appeared the ancient mansion which I had just quitted, 
embellished with its woods, groves, and gardens. South- 
eastward, I saw the open ocean, bounded only by the horizon. 
The sun shone, and gilded the waves with a glittering light 
that sparkled in the most brilliant manner. More to the 
east, in continuation of that line of hills where I was placed, 
rose two downs, one beyond the other, both covered with 
sheep, and the sea just visible over the farthest of them, as a 
terminating boundary. In this point ships were seen, some 
sailing, others at anchor. Here the little river, which 
watered the southern valley, finished its course, and ran 
through meadows into the sea, in an eastward direction. 
On the north, the sea appeared like a noble river, vary- 
ing from 3 to 7 miles in breadth, between the banks 
of the- opposite coast and those of the island which I 
inhabited. Immediately underneath me was a fine woody 
district of country, diversified by many pleasing objects. 
Distant towns were visible on the opposite shore. Numbers 
of ships occupied the sheltered station which this northern 
channel afforded them. The eye roamed with delight over 
an expanse of near and remote beauties which alternately 
caught the observation, and which harmonized together, and 
produced a scene of peculiar interest. Westward, the hills 
followed each other, forming several intermediate and partial 
valleys, in a kind of undulations, like the waves of the sea, 
and, bending to the south, completed the boundary of the 
larger valley before described to the southward of the hill on 
which I sat. In many instances the hills were cultivated 
with com to their very summits, and seemed to defy the 
inclemency of the weather, which, at these heights, usually 



ABBBTON DOWN. 61 

Tenders the ground incapable of bringing forth and ripening 
the crops of grain. One hill alone — toe highest in elevation, 
and about 10 miles to the southward — was enveloped in a 
cloud, which just permitted a dim, hazy sight of a signal 
post, a lighthouse, and an ancient chantry, built on its 
summit." 

A few yards from the top of Ashey Down a road branches 
to Kyde, and there is a guide poet which says Hyde, 4 miles ; 
Brading, 2 miles ; Newport, 41 miles. A short distance farther 
another road branching to left leads down to Knighton, and 
thence to Newchurch. 

From Ashey to Messly Down the road runs between 
hedges and fields. On Messly Down are two round barrows, 
probably ancient burial grounds, and here a fine view is ob- 
tained of the north of the island, with the houses at Gowes, 
the Wootton estuary, and the Ashey, Brading, and Bembridse 
downs. An easy descent might be made to Newchurch, 
distant three-quarters of a mile, whence Sandown can be 
reached by train. On leaving Messly Down the road runs 
on the south side of Arreton Down and is joined by one from 
Newchurch. Arreton church comes in sight, half hidden by 
the trees at the foot of the down, and in a line with it, in the 
distance, is Gratcombe house, at the base of Ghillerton Down. 
The view on the right is partly obstructed by hedges and 
fields, but on the left is a fine grassy carpet of green turf 
sloping to the foot of the hill. Presently the prospect opens 
in front and includes Garisbrooke Gastle, Newport, with its 
church tower prominent in its midst ; Parkhurst forest and 
barracks, strip of the Solent, and opposite coast More to the 
right is a lovely view of the Medina estuary, with Gowes, 
Osborne, the Solent, and the coast around Southampton 
Water. Still more to the right may be observed Haven 
Street, the upper part of Eyde, and the Aldermoormill. At 
the point where are two mounds or barrows on left of road 
a fine prospect is had in the direction of Byde, with the 
Solent and Portsmouth visible beyond. Arrived at the Hare 
and Hounds Inn, where four roads meet, the traveller has the 
choice of routes. He may descend to Arreton, 1 mile distant, 
and thence either to Newport, or the south-east of the island ; 
he may continue along a road over St. George's Down ; or he 
may turn to right and proceed to Gowes, Byde, or Newport 
by Stapler's HeatL 



62 SAHDOWK 8S0TI0K. 



Sandown to Alverstone, Knighton, and JSlew- 

cliurcli. 

Alverstone, 4 miles ; Knighton, 6 miles ; Newchurch, 7} miles. 

The railway from Sandowu to Newport passes the Alver- 
stone and Newchurch stations, hut should the tourist walk, 
or travel by carriage, or on horseback, he will proceed to 
Yarbridge either by the direct road or by Yaverland. From 
Yarbridge a narrow lane is entered which passes under some 
chalk quarries along the south side of Brading Down. After 
going through the village of Adgeston a slight ascent is made, 
and a noble prospect opens in front, including the sea, the 
towns of Sandown and Shauklin, Shanklin Down, Appuldur- 
combe Down, Worsley obelisk. Hoy's monument, the Brixton, 
Chillerton, St. George's, Arreton, Messly, Ashey, and Brading 
downs, with the wide undulating country diversified by 
knolls of wood and cultivated fields. The village of New- 
church is a picturesque object on the top of a small hill 
After making a slight descent and passing Grrove farm, 
Alverstone farm and village are reached. A small bridge 
here crosses the river Yar, and close to the railway station is 
a mill, which is mentioned in Domesday Book. The neigh- 
bourhood is said to be a rich ground for the botanist, A 
footpath leads from the mill direct to Newchurch, IJ miles 
distant ; first by the side of the river, and then round a knoll 
and through a copse to the road. If the tourist proceed from 
Alverstone to Knighton he will follow a lane in the direction 
of Ashey Down by way of Kem farm. After passing through 
a hamlet, the site of the far-famed old mansion of Knighton 
is reached, but the stranger will probably be disappointed, 
for the old house has vanished, and the only traces of it are 
the entrance gates to the park, grass-covered mounds of stones, 
and old walls surrounding the gardens. Close by are a pond, 
a farmhouse, a cottage, and the engine for pumping water to 
the reservoir supplying Ryde. In the rear is the green slope 
of Ashey Down, and all around are clusters of trees, hills 
and glens, whilst in front may be seen the Shanklin Down, 
Appuldurcombe Down, and Worsley obelisk. The road 
which passes close by leads from Newchurch and over Ashey 
Down to Ryde. 

The old manor house of Knighton was once one of the most 
considerable mansions in the island. It was built in the reign 
of James I. on the site of a much older structure. Although 



EKIOHTOK. 63 

'the place is pictnresque, and suitable for a ramble, it will be 
irisited by the stianger chiefly on account of its associations. 
It was here that Leigh Eichmond had his first interview with 
Elizabeth Walbridge, '* The Dairyman's Daughter," who was 
stt that time a servant in the establishment. We gather 
fix>m the correspondence of John Wilkes, a very pleasing idea 
of the genial and refined hospitality which pervaded here, 
i¥hen, during his visits to Mr. Fitzmaurice, he often found 
assembled the leading gentry of the island, together with 
David Garrick, Mrs. Garrick, Sir Bichard Worsley, and a 
number of foreigners. 

Like many other mansions Knighton was reported to be 
haunted ; but the exact nature of the unearthly visitant is 
not stated, though it was said to intimate its whereabout by 
a noise resembling the clanking of heavy chains. In later 
times, however, this noise was confined to one room, which 
was never opened, and over its entrance was inscribed a Latin 
legend of such mystic power as to prevent the egress of the 
troubled spirit. There is a strange story current respecting 
the death of the last male of the Dilliugton family, who for 
many years possessed the manor and house of Knighton. 
Sir Tristram Dillington lost his wife and all his children in 
rapid succession, and finally he fell himself by his own hand 
through despair, leaving two sisters, who'afterwards died single. 
To prevent the forfeiture of the estate by the suicide of his 
master, the steward directly he became aware of the tragedy, 
took the horse his master usually rode, and having so ad- 
justed the saddle as to make it appear an accident had 
happened, drove it into the mill-pond close to the house. 
This countenanced a report which he immediately spread, 
that Sir Tristram, returning home late at night, inadvertently 
rode into the pond, and through the slackness of the saddle- 
girth fell from his horse and was drowned before assistance 
could be rendered. This occurred at least a century ago. It 
was easy to avoid an inquest, and the stratagem succeeded. 
The shadowy form of Sir Tristram is said to be seen sometimes 
wandering over the deserted terraced gardens of his demolished 
mansion holding his head in his hand. 

Leigh Richmond says : " The house was a large and 
venerable mansion. It stood in' a beautiful valley at the 
foot of a high hill. It was embowered in fine woods, which 
were interspersed in every direction with rising, falling, and 
swelling ground. The manor house had evidently descended 
through a long' line of ancestry from a distant period of time. 



64 8AND0WN SECTION. 

The Gothic character of its original architecture was still 
preserved in the latticed windows, adorned with carved 
divisions and pillars of stonework. Several pointed termina- 
tions also, in the construction of the roof, according to the 
custom of our forefathers, fully corresponded with the general 
features of the building. One end of the house was entirely 
clothed with the thick foliage of an immense ivy, which 
climbed beyond customary limits, and embraced a lofty 
chimney up to its very summit. Such a tree seemed con- 
genial to the walls that supported it, and conspired with the 
antique fashion of the place to carry imagination back to the 
days of our ancestors." 

Knighton is sometimes spoken of as " Knighton-Gorges." 
It was held in the reign of Henry III. by John de Morville, 
and received the appellation of " Gorges " from Kalph de 
Gorges, who married a daughter of Morville. 

Leaving the hamlet of Knighton for Newchurch, bend to the 
right ; a short distance farther, where three roads meet, turn 
to the left. After crossing the railway and stream, Newchurch 
is entered by a road which ascends steeply between high 
sandbanks, covered with ivy and ferns. Thatched cottages 
are on either hand, and on the top of the hill is the Pointer 
Inn, a small comfortable hostelry. The church, standing on 
the brow of the wooded eminence, is a conspicuous object 
from all the neighbouring country. Though one of the 
most ancient on the island, and the mother church of Byde 
and Ventnor, it bears no marks of extreme antiquity. The 
top of the tower is of wood. At the end of the north aisle is 
the burial place of the Dillington family, marked by a few 
inscriptions. 

In returning from Newchurch to Sandown the traveller 
will have a pleasant change in the route if he proceed by 
Queen's Bower and Lake village, or by Winford, Apse Heath, 
and Lake. 

Sandown to dueen's Bower. 

A short pleasant stroll may be had by taking the train 
from Sandown to Alverstone, and then walking to Queen's 
Bower, and back by the hamlet of Lake ; the distance thus 
travelled, on foot, being Si miles, and by rail 1^ miles. 

On leaving Alverstone station the road crosses the bridge 
over the river Yar, and then slightly ascends between high 
hedges and sandbanks. The Borthwood farm is seen below 



MEHBYGABDXK. 65 

y 

on the left, and opposite the road leading to the fann is the 

knoll, and slope of Queen's Bower. The tourist may follow 

a track to the top o£ the knoll, and have a good view of a 

Tvide extent of the adjacent conntry. The eye embraces the 

undulating ridge of the Chalk Downs from the Gulyer Cliffs 

to St. Oeorge's and Chillerton downs on one side, and on the 

other the St. Catherine's Down and the Alexandrian pillar, 

Appiildurcombe Down, with its shattered obelisk, and Shanklin 

jyovm. Portions of the towns of Shanklin and Sandown-are 

in sight, also a strip of the sea, and the vale encircling the 

hill on which the spectator is standing. A small house 

formerly situated here has been removed. Queen's Bower is 

said to derive its name from having been the spot where the 

last *' Lady of the Island," Isabella de Fortibus, was wont to 

station herself when she came from Carisbrooke to witness 

the chase in the forest of Borwood or Broadwood. The 

surrounding country anciently was a forest and hunting 

ground, " well stocked with red and fallow deer, heathoocks, 

and other game." In the time of Henry YIII. trees were cut 

down here for the building of Sandown fort, some of which 

were " 30 feet in length; clean timber weighing 3 and 4 tooa 

apiece.'' At present there is scarcely a tree .to be found. A 

road leads hence to Newchurch. 

The tourist may descend to Borthwood &rm and return to 
Sandown by a footpath which passes near the waterworks 
by Black Pan Conmion ; or he may continue on the road by 
the hamlet of Borthwood, and a small Methodist chapel to 
the village of Lake,' passing the Lee and Merrygarden farms : 
the latter is a pleasant-looking place, said to have been -once 
famous for its cherry gardens, hence its name from the 
French, meriae — ^wUd cherry. 



( 66 ) 



SHANKLIN SECTION. 



SHANKLIN. 



Shanklin is rapidly increasing, and runs a hard race with 
its prosperous neighbour Sandown. There seems every pro- 
bability that at no very remote date the two places will he 
joined, and form one large town, stretching along the difb 
aronnd the bay from Shanklin Down to Bembridge Down. 
Shanklin may claim precedence on the score of age, for it was 
a favourite resort when Sandown was unknown. A chaly- 
beate spring here was much frequented in the time of 
Charles IL, and the place waa a fasmonable resort We next 
read of it as bein^ one of the strongholds of Jacobitism in the 
Isle of Wight. The old summer-house in the Manor House 
garden is still pointed out as that in which meetings of the 
adherents of the exiled royal family used to be held, and at 
which, with the old squire of Shanklin at their head, the 
island gentlemen would drink the health of Ghai'les Edward 
on bended knee. Afterwards Shanklin appears for a time to 
have lost its popularity, but towards the end of the last cen- 
tury it began to regain esteem, and was a favourite resort for 
Oxford reading parties. Bishops Hampden and Hinds passed 
the long vacation of 1812 here, '* occupied," writes the former, 
" with our books the greater part of every day, and having 
no recreation beyond a t§te-^-tSte walk along the seashore; 
never even making an excursion into other parts of the 
attractive scenery of the island." They had been preceded 
by their friend, Archbishop Whateley, who read here for his 
Oriel Fellowship. Keats was here in 1819, and during his 
stay he composed his fine poem of *' Lamia," and the play of 
" Otho the Great" Writing to a friend, he spoke of Shanklin 
as a '^ most beautiful place." Another author describes it in 
the year 1790 as an Utopia of friendship and mutual goodwill 
'* The inhabitants were like one large &mily ; ill nature was not 
known among them ; obliging in the extreme, they seemed to be 



BHANELIN. 67 

ppiest when their visitants were best pleased. The tem- 
porary absence of a neighbour cansed a shade of gloom, and 
iiis return a ray of sunshine ; the sickness or misfortune of 
yjoiB was felt by sympathy through the whole body. The 
haldt of living among fine scenery had given a taste and an 
eye f(»r the picturesque to the lowest classes, for the place 
^iras celebrated for its retired cottages beautifully adorned with 
roaeSy honeysuckles, and other flowering shrubs flotmshing 
in the utmost luxuriance." Lord Jeffrey was a visitor in 1846, 
tiie Tear before his death, and he says : ** This village is very 
small and scattery, all mixed up with trees, and lying 
axaongst sweet airy falls and swelLs of ground, which finally 
rise up behind to breezy downs 800 feet high, and sink down 
in front to the edge of the varying cliffs which overhang a 
pretty beach of fine sand, and are approachable by a very 
striking wooded ravine which they call the Chine." 

The old part of the town, with its Manor House, thatched 
cx>ttages, homely hotels, and pleasant little church, situated 
at the base of a high down, and close to a tiny wooded ravine,, 
presents a picturesque appearance; quite a contrast to the 
modem additions which stretch in ^e direction of the railway 
station. At a comer of the roads in front of the old houses, 
close to .where a shady lane leads to the chine, there is a 
TUBtic fountain, ornamented with a small shield on which are 
designed the English and American flags, and beariug the 
following lines, written by longfellow, when he was on a 
visit to ShankUn in 1868 : 

** traveller, stay thy weary feet j 
Drink of this fountain, pare and sweet ; 

It flows for rich and poor the same ; 
Then go thy way, remembering still 
The wayside well beneath the hill, 

The cup of water in His name."^ 

The picturesque old church has undergone alterations 
which make the tracing of the ancient building difficult. It 
was dedicated to St. Blaize, and is denominated as such in old 
documents, and also as the chapel of St. John the Baptist. 
It is a manorial chapel, built by one of the family of Lisle, 
of Wootton, through whom it has passed to the present pro- 
prietor of Shanklin, by direct inheritance from the heiress of 
the elder branch of that family. The church contains memo- 
rial of the Fopham and White families. The royal arms 
are cozious, of the date of Charles I. The old oak chest is 

F 2 



68 SHAKKUK sxonoir. 

worthy of notice, with the initials T. S., and date 1512. 
Silkstead was the last Prior of Winchester, 'and the chest 
became by accident the property of one of the Pophams, the 
old Jacomte squire, who brought it to Shanklin from Wb- 
Chester. Bnrials of members of the proprietor's family were 
made within the church towards the middle of the lust 
century, and about eighteen years ago interments m'ere &sl 
allowed around the church. Previously the mother church 
of Brading was the burial place of the town. 

On the shore, to the west of the chine, and directly under 
high vertical cliffs, is the Esplanade, a wide promenade 
and carriage drive, protected by a sea-wall about 600 yards 
in length, with a row of houses, an hotel, a bazaar, and the 
chalybeate spring. 

Places ov Wobship. 

St. John the Baptist. Wesleyan Chapel. 

St. Saviour's on the diff. Bible Christian Chapel, 

Independent Chapel. St. Paul's, Gratten. 

HOTEIB. 

Hollier^s Hotel. Clarendon HoteL 

Daish's Hotel. Madeira Hotel. 

Hinton's Spa Hotel, on the shore. Marine Hotel. 

Baths. 
Moorman's Baths. Sampson's Baths. 



flhanlclin Chine. 



The word chine, of very common use in the Isle of Wigjat 
and the south-west coast of Hampshire and Dorsetshire, is 
derived from the Anglo-Saxon "Cine," or "Cyne," a cleft; 
and is the name given to deep fissures or gullies scooped out 
of the soft strata of the clif& by the action of rumiiDg 
water. The verb "to chine" is used by Spenser in the 
• Faerie Queene,' b. iv., c. 6 : 

" Where biting deepe, so deadly it imprest 
That quite it chjn^ his backe behind the sell.'' 

Also by Dryden : j 

« He that in his day di/j chine the long-rib'd Apennine.'* 



. 8HANXLIX OHlNJk 69 

The cliines in the island have reoeived sncli exaggerated 

praise that most visitors who have had their expectations 

raised by these glowing accounts will not find them realized, 

especially if they are acquainted with the wild gullies and 

rocks of mountainous districts. The Shanklin Omne is the 

most beautiful of any on the island. It is a deep ravine 

about a quarter of a mile in length, and thickly clothed with 

trees, and a luxuriant growth of shrubs, ferns, and mosses, 

from the banks of a tiny rill to the tops of the vertical cliffs 

of sandstone which tower to the height of more than 

200 feet. The glen, at the mouth, by the seashore, is 300 feet 

wide, and it gradusdly decreases in breadth until it terminates 

in an extremely narrow fissure, down which the rill falls 

about 30 feet, where, after heavy rains, it ionnB a pleasing 

.cascade, but at other times the fall hardly deserves the name. 

The chine is rented by the owners of the inn picturesquely 

perched on the eastern side of the ravine near the shore, and 

is guarded at either end by locked gates, where, during the 

summ^, persons attend who admit visitc^ and then allow 

them to wander alone and make their exit at either gate. No 

stated charge is made, but the stranger generally gives a 

gratuity when leaving. During the winter the key may be 

obtained at the inn. &e path l^s by the side of the winding 

streamlet, which it crosses here and there by rustic bridges. 

At the head of the chine stands the Tower House, a pio* 

turesque gabled mansion, which peers above the trees, and 

adds greatly to the view, as seen from below. At the mouth 

of the ravine are fine sands and high cliffs ; also a marine 

bathing house, bathing machines, and the esplanade. 

Fronde's 'History,' vol. iv. p. 431, gives an account of a 

skirmish with a party of Frenchmen who landed at Shai^lin 

Chine, in 1545. He says: ''On leaving St. Helens the 

commander, D'Annehault, went round with the fleet into 

Shanklin Bay, where he sent his boats to fill their casks at 

the rivulet which runs down the chine. The stream was 

small, the task was tedious, and the Chevalier d'Eulx, who, 

with a few companions, was appointed to guard the watering 

parties, seeing no si^is of danger, wandered inland, attended 

by some of his men, to the top of the high down adjoining. 

The English, who had been engaged with the other detach* 

ments two days before, had kept on the hills, watching 

the motions of the fleet. The chevalier was caught in an 

ambuscade, and, after defending himself like a hero, he was 

killed, with most of his followers." 



70 SSAHKLOr SIOTIOK. 

Leigli Biclimond, in the 'Young Cottager/ thus speaks of 
the chine : " I rode in the afternoon to a favourite spot where 
I sometimes indulged in solitary meditation. It was a place 
well suited for such a purpose. In the widely sweeping 
curve of a beautiful bay (Sandown Bay) there is a kind of 
chasm or opening in one of the lofty cliffs which bound it 
This produces a very romantic and striking effect. The 
steep-descending sides of this opening in the cliff are covered 
\vith trees, bushes, wild flowers, fern, wonnwood, and many 
other herbs, here and there contrasted with bold masses d 
rock or brown earth. In the higher part of one of these 
declivities two or three picturesque cottages are fixed, and 
seem half suspended in the air. From the upper extr^ty 
of this great fissure or opening in the cliff a small stream 
of water enters by a cascade, flows through the bottom, 
winding in a varied course of about a quarter of a mile in 
length, and then runs into the sea across a smooth expanse of 
firm, hard sand, at the lower extremity of the chasm. At 
this point the sides of the woody banks are very lofty, and, 
to a spectator from the bottom, exhibit a mixture of the 
grand and beautiful not often exceeded. Near the month oi 
this opening was a little hollow recess, or cave, in the clif, 
firom whence, on one hand, I could see the above-descrihed 
romantic scene ; on the other, a long train of perpendicular 
cliffs, terminating in a bold and well-shaped promontory, 
which closed the bay at one end, while a conspicuous white 
cliff stood directly opposite, about four miles distant, at the 
jfarther point of the bay. The shore, between the different 
cliffs and the edge of the waves, was in some parts covered 
with stones and shingle, in some with firm hard sand, and in 
others with irregular heaps of little rocks fringed with sea- 
weed, and ornamented with small yellow shells. The cliffs 
themselves were diversified with strata of vanously-colonred 
earth, black, yellow, brown, and orange. The effects of iron 
ore, producing very manifest changes of hue, were everywhere 
seen in trickling drops and streamlets down the sides. The 
huts in which the fishermen kept their^ baskets, nets, boats, 
and other implements, occupied a few' retired spots on the 
shore. The open sea, in full magnificence, oocupied the 
centre of the prospect ; bounded, indeed, in one small part, 
by a very distant shore, on the rising ascent from which the 
rays of the sun rendered visible a cathedral church, with 
its towering spire, at near 30 miles distance. Everywhere 
else the sea beyond was limited only by the sky. A ftigate 



JLUOOOMBK CHINS. 71 

stftnding into the bay, not very far from my lecees; 

ofclieT vessels of every size, sailing in many directions, varied 

the scene, and furnished matter for a tliousuid sources of 

oontemplation. At my feet the little rivulet, gently rippling 

over pebbles, soon mingled with the sand, and was lost in the 

"warters of the mighty ocean. The murmuring of the waves, 

as the tide ebbed or flowed, on the sand ; their dashing against 

soiii.e more distant rocks, which were covered fantastically 

'With seaweed and shells ; seabirds floating in the air aloft, or 

occasionally screaming from the holes in the cliffs ; the hum 

of human voices in the ships and boats, borne along the 

'water; all these sounds served to promote, rather than 

interrupt, meditation. They were soothingly blended 

together, and entered the ear in a kind of natural harmony. 

.... I quitted my retreat in the cliff with some reluctance, 

and walked up by a steep pathway, that winded through the 

trees and shrubs on the sides of one of the precipices. At 

every step the extent of prospect enlarged, and acquired a 

new and varying character, by being seen through the trees 

on each side. Climbing up a kind of rude, inartificial set of 

stone stairs in the bank, I passed by the singularly situated 

cottages which I had viewed from beneath, received and 

returned the evening salutation of the inhabitants, sitting at 

their doors, and just come home from labour, and then arrived 

at the top of the precipice, where there is a noble prospect in 

every direction." 

Luccombe Chine. 

Lucoombe Chine is situated li miles west of Shanklin, 
and may be reached either by the shore or the cliffs. The 
best plan is to go one way and return by the other. 

From the mouth of Shanklin Chine, by the sands, the 
distance does not much exceed a mile. The cliffs the whole 
way are very high and quite perpendicular, presenting an 
aspect wild and frowning. Care must be taken to note the 
state of the tide, for at high water it is impossible to pass the 
Horse and Yellow Ledge points. Lovely retrospective views 
are had of the Sandown Bay, and the Culver Cliffs. When 
Luccombe Bay is reached it is found to be a wild and 
secluded place, with two or three flshermen^s cottages perched 
at the west side, on a loamy ledge, a few yards above the 
sands, and at the mouth of the chine. 

If the tourist walk from Shanklin by the cliffiB he will turn 



72 8HANELIN SIOTlOir. 

to the left out of the Yentnor road a few yards beyond 
Hollier'8 Hotel, or gain the same point from the shore by a 
path which winds up the fftoe of the cliffs a few yards west 
of Shanklin Chine. The road ascends steeply, and commands 
a fine view of Shanklin and the shore past Sandown to the 
Calver Oliffs, with the Bembridge, Braoing, Ashey, Mesdy, 
and Arreton downs, and the intervening level country. On 
leaving the houses the path crosses through fields a few yards 
from the cliffs, and when Shanklin is lost to view a descent is 
at once made to the cottages at the head of Luccombe Chine. 
A path leads thence down the east side of the gully to the 
shore. 

Luccombe Chine is a deep cleft or coombe, about 100 yards 
broad at its mouth, and thence gradually narrowing and 
stretching 200 yards inland, scooped out of the sandstone- 
cliffs by &e constant action of a tiny rill which forms one or 
two miniature cascades. The chSa rise steeply from the 
streamlet, and are partly covered with grass, ferns, shrubs, 
and stunted trees, which are weather-beaten and festooned by 
ivy. Near the mouth of the chine are, as we have already 
mentioned, two or three fishermen's huts, whilst at the head 
is a villa, with pleasant winding paths leading throi^h the 
private ^unds on the west side of the ravine. 

Shanklin to Cook's Castle, and ShankliTi Bown. 

This is the most pleasant inland walk in the vicinity of 
Shanklin. The path rises rapidly from the churchyud, and 
passes through one or two fields to a cluster of trees, where a 
charming scene is spread to view. Perhaps in no other part 
of the island can such an extensive and pleasing prospect be 
obtained with so little labour. Close below the spectator are 
the church, the houses, and the well-timbered grounds of the 
old part of Shanklin, the modem portion stretching away 
inland to the railway station. Farther distant, on the edge 
of the white-crested waves, is Sandown, and beyond are the 
Culver Cliffs and the Bembridge Down, its fort and monu- 
ment ; whilst to the left of the down are Brading Haven, St. 
Helens, the sea, and the opposite coast. Then come, the 
Brading, Ashey, Messly, and Arreton downs, with a wide 
plain between them and the spectator. 

The path runs close behind trees and brushwood which 
clothe the precipitous inland cliff at the eastern end of the 
Shanklin range of downs. The top of the down might be 



SHANELm DOWN AND OOOK's OASTLX. 73 

gained in a few minutes by striking up the green slope on the 
left, and from this height a view is unfolded of Sandown Bay 
and the Culver Clifis, the Solent, and the opposite coast, 
forming a scene surpassingly grand and beautiful. When on 
the summit the traveller may proceed in any direction, either 
on the left to Luccombe, strai^t forward to Bonchurch and 
Ventnor, or on the right to St. Martin's Down, passing near 
a reservoir, to Wroxall and Appuldurcombe. The views are 
fine in every direction, and constantly varying in aspect In 
Edition to what has been already mentioned there are seen 
the St. Catherine's Down, the Freshwater Cliffs, and the high 
central range of downs stretching from the Needles across the 
whole length of the island to Bembridge, Carisbrooke Castle, 
Osborne towers, the houses of Upper Hyde, and the wide 
level valley in which are seen the churches of Gkxlshill, 
Newchurch, and Arreton. From St. Martin's Down the 
descent may be made to Cook's Castle. 

Those who continue on the path all the way from Shanklin 
will reach Cook's Castle by bending to the right soon after 
the Worsley obelisk comes in sight, and then entering a 
wood, by a stile at the south-east corner. The castle is 
nothing more than a modem turreted tower, said to have 
been built in order to enrich the view from the windows at 
Appuldurcombe house. It is deeply embowered in trees 
and is a &vourite place of resort for picnic parties. A person 
lives on the spot, who, for a small remuneration, is glad to 
supply hot water, &c. There are two small guns which were 
brought here from the late Earl of Yarborough's yacht. Thq 
visitor is allowed to ascend to the top of the tower, where he 
will obtain an extensive prospect ; including the wide valley 
containing the churches of Godshill, Newchurch, and Arre- 
ton ; the towns of Shanklin and Sandown, a wide extent of 
sea, Brading Haven, the Solent, and the opposite coast. The 
central range of chalk downs is seen stretching from Bem- 
bridge to the High Down and Freshwater Clils. Near at 
hand are Appuldurcombe house and down, Worsley obelisk, 
and in the distance the ruins of Carisbrooke and the towers of 
Osborne house. 

From Cook's Castle a descent may be made to Wroxall 
railway station, or Shanklin may be reached by way of Apse 
Beach cottages and Cliff farm, which are situated below the 
trees at the base of the inland cli£ 



74 BHANEUN SXOnOK. 



Shanklin to Apse, America, Ninliam, and 

Lang^ard. 

This 18 an agreeable country walk of 3 or 4 miles^ and may 
be lengthened or shortened at pleasure. Crossing the railway 
by the road a few yards to the west of the station the Hide 
farm is passed, and presently there is seen on the right a 
secluded dell, called Tinker's Lane, a delicious shady retreat, 
along which the traveller may wander through the America 
wooSa to Ninham. Or he may reach the latter place by 
following the road to the old gabled manor house of Apse 
farm, and thence through the coppice by a footpath. One 
writer tells us : '* Round the old manor house of Apse in April 
and May the profusion of wild flowers makes this one of the 
most attractive spots in the neighbourhood of Yentnor and 
Shanklin. Primroses, wood-anemones, hyacinths, violets, 
wood-sponge, purple orchis, wake-robin, and other bright and 
sweet spring flowers, edged in by fern banks and shelving 
thickets, all combine to enhance the charms of the beautifni 
scenery in which it is placed." From Ninham a road 
conducts to Languard, an ancient manor house, now simply a 
farmhouse, but me broken avenue of venerable yews, and the 
remains of walls around the grounds indicate that it was a 
place of considerable importance. The main road is entered 
at Merrygarden, and the traveller may return to Shanklin by 
Lake village, or continue to Sandown, or to Queen's Bower 
and Alverstone. See page 64. 



( 76 ) 



VENTNOB SECTION. 



YEVTVOS. 

Yektnob is one of the most] popular and best-known 
watering-places in the soath of Ekiglfuid, and although it has 
many rivals it is likely to retain a high position in public 
favoar. Its situation is most romantic, the houses being 
built one above another in hanging terraces on shelves of 
rtx^k which gradually rise from a rugged shore to the steep 
smooth side of a high chalk down. Fifty years ago it was 
one of the smallest of fishing hamlets. A group of low- 
thatched cottages on the shore of the cove ; a picturesque 
mill hanging on the steep cliff above, down which the 
millstream duhed in a pretty cascade; a little thatched 
wayside inn, still known as the Crab and Lobster, which 
has lately been greatly enlarged ; and a humble dwdling or 
two haid by, formed the whole of Yentnor. In 1871 it 
contained a population of 4841 (at present nearer 6000), 
and now it claims to be considered the metropolis of tibe 
Underdiff. It is often denominated the " English Idadeiniy'* 
owing to the curative power of its genial climate in pulmonary 
diseases. It is more fortunate than most places of seaside 
resort in having two seasons during the year, the regular 
tourists visiting it in summer, and consumptive patients 
resorting to it chiefly during the winter montns. The late 
distinguished physician. Sir James Clark, was the first who 
called public attention to the many advantages of the spot. 
In his treatise on the Influence of Climate, &c., he says: 
** From the variety which the Isle of Wight presents in point 
of elevation, soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of 
its hills and shores, it possesses several peculiarities of climate 
and position that render it a highly favourable residence for 
invalids throughout the year. The part most recommended 
is that denominated the Undercliff, on the south-east coast, 
about 6 miles in length, and from a quarter to half a mile in 
broidth. The whole tract is singularly well protected from 
the cold, and it would be difficult to find in any nort> — 



76 VSNtlfOB fiECfriOK. 

ooantry a district of equal extent and variety of snrfisu^— and 
it may be added, of equal beauty in point of scenery — eo 
completely screened from the cutting N.E. winds of the 
spring on the one hand, and from the boisterous southerly 
gales of the autumn and winter on the other. It is a matter 
of surprise to me, after having fally examined that favoured 
spot, that the advantages it possesses in so eminent a degree, 
in point of shelter and position, should have been so long 
overlooked in a country like this, whose inhabitants during 
the last century have been traversing half the globe in search 
of climate. The phy^cal structure of this singular district 
has been carefully investigated and described by the geologist, 
and the beauties of its scenery have been often dwelt upon by 
the tourist ; but its far more important qualities as a winter 
residence for the delicate invalid seem scarcely to have 
attracted attention, even from the medical philosopher. 
Nothing alon^ the south coast will bear a comparison with it, 
and Torquay is the only place on the south-west coast which 
will do so. With a temperature nearly the same, the climate 
of Torquay will be softer, more humid, and relaxing, while 
that of the Undercliff will prove drier, somewhat sharper, and 
more bracing," 

Yentnor, being a modem town, without a history, cannot 
boast of any ancient ruins, and it possesses few buUdings of 
architectiual beauty. The shops, however, are good, and 
there are the usual libraries, bazaars, and billiard rooms for 
the amusements of the visitor. The two churches, with 
their tall spires, are pleasing objects in the landscape from 
many points of view. St. Catherine's, standing at the west 
end of the town, was erected in 1837 at the sole expense of 
the late J. Hambrough, Esq., of Steephill Castle, who also 
provided an endowment and built l^e parsonage. Holy 
Trinity, at the east end of the town, was founded in 1861 at 
the cost of an unknown benefactor, on condition that the 
seats should be free, and a daily service performed. In 1848 
a wide and agreeable esplanade was constructed on the sea- 
beach in the cove. Before the railway was opened a small 
pier and harbour were made ; and for a time steamers came 
here direct, but the project did not answer the expectations 
of its promoters. The harbour having been seriously damaged 
by a storm in the spring of 1866, the remainder of the 
materials was sold, and a new pier erected in 1871, which 
is a favourite promenade. The charge for admittance is 2d, 
each person. Periodical tickets are also issued. A band of 
music usually plays at the end of the pier during the summer 



monihs. Should the tourist be so fortunate as to visit the 
spot on a beautiful moonlight night, he will be entranced by 
the lovely,' fairy-like scene, the lights in the houses dotted on 
every hand, nom the shpre high up the side of the lofty 
down, having a charming effect. The beach consists of a 
very fine shingle, among which are sometimes found small 
fragments' of transparent quartz, susceptible of a fine polish, 
known as VerUnor diamonds. There is a supply of bathing 
machines, and strangers ought not to bathe here without the 
knowledge of the attendants, for the back draught is some- 
times strong enough to carry persons off their legs, and place 
them in considerable periL 

Pleasure boats and fishing boats can always be hired on the 
beach, at the following cha]^ : sailing boat, 2«. 6d, per hour ; 
rowing boat, without man, 1«. per hour, with man. Is, Qd. per 
hour. Special arrangements are. made for long excursions. 
The railway station is high up the side of the down, and more 
than a quarter of a mile from the centre of the town. The 
ascent is very steep. Omnibuses from the different hotels 
meet every train. Coaches leave daily for Black Oang, and, 
during summer, for Freshwater, Garisbrooke, &c. There is a 
good supply of carriages and saddle-horses to be had in the 
town. The charges are, for carriage, 2s, 6d, per hour; 
saddle-horses, 2s, 6d, per hour. Also, arrangements are 
made for parties taking waggonettes for the day, or otherwise, 
at reduced fares. 

Places of Wobship. 

Parish Chnrch, St. Catherine's .. Church Street. 

Trinity Church Trinity Road. 

Congregational Chapel High Street. 

Wesleyan Chapel High Street. 

Baptist Chapel MiU Street. 

Primitive Methodist Chapel .. .. Albert Street. 

Bible Christian Chapel St. Catherine's Street* 

Roman Catholic Church .. .. Trinity Road. 

Royal National Hospital Church .. Steephill Road. 

HOTEIS. 

Royal Hotel Belgrave Road. 

Marine Hotel.. Belgrave Road. 

Esplanade Hotel Esplanade. 

Crab and Lobster Hotel .. .. Spring Hill. 

Commercial Hotel High Street. 

Rajner's Temperance Hotel .. .. Victoria Street. 

-Qlobeinn High Street. 

Crown Inn .« .. High Street. 

Queen's Hotel Esplanade. 



78 TBxnKOB sadnoxr. 

PUBLIO BuiLDINaS. 

Literary and Scientific Institution, High Street* * 
Undercliff Skating Rink, Hambrongh Road. 
Rifle Drill Hall, South Street 
Yentnor Sanatorium, Madeira Road. 
Victoria Hall Auction Mart, High Street. 
London City Mission Seaside Home, Station Road« 
Hampshire Banking Company, Church Street. 
National Schools, iibert Street. 
Post Office, High Street, corner of Spring Hill. 
Literary Institute, Albert Street. 

Letters delivered at 7 A.M. and 2.30 P.M. 
„ forwarded at 11.30 iuM. and 6.45 P.M. 



Bonchmrch. 

The village of Bonchnrch is situated on the Undercliff, 
1 mile to the east of Yentnor, but houses now line the road 
between the two places, so that they appear like one. Close 
behind the village rises the St. Boniface Down, presenting a 
bold vertical cliff, the horizontal layers of sandstone being^ 
weathered into picturesque ledges which are richly clothed 
with moss and ivy. Between the down and the sea, about a 
quarter of a mile, the ground is thickly wooded, and the 
houses peer above the trees, being " without exception in the 
very style a poet would have imagined, and a painter de- 
signed. In the beautiful gardens which environ the man- 
sions, and in almost every nook and comer around the village, 
there is a luxuriant growth of the myrtle and fuchsia, of Soe 
verbena and clianthus, and of various other exotic plants. Li 
1828 Sterling characterized the place as ^ the best possible 
earthly fairyknd, combining all the varied and fanciful beauty 
of enchantment, with the highest degree of domestic com- 
fortable reality." Although tiie low thatched cottages, and 
much that was picturesque in Sterling's time have vanished 
and made way for ele^ht buildings, the stranger will proba- 
bly still consider the village of Bonchurch unsurpassed in love- 
liness by any other on the island, and will be ready to think 
that perhaps Dr. Arnold was right in terming it *' the most 
beautiful place on the sea coast on this side Genoa." 

The village has been the permanent or occasional residence 
of many persons of literary celebrity. The Rev. WilHam 
Adams, the author of * The Shadow of the Cross,' • The Old 
Man's Home,' * The Distant Hills/ &c.» resided at Winter- 



BONOHUBOH. 79 

l>oTime, immediately behind the old church. He removed 
from Oxford to Bonchm-ch in a consumptive state in 1842, 
ajid daring his brief residence endeared himself to all its 
Inhabitants, who used to speak of him as the '' good gentle- 
xnan." He died January 17th, 1848, at the age of thirty^ 
tiire& Miss ^Elizabeth Bewell, so well known by her tales^ 
•Amy Herbert,' 'Ursula,* *Laneton Parsonage,' *The Ex- 
perience of life,' &c., resides at Ashcliff, and is still busy with 
lier pen. She is the daughter of a solicitor of Newport, and 
sister of the Bev. William Sewell, Vicar of St. Nicholas, 
Carisbrooke, and of Dr. James E. Sewell, the Warden of New 
College, Oxford. Her writings have exercised a beneficial in-* 
^uence over the minds and hearts of the young, not here only,, 
but in America, and wherever the English language is known. 
Underrock was the home of Mr. Edmund Feel, whose poem, 
' The Fair Island,' ill\istrates the scenery and traditions of the 
Isle of Wight. Uppermount was the abode of the Bev. James 
White, a writer in ' Blackwood's Magazine,' the fat contribu- 
tor of * Punch,' and the author of the ' King of the Commons,' 
' The Eighteen Christian Centuries,' ' History of France,' &o. 
Mr. Tennyson, long before he established himself at Fresh- 
water, was a constant guest at Mr. White's hospitable house, 
and once when at Bonchurch the laureate's old hat was seized 
and cut up into memorials by some enthusiastic young ladies 
of tiie neighbourhood. Through Mr. White's means too the 
village of Bonchurch was made familiar with Leech, and 
Bichard Doyle, and Thackeray, and numerous other artists 
and literary men of the day, including Charles Dickens, 
whose morning shower-bath whilst he was here was often 
taken under the little sparkling waterfall,, that leaps from 
the diff below the old church. Professor Wilson (Chris- 
topher North) is said also to have once visited Mr. White. 
Here it is well to mention that John Sterling, Carlyle's 
' John Sterling,' spent the last months of his life at Hill Side, 
Ventnor. 

John Sterling and the Bev. William Adams are both buried 
in the secluded graveyard of the old church of Bonchurch, 
picturesquely seated on the sea cliffs, shaded by trees, and 
within hearing of the unceasing murmurs of the ocean. The 
grave of the author of ' The Shadow of the Cross ' is 
covered with a coffin-shaped stone, and a cross of iron placed 
horizontally, so Ihat the shadow is cast upon it, in allusion to 
his pathetic allegory. Sterling's tombstone consists of a plain 
slab with the inscription, " John Sterling, died at Yentnor, 



80 YENZNOB fiXOTtOK. 

18th September, 1844, aged 38." Carlyle says of him : ** A 
more perfectly transparent soul I have never known. . . . 
Here, visible to myself for some while, was a brilliant hnman 
presence, distinguishable, honourable, and lovable, amid tbe 
dim common population ; among the million little beautifol, 
once more a ocAutiful human soul, whom I, among others, 
recognized, and lovingly walked with, while the years and tbe 
hours were . . • . A man of infinite susceptibility, who caught 
everywhere, more than others, the colour of the element he 
lived in, the infection of all that was or appeared honourable^ 
beautiful, and manful in the tendencies of his time ; whose 
history therefore is, beyond others, emblematic of his time. 
• ... He sleeps now in the little burying ground of Boa- 
church ; bright, ever young in the memory of others that 
must grow old ; and was honourably released from his toils 
before the hottest of the day." 

The church, dedicated to St. Boniface, Archbishop of Mentz, 
hence the name Bonchurch, is a small ancient building, partly 
covered with ivy. It is now pewless, and is only used for 
burials. In the interior are the remains of mural paintings, 
supposed to represent the Last Judgment ; and on the altar 
there is a cross carved in black oak, purchased and placed 
there a few years ago — some say it was brought from the 
Norman Abbey of Lire. The adjoining cove, called Monks' 
Bay, from the tradition of the monks of Lire having naed it 
as a landing place when visiting their, possessions on the 
island, or, as some say, from St. Boniface having landed there, 
is of some historical interest. Here, according to Sir J. 
Oglauder, a landing was effected by the French during their 
attempted invasion in 1545, and it is thus described by 
Froude : ** M. de Thais, landing without resistance, advanoei 
into the island to reconnoitre. He went forward till he had 
entangled his party in a glen surrounded by thickets, and 
here he was checked by a shower of arrows from invisible 
hands. The English, few in number, but on their own ground, 
hovered about him, giving way when they were attacked, bat 
hanging on his skirts, and pouring death into his ranks from 
their silent bows, till prudence warned him to withdraw to tbe 
open sands." Oglander, however, asserts that the commiander 
of the English force, when his men gave way, being short and 
fat, and unable to mount the steep slopes with sufficient speed, 
fell into the enemy's hands, and was carried on bosurd their 
vessel, where he died of the plague, which sj^eedily broke out 
among the number cooped up in the ill-ventdated hold. 



BONOHUBOH. 81 

The landing of Charles d'EuIx for a stipply of fresh water, 
stated by Froude to have occurred at Shanklin Chine, took 
place, aooording to the same authority, at Bonchurch, where 
the ground is equally well fitted for the ambuscade in which 
he was caught, and, with most of his party, slain. Oglander 
asserts also that the chevalier was buried in the churchyard 
at Bonchurch. 

The new church of Bonchurch, erected in 1847-48, is a 
plain but pleasing edifice in the Norman style. The foundar 
tion stcme was laid by the Bev. William Adams, and the site 
was given by the Bev. James White. The west and transept 
windows contain some good ancient stained glass, the gift of 
the Rev. W. Sewell, D.D. The font is a memorial of the 
Bev. W. Adams. The churchyard is generally considered 
one of the loveliest in England. The white crosses, bright 
flowers, and grey masses of rock, form so exquisite a picture, 
that, in Sh^ley's words, "it might make one in love with 
death to think one would be buried in so sweet a place." It 
is much to be regretted that the inconsiderate conduct of 
tourists has led to the closing of the gates of this cemetery. 

Close above the church is the Bonchurch Hotel, a pleasant, 
comfortable house, commanding in front a view of the sea, 
and at the back are secluded gi'ounds which reach to the 
inland cliff, where an ascent may be made to the down by 
rough stone steps. From the hotel a path leads in the 
direction of Yentnor, and descends by a flight of one hundred 
and one steps to the high road near the pond. This sheet of 
water was formed a few years ago, from a swamp where willows 
were cultivated for the purpose of supplying the fishermen 
with the materials of the crabpots. The view here forms a 
beautiful picture, the road being over-arched by stately elms, 
and the overhanging bank on the opposite side of the tiny 
lake being luxurianUy clothed with trees and shrubs, whilst 
in the water are swans, which add a charm to the scene. 
Near the pond is a drinking fountain in memory of the late 
Captain Huish. 

Between the pond and Ventnor, in the lovely grounds of 
Maples, is the Pulpit rock, a rugged mass holdly jutting from 
the inland cliff, and surmounted by a rustic wooden cross. 
It is a striking object in most of the views of Bonchurch, and 
it commands a charming prospect. It was formerly called 
Shakspeare rock, and the present name was given to it and the 
cross erected in the early part of this century by Sir W. 
Heatheote and the Hon. and Eev. Arthur Fercival when 



82 YEirrNOB section. 

passing a vacation here. At the other end of Bonchnrch, in 
the grounds of Undermount, is another isolated mass known 
as the Flagstaff rock, or, from the former owner of the j^opertj, 
Hadfield's lookout. 

At Bonchurch was horn one of our naval heroes. Admiral 
Sir Thomas Hohson. He was a poor orphan hoy, apprenticed 
hy the parish to a tailor at Niton. One day, while seated oq 
his master's shophoard, a squadron of men-of-war was seen 
cruising near, and the lad, in company with many of the 
villagers, ran down to the heach to view the spectacla In a 
moment of enthusiasm he jumped into a hoat, rowed towards 
the admiral's ship, and was received on hoard as a volunteer. 
His hat, and the small hoat which he had cast adrift, having 
heeu washed on shore, it was helieved hy those on land that 
he had heen drowned. But the youth was now upon the 
element, and in the line of life that exactly accorded with the 
native hias of his mind ; and the very next day he was des- 
tined to exhihit his true character. The squadron fell in 
with a French fleet ; an engagement took place, in which for 
some time the victory appeared douhtful ; and Hobson, aft«r 
bearing cheerful share in two hours* hard fighting, began to 
grow impatient, and asked a sailor near him for what object 
the two fleets were contending. Being told that the action 
must last till the white rag at the enemy's masthead was 
struck, he exclaimed, ** Oh ! if that's all, I'll see what I can 
do." At this moment the ships of the admirals being closely 
engaged and shrouded by smoke, the daring youth was seized 
with the extraordinary resolution to attempt hauling down 
the enemy's flag with his own hands. Accordingly, he 
climbed the shrouds, walked across the mainyard, and un- 
perceived gained that of the French admiral ; when, mounting 
with the utmost celerity to the main top-gallant masthead, 
carried ofif the French flag. The disappearance of the flag 
was soon noticed ; the British tars shouted " Victory," the 
French crew were thrown into confusion, and forsook their 
guns ; and, before their officers could succeed in their attempts 
to rally them, the English sailors boarded, and became trium- 

Shant. At this juncture Hobson descended to the main- 
eck from the shrouds, with the French flag wound round 
his arm, to the astonishment of all who beheld him. He 
was ordered to the quarterdeck, where some of the officers 
seemed disposed to view with more indignation than applause 
this very irregular method of " striking the flag." But the 
admiral, entertaining different notions of the exploit, imme- 



ADMIBAL HOBSOK. 88 

diately promoted its author, and he speedily rose in the service, 
becoming a lieutenant in 1672, a captain in 1678, and hoisting 
his admiral's pennant on board the ' Breda ' in 1689, being 
nicknamed " Admiral Snip " by those who knew his history. 
He ivas a gallant fellow, esteemed by James II., promoted by 
\7illiam, and knighted by Anne. In triumphs he heightened 
the glory of his country, in reverses he saved her from dis- 
grace ; and finally, in 1702, in the ship ' Torbay,' alone and 
unsupported, amid the fire from the French and Spanish ships, 
broke the f&mous Vigo Boom. On this occasion a fireship 
was sent against him, but, having been prepared hastily, 
many barrels of snuff had been left on board, which, when 
she blew up, smothered the flames, and saved the gallant 
admiral. On returning home from this exploit he was 
knighted, and retired from the service, and was returned M.P. 
for !Newtown in 1705. None of those who had known the 
poor 'prentice boy at Niton, had any idea that' they could 
claim acquaintance with the gallant hero who was at length 
become so celebrated^ One day, however, he resolved to visit 
his former master, the tailor, and on entering the house and 
finding both him and his wife alive, inquired if they had ever 
lost an apprentice boy. He was assured they had ; but that 
he had been drowned " years ago." Soon, as the old woman 
was preparing some refreshment, she heaid her guest singing 
a song, it was the favourite song of the poor boy so long lost. 
She ran towards him, examined his features with the surest 
scrutiny, and recognized her poor Jack in the person of the 
grand admiral. With the generosity so characteristic of a 
British sailor, the admiral gave solid proofs that he had not 
forgotten her former care of the orphan apprentice boy. 

Ventnor to Shanklin, by the Sea ClifEiB and the ^ 

Landslip. 

Distance, 3} miles. 

From the esplanade the cliffs are gained by the steps 
ascending close to the millstream. Here a good view is had 
of the coast in the direction of St. Lawrence, the small head- 
lands called the Western Lines, and as far as Hoody Point 
assuming fantastic shapes, backed by the Undercliff and the 
Chalk Downs. After proceeding a few yards the gasworks 
come in sight on the shore, and the chalk cliffs in front are 
seen rising out of the water. There is also a fine view 

o 2 



84 TINTNOB SSOTIOH. 

of the east part of Yentnor ; and the wooded gioands of 
Bonchurch backed by the high down of St Boniface. Leaving 
the streets and houses the path runs along the brow S 
the cllfb, close to a wall with seats placed here and there. It 
is a pleasant quiet spot, the sea dashing on the pebbly beach 
directly below, and a broad expansis of ocean in ^nt. From 
two or three points charming views are had of Bonchurch, 
the tops of the villas rising out of the dense foliage, and 
above them the ivy-mantled cliff and noble downs. 

Directly above Horseshoe Bay, or Bonchurch Gove, where 
there is a sea-wall and a coal wharf, the old church of Bon- 
church will be observed on the left close to a tiny streamlet, 
and will be glanced at with interest. (See page 79.) The 
landslip generally called East End Landslip, begins a few 
yards beyond the church, at the point where the Bembridge 
Down, with its fort and monument, the Cnlver diffo, and 
the Foreland Point appear. It is a tract of ground ahont 
half a mile long and 600 yards broad, resting on the top (A 
the s'te cliffs and at the base of the down, close below a bold 
locky precipice or sandstone. It is a lovely wilderness of 
uneven ground bestrewed with rocky hillocks^ every nook and 
comer luxuriantly clothed with a dense growth of under- 
wood. The path runs parallel with the sea cliffs but a few 
nundred yards inland, and other rugged and shaded tracks 
branch in every direction, along which the lover of nature 
may wander at will over the rifted rocks and tangled hazel 
thickets, discovering fresh beauties at every step. Ever and 
anon there are fine views of the mural barrier, the wilderness 
of rocky hillocks and hollows adorned with trees and shrubs, 
ferns and wild flowers ; and as the traveller wanders about, 
or sits in the shaded nooks, he is soothed by the " slumb'ious 
murmur " of the waves below. 

The Bev. William Adams, in his beautiful tale of ' The 
Old Man's Home,' has given additional charms to the Land- 
slip, for it was here that he met " Old Bobiu," the hero of the 
story. The book opens with the foUowii^ description of the 
place : " There is a scene on the coast of the Isle of Wight 
with which I have long since become familiar, but wluch 
never fails to exercise a soothing influence on my mind. It 
is at the eastern extremity of the Landslip. Large portions of 
the cliff have fallen away, and formed a dell so broken and 
irregular, that the ground has the appearance of having at one 
time been agitated by an earthquake. But Nature has only 
suffered the convulsion to take place in order that afterwards 



BAST SNB LAHDSIJP. 85 

she xnight bestow her gifts upon this favoured spot with a 
more unsparing hand The wild and picturesque character 
of the landscape is now almost lost sight of in its richness and 
repofle. The new soil is protected from the storms of winter 
hy the cliff from which it has fallen, and, sloping towards tiie 
south, is open to the full wannth and radiance of the sun. 
In consequence of this, the Landslip has, as it were, a climate 
of its own ; and often when the more exposed parts of the 
country still look dreary and desolate is in tiie enjoyment of 
the blessings of an early spring. Such was the season at 
-which I first visited it. The grey fragments of rock which 
lay scattered on the ground were almost hid by the luxuri- 
ance of the underwood, and countless wild flowers were 
growing beneath their shade. Below, the eye rested upon a 
little bay, formed by the gradual advance of the sea ; and all 
was so calm and peaceful, that as I watched the gentle 
undulation of the watera, I could fancv them to be moving to 
and fro with a stealthy step lest uiey should disturb the 
tranquillity of the scene.*' 

The romantic wildness of this tract is due to a series of 
landslips, the latest of which took place in 1810 and 1618, 
when there were carried away 20 and 50 acres respec- 
tively. '' I was surprised," says one who visited it in 1811, 
**at the scene of devastation, which seemed to have been 
occasioned by some recent convulsion of nature. A consider- 
able portion of the cliff had fallen down, strewing the whole 
ground between it and the sea with its ruins ; huge masses of 
solid rock started up amidst heaps of smaller fragments, 
whilst immense quantities of loose marl, mixed with stones, 
and even the soil above with the wheat still growing on it, 
filled up the spaces between, and formed hills of rubbish 
which are scarcely accessible. Nothing had resisted the 
force of tiie falling rocks. Trees were levelled with the 
ground, and many lay half buried in the ruins. The streams 
were choked up, and pools of water were formed in many- 
places. Whatever road or path formerly existed througa 
this place had been effaced, and with some difficalty I passed 
over thia avalanche, which extended many hundred yards. 
Ptoceeding eastwards, the whole of the soil seemed to have 
been movM, and was filled with chasms and bushes lying in 
every direction. The intricate and rugged path became 
gradually less distinct, and soon divided into mere sheep 
tracks, leading into an almost impenetrable thicket. I per» 
ceiyed, however^ on my left hand the lofty wall of rock 



»9 



tf 



86 VJCNTNOB sionoN. 

which belonged to the same stratum as the UndercM, 
softened in its rugged character by the foliage which grew in 
its fissures, and still preserving some remains of its former 
picturesque beauty. Neglect and the unfortunate accident 
which had lately happened had now altered the features of 
this once delightful spot, and I was soon bewildered amoD^ 
rocks, streams of water, tangling rocks and briars." It is 
almost needless to say that '* this once delightful spot " has 
regained all its former beauty — 

" Wide as was here the desolation, wide 
Is now the beauty showered from side to side. 

Nature, 

*' softening and concealing, 
And busy with her hand of healing, 

has clad the ruins in a garment of loveliness. 

Emerging from the thicket, the Culver Cliffs, and the 
Bembridge Down reappear, and the traveller finds himself in 
the secluded vale of Luccombe, with the hollow of the chine 
below on the right. On the left, close to the road, a path 
will be observed which leads over a stile, ascends through 
the fields, and enters the carriage road leading between 
Yentnor and Shanklin. Tourists who do not desire to ood- 
tinue the journey can return hence either by road or shore. 

Passing the cottages by a path at the head of the chine 
(see page 72) the top of the hill on the east side of the valley 
is gained, and then there is beheld a delightful prospect; 
Shanklin being close below and Sandown more distant at the 
edge of the grand bay which is bounded by the Culver Cliffs; 
whilst far away is seen the coast of Sussex. Descending 
through the fields a road is reached, which enters Shanklin 
by the church, and the old part of the town, near the head of , 
the chine, 

Ventnor to Shanklin, by the Seashore. 

Distance, 3} miles. 

Commencing at the esplanade the traveller passes Mill Bay, 
which, by its name, records that until recently there was a 
commill directly above, worked by the adjoining stream. 
When beyond the gasworks, a point best reached direct fix)m 
the town, the chalk cliffs, called High Port Clififs, assume a 
fine appearance, rising almost perpendicularly from the shore 



ASOBNT OF 8T. BONIFAOIB DOWN. 87 

a height of ahout 100 feet, with sand, shingle, and rounded 

l>oiilders at their feet. In one place these cliffs may he 

SLscended by a winding path to the footway above, and soma 

'persons will adopt this course, for it is heavy walking here 

a.long the shore. 

When round the small projection of High Port or White- 
stone Point, the Horseshoe Bay or Bonchurch Cove is entered, 
where a sea-wall and a coal wharf have been erected. Here 
Skre two or three bathing machines for the accommodation of 
residents in Bonchurch. The old church is on the clifiF directly 
above. The chalk cii£fs now disappear, and dark clays and 
sands compose the headland of Dunnose Point. These strata 
underlie the chalk, and are known as the firestone, gault, and 
greensand. Immediately above the traveller, though, of 
course, out of sight, is the beautiful tract of the Landslip, 
Presently the Culver Cliffs, with Bembridge Down and Fore- 
land Point, burst into view in the distance, and half a mile in 
front may be seen the top of a house which is not many 
yards from Luccombe Chine. This latter is reached after 
leaving Steel Bay, where a path ascends the cliffs to the 
Landslip. 

Passing the secluded and wildly picturesque bay of Luc- 
combe, with its weird-like chine, high cliffs, and fishermen's 
cottages (see page 71), the Yellow Ledge and Horse Ledge 
points are rounded, and then the houses at Shanklin and 
Sandown appear, along with the whole of the grand reach 
of Sandown Bay, the Culver Cliffs, and the fort and monu- 
ment on Bembridge Down. The vertical sandstone cUffs at 
Horse Ledge, and thence to Shanklin Chine and the esplanade, 
present a majestic front rising to a height of 250 feet. 



Ascent of St. Boniface Down. 

St Boniface* Down, the noble chalk hill which rises steeply 
close behind Ventnor, sheltering the town from the cold north 
winds, may justly claim to be considered the presiding genius 
of the place. It is 784 feet high, the highest point on the 
island, and commands most extensive and beautiful prospects. 

* St. Boniface was an Englishman by birth. He became Arch- 
bishop of Mentz, and in 752 placed the crown on the head of Pepin, 
King of France, father of the great Charlemagne. He perished by 
martyrdom in 755, and was appointed an illustrious place among 
the saints of the Romish calendar. 



88 Y1ENTM0B 8E0TI0K. 

The dowD, named after St. Boniface, the apostle of Central 
Grermany, was looked upon in some degree as sacred groood 
in former times. A small white patch may stiil be se^i 
two-thirds of the way up the hill, nearly opposite Trinity 
church, marking the site of an ancient and famous well, 
now a mere puddle, known as Bonny's or the Wishing 
Well. It was formerly the custom for the boys and girls <tf 
the neighbourhood to make merry and resort here on Si 
Boniface's day, crowned with chaplets of flowers, and it was 
the popular belief that if the well were reached without 
once looking back during the ascent any wish formed while 
drinking the water would be certainly granted. Vessels were 
also wont to lower their topmasts as they passed in view of 
l^e sacred spot. Directly below the well, close to St. BomSsoB 
terrace, is a small plot of ground known as Parson's or 
Bishop's Acre, concerning which a legend is told that a 
certain bishop, when riding over the downs, lost bis way in 
a thick mist. After wandering about hopelessly for some 
time he in despair threw the reins on the horse's neck, and 
then, to his dismay, found the steed slowly sliding down 
the precipitous face of the hill. Giving himself up for lost, 
he invoked the aid of St. Boniface, and vowed that if he 
reached the bottom in safety he would give an acre of ground 
to the church that bore his name. Immediately afterwards 
the horse stopped abruptly with his hoofs planted in the well 
of the saint, and the prelate reached the bottom unharmed. 
The Bishop's Acre still belongs to the glebe of Bonchurch, 
and is a lasting memorial of the perilous descent. In com- 
memoration of this tradition it used to be the practice for 
the peasant lads to descend the down seated on the skuU of a 
horse, a custom now obsolete. 

Although St. Boniface Down is the name generally given 
to the entire bulky mass of chalk hills rising behind Yentnor 
and Bonchurch, the inhabitants rarely use this title, but 
speak of the separate parts of the mass by more local and 
individual names. The hill rising from Yentnor is known as 
Little Town Down ; the hollow behind it, over-looking the 
railway and containing the rifle targets, is Ck)ombe Bottom ; 
at the* head of this Yentnor down, and on the north side of 
it,Wroxall Down. Above Bonchurch rises Bonchurch Down, 
which curves round and ends in Dunnose Point, near fae 
East End Landslip. More to the east are Luccombe Down, 
above Luccombe Coombe and chine ; Shanklin Down, over- 
looking Shanklin town; St. Martin's Down and Cook's Outle 



A80ENT OF 8T. B0NI7A0B DOWN. 89 

being the northern spur, leading thence to Wrozall village. 
The smnmit heing almost level, and the whole a continuoiui 
mass, the stranger will sometimes have difficulty in naming 
the part on which he is standing. 

The ascent may he made from Trinity church by the path 

which leads past the Wishing Well, or a few yards &rther 

east, up the green slope of the hollow called Bamskin 

Bottom ; but me hest plan is to commence at the railway 

station, just behind the booking office, and walk up the ridge 

of Little Town Down, past the reservoir, with the Goomhe 

Bottom on the left. At every step the prospect enlarges 

and includes a hroad expanse of ocean, with the jagged coast 

and nndercliff as far as Hoody Point and St. Lawrence. 

When the top is reached, the town of Yentnor, close helow 

the traveller, and the sylvan grounds and houses at Bon* 

church, present a most enchanting picture. When at the 

head of the coomhe, on the top of Yentnor Down, which la 

covered with thick bushes of furze, the eye ranges as far as 

St. Catherine's Down, with its twin lighthouses and Hoy's 

pillar, a hill on the Dorsetshire coast, the Needles, and tiie 

Freshwater OlifiEs, Appuldurcomhe Down, Worsley obelisk, 

Brixton, and Chillerton downs. 

A few yards farther there opens to view the level central 
part of the island as far as Carisbrooke and West Cowes, and 
farther away are beautiful patches of the Solent with the 
opposite coast, the moi^ distant downs of Hampshire and 
Sussex bounding the horizon. A rugged cartroad, which 
runs in a straight line over the summit of these heights from 
Yentnor to Shanklin, enters the Wroxall Down from the 
Newport road at the Yentnor cemetery above the railway 
station. Persons on horseback ought to take this route. 
At a little expense it could be made fit for carriages, and 
would prove one of the finest drives in the Isle of Wight. 
Whether as a walk or ride it is truly glorious; there is 
an exhilarating feeling aroused at these elevations, while 
the ever-changing prospects are such as would take away 
all sense of weariness were the distance far greater and. the 
ascent more toilsome. After passing throu^ a fence at a 
gate, the Appuldurcomhe house and the villages of Wroxall 
and Godshill appear, and the Freshwater Cliffs are seen 
over Appuldurcomhe Down ; then suddenly there bursts forth 
a brilliant prospect, including the Culver Cliffs, Sandown town 
and bay, tne Bembridge, Brading, and Ashey downs, Brading 
Haven, the Solent, and a long stretch of the opposite coast. 



90 YBNTKOB SEOnON. 

Near tbe spot where the road divides, that to the right 
leading to Shanklin, and the left to Cook's Castle and 
Wroxall, the view is surpassingly beautiful, and embraces all 
that has been named, along with the town of Shanklin. It 
is thus described in Englefield's * Isle of Wight' : " The prospect 
is very extensive. To the north is a full view of the vale of 
Newchurch ; and in the distance, over the summits of Arreton 
and Ashey downs, is seen the northern part of the island, 
richly clothed with wood. The fleets at Spithead and Ports- 
mouth are distinguished, and the horizon on this side is 
hounded by the long line of the Hampshire and Sussex hills, 
extending to Beachy Head. Towank the west, appear St. 
Catherine's hill with its tower, and Appuldurcombe with its 
fine woods. To the north-west are the Medina, the Solent, and 
tiie coast of Hampshire. Below, to the east, is expanded the 
beautiful bay of Sandown, sheltered by the chalky promon- 
tory of the Culver, which stretches far out into the sea ; and 
nearer is the village of Shanklin, embosomed in trees ; an 
extensive view of the Channel, with its numerous spartding 
vessels, completing this magnificent prospect." The traveller 
has here the choice of routes. He may descend to Shanklin 
or Wroxall, and there catch the train (see page 40) ; or he 
may bend to right in the direction of Luccombe and Don- 
nose Point, and descend at the east end of Bonchurch into a 
road which runs along the side of the down, above the bold 
inland escarpment, with the villas and lovely grounds of 
Bonchurch close below on the left. After passing the Pulpit 
rock, Ventnor is entei*ed a few yards below the Wishing 
Well, close to Trinity church. 



Ventnor to Freshwater, Alirni Bay, and The 
Needles; by the TJndercliff, Black Gang, and 
Brixton. 

St. Lawrence, 1} miles ; Black Gang, 6 miles ; Chale, 6} miles ; 
Kingston, 9 miles; Shorwell, 11 miles; Brixton, 13 miles; 
Mottistone, 15 miles ; Brook, 16 miles ; Freshwater, 20 miles; 
Alum Bay, 24 miles. 

This is generally considered the choicest excursion in the 
Isle of Wight, the scenery almost the whole way being 
especially beautiful. 

Coaches run daily, Sundays excepted, from Ventnor to 
Black Gang in the morning and return in the afternoon. 



THE ITNDEBOLIFF. 91 

IDaring the summer months there are also coaches and chars 
k banc from Ventnor to Freshwater and Alum Bay, which 
start after the arrival of the 10 a.m. train, and return in time 
for the 8 p.m. train. The fares are usually as under, though 
alterations are sometimes made. 

single. Betnrn. 

«. d. t. d. 

Black Gang 2 .. 3 

Freshwater ...... 5 .. 8 6 

Almn Bay 5 6 .. 9 6 

Parties taking return tickets to Freshwater and Alum Bay* 
are generally allowed to return the following day. 

During the first few miles of the journey the traveller 
passes along the Undercliff, a lovely and far-famed district ; 
but unfortunately the views are often obstructed by the high 
walls and hedges which surround the private grounds and 
mansions. Sterling, writing in 1828, says : " The road tra- 
verses a broad terrace at a considerable height above the sea, 
but very much lower than a range of cliffs which runs behind 
it. You therefore have on one hand, rising to a great eleva- 
tion, a rugged wall of sandstone, and on the other a broken 
surface, in many parts half a mile wide, at the foot of which 
the sea dashes. This has been produced by the fall of a large 
portion of the cliff above ; but all marks of ruin, except the 
picturesque variety of outline, have been effaced by the 
luxuriant growth of trees and creepers. The latter in many 
places have clambered up the face of the highest part of the 
clifif, and draped it from top to bottom with a mantle of 
brilliant green. Almost all of the Underdiff is divided into 
grounds for the cottages of peasants or gentlemen ; and these 
gr<)unds are planted into the most delightful woodland, opening 
at every turn, from the perpetual fluctuations of their surface, 
into glorious visions of the sea j while on the other side they 
almost as often spread themselves up some inclined portion 
of the cliff so as to interpose a mound of mossy and graceful 
foliage between the road and the height above. The surface 
of the lower terrace traversed by the road is varied by a con- 
stant succession of glens, crags, and gullies, gently swelling 
elevations and broken valleys" Canon Venables writes: 
" There can hardly be anywhere found 5 miles which com- 
Inne so many elements of the picturesque — noble hills rising 
to an almost mountainous height, a rugged wall of cliffs^ 
stained with a thousand hues, and draped with luxuriant 
foliage; huge masses of grey rock starting from the tv" 



94 YBNTNOB SIOTIOBT. 

the Qneen, in July, 1869 ; and that of the chapel hy the late 
Bishop of Winchester, in December, 1871. A memorial tree, 
planted by the princess in the garden, commemorates her 
visit. 

When beyond the hospital, the walls and hedges on either 
hand are thickly covered with ivy, trees, and briars; and 
through this rank vegetation glimpses are here and there 
canght of the sea, which may be heard murmuring on the 
shore a few hundred yards distant. The St. Lawrence well, 
with its picturesque Gothic arch, which used to stand here by 
the wayside, is now, owing to an alteration in the road, 
situated behind the high wall on the left, in the groimds of 
St Lawrence cottage, the residence of the Hon. E. C. An- 
derson Pelham. This cottage was erected in 1781 by Sir 
Kichard Worsley, the historian of the island, and he is said 
to have brought an entrance gateway from Hampton Court, 
which was originally designed by Inigo Jones. Sir Richard 
planted a vineyard here, but the wine made from its produoe 
proving " scanty in quantity and rough and inferior in 
quality," it was, after a few years, discontinued. 

A few yards farther the road divides, the left-hand branch 
having been made recently to avoid the steep ascent. The 
one on the right goes past the little church of St. Lawrence, 
formerly considered the smallest in England, but there are 
churches in the mountainous districts of Cumberland and 
Westmorland which claim the same distinction. The original 
dimensions were 20 foet by 11 feet and 6 feet to the eaves: 
The first Earl of Yarborough lengthened it 10 feet by the 
addition of a chancel, and he also added a porch and bell 
turret. It is said that the bell, which was brought from 
Appuldurcombe, was in ancient times used to summon the 
monks there to dinner. The church stands directly under 
the inland cliff, and from it a branch road ascends the cliff, 
by what is known as the St. Lawrence or Whitwell Shute, 
and leads thence to Whitwell and the centre of the island. 
Between the church and the seashore is an ivy-clad ruin, 
called Woolverton chapel, said by some to have been a 
private chapel, owing, perhaps, to its Gothic character, but it 
is now generally considered to be the remains of a manor 
house of the thirteenth century, and as such most interesting 
to the antiquary. A new church is being built at St, Law- 
rence, on the left-hand side of the lower road, as the tourist 
approaches from Ventnor. 

Presently the roads again unite at the toUgate, and then 
the traveller proceeds on elevated ground, commanding fine 



THB UNDEBOLIFF. 95 

^ierws of the sea, and close by on his right is the bold 
&ce of the inland cliff, with weather-worn horizontal 
layers of sandstone, clothed in places with ivy and shrubs, 
aj:i<i all alive with countless jackdaws. Should he be on 
foot or in a private carriage he ought to walk to the summit 
of the cliffs by the Red Gun path, or a little farther on, 
"by Cripple path, which he will observe on the face of the 
crags. The prospect obtained from the height amply repays 
for the slight toil of the ascent. The ground is very beautiful 
around the mansions of Old Park, Mirables, and Orchard, 
and the whole way as fieu: as Undercliff Niton, 4^ miles from 
Ventnor, where a road branches to Crab Kiton, which is 
situated on the high ground half a mile farther inland. At 
tlie junction of the Niton road there is the handsome villa of 
Varlands, the residence of Mrs. Velmet, with grounds taste- 
fully laid out on the slope of the small hill adjoining. Here 
are also other good residences on either hand, and nearer to 
tbe sea are lodging houses, with a road branching to them, 
and thence to Puckaster Gove and Reeth Bay. 

After proceeding a few hundred yards farther the Royal 
Sandrock Hotel is passed. It is a delightfully quiet spot, 
and the grounds are very lovely. The front of the building 
lias a picturesque appearance, being shaded by a thick 
covering of ivy, whilst the windows command a good view of 
the sea. Dr. Arnold, in a letter dated July 28, 1836, and 
written soon after a visit to the Isle of Wight, exclaims: 
** As for the Sandrock Hotel, it is most beautiful." 

Another road is presently observed on the left, leading to 
the St. Gatherine's lighthouse and the shore. It also conducts 
to the Black Gang chine, crossing the ravine about half-way 
up, and thence leading to Ghale. In consequence of a very 
recent landslip it is now only fit for foot passengers. 

From the Sandrock Hotel a slight ascent is made, and then 
a magnificent district is reached, the cliffs on the right looking 
very grand, with large blocks strewn about, and on the left 
wild ground stretching down to the sea. Miss Sewell, in 
* Ursula,* describes it as " a broad tract of land, tossed up 
and down in little hills and valleys. It is scattered all over 
with huge rocks, which look as though giants had thrown 
them about in their play, and it slopes down in a steep 
descent towards the sea. A dreary-looking country it is, but 
it has a charm even for that very reason. As a child I only 
saw it occasionally, and always thought of it as connected 
veith haunts of smugglers and wild storms ; roaring waves 
and shipwrecks, ana heavy sea-mists, gathering over +^" 



96 YENTNOB BBOnOK. 

hills and shutting out the light, which was the only hope of 
the seaman's safety. It must have heen a fierce time on 
earth when the land sank away from the upper diffs, and the 
rocks were hurled down, and the streams, which have now 
worked their way through the lower clifiTs, and formed deep 
chasms, first began to flow. But those days are not within 
the memory of man that I ever heard ; yet even now it is 
solemn to stand and think of what once has been. Wbioi I 
first remember that part of the country it was, so to say, 
unknown and untraversed. There was no road throngh it. 
Persons had to go by the road over the hill ; only foot pas- 
sengers went over the difiis, and with them it was a difiBcnlt 
task to find their way, especially on a dark night. They 
might stumble among the rocks or wander to the edge of the 
cUfi's, and be over before they were aware of it. Some 
people at that time thought it an unsafe country to live in^ 
and said that the rocks would fall again; but there was 
little enough really to fear, though certainly things did seem 
terrible to those who were unaccustomed to them." This 
desolate region was the scene of a great landslip in February, 
1799. The then rector of Niton, an eye-witness, says : 
" The whole effect was produced by a silent and quiet settle- 
ment .... which carried with it the surface of nearly 100 
acres, breaking and tossing the whole about into innumerable 
fragments." Pitlands fieirm was situated on the ground thus 
disturbed, and another eye-witness wrote to the unlucky 
proprietor to inform him of the occurrence. He * writes : 
*' Tne whole of the ground from the cliff above was seen in 
motion, which motion was directed towards the sea nearly in 
a straight line. The ground above, beginning with a great 
founder from the base of the cliff, kept gliding down, and at 
last rushed on with violence, and totally changed the sur&ce 
of all the ground to the west of the brook that runs into 
the sea, so that now the whole is convulsed and scattered 
about as if it had been done by an earthquake ; of all the 
rough ground fix)m the cottage upwards to the cliff there is 
scarcely a foot of land which has not changed its situation ; 
the whole may be called one grand and awful ruin — ^there 
are everywhere chasms that a horse or cow might sink into 
and disappear." 

To understand the cause of these landslips it is only 
necessary to note the geological structure of the strata. The 
inland escarpment, here presenting a bold vertical fronts 
called Yore GlifGs, is composed of the series known by 



THE ITKDXBOLIFr. 97 

geologists as tlie Upper Gieensand ; above it are the chalk and 
marl, and below is blue clay or gault. The waves of the 
sea and the land springs, acting on the marl and gault, 
carry it away, and then the sandstone and chalk sink, slide, 
or roll over in greater or less patches. In this manner has 
been formed the beautiful district of the Undercliff, but 
some parts of that area have evidently been in comparative 
repose for many centuries, as evidenced by the positions of 
the old churches of St. Lawrence and Bonchurch. Mantell 
says : *' The chalk-marl forms the upper part of the series, 
and passes downwards into greenish-grey sands and cal- 
careous strata, in which are layers of bluish-marl rock. 
Strata of chertz sandstone, alternating with layers of sandy 
marl, occur in the lower part, and from the disintegration 
and removal of the intermediate earthy beds the chert appears 
in projecting ledges, along the face of the southern escarp- 
ment of the downs, through a considerable extent of the 
Undercliff. This circumstance imparts a peculiar feature 
to the landscape, and, under certain combinations of rock 
and v^etation, contributes greatly to the picturesque char- 
acter of the local scenery." 

Between Gore Cliff and the sea, near a Swiss cottage, 
is a chalybeate spring, which was much frequented forty or 
fifty years ago, but is now almost forgotten. The Sandrock 
Hotel was built principally for the accommodation of visitors 
who came to drink the waters. Dr. Martin, in his book on 
the ' Undercliff,' speaks of it as rivalling in general properties 
the most celebrated in Great Britain, and he says : " I feel 
assured that if the knowledge of its beneficial effects were' 
more generally known. Black Gang and its neighbourhood 
would become much more resorted to in the summer." 

On the right of the road the tourist will notice a pretty 
little temple-like edifice, containing a bust of Shakespeare^ 
and called " the Shakespeare memorial." It was erected by 
Mr. Letts, the publisher of diaries. Upon it is the fol- 
lowing: 

** He sits 'mongst men like a descended god ; 
He hath a kind of honour sets him off, 
Hore than mortal seeming." 

Below there is a spring of pure water, with the following 
inscription on a stone : 

''The water, nectar, and the rocks, pnre gold." 

H 



98 VENTKOB SXOTIOy. 

In the hollow on the left is the secladed villa of Sontb- 
lands, which was for some time the residence of Dr. Fnsey. 

TTha view here opens in front, and embraces a wide ex- 
tent of sea, and the bold headlands and beantiful clifb 
and bays, as far as Freshwater and the Needles; and 
more distant is the Dorsetshire coast around Pnrbeck Isle 
and St. Alban's Head. It is a charming and extensive 
prospect, and one that will please some persons better than 
the lovely but more confined scenery of the Undercliff. 

Presently the coastguard station and Black Gang hotel are 
reached. Here it is usual to halt for a few minutes, bat not 
long enough to allow the tourist to descend to the chine, tbe 
day's journey being too extensive to admit of so great a delay. 
It is therefore advisable to make a special visit to the place at 
another time, the cliffs and coast being remarkably wild, aad 
well worth seeing. 

Black Gang Chine is so unlike Shanklin Chine, so unlike 
the deep narrow clefts in the rocks which the word ** chine" 
usually denotes, and has been so lionized, and received 
such exaggerated praise, that the stranger*s first feelins: on 
visiting the place is usually one of disappointment. What 
also militates against the attractions of the spot, is, that it has 
been made common by the direct approach from the hotel being 
through a bazaar, where the tourist is expected to enter and 
make a purchase, or to pay 6d. In the bazaar is the skeleton 
of a whale which was caught near Alum Bay and the Needles 
in 1842. The whale when alive was 82 feet, and now the 
skeleton is 65 feet, long. In 1814 also a large whale was 
left by the ebbing tide on the shingles west of the Needles 
rocks. The owners of the bazaar are at some expense in 
keeping the paths in order, the rain constantly washing away 
the clay and sand of which the soil is composed, and there- 
fore there is some excuse for levying, blackmail. The shore, 
and the lower and best part of the chine, may be visited 
without payment, by following a road which leads from near 
Cbale church, past Southlands, in the direction of St. Ca- 
therine's lighthouse and the Sandrock hotel. Respecting 
the origin of the term Black Gang, the tradition is that the 
place was formerly the haunt of a desperate gang of pirates, 
but the original meaning of the name was probably the Ho/ck 
path. 

From the bazaar the traveller descends by a steep path in 
a winding course near the tiniest of driblets, with desolate, 
uneven, dark-clayey ground on his right, entirely bare of 



.^^ 



BIiAOX OAHQ OHDnS. 99 

vegetation, and constantly subject to landslips ; and on his 
left a bold irregular precipice composed of layers of sand and 
dark clay, interspersed with layers of freestone, which latter 
liave been liken^ to different courses of masonry. Close to 
tbe sea, the drops of water which constitute the driblet fall 
perpendicularly for about 50 feet into a large semi-circular 
cove or cave-like recess, formed by clififs of dark sand and clay. 
The sea, by constantly washing away the cliffs, is yearly 
varying the aspect of the scene, and from accounts of old 
authors one is led to think that this cove and cascade for- 
merly presented an aspect much more wild and im{X)sing than 
at present. Although the chine itself has little to recommend 
it to special notice, and will probably disappoint the traveller, 
yet no visitor to the island ought to omit descending to the 
shore, where the scene is one of wild desolation and grandeur. 
The sea, at all times, but especially in a storm, washes on the 
shii^ly strand with such fury as of itself to present a spectacle 
truly imposing, and the high bare walls of the adjoining 
cliffs, with the varied and picturesque &ce of the more distant 
coastline, bounded by the remote hills of Dorsetshire, form 
a picture both sublime and beautiful. One writer says : " It 
is not in a state of Tepose that this scene should be visited in 
order to realize it in all its terrific grandeur. It is when the 
spirit of the storm sweeps with desolating fury this rock- 
bound coast, and when the bowlings of the tempest strive for 
mastery over the roar of the world of waters beneath, that 
Black Gang Chine is exhibited in the character well qualified 
to earn its name." 

Half a mile from Black Gang hotel the traveller enters 
Ghale vills^e, which is situated in a rather bleak situation to 
the west of St. Catherine's Down. Here is a comfortable 
fisimily hotel and boarding house, the Clarendon. 

The church was built in the reign of Henry I. It contains 
a handsome marble monument, surmounted with an es- 
cutoheon supported by two soldiers, to the memory of Major- 
General Sir Henry Worsley, G.C.6., of the Bengal Army, 
sstat 73, 17th January, 1841. Over the vestry door are 
remains of a mural painting, with the words — ** And Jacob 
awakened out of his sleep.** 

The churchyard has been the last resting-place of many 
persons wrecked on the coast, and more than one gravestone 
tells of the loss of the * Clarendon,' a fine West Indiaman, that 
was driven ashore close to Black Grang, on the morning of 
October 11th, 1836. The previous evening was fine, the 

H 2 

48921 



100 TXNTNOB fiEOnOVtf 

wind fair, and the passengers had retired to rest. After mid« 
night the wind increased ; and the ship drove rapidly, but no 
danger was perceived till daybreak, when, already in the midst 
of breakers, escape was next to hopeless. The crew set sail, 
in hopes of weathering the point, but their efforts were fruit- 
less ; she struck about six o'clock, and within five minutes 
was a complete wreck. Of a crew of seventeen men and boys, 
and eleven passengers, only three lives were saved. All that 
could be gathered from the survivors was that she twice 
touched the ground lightly, at which time everyone was on 
deck ; and presently a mountain wave hurled her broadside 
on the beach with such force that the huge hull shivered into 
a thousand fragments. The awful suddenness of the catas- 
trophe prevented relief, although the ship was scarcely twice 
her own length from the cliff ; and all perished except the mate 
and two seamen, who were saved by the courage of some 
countrymen, who had hastened to the spot as soon as dawn 
disclosed the impending fate of the vessel; For hours after- 
wards the naked and mangled bodies of the unfortunate suf- 
ferers, with the remains of the vessel and cargo, were tossed 
about by the boiling waves, or strewed on the b^h. Six of the 
passengers (an officer named Shore, his wife and daughters) 
were buried in Newport graveyard, where a monument is 
erected to their memory. Most of the others were intened 
at Chale. 

Between the village and St. Catherine's Down is the Gbale 
Abbey farm, an ancient building. The bam, with its heavy 
buttresses, looks as though it had been part of some religious 
bouse, but no one appears to know its history. In all proba- 
bility it was originally a moni^stery, with the chapel and 
beacon light on the summit of tbe adjoining down under its 
care. We are borne out in this supposition by the following 
note in Worsley's History: "Sir John Oglander, in his 
manuscript, observes, that he had heard there were above a 
hundred churches, chapels, ahbeys, priories, nunneries, and 
oratories in the island, in the tenth year of the reign of 
Edward III." Englefield remarks : " It is rather extraordinary 
that this ancient bouse, whose remains are as picturesque as 
they are curious, should not have been even mentioned by any 
of the numerous describers of the island." 

From Ghale church there are two routes to Shorwell, one 
by Chale Green and Kingston ; and the other nearer the 
coast, through Atherfield, in the direction of the military 
^■oad. The military way is not open to the public. It was 



KINGSTON AND SHOBWELL, 101 

made to move troops from Freshwater in case of a landing 
beiiig effected in any of the Chines. Both routes are com- 
paratively unattractive. That by Atherfield approaches to 
within a short distance of Whale Chine, which is worth a visit 
if time permit ; and from different points are Obtained views 
of St. Catherine's Down, in the rear, and of the white chalk 
cliffs of Freshwater, in front. By the inland route a bend is 
made to left after passing through Chale Green, then a slight 
ascent, with views in rear of St. Catherine's Down, Hoy's 
pillar. Week Down, and Worsley obelisk, 

Kingston is a very little village, and one of the smallest 
parishes in the Isle of Wight. The church is also a diminutive 
edifice, occupying an eminence shaded by elm trees. It contains 
a brass, with effigies of Sir Richard Mewys and his three sons, 
dated 1485. Close by is an old manor house. 

Beyond Kingston the country for some distance is bleak, 
and rather monotonous, until are seen the village of Shorwell, 
and in the distaDce the chalk cliffs at Freshwater. 

Shorwell is a pretty secluded village lying in a wooded 
hollow at the south side of the chalk downs. A road 
leads hence over the downs and by the vale of Idlecombe 
to Carisbrooke and Newport, distant 5 miles. The three 
handsome seats of Northcourt, Woolverton, and Westcourt, are 
in the neighbourhood, and the church is one of the largest 
and best on the islandL The parish was taken out of Caris- 
brooke, and the church built in consequence of the parish- 
ioners having complained, during the reign of Edward HI., 
^ that they had to convey their dead 4 miles to burial, and 
in winter when they were obliged to pass through the water 
in Idlecombe Lane, the death of one prson was the occasion 
of many more." In the interior of the building is a stone 
pulpit, with the iron frame which used to bold the hour- 
glass, approached by a staircase through one of the piers. On 
the north wall is a fresco of St. Christopher bearing the 
infant Jesus upon his shoulders; and over the south door 
are the scanty relics of a painting of '' the Last Judgment." 
There are many monuments and epitaphs, principally in 
memory of the Leighs, of Northcourt. One is a stone altar- 
tomb, raised on three steps, with the effigy of a knight kneel- 
ing and praying before a desk, upon which an open book is 
laid. Behind him kneels a child, also in the attitude of 
devotion. In the compartments underneath are inscriptions 
to the memory of Sir John Leigh, of Northcourt, died Januaiy 
X8| 1629, £Btat. 83, and of Barnabas Leigh, his great grand-* 



102 TurrNOB sxonoN. 



u 



son, died January 25, 1629, stat. nine montba^ and 
laide in the tomb of his great grand&ther, who saw his heir 
of the fourth generation." Then follows : 

" Inmate in griere, he tooke his grandchilde heire, 
Whose soul did haste to make him repaire ; 
And so to heaven along as little page, 
With him did poast to wait upon his age.** 

At the west-end of the south aisle a blocked-up archway 
marks the place of the piece of ordnance (now sold) provided 
by Shorwell, in common with the other parishes in the 
island, for its defence in the reign of Edward VI. 

Northcourt is a fine old mansion, standing to the north of 
the church, on the slojpe of the down, in the midst of beauti- 
ful and extensive grounds, which are clothed with wood, and, 
command an admirable view of the English Channel. It was 
built in the time of James I. by Sir John Leigh, and aft<ff- 
wards passed by female line to the Bulls and Bennetts, and 
thence in right of bis wife to Sir Willoughby Gordon^ a 
Peninsular hero, who died in 1851, and now it ia in the pos- 
session of Sir H. P. Gordon, Bart. Near the house is a smaU 
ornamental building, like a Gothic ehapel, erected by a former 
proprietor, a Mr. Bull, to the memory of his daughter. Miss 
Catherine Bull, and on one of the smaller neighbourii^ 
downs there is a stone monument, locally termed ''Miss 
Bull's Folly," also dedicated to this lady's memory. 

Westcourt, another old manor house, clad with ivy, stands 
a short way firom the village on the left of the road leading 
to Brixton. 

Woolverton, less than a mile south of Shorwell, is a large 
Jacobite mansion containing some good carving. Kear it 
may be traced the site of a more ancient house, . No build<> 
ings are yisible, but a ** broad and deep mpat» enclosing, a 
square area," is entire. This was evidently once ibe principal 
seat in the parish. 

Leaving Shorwell, and passing Westcourt, the Freshwater 
Cliffs appear in front, also a broad expanse of oeean, and in 
rear the St Catherine's Down, with its two disused light-» 
houses and Hoy's pillar. 

A mile and a quarter from Shorwell is the hamlet of 
Lemerston, where, at a turn in the road, stands the ancient 
manor house. Formerly there was a chapel of the " Holy 
Ghost," served by three priests. The manor was carried tQ 
the Tichbome fiunily during the r^gn of Henry I„ by th9 



BillXTON. 108 

niarriage of Sir Boger with Isabella, the heiress of the 

ILfeinerstons, the heroine of the 'Legend of the Tichbome 

I>ole.* The charities of this lady were unbounded, and when 

slie lay on her deathbed, at the end of an unusually 

lengthened life, she prayed her liusband to grant her so 

much land as would enable her to establish a dole of bread to 

all comers at the gates of Tichborne on every succeeding 

X^ady-day, Sir Roger took a flaming brand from the hearth, 

and promised his wife as much land as she could herself 

encircle wbilst it continued burning. She caused herself to 

loe carried from her bed to a spot pointed out near the present 

lionse, and began creeping round it on her hands and knees. 

^Before the brand was consumed she had encircled several 

acres, still known by the name of " Crawls." The house, 

says an ancient prophecy, will fall, and the fstmily of Tich- 

'bome become extinct, should any of the Lady Isabella's 

descendants be daring enough to divert her charity. The 

^* Tichbome dole," in the shape of nineteen hundred small 

loaves, was regulariy distributed until the end of the last 

century, when the loaves were discontinued, on account of 

the idle rabble that gathered together to receive them. 

Morsels of the bread were kept as a sovereign remedy against 

ague and other ailments. Money of the same value has 

since been annually given to the poor. The Lemerston 

estate continued in the hands of the Tichbomes until the 

close of the last century, when the ancestor of the present 

baronet sold it. 

The road now runs at the foot of the chalk downs, which 
rise high on the rigbt (a small tower crowning an isolated 
knoll, known, as before said, by the name of '* Miss Bull's 
Folly," is a conspicuous object in the view), and soon 
the village of Brixton, or Brighstone, is entered. Few 
strangers will pass through this village during summer 
without a desire to return to it at some future time, it has 
such a cheerful retired look about it, situated as it is *' on the 
sunny side of the island, sheltered from the cold winds by 
overhanging hills, with a goodly church, and a near prospect 
of the sea." It is noted for having given to the English 
Church those distinguished prelates, Dr. Moberly, the pre- 
sent Bishop of Salisbury ; Dr. Samuel Wilberforce, late 
Bishop of Winchester ; and Ken, Bishop of Bath and Wells, 
whose well-known Morning and Evening Hymns have kept 
his memory green for nearly two centuries. While Wilber- 
force, who was the rector for ten years, resided here, it was 



101 YXNTNOB BEOTIOV. 

the favourite home of his father, the illustrions William 
Wilberforce. The latter, after the pecuniary troubles which 
in 1831 compelled him to give up his establishment at High- 
wood Hill, spent here the closing days of that '* calm old age 
on which he entered with the elasticity of youth, and the 
simplicity of childhood, climbing with delight to the top of 
the chalk downs, or of an intermediate terrace, or walking 
along on the unfrequented shore." A walk under Bough 
Down is still associated with his name. There is also shown 
at the bottom of the rectory garden a yew hedge as a 
'* cherished memorial " of the saintly Ken, the honest prelate 
who, whilst canon of Winchester, refused to receive Nell 
Gwynne into his house in the Close, when directed to do so 
by his royal master. He held the rectory from 1667 to 
1669. 

In the tower of the church is a stained glass window, the 
gift of Bishop Wilberforce, and the floor within the com- 
munion rails is paved with encaustic tiles, which were 
presented by Winchester College in commemoration of Bishop 
Ken. 

Brixton is said to be a corruption of Ecbright's or Egbert*s 
town, l^e manor having been given, too:ether with Calboume 
and Swainston, to the see of Winchester by King Egbert in 
826. 

From Brixton a road runs over the downs to Calboume, 3 
miles distant 

Half a mile beyond the village high ground is gained, and 
then the sea and the Freshwater cliffs burst prominently into 
view, the latter presenting a weird-like aspect, l^ere is 
nothing more of particular interest until the traveller reaches 
Mottistone, a pleasant hamlet clustered round a quaint little 
church perched on an eminence. In the churchyard close to 
the north gate is a dilapidated and weather-beaten pair of 
stocks. T^e old manor house, built in 1557, was the residence 
of tixe Cheke &mily, of which Sir John Cheke was a member. 
He was bom in Cambridge in 1514, and has been immortalized 
by Milton in the following lines : 

^ Thy age, like ours, soul of Sir John Cheke, 
Hated not learning worse than toad or asp. 
When thou taughtest Cambridge, and King Edward, Greek.** 

Milton' 9 ^SonneU,* 

He was tutor to King Edward VI., and the reviver of Greek 
learning at the University of Cambridge. Sir John's sister, 



KOTTISTOMS AND BIU>OK« 105 

Mary Cheke, became the wife of bis pnpil Cecil, Lard 
Buighley. 

A steep narrow lane leads direct from the church up the hill* 
nde to the Longstone or Mote-stone, distant about five minutes' 
walk. This relic of unknown antiquity is 10 feet high, 6 
feet wide in its broadest part, and is said to weigh about 30 
tons. It is composed of hard sandstone from the lower greea* 
sand formation. By the side of it lies another stone 7 feet 
long and 4 feet broad. 

'* Tinted by time, the solitary stone • 

On the green hill of Mote each storm withstood, 
Grows dim with hoary lichen overgrown/* 

Ptf»/, * I%e fair Island,' 

Some persons hate considered it to be simply a landmark, 
others have looked at it as the remains of a Druidical circle, 
or an ancient cromlech or sepulchral chamber. It would 
appear, from the name of the village, mote being the Saxon 
word for a public assembly, that the stone marked the place 
of public meetings daring the Saxon times. Near the stone 
is Castle Hill, upon which may be traced an ancient earthwork 
or fort nearly square. There are other earthworks and 
numerous barrows close by, and on the downs above. Only 
a few yards from the stone is a colossal tumulus behind 
CSastle Hill, known as Black Barrow, 

Beyond Mottistone village the turnpike of Hulverstone ii 
passed, and then there is a magnificent view of the Fresh** 
water Glifis : hardly from any point do they present a mora 
noble appearance. 

Without entering the little scattered village of Brook the 
road bends to right close to the manor house, a fine building, 
the residence 'Of G. Seely, Esq., M.P., who entertained 
Qaribaldi here on his first arrival in England in 1863. This 
mansion occupies the site of an old house where Henry Yil. 
was entertained in 1499, by its owner Dame Joanna Bowerman. 
The king was so pleased with his entertainment that he pre- 
sented his hostess with his drinking-horn, and made her 9k 
grant of a fat buck yearly from Parkhurst forest. 

From the manor house the road makes a steep ascent, and 
runs through a hollow and deep cutting in the downs to the 
northern side of the island. Brook church, which is passed 
on the right, contains a handsome font and pulpit, and is well 
worth a visit. It was built in 1864, the old church having 
been destroyed by fire. The Brook and Ghessel downs are on 



106 YBNTKOB BKOnON. 

one hand, and on the other Dunsbury and Shalcombe downSi 
The geologbt will look with interest at the series of strata 
developed in the sides of the cutting. Mantell says : " As 
we pass Brook manor house the ferruginous beds of greensand 
may be traced in the banks on the roadside, and Brook church 
is seen standing high up the hill on a terrace of those deposits. 
The relative positions of the strata in this district are displayed 
in the cuttings on the sides of the road from Shalcombe Down 
through the village of Brook to the seashore. If we proceed 
from the coast at Brook chine through the village, and ascend 
the road by the church and over Shalcombe Down, we pass 
in succession the Wealden, the greensand, the gault, the fire- 
stone ; and then cross the ridge formed by the highly-inclined 
strata of the white chalk.** 

When through the hills the road turns to the left at the 
Shalcombe farm, the house with the pond in front, and com- 
mands a view of the Solent, the Hampshire coast, and the 
north-western part of the island. Another turn to the left 
brings the houses and wooded grounds at Freshwater iii sight, 
which present a pretty effect combined with the sea and 
distant coast. Gradually appear the High Down and chalk 
cliffs, the Freshwater church, and the town of Yarmouth. 
After passing Afton farm and Afton house, the houses of 
Middleton Green are reached, close to the grounds of Faring- 
ford, the seat of Mr. Tennyson. Freshwater gate is distant a 
few hundred yards on the left, one of the most charming little 
spots on the island, and possessing excellent hotel accommoda- 
tion. For Alum Bay a turn is made to the right at Middleton 
Green, and, having passed the grounds of Faringford, the 
ro^d bends to left at the village of Freshwater. A steep 
ascent having been made, Weston manor house, the residence 
of — Ward, Esq., is on the right, and when through the 
hamlet of Weston the road runs between the High Down and 
^eadon Hill, with fine views of the Solent across to Lymington, 
Hurst Castle, Christchurch Bay, and the Isle of Purbeck. 
Presently the Needles Appear, and then Alum Bay hotel is 
reached. During the short stay here the stranger will obtain 
some refreshment, and occupy his time very pleasantly by 
strolling down to the shore in Alum Bay,apd then along the 
side of the High Down to the fort at the Needles, where he will 
obtain a view of the Needles rocks and ScratchelFs Bay. He 
may then ascend Headon Hill, or walk along the High Down 
to Freshwater Gate, after arranging with the driver so that he 
may there catch the return coach. (See pages 137 and 150.) 



TBNTNOB TO BLACK GANG, BT THB BEA-OLim. lOT 

Hf in a private conveyance, the return journey might be varied 
"by going vift Yarmouth or Calbonme, and thence trough 
C^urisbrooke and Newport. 



Ventnor to Black Gang, by the Sea«oliiBi. 

7 miles. 

Leavii^ the esplanade, a slight ascent is made to the top 
of the low cliffs, and then a path is entered which runs along 
the brow the entire way. Uodnish Bank hides the view to 
the right for a short distance, but in front the headlands and 
coves as far as Hoody Head present a picturesque appearance, 
with a rough boulder-strewn shore. When past Hodnish 
3ank, and over a rill, Steephill Castle appears close by on the 
right, and a long stretch of the Undercliff is seen, with the 
houses of St. Lawrence in the distance. Below the traveller 
is the Grasspool Gove, with three or four boats, and in rear 
are the houses and churches of Ventnor. Proceeding a few 
yards farther, the pretty little bay, called Steephill Cove, 
with its picturesque cottages, is reached. Here a patii 
branches into the main road. The hospital is now a promi- 
nent object close by on the right, and a view is had of th^ 
TJndercliff to St. Lawrence. Ascending from Steephill Cove, 
the prospect in the rear includes Steephill Castle, nouses on 
the side of Steephill Down, Little Town Down, the pier. Mill 
Bay, and most of the town of Ventnor. After descending 
into a slight hollow, with a miniature undercliff on the rights 
Orchard Bay is reached, where there are hard sands and a 
TOW of cottages. A few yards farther is Pelham Bay, well 
known by its miniature forts, one containing eight guns and 
two mortars, and the other three guns, plac^ here merely as 
ornaments, being too small to be of service against a foe. On 
making a slight descent a point is gained in a secluded and 
sheltered part of the clifif where the traveller sees the waves 
dashing directly below him, and the spray along the shore in 
almost every cove to Ventnor ; the headlands presenting a 
beautiful appearance. Most of Ventnor is in sight, and 
nearer are Steephill Castle and part of the hospital, with 
the downs in the background. Gaining the top of Hoody 
Head, 2 miles from Ventnor, which is situated directly 
opposite St, Lawrence church and shute, the view is remark- 
ably good, embracing the whole of the Undercliff fron^ 
Ventnor to Undercliff Niton a4d St. Catherine's lighthouse. 



110 * ' TSNTNOB BSOTION. 

tifol, and worth tnvelling many miles porpoeely to see. It 
is, perhaps, the most extensive, and the most channing view 
(tf the coast to be met with on the island. Many miles of 
Tariously-ooloured sandstone oliffit, with the bold chalk clif& 
beyond, form one magnificent bay, which is subdivided by 
headlands into a number of smaller but still large and lovely 
bays. Beyond these are the Needles, and still fitrther rise 
the hills on the opposite coast at Purbeck Isle and St. Alban's 
Head. 

Passing Watershoot Bay, Bocken End is reached, and here 
the land around becomes utterly desolate, chaos seems to 
reign supreme. The waves, lashed to fury, dash with 
terrific force amongst the huge masses of rock, whidi lie 
scattered at the base of the dark sand cliffs. The travella 
wanders over the debris of recent landslips, almost entirely 
devoid of vegetation, and high above him on the right is &e 
wild face of the inland cliff. After entering a carriage road, 
the grounds and mansion qf Southlands are passed. This 
carriage route, leading across Black Gkmg Gbine to Chale, has 
given way, and now the road is only safe for foot passengers. 
The chine is gained about half-way up. The traveller may 
descend by the path to the shore, or ascend to the hotel or to 
Chale village. 



Ventaor to Black Gang, by the Seashore. 

7 miles. 

From the esplanade proceed past a house, and then descend 
to the shore. The ground is rough, being covered with large 
rounded boulders, and the jagged cliffs are composed of dialk 
and picturesque masses of sandstone, storm-beaten into the 
appearance of a conglomerate. Although the walk is a 
rough one the tourist is not likely to regret the toil of the 
journey, for he will be well repaid by the sight of the waves 
dashing amongst the rocks, and if he be a student of geology 
he will find in this wild coast walk several fresh subjects of 
interest. On passing one or two headlands, and tJie bay of 
Foxes' Hole, Grasspool Cove is entered, a favourite resort with 
the Empress of Austria, for sea-bathing, during her sojourn 
at Steephill Castle in 1874. Here is a good beach and a 
few fishing boats ; and a view is had of the tower of Steephill 
Castle. Bounding a small point, Steephill Cove is gained, a 



VBHTNOB TO BLAOK GANG, BT THE 8BA8HOBE. Ill 

pretty spot, with excellent sands, and containing bathing 
macliines and fishermen's thatched cottages. The rocky 
promontories in front have now a hold look, and the retro- 
BpectiYe views are attractive. Here and there the traveller 
may find pleasant secluded spots, where he may perch him- 
self amongst the crags, and from his secure vantage points 
'watch the billows dafih and foam amongst the boulders at 
his feet. Such scenes never weary, but always afford subjects 
for contemplation. After threading along rough ground the 
Orchard Bay is gained — distinguished by a smooth beach and 
a row of cottages. Presently Pelfaam's Bay is entered, where 
are two mimic forts with small cannon. Glimpses are occa- 
sionally caught of the Undercliff, and a few hundred yards 
heyond the forts there is a lovely view in the direction of 
VentQor. The rocky shore and the headlands have a pecu- 
liarly fantastic look, and through the gaps are seen the 
hospital, Steephill Castle, the churches, houses, and pier at 
Ventnor ; and above the whole are the high downs. The blocks 
of greensand strewn about contain a large number of foesils^ 
and the layers of strata in the cliffs lie at every possible 
angle, having, duriug their descent, along with the landslips 
from above, turned in some instances topsy-turvy. 

Od gaining the west side of the rough rocky promontory 
of Hoody Head, the tourist enters another cove, called Hoody 
Bay, where there is a boathouse, and a few yards inland are 
cottages of the coastguard. The shore for some distance 
farther continues very wild, with masses of rock of all sizes 
and shapes strewn in every direction at the base of the chalk 
clifEs. When beyond Tenacres Bay, and Binnel Point, the 
Mirables Bay is entered, where a villa stands close to the 
shore. Here the cliffs subside aud slope from the water in 
low, uneven ground, covered with grass, shrubs, and trees 
for a few hundred yards to the bold escarpment of the Under- 
cliff, and in front is seen the St. Catherine's lighthouse and 
the tops of the houses of Undercliff Niton. At the farther 
end of this low ground is Puckaster Cove, at which are three 
fishermen's huts, not inhabited, but used as storerooms for 
nets, &a After skirting the Reeth, or Castle Bay, where are 
two or three bathing machines, the St. Catherine s lighthouse 
is passed, and then the cliffs reapp(*ar, a rugged shore lying 
at their feet. Leaving Watershoot Bay, containing a patch 
of fine sand, the traveller passes the wild promontory of 
Kocken End, the most southern part of the island. The 
cliffs here are high and composed of the greensand, the dia^^ 



112 YXNTNOB BIOTIOK. 

having been left behind, and not again coming in sight 
until near Freshwater. Large blocks are strewn on eveiy 
hand at the. foot of the cliff, amongst which immense ocean 
waves dash with loud deafening roar. This is the wildest 
and most dangerous part of the coast, and has been the scene 
of many shipwrecks. West of Booken End is Chale Bay, 
stretching past Black Qang to Atherfield Point. The shore 
is smooth, though unsafe for bathing, owing to the back 
draught, and when the tide is out Black Q&ng chine may be 
reached by walking at the base of the cliffs, which are com- 
posed of dark clay and discoloured sandstones, j>re8enting a 
wild desolate look. These cliffs are constantly rorming land- 
slips and being washed away by the waves, 

Ventnor to Black Gang and St. Catherine's BowxLy 
by the Inland Cliff; and back 'by Niton and 
Whitwell. 

St. Catherine's Down, 6 miles ; Niton, 7} miles ; Whitwell, 9 miles; 

Ventnor, 13 miles. 

Walking westward from the railway station, along the 
Newport road, a good view is obtained of Ventnor and the 
sea. W hen the town disappears the Steephill Down is entered 
by branching to the left and passing just below the cemetery 
and some lime kilns. This point may be gained by other 
roads trom the west-end of the town near the Royal Hotel 
From Steephill Down the path crosses a field to the edge 
of the cliff, and then the traveller has a view of the Under- 
cliff from Steephill and the hospital to St. Lawrence. A 
short distance beyond the hospital a winding cart-road 
descends the cliffs through the Pelham woods to the Ventnor 
and St. Lawrence road. The tourist has now spread below 
him the whole of the ground from Ventnor to St. Lawrence, 
with the mansions peeping out of the trees, and the bays and 
headlands of the coast, the limitless ocean bounding the 
horizon. When St. Lawrence shute is reached, the little 
church is seen close below on the left, and the road is crossed 
which leads to Whitwell, and thence to the centre and north 
of the island. A few yards beyond the shute, the St. 
Catherine's Down, with its two towers and Hoy's piUar, 
comes in sight; and the St Catherine's lighthouse is 
observed close to the shore, in the distance. The Bed Qon 
path (a corruption of St. Bhadegund^ the patron saint of 



^VSNTNOB TO BLAOK GAlfG, OK TBB INLAin> CLIFF. 118 

WJiitwell church) is then croflsed, leading from St. Lawrence 
"to Whitwell. On passing over the rising ground known as 
tlie High Eat^ Yentnor is lost to sight in the rear, but the 
"^ew opens to right as far as St George's Down. The cliffs, 
i^hich gradually become higher, more perpendiculiu:, and 
pioturesque, are tenanted by many hundreds of jackdaws ; 
and the ground below has a beautiful appearance, covered 
iTvith trees and large rounded thorn bushes, with here and 
there a pretty mansion and well ordered grounds. Care must 
\}G taken not to walk thoughtlessly too near the edge of the 
precipice. A man once stepped over the cliff in the dark, 
and though badly injured shortly afterwards recovered ; and 
in 1831 a young girl, of about fourteen, jvas proceeding along 
the path on a windy day when she dropped a basket which 
she was carrying, and in her anxiety to save it from going 
over the height, she fell over herself, but fortunately alighted 
on some soft brushwood, and was so little injured that she 
was able to walk home. At the point where the traveller 
reaches a hedge upon his right, he will find a zigzag path 
desoending the face of the cliff to the road below, called 
*' Cripple Path." It runs on the top through fields to Niton. 
Liooking back the Worsley obelisk is seen. On arriving at 
the point where a wall runs from the cliff, a good view is had 
of the villas of Undercliff Niton, witii the Sandrock Hotel, 
and the St. Catherine's lighthouse; also the down with its 
tviro disused lighthouses. Here a rugged descent might be 
made to the road. Folbwing the wall a few yards inland, 
the village of (Crab) Niton is seen close by, and in the dis- 
tance the tower of GK)d8hiU church, with Arreton Down in 
the background. 

After crossing the road leading from UndercUff Niton to 
Upper or Crab Niton, a lane is entered which conducts to 
the top of the cliff, whence a fine view is had of the beau- 
tiful grounds and mansions near the Sandrock Hotel. In 
the far distance, to the left of the Worsley obelisk, may be 
seen Ashey landmark. A few yards inlaud Niton church 
and village nestle in a slight hollow. Froceedins a 
little farther, there suddenly burst into sight the white 
chalk cliffis at Freshwater bay, and the Needles, with the fine 
intermediate bays and headlands of Compton, Brook, Brixton, 
and Chale. By branching to the rignt an easy gradual 
ascent might be made in eight or ten minutes to the summit 
of St. Catherine's Down. Continuing on the cliff, the ground 
below is composed of bare hillocks and hollows, having a 

I 



114t TXinsfOB SEonoir. 

wild and desolate look. When over a stile, and on Gore 
Cliff, the two rained lighthouses on the down close by 
on the right reappear and present an attractive aspect 
The bouses of Black Gang and Gbale are in sight close 
below the cliff iu front of the traveller, with the top of the 
tower of Chale church. There is spread before the eye, as if 
on a map, a wide extent of sea, and the bays and headlands 
beyoDd Chale, Brixton, Brook, and Compton, to the High 
Down, and the bold white chalk cliffs at Freshwater and l£e 
Needles. There is also the wide, level, cultivated ground 
from the ooast to the downs which stretch from Fresh- 
water in the direction of the centre of the island. The 
traveller may make a quick descent hence to Black Gang 
hotel and chine, or he may climb in a few minutes to the 
summit of St. Catherine's Down, which is 775 feet high, and 
commands an extensive panorama. 

On the top of the down there stand the ruins of a light- 
house, and a picturesque stone tower which acts as a landmark 
for vessels at sea. The lighthouse was commenced by the 
Trinity Board in 1785, but before it was finished it was 
abandoned as useless, owing to the mists which frequently 
envelop the hill, and in its place a lighthouse was erected on 
the sea-cliff beneath. The landmark, a lantern-like tower, 
35 feet high was repaired some years ago by the lord of the 
manor. It was formerly part of an ancient chapel, which v^as 
built here by Walter de Godyton in 1323, and dedicated to 
St. Catherine. Certain endowments were annexed to it for a 
chantry priest to say mass, and to provide lights for the safety 
of vessels passing this dangerous coast during the night 
Prior to the erection of the chapel, there was a hermitage on 
the summit of the down, where Walter de Langstrell, a soli- 
tary recluse, passed away his life in the gloomy austerities of 
ascetic devotion. 

The view from the summit of the down is extensive, and 
although most beautiful, perhaps not equal to that which 
is obtained from some other heights. The village of Niton 
appears within a stone's throw, and a little farther distant is 
Whitwell, both pleasantly situated in a quiet and secluded, 
but open and high part of the downs, from 1 to 2 miles 
distant from the sea. Beyond these villages are the 
hills which hide Yentnor, and run from Steephill and St 
Boniface downs, by Wroxall and Week downs to the 
Worsley obelisk. A wide valley, with Gt)dshill church 
prominent in the centre, stretches from the spectator to the 



ST. oathbbinib's dowv. 115 

nortb-eastem chalk range, includiog St. George's, Arreton, 
"Mjeealy^ Asbey, and Brading downs. To the right of these 
liills is the Brading Haven, and on the left may he seen the 
to'wers of Osborne, the tope of the houses at Newport, the 
sm oke rising from the Medina cement works, and part of 
West Cowes, and the Medina estuary. More distant is the 
long silvery streak of the Solent, wi& the opposite coasts of 
Sussex, Hampshire, and Dorsetshire, from Selsey Bill to St 
^lban*8 Head. To the west are the downs of Ghillerton, 
JSrixton, and Afton, ending with High Down ; the white cliffs 
at Freehwater and the I^edles present a noble appearance. 
A.t the feet of these hills there is an extensive cultivated 
plain, bounded by the beautiful line of coast which includes 
tlie Ghale, Brixton, Brook, Gompton, and Freshwater bays. 
To the south, close below the spectator, is the English Channel, 
the waters of which form a broad expanse of ocean, bounded 
only by the horizon. It is said, probably without foundation, 
that in clear weather the opposite coast of France near Cher- 
bourg may be discerned. 

Miss SeweU, in * Ursula,' when describing the view west* 
ward from St. Catherine's, says : *' The coast forms part of a 
great bay indented by smaller ones. The shore is closed in 
nvith red sandcliffs, rather low, broken, and jagged; but 
away to the west the red sand changes into chalk, and the 
cliffs become very steep, and rise to a great height; 
standing out against the sky when the sun shines on them, 
until they almost dazzle the eye ; and at other times covering 
themselves, as it were, with a bluish veil of mist, and looking 
out proudly from behind it. I always liked the white clifb 
very much, yet my eye never restea upon them long, but 
wandered still farther, to a distant stretch of grey land 
looking like a cloud, which could be seen just where the sea 
and sky met." 

Hoy s pillar is observed standing about three-quarters of a 
mile distant, on Chale Down, the northern spur of the emi- 
nence. During the walk to it, pleasant views are obtained 
on either hand. On the left are seen Chale, Kingston, and 
the south-western part of the island to Freshwater ; and on 
the right, in the distance, appear Brading Haven, Bembridge 
Down, and the Culver Clifis. The column, 72 feet in height, 
was erected by Michael Hoy, a Russian merchant, who resided 
at the Hermitage, a mansion situated a few yards distant 
on the northern slope of the hill. The situation of the 
column renders it a conspicuous object from a very large 

I 2 



116 TSNTirOB SECTUXSf. 

portion of the island. It bears the following inscripticHi : 
" In commemoration of the visit of His Imperial Majesty, 
Alexander I., Emperor of all the Bnssias, to Great Britain, 
in the year 1814. In remembrance of many happy yean' 
residence in his dominions this pillar was erected by Michad 
Hoy." 

Another tablet has been placed on the opposite side of the 
column, bearing the following inscription: ''Erected by 
William Henry Dawes, late lieutenant of H.M. 22nd Regi- 
ment, in honour of those brave men of the allied armies who 
fell on the Alma, at Inkerman, and at the siege of Sebestopol, 
A.D. 1867." 

The Hermitage is the '* Dene " of Miss Sewell's ' XJisola,' 
the scene of which is laid here. 

Returning to St. Oatherine's Down, a rugged cart-road may 
be entered which runs direct to Niton, over high, furze-clad 
ground ; or the village may be gained by a footpath firom 
the south side of the hill, near the inland cliff. 

Niton is sometimes called Grab Niton, from the abundance 
of these and other crustaceans on the coast, and to distin- 
guish it from Knighton, near Ashey Down. Hiissell, writing 
in 1790, tells us that this term gives great offence to the 
inhabitants, who generally conceive that it is meant to denote 
their being crabbed or ill-natured. The village is aboat 
1 mile from the sea, on the ground above the XJndercIifi^ 
close to the eastern slope of St. Catherine's Down. The 
situation is good, but being secluded and somewhat out of 
the way, is little visited, although if better known manj 
persons would be pleased with the character of the place, and 
might make it the centre for many walks and (uives. It 
seems to have been inhabited in very remote tioies, for in 
one or two spots close to the village are said to be traced 
artificial mounds, apparently the remains of fortified camps, 
supposed to be the sites of ancient Celtic settlements. The 
church, one of the oldest in the island, contains a monument 
to Mr. Arnold of Mirables, with a medallion by Flaxman, 
and bas-reliefs by Rion. The opening of the rood-loft and 
a plain piscina will be noticed. The present north aisle dates 
from 1864. The arcade, however, which separates it from the 
nave, is ancient, having been built up centuries ago on the 
demolition of the original aisle. Against the north face of 
the tower there stood until 1864 a ruinous old gunhouse, 
built at the time when the seaside parishes were bound to \ 
provide guns for the defence of the coast against foreiga 



HITOK Ain> WHETWBLL. 117 

The old churchwardens' accounts make constant 
XKxexktdon of the purchase of gunpowder out of church rates. 
Tn 'blie churchyard are the original steps and base of an 
axioient cross, upon which was erected, in 1873, a cross of 
OoTXiish character, designed by J. Clark, F.S. A. The roisters 
<l&tie from 1560, and contain the following entry : *' July the 
Xst;, anno domini, 1675, Charles II., King of Great Britain, 
Fraxioe, and Ireland, &a, came safely ashore at Puckaster, 
after he had endured a great and dangerous storm at sea. 

" Ut regnet diu et feliciter 
Yoyit et exoptat Thomas Collinson, 

Rector de Nighton." 

CThat he may reign long and happily Thomas Collinson 
pxays and ardently desires.) 

In the village is a small inn, the White Lion. Whit- 
-^^ell is li miles east of Niton, in a similarly secluded 
position. The church possesses some singular features, 
naving originally consisted of two distinct chapels, which 
liave since been converted into one building. One of these 
cliapels was built and endowed by a Lord of Gatcombe, in 
-^Bvliich manor Whitwell was at one time included. The oUier 
Iwlonged to the parishioners of Whitwell. In the church 
is a neat pulpit of the time of James L Becently some 
frescoes have been discovered on the south wall, supposed to 
represent the disembowelling of Erasmus. A document 
much decayed but quite decipherable yet remains among the 
parish records to testify that in the year of our Lord 1314, a 
dispute having arisen about the performance of divine offices 
lay the Hector of Gatcombe and the Vicar of Godshill (of 
which Whitwell was a quarter) respectively, the judgment 
of the Bishop of Winchester is that henceforth the Vicar 
of Ghxlshill shall take the whole responsibility in considera- 
tion of an annual payment to him by the Bector of Gatcombe, 
of 11. 6s, 8d, The payment continues unchanged to this day, 
and the Bector of Gatcombe continues to repair one of the 
chancels. 

Near to Whitwell is Stenbury, a venerable Jacobite manor 
house, once the seat of the De Heynos, and afterwards of a 
branch of the Worsleys. 

From Whitwell, or Stenbury, the traveller may reach 
Ventnor by crossing over Week Down, or he may follow the 
load and gain the Underdiff close to St. Lawrence church. 



118 TXNTNOB BSOnOK. 



Ventnor to Oarisbrooke and Newport; by Black 
Gang, Ckale, and Oatcombe ; and back by 
Arreton, Gtodshill, and Appuldurcombe. 

Black Gang, 6 miles; Chale, 6) miles; Oatcombe, 12 miles; 
CSarisbrooke, 14 miles; Newport, 15 miles; Arreton, 19 miles; 
Godshill, 21 miles; Appuldarcombe, 24 miles; ^YentDor, 
26 miles. 

During the summer moutlui coaches and chars-k-banc leave 
Yentnor railway station for the above places every morning 
(Sundays excepted) after the arrival of the 10 o'clock tndn. 
Fare for the whole journey, 58. After calling at the different 
hotels in the town a start is made from the Royal at 11 o'clock. 
For a description of the road from Yentnor to Black (Sang, by 
the Undercliff, see page 90. At Black Gktng there is a delay 
of an hour and a half in order to allow parties time to visit 
the chine. Those who have been here before, and seen the 
chine, may while away the time very pleasantly by ascend- 
ing St. Catherine's Down, whence they can either return to 
the hotel, or descend on the opposite side of the hill and catch 
the coach beyond the village of Chale. 

After passing through Chale, and Chale Green, described at 
page 99, the road to Freshwater branches to left, by Kings- 
ton village, visible a few yards distant. On the right are 
?resently seen Shanklin Down, Cook's Castle, Appuldurcombe 
>own, and Worsley obelisk. Three quarters of a mile farther, 
BilUngham House stands amongst a cluster of trees on the 
right. It was once the seat of a branch of the Worsley 
family. Presently high ground is gained, and a view is had 
in the rear of St Catherine's Down, and the sea; then a 
descent is made to the base of Chillertoii Down, and a pros- 
pect obtained of Arreton and St. George's downs. Passing 
Chillerton farm, there are on the roadside for some distance 
the straggling houses of the hamlet of Chillerton, and then 
Sheat manor house, a fine old gabled mansion (now used as 
a farmhouse) has a pretty effect, with its pond and swans in 
front, and surrounding foliage. It contains some interesting 
Jacobite carving. Sheat was one of the few properties whose 
Saxon possessor, Alaric, was not disturbed by the Norman 
invasion. 

A short distance farther is Gatcombe house on left, in 
the midst of a park, with woods and downs behind. A road 
through the park leads past the house to the church and 
village of Gktcombe. Gatcombe house is a large stone 



GATOOMBB. 119 

rna tpsion erected in 1750 by one of the younger branches of the 
W OTsleys, who were long settled here. Mr. (afterwards Sir) 
Sd'ward Worsley of this family was one of the most devoted 
£t<ilierents of Charles I. during his imprisonment in the island, 
£kiid an active and zealous agent in the king's various en- 
deavours to escape. On the failure of the second attempt, 
IMay 28th, 1648, Worsley and his companion Osbom, in 
riding off from the castle, received the fire of the musketeers 
Txnliart, and succeeded in reaching the boat, but the master 
irefused to let them embark, as they had come without the 
king, and they were compelled to conceal themselves in the 
adjacent woods for son^e days, procuring sustenance in the 
x&ight by the aid of a kinsman of Mr. Worsley, who eventually 
proyided a vessel to take them off from the south side of the 
island. Another more romantic version of Worsley's escape 
is, that he was put into a large chest, which was placed under 
a load of fagots and conveyed to Wootton park, whence he 
got safe to King's quay, and passed into Holland. The 
former tale is probably more authentic. The watch presented 
±o him by the king as a token of his gratitude is in the pos- 
session of his descendant Miss Hosetta Worsley, of Shorwell. 
The village of Gatcombe offers a charming picture of rural 
retirement. Its cottages, rectory, and manor house are snugly 
ensconced at the foot of Granson down, and pleasantly 
shrouded by trees ; whilst above a luxuriant grove peer the 
tower and pinnacles of the church. In the church is a 
wooden eflSgy of a man in armour, called by the villagers 
the "Saint." It bears no inscription, but probably repre- 
sents one of the family of Estur, or of the Lisles of Wootton, 
to whom the manor belonged before it was purchased by the 
Worsleys. The Isle of Wight steeple chases were formerly 
annually held at Gatcombe about the end of April, but they 
have recently been removed. 

Leaving Gatcombe behind, and emerging from the shade of 
the large elm trees at Whitcombe house, we catch sight of 
Carisbrooke Castle and nunnery in front. In the distance 
on the right are observed the houses of Stapler's Heath, 
between Mount Joy and St. George's Down. From Little 
Whitcombe a slight ascent is made, and then Carisbrooke 
Castle bursts into view close in front. This is the least inter- 
esting side of the ruin. Turning to the right and passing the 
nunnery and cemetery, a descent is made to the pleasant 
looking village of Carisbrooke, and across the vale are seen 
Parkhurst forest and barracks, and Northwood church. 
After staying at Carisbrooke two hours, in order to allr- 



120 yjENTKOB Bxonoir. 

time for refrefihment (hot and cold joints are generaUj in 
readiness at the hotels) and to visit the castle, the R<Hnan 
villa, and the church, see page 179, the journey is continned, 
and a pleasant drive leads along a shaded road, past trees^ 
gardens, and villas, to the town of Newport^ the Bngle Inn 
heing reached after passing along the Mall and High 
Street. Here it is usual to remain long enough to allow tihe 
stranger to visit the church. Some persons will walk from 
Garishrooke to Newport by the path described at page 18^ 

From Newport, Arreton is generally reached by way of 
Shide, but occasionally the Stapler's Heath route is taken, as 
it allows of much superior views, but is more hilly, and con- 
sequently harder work for the horses. If the passengers do 
not desire to travel vift Arreton the driver sometimes goes 
through Godshill, thereby saving a mile. 

For Godshill the road leads from the Bugle Inn through 
St. James's Square, Upper St. James's Street, and Node Hill 
toUgate, and then bends to the left for Shide, with Stax>ler'8 
Heath, Pan Down, and St. Gorge's Down in front. Passing 
Shide railway station, the road runs by the base of Pan Down 
and St. Gorge's Down, and commandis pleasant views on the 
right of small wooded hills and the nunnery and Carisbrooke 
Castle, whilst in front appear St. Catherine's Down and 
Appuldurcombe Down, crowned with their monuments. 
Turning to right at Blackwater station, and leaving the Arre- 
ton road to the left, the railway is crossed, and a long gradual 
ascent made. Then the St. George's, Arreton, Messly, Ashey, 
Brading, and Bembridge downs appear, with the white 
Culver cliffs ; and on proceeding a little farther the Shanklin, 
Wroxall, and Appuldurcombe downs are visible. To the 
right are seen Chillerton down, the tower of Gatoombe 
church, the nunnery, and Carisbrooke Castle. Also just 
before entering the village of Bookly Gatcombe house comes 
in sight. As the traveller proceeds these objects vanish, and 
then reappear at different points, and the Godshill church 
gradually becomes prominent in fh)nt. 

On arriving at the pretty village of Godshill, with its 
thatched cottages clustered round a small isolated hill, upon 
the top of which stands the church, a prominent object frx)m 
the surrounding country, the traveller will do well to rest at 
the substantial comfortable inn, the Griffin, and take a stroll 
to the top of the knoll. According to tradition the church 
was originally being built at the foot of the hill, but eveiy 
night the work of the previous day was undone by invisible 
hands^ and the materials carried to tiie summit At last it 



60DSHILL. 121 

was resolved to obey so clear an omen and erect it in its pre- 
sent elevated position. The name of the village appears to be 
derived from this tradition. Godshill was the birthplace of 
Dr. Henry Cole, Provost of Eton, and Dean of St. Paul's, a trae 
*' Vicar of Bray," who changed from Protestantism to Roman 
Catholicism, and back again, according as a Protestant or Roman 
Catholic sat upon the throne, and who- ''damn'd himself to 
everlasting fame " by consenting to preach the sermon when 
Cranmer was burnt. It is said that he was once charged 
with a commission against the Protestants in Ireland. In his 
way to Dublin he stopped at Chester, and made known to the 
mayor of the city the business with which he was entrusted ; 
but being overheard by his hostess, who had a brother a 
clergyman in Ireland, she found means to obtain the box 
which contained his commission, from which she removed 
the document, substituting for it a pack of cards. On his 
arrival in Ireland he was introduced to the Lord Lieutenant ; 
when he began, with all due form, to disclose his momentous 
business ; but on opening his box, to his utter dismay he 
foimd nothing but the cards. Mortified at the circumstance, 
he immediately took steps to procure a fresh commission ; but 
it was too late, Mary died, and the spirit of persecution came 
to a close. The fact having /cached Elizabeth, it is said she 
rewarded the ingenious hostess with a yearly pension of 
40Z. 

There is evidence that a church existed at Godshill before 
the Norman conquest, but the present edifice, though ancient, 
appears to be of later date. It has a picturesque interior, 
adorned by several stately memorials of the dead. There is 
also a large painting of I^uiiel in the lions' den, said by some 
to be by Rubens. It came from the celebrated collection of 
Sir R. Worsley at Appuldurcombe. Hassel writing in 1790 
thus refers to this psonting when describing the objects of 
interest at Appuldurcombe ; he says : *' The picture of Daniel 
in the lions' aen, after the original, in the possession of his 
Grace of Hamilton, is here. The original is accounted one of 
Rubens' masterpieces. Several prints have been engraved 
from it." 

On the gable of the south transeptal chapel is a saints or 
sancte bell turret, containing a bell which was rung when the 
Host was lifted up, and at the verse, '* Holy, Holy, Lord God 
of Sabaoth." The greater part of the monuments are to 
various members of the Worsleys, of Appuldurcombe, from 
^ Sir John," captain of the isle, the first of the family of note 
in the island, to '* Sir Richard/' the last of his famous 1' 



122 TBNTNOB BlOnOK. 

who died in 1805. A rich altar-tomb, spoken of by Sir 
J. Oglander as '* the finest tomb in our island,'* stands to the 
south of the communion table, under a richly-worked canopy 
of the early part of Henry YIIL's reign, bearing the effigies, 
in alabaster, of Sir John Leigh, of More, in Dorsetshire, and 
his wife Mary, the heiress of t;he Hackets, of Woolverton, 
and widow of the last of the Frys, of Ap^uldurcombe. The 
knight lies in complete armour, with a collar round his neck ; 
the dress of the lady displays the armorial bearings of her 
fEimily. During the fourteenth century Godshill church was 
the scene of some unseemly disputes between the seculars and 
regulars, then so common. Letters from two successive 
bi&ops of Winchester, a.d. 1307, 1340, are given in Worsley*8 
History complaining that the monks had taken violent pos- 
session of the church, and fortified themselves therein, holding 
it by force of arms against the bishop, and begging the king 
to interpose his authority on their behalf. The b^ops won 
the victory. In the church, near the south door, is a tablet 
recording the virtues of one Eichard Gard; but this said 
Richard, according to Sir J. Oglander, was a shrewd dis- 
honest French refugee, who amassed considerable property by 
various base practices ; getting possession of title deeds of 
estates under colour of examining them, he would discover 
some flaw, and by base and fraudulent representations drive 
the parties to a composition. Among other of his vicious 
practices he was known to steal a cow, and put hot loaves 
just taken from the oven upon her horns to make them 
supple, and by that means he would turn them the contrary 
way, and so disfigure the poor beast that the owner of her 
might not know her again. A grammar school of some note 
in the district formerly existed here. It is variously stated 
to have been built by one Bichard Andrews, in 1595; by 
Lady Ann Worsley, before 1604; and by Sir Richard Worsley, 
in 1614. The endowment having proved entirely inadequate 
the intentions of the founder have ceased to take effect, and 
it has dwindled to an elementary school. 

From Godshill a long circuit is made to Wroxall, and some 
persons who may have a private conveyance will prefer to 
alight a short distance from Grodshill, and walk through the 
park of Appuldurcombe, meeting the carriage again at 
WroxalL The road passes through the hamlet of Ssmdford, 
and the Worsley obelisk on one side and Cook's Castle on the 
other are prominent objects. After leaving on the left the 
road leading to Arreton, Wroxall village is entered. 



ABBBTOK. 123 

Those who travel from Newport by way of Arreton will 
branch to the left at Blackwater (see page 120) and continue 
on the road winding round the base of St. George's Down, 
After a slight ascent there is an extensive view embracing 
Ghillerton Down, Gatcombe house and church, St. Cathe- 
rine's Down, with its twin pharos and slender Alexandrian 
pillar, Appuldurcombe Down, with its shattered obelisk, and 
Shanklin Down. Three miles and a half from Newport the 
road bends to left and then burst into view the Arreton, 
Messly, Ashey, Brading, and Bembridge downs, the latter 
^th its fort and monument, the top of the Culver Cliffs, the 
spire at Newchurch; and Godshill church is a prominent 
object. A few hundred yards farther the lane on the right 
is entered, and immediately the traveller arrives at the village 
of Arreton, which is pleasantly situated at the foot of 
Arreton Down, and is often visited by strangers in the Isle of 
Wight, owing to its churchyard being the last resting place 
of Elizabeth Walbridge, the dairyman's daughter, the subject 
of Leigh Richmond's narrative. By her side repose her 
sister and her aged parents. The following epitaph on her 
gravestone is said by some writers to be from the pen of 
her biographer, but this is a mistake ; it was written by 
Mrs. W. C. Bousfield, well known as a poetess among her owii 
friends : 

** Stranger I if e'er by chance or feeling led, 
Upon this hallow'd turf thy footsteps tread ; 
Turn from the contemplation of the sod, 
And think on her whose spirit rests with God. | 
Lowly her lot on earth, — but He who bore 
Tidings of grace and blessing to the poor. 
Gave her, His truth and faithfulness to prove, 
The choicest treasures of His boundless love — 
(Faith, that dispelled affliction's darkest gloom ; 
Hope, that could cheer the passage to the tomb ; 
Peace, that not hell's dark legions could destroy ; 
And love that fiU'd the soul with heavenly joy). 
Death of its sting disarmed, she knew no fear. 
But tasted Heaven e'en while she lingered here. 
Oh, happy saint I may we like thee he blest. 
In life be fiiithful, and in death find rest." 

A recent proposal to substitute an elaborate tomb for the 
present simple gravestone, which bears the above inscription, 
was very properly n^atived by the surviving relatives of the 
dairyman's daughter. An endeavour is now being made. 



124 VKNTNOB BBOnOK. 

which is entirely oQngenial to their feelmgs, to erect a memo- 
rial window in the church in her honour, from an admirable 
design by Hardman; and those who visit her grave are 
invited to contribute to this object, on the inducement 
expraened by this quaint triplet : 

'* The Hying spirits of the happy dead 
CSare not so much their bones be honoured. 
As that God's shrine be beautified instead." 

« 

An alms-box is placed in a window of the chancel to 
receive offerings for this purpose. 

The church, said to have been built a.d. 1141, is an in- 
teresting edifice, with an embattled tower belonging to the 
Early English period. One Norman window has been opened 
in the north wall of the chancel, and traces of three other 
similar windows in the west gable, half hidden by the tower, 
are distinctly visible. A low arch, opening from the tower 
into the church may even be of Saxon origin, and if so may 
be the one surviving fragment of an earlier building on the 
same site, in which the rude forefathers of the hamlet wor- 
shipped before the Conquest. There is a desk erected for the 
purpose of supporting an illustrated copy of Foxe's * Book of 
Martyrs,' sixth edition, 1631. lliere are several mural 
tablets and monumental brasses'—one of the latter dated 1430^ 
and a bas-relief by Westmacott. The church is dedicated to 
St George, which probably accounts for the neighbouring 
down being distiugmshed by the same name. 

Near the diurch stands a large Jacobite manor house, con- 
taining some grotesque carving, the high relief of which 
proves it to belong to an early period of xylography. 

Leaving Aireton, the church spire of Newchuroh graduaUy 
comes in view, and the railway is crossed at Horringford 
station, three-quarters of a mile distant. Close to the station 
is the old Hasely manor house, which formerly belonged to 
the monks of Quarr Abbey. Edward Horsey, who was 
governor of the island from 1565 to 1582, and whose monu- 
ment is in Newport church, died here of the plague. It is 
reported of him that he took great interest in the preservation 
of game, and gave a lamb for every hare brougnt into the 
islcmd.* Three-quarters of a mile beyond the station the 

* Foxes are of more recent introduction, dating from the present 
century. At present there is a pack of foxhounds on the island, 
kept by subscription, and one private pack of harriers. 



. APPTJLDUBCOUBE. 125 

dairyman's cottage may be noticed op. the right, nearly- 
opposite a small Methodist chapel. It is a low thatchea 
building, whitewashed, and with a red brick portion lately 
added. A short distance past the cottage is a small inn, and 
some yards farther a road on the right might be followed by 
the pedestrian, and a footpath entered leading by French 
Mill to Wroxall. The name of this little com mill keeps up 
.the memory of the time when the French monks of Mont^ 
bourg, of which Appuldurcombe was a branch, owned the 
manor of Grodshill. 

Following the direct main road a torn is made to the right 
where stands the guide-post 5 miles to Ventnor. The 
Shanklin Down is in front, and part of the town named after 
it is visible. The Worsley obelisk and Cook's Castle also 
appear. Three and a half miles from Ventnor the road joins 
the one from Godshill. As the village of Wroxall is entered 
the park and house of Appuldurcombe have a noble appear- 
ance resting at the base of the down. This large mansion 
was once considered the principal residence on the island. It 
was commenced in 1710, by Sir Robert Worsley, and com- 
pleted by his successor, Sir Richard, the author of the 
* History of the Island,' who, during his travels in Italy, 
Greece, Egypt, and Asia Minor, got together a gallery of 
pictures, and a fine collection of ancient marbles, figured in 
his * Museum Worsleianum,' a rare and costly book. The 
Rev. W. Gilpin in his * Picturesque Beauty,' speaking of 
this building, says : ** Here everything is uniformly grand, 
the house is magnificent, and it is magnificently furnished. 
The grounds too are laid out in a style of greatness equal to 
the mansion." Though still a stately structure, its chief 
glory has departed. On the death of Sir Richard Worsley in 
1805, the estates came into the possession of his sister, 
Henrietta Frances, who married the Hon. John Bridgman 
Simpson. Their daughter and heiress, Anne Maria Charlotte, 
becune the wife of Charles Anderson Pelham, created Earl of 
Yarborough in 1837. The Earl was founder of the Royal 
Tacht Squadron, and his monument stands on Bembridge 
Down. He kept up a splendid hospitality at Appuldur- 
combe, and interested himself zealously in all that appertained 
to the welfare of the island. After his death, his son, the 
second Earl, removed the chief pictures and ancient marbles 
to his residences in London and Lincolnshire, sold the 
remainder in 1855, along with the furniture, took away or 
shot the deer in the park, disposed of the mansion and 



' 



126 YE5TK0B SIOTION. 

park, and in fiict the greater portion of the property, to 
different persons. The house was for a short time let 
to a company for an hotel. On the failure of the latter 
scheme the mansion remained untenanted for some timie, hut 
has been for ten years, and is now, occupied as a school 
for gentlemen's sons. The house stands on the site of an 
antique building, in which Henry YIII. and his minister, 
Cromwell, were entertained in 1538 by the then owner, 
Richard Worsley. 

Originally there existed here a priory, with a prior and 
two monks, bestowed by Isabella de Fortibus in Henry HL's 
reign on the Abbey of Montebourg. During the wars with 
France it was seized by Henry V. as an alien priory, and 
dissolved. Henry VI. granted it to the nuns of "The 
Minories without Aldgate,** who leased it to the family of 
Fry. Agnes Fry, an heiress, married Sir John Leigh, of 
the Isle of Wight, and their daughter, Anne, convey^ the 
manor of Appulduroombe to Sir James Worsley, with her 
hand. Lady Anne Worsley was one of the last pilgrims to 
the shrine of St. lago at Compostella, once so fashionable a 
resort for English ladies. She carried with her a large train 
of female companions, old and young, some of whom Sir J. 
Oglander had seen and conversed with. 

The Worsleys were a Lancashire family, and Sir James, a 
favourite of Henry VII. and boyish friend of Henry Vin., 
was appointed Captain of the island in 1517. When a 
youth ne had been page to Henry's brother. Prince Arthur. 

On the sunmiit of the down, behind Appulduroombe, 
stands an obelisk of Cornish granite, erected in 1774 by Sir 
Eichard Worsley, in memory of his kinsman Sir Robert It 
was originally 70 feet high, but was struck by lightning in 
1831, and lost several feet of its elevation. The displaced 
stones lie scattered about the base. The view from this 
point is very beautiful. 

On leaving Wroxall village the road winds pleasantly along 
the side of Wroxall Down, making a gradual ascent, and 
commanding a good view across the small valley to the 
Appulduroombe Down and house, Worsley obelisk, and the 
Span and Hew farms and downs. After passing the toll- 
gate, a climb is made to the cemetery, a point formerly 
known as Sloven's Bush (one writer names it Steven's Bush), 
and then a steep descent is made down Ventnor shute, witii 
a glorious prospect of the town of Ventnor close below ; also 
the Steephill Castle, and a grand expanse of sea, the waves 
da.shing on the indented shore as far as Hoody Point. 



A80BNT 07 THB DOWNS. 127 



Ascent of Steepliill, Week, and Appuldurcombe 

Downs. 

The range of downs which runs from the west end of 
Yentnor to Appuldurcombe and the Worsley monument is 
one well worth ascending. The summit is gained with very 
little trouble, and there the stranger may wander at will, or 
ride on horseback, on soft green turf, being braced by the pure 
and invigorating breeze, and obtaining lovely and ever-varying 
prospects. Without any particular natural division, the 
different parts of the downs have obtained separate names, 
which are generally derived from the adjoining farms. The 
part rising from Yentnor on the west side of the Newport 
road is called Steephill Down; to the west of this is Week 
Down, and to the north-west Stenbury Down ; whilst to the 
east is Bew Down, and north-east is Span Down; the 
northern end, on which stands the Worsley obelisk, is 
Appuldurcombe Down, at the base of whidL is situated 
Appuldurcombe house. 

Climbing past the cemetery, up the smooth slope of Steep- 
hill Down, by a bridle path, a fine view is obtained of 
Yentnor, Steephill Castle, and St. Lawrence, with a broad 
expanse of ocean. 

Passing through a hedge at a gate, Bew Down is entered ; 
and on the right gradually appears the Bew and Span farms, 
the vale of Appuldui-combe, with the Wroxall Down, Vent- 
nor Down and coombe and Little Town Down. In front are 
the Worsley obelisk, St. George's and Arreton downs ; and, 
as the traveller proceeds, there rise the Ashey down and 
landmark over the cluster of trees, amidst which stand Cook's 
Castle, and in the distance are observed the sea and the 
opposite coast. 

Crossing a fence on the left to Week Down, the prospect 
opens in the direction of Week farm, and the villages of 
Whltwell and Niton, with St. Catherine's Down, its twin 
lighthouses and Hoy's pillar, prominent ; the downs of Chil- 
lerton and Brixton carry the eye farther west, where presently 
appear the High Down, with the chalk cliffs at Freshwater 
and the Needles ; a hill at St. Albans Head, on the opposite 
coast, appearing in the distance like a cloud. 

Passing through a gate, close to the tel^raph wires. Span 
Down is gained, and a stile and footway are observed leading 
from Wroxall to Whitwell. A doasen yards farther is another 
stile, conducting to Stenbury form, whence a bridle paUi 



128 YENTHOB BBOnOK. 

may be followed to the Hermitage and Hoy's pillar. As the 
traveller proceeds along Span Down the prospect on the right 
wideos and becomes extremely lovely. The Sandown Bay, 
with its red cliffs and the Culver Clififs, has a magnificent 
appearance ; the town of Sandown is in sight, also Cook's 
Castle, Bembridge Down, with its monument and fort, 
Blading Haven, the houses of St. Helens and Bembridge, 
the sea, and the opposite coast in the direction of Chichester 
the spire of the cauiedral being visible on a clear day. 

Leaving Span Down, at a gate in a stone wall the Appul- 
durcombe Down is entered, and the Worsley obelisk appears 
full in front. A gate on the left leads to the farms of Little 
Stenbury and Sheepwash, also to the road from "Whitwell to 
Newport. It is a fine walk hence to the obelisk over 
carpet-like turf, with bracing air, and extensive and charming 
views in every direction. Close below, on the right, is 
Appuldurcombe house and Wroxall village, with the heights 
over which the spectator has just travelled, and the Wroxall 
and St. Martin's downs, and Cook's Castle. In the opposite 
direction are Whitwell and Niton, a strip of sea, and St. 
Catherine's Down, its lighthouses and the Alexandrian pillar. 
Far away to the west may be discerned the coast of Dorset- 
shire, the chalk cliffs at the Needles, and Freshwater. 
Immediately at the feet of the spectator, spread as if on a 
map, is a wide vale, containing the churches of Arreton, 
Newchurch, and Godshill, the latter being very prominently 
perched on the top of a small hill, and forming a pretty 
object, with the houses of the village clustered round it 
Beyond the vale is a long range of chalk hills, including 
Chillerton, St. George's, Arreton, Messly, Ashey, Brading, 
and Bembridge downs. To the north-west of these may he 
seen the church at Newport, Carisbrooke Castle, the towers 
of Osborne house, and Cowes harbour. To the east, how- 
ever, there is the most charming portion of the whole 
prospect, including the towns of Sbauklin and Sandown, the 
noble bay of Sandown, the white Culver Cliffs, the Brading 
Haven, the Solent, and the opposite coast. 

A descent may be made direct to Appuldurcombe house, 
and Yentnor readied by a road passing Span and Bew farms, 
and the cemetery ; thus making the walk from Yentnor to 
Worsley obelisk and back 5 miles. From Wroxall the tourist 
might return by train. Another plan would be to descend from 
the obelisk by the precipice known as Gatcliff to Godshill, 
and thence travel in the direction of Whitwell or Newport 



BLAOK GANG TO FBXSHWATEB GATE. 129 

Black Gang to Freshwater Gate, by the Sea Clifib. 

14 miles. 

The coastguard path runs along the brow of the cliffs the 
whole way from Black Gang to Freshwater Gate, and the 
pedestrian will find it a most delightful walk, and not too 
fieitigaing, the ground being tolerably level and composed of 
springy turf covered with short grass. During the journey 
there is always a grand prospect of the sea, the inland view is 
pleasing, and the clifb and breakers on the shore add a special 
charm, whilst pure fresh breezes inyigoiate the traveller an^ 
take away all sense of lassitude. 

The cliffs are gained near Black Gang Terrace, and then the 
path continues close to the edge of the precipice. Presently 
a knoll is reached commanding a fine view of the bays of 
Chale, Brixton, and Compton, and the headlands of Athei^eld, 
Brook, and the Needles, with the Dorsetshire coast around 
the Purbeck Isle ; the varied colours of the sandstone cliffs, 
and the bold white chalk ones in the distance having a fine 
effect, dose by are the Black Gang chine, Bocken End, St. 
Catherine's Down and lighthouse, Hoy*s pillar, the church 
and village of Ghale, and a broad tract of level land backed 
by the chalk downs. The cUffs being perpendicular and lofty, 
it is a fine sight to look over and see and hear the waves 
beating on the shore, the spray being visible for miles. Three- 
quarters of a mile from Black Gang is Walpen chine, a cleft 
in the dark sandstone cliffs formed by a tiny rill from Chale. 
Some distance farther is Ladder chine, which is very narrow. 
Here is a path leading down to the shore, where are a few 
fishermen's boats and thatched huts. A quarter of a mile 
beyond is Whale chine, presenting fine perpendicular walls 
of sand, bare of vegetation-— 

*^ like a mighty gash inflicted by the sword of an Orlando." 

This is the boldest and most picturesque of the chines 
between Black Gang and Freshwater. To cross it the tourist 
must branch inland for a few hundred yards, and gain the 
other side close to the Military road. From Chale this ravine 
may easily be visited by following the road for 1 mile to 
Walpen farm, and then by continuing along a path across the 
fields. Presently fine retrospective views are had of the cliffs 
to Bocken End, with the white-crested breakers thundering 



180 TUITK<MI sBonov. 

at their feet, the sea having here almost always a very heavy 
swell. At Atherfield Point, 3 miles from Black GhiDg, is a 
coastguard station, where there is a fine view of Gbale hay; 
and tibe different layers of the lower greensand rocks are seen 
in heautiful order from Bocken End to the point where the 
Wealden series hegins. 

Soon Chale hay disappears and Brixton bay comes in riew. 
The cliffs, though high, are not so Wild and perpendicular as 
those which have been left, and here and there they subside 
a little, sloping down to the shore with grass-covered monnds 
of clay. In the rear are seen Appuldurcombe Down and the 
Worsley obelisk, to the left of Hoy's pillar. Three-quarters 
of a mile distant is Shepherd's or White's chine. This 
ravine is formed by a stream which rises near Kingston, and 
the banks are composed of dark wealden clay. It is crossed 
by a wooden footbridge a little distance from the shore. 
There are two or three small houses near, and some 
fishermen's huts on the beach. Cowlease chine is soon 
reached, at the head of which the cliffs present layers 
of sandstone of the Hastings series. The stream that fiows 
through Shepherd's chine is said to have formerly entered the 
sea by Cowlease chine, but a shepherd desiring to secure the 
eels which were to be found in the mud at the bottom, cut 
through the soft and narrow barrier which divides the ravines 
and diverted the water, with the full intention of restoring 
the stream to its old bed when he had filled his creels, but 
heavy rains coming on, the brook soon deepened its new 
channel beyond the possibility of restoration, and has, by 
degrees, formed a new chine, named from its unintentional 
creator, leaving its former course deserted and dry. 

The cliffs are now composed entirely of the Wealden for- 
mation which continues to Compton bay, and although they 
in places present a fine vertical front there is nothing of 
special interest for some distance. Passing Barnes chine, 
which is very small and hardly deserves the name, the Tar- 
barrel Hill is gained, 6h miles from Black Gang, where the 
coastguard have a signal station. Off this point is the dan- 
gerous reef of Shipledge, *' of melancholy notoriety in the 
annals of wrecks — the traditional loss of a Dutch vessel in 
this locality has given its name to Dutchman's Hole^ where 
to this day, at particular states of the tide, when a gronnd 
swell has laid the rocks bare gold coins are found." Beyond 
the signal station is Grange chine, where there are two 
or three houses and a li£el»at. The arches by which the 



BLACK OANO TO FBB8HWATEB OATB. 131 

Military road spans the ravine are observed a short dis- 
tance from the coast. A road runs from the head of the 
chine to the village of Brixton, situated at the base of the 
downs, 1 mile distant. Three-quarters of a mile from Grange 
chine is Chilton chine, where there are fishermen's boats; 
and 2 miles farther is Brook bay, and chine. Brixton, 
Mottistone and Brook downs are on the right; and 
in front the Gompton, Afton, and Freshwater clifiis, which 
have been in sight ever since leaving Black Gang, now pre- 
sent a fine bold front In Brook bay is a lifeboat, a coast- 
guard station, and some cottages. 

Koundiog Brook Point the pleasant and secluded bay of 
Gompton is skirted. Here the Freshwater bay and the white 
chalk cliffs present a noble appearance. Gn passing Gompton 
chine, a small and narrow but deep crevice, the ascent of 
Gompton or Afton Down is commenced. The path can be 
followed which runs as near to the sloping edge of the cliff as 
it is safe to venture. A few yards higher is the Military 
road. There is a fine view of Gompton hkj and Brook Point, 
and beyond is St. Gatherine's Down presenting a picturesque 
appearance. The perpendicular chalk cliffs in front rise ma- 
jestically from the water, and beyond are the Needles and the 
Dorsetshire coast. The cliffs upon which the tourist is tra^ 
veiling descend hundreds of feet, and as the traveller ap- 
proaches Freshwater Bay he will stay for a moment to read 
the following sad memorial inscribed upon a stone that stands 
upon the slope of the down a few yards from the brink of the 
precipice : ** In the midst of life we are in death. E. L. M., 
aged 15. He cometh forth like a flower and is cut down. 
He fleeth also as a shadow and continueth not. Jesus said, 
' I am the resurrection and the life.' Erected in remembrance 
of a most dear and only child who was suddenly removed 
iuto eternity by a Ml from the adjacent cliff on to the rocks 
beneath, 28th August, 1846. Header prepare to meet thy 
God, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth." 
Freshwater Gate now comes in sight close by and is found 
to be a delightful place, with pleasant villas and two large 
hotels close to a charming little bay. 



K 2 



182 YEKTNOB BEonoir. 



Black Gang to Freshwater Gate, by tlie Seashore. 

14 miles. 

The shore for some miles to the west of Black Grang is so 
tedious to walk along, being composed of a thick shingly bed 
of small rounded pebbles in which the foot sinks at every 
step, that few will think of undertaking the task. The clifs 
are, however, so magnificent, and present such a bold and 
picturesque front, that those who undergo the fatigue Of the 
journey will be amply rewarded, and to the geologist the 
vralk will be especially interesting. On no account must an 
attempt be made to bathe near Black Gang, the back draught 
being very strong and extremely dangerous. *' The surf winch 
beats on this coast in stormy weather very much reminds one 
of the Madras surf, and is as impracticable to boats as is its 
prototype ; indeed it may be doubted if even the peculiar 
make of the Massoulah boat would save it from destruction 
when a fresh breeze from the south-west occurs. It may be 
as well here to warn visitors against approaching too near the 
breaking waves, even when only exhibiting their ordinary 
grandeur. After bursting, they rush up the beach to some 
distance, and the back draught is so powerful as to throw 
down an individual who may be taken by surprise, and whose 
footing upon the loose shingle is necessarily so uncertain as to 
render him but ill able to withstand its force. Should a 
wave overtake a person in this manner, during tempestuous 
weather, he would probably be dravm into the boiling surge, 
and almost certain destruction would be the result. A 
providential escape occurred in the sunomer of 1848 to a lady 
resident near the spot She was walking with a female 
friend along the shore, far removed as they imagined from 
the dangerous influence of the waves, when one, bursting 
with more than usual violence, dasbed up to them, and bore 
away the lady above alluded to, in its retiring surge. Her 
struggles to escape so horrible a death were not those of an 
unnerved person, 'but of one who could, even at sudi a 
moment, call all her faculties to her aid ; her struggles for 
existence, however, were in vain, and certain death appeared 
before her. With equal heroism and judgment her com- 
panion, instead of rushing immediately to her aid, and in- 
volving the loss of her own life, watched the opportunity 
of the return of a wave of less force than the others, ran 



BLACK GANG TO VRBSHWATEB GATll. 183 

to her assistance, and by an almost saperhuman effort sno- 
ceeded in rescuing her now almost lifeless friend, and in 
placing her in safety on the cliff above. Persons who may 
l>e thus overtaken by the waves are not always so fortimate 
as the lady just mentioned, as the following anecdote will 
sliow: One Sunday morning, in 1844, some lads were en- 
gaged in picking up oranges which had been washed on shore 
iix>m a wreck in the neighbourhood, and, while thus occu- 
pied, one of them, a fine young man about nineteen years 
of age, was overtaken by a wave, carried out a short dis- 
tance, and within ten minutes cast up at the feet of his 
liorror-struck companions a lifeless corpse." 

Leaving the dsurk sand and mud cliffs on the west side 
of the diine, with the ever-shifting landslipsi presenting a 
scene of wild ruin, the cliffs for three-quarters of a mile 
are high and vertical, with pieces often tumbling from 
above, so that unless the tide be ebbing it is not safe to 
attempt the walk, and even then the traveller ought not 
to keep too near the precipice. Passing Walpen chine, a 
small recess in the dark sand cliffs, there are a few boats 
and huts perched on a grassy ledge close to the narrow 
opening of Ladder chine, where a path ascends from the 
shore. One mile from Black Grang is Whale chine, a wide 
and deep aperture with high perpendicular walls of sand, 
which gradually narrow and run some distance inland. A 
stream flows through it, over blocks of clay and sand- 
stone. In front is Atherfield Point, and the coastguard 
station on the top of it, and in the distance the chalk difEs 
of Freshwater, with the Needles and opposite coast of Dorset- 
shire, whilst in rear are Black Gang and Bocken End. It 
is delightfid to hear the deep roll of the ocean, and to see 
the silvery spray curling along the shore for many miles. 
At Atherfield Point there is a noble retrospective view of 
Gbale bay and St. Catherine's Down, and then appears in 
front the bay of Brixton, with its Ipw red-clay cliffs, and 
more distant the white chalk cliffs of Freshwater. 

Half a mile from Atherfield Point are huts and fishing 
boats, and a few yards fieurther are Shepherd and Cowlease 
chines. The shingle here is so heavy that the traveller 
would do well to ascend the cUfb and continue on the top for 
some distance past a signal post to Grange chine, where the 
sands become smooth and hard and pleasant to walk upon. 
A ledge of hard red clay stretches out for some distance into 
the sea, forming the perilous reefs of Bull Bocks. Passing 



184 TXNTNOB BIfiOnOtf. 

Chilton chine, and the huts and boats at Sndmore, Grab 
Point is rounded and Brook bay entered. Here the rearward 
view is lost, but the white cliffs of Compton and Freshwater 
again come in sight, and present a striking oontrast to the 
r^-sand cliffs we have left behind. At the west side of 
Brook bay is Brook Point, separating it from Compton bay. 
Here, at low water, the tourist will find fossil wood on the 
shore, and there is also some on the coast side of Compton 
bay. Mantell says, *' the accumulation of fossil trees at 
Brook -Point evidently originated in a raft composed of pro^ 
trate pine forest, transported from a distance by the river 
which flowed through the country whence the Wealden 
deposits were derived^ and became submerged in the sand 
and mud of the delta, burying with it the bones of reptil^ 
mussel shells, and other extraneous bodies it had gathered in 
its course." 

Compton bay is a beautiful spot, open, but qiiiet and 
secluded, with a long stretch of firm smooth sand, suitable 
for bathing, and boimded on the west by high chalk clifOa. 
The bay is interesting alike to the lover of the picturesque 
and to the man of science. Sir Charles Lyell writes : *' The 
section from Compton chine to Brook is superb. We there 
see at one view the whole geology of the district, from the 
chalk with flints down to the battel beds, and all within an 
hour's walk. This is so beautiful a key, that I am at a loss 
to conceive how so much confusion has arisen." The fort 
and hotel at Freshwater Gate are in sight, but cannot be 
reached by the shore as the sea washes against the high 
rocks on the west end of the bay at all states of the tide. 
The traveller must therefore ascend near Compton chine, 
and walk along Afton Down by the path described at page 
131. 



( 1^ ) 



FBESHWATEE SECTION. 



PSESHWATES. 

The Freshwater district is the extreme western part, and 
contains some of the most beautiful and magnificent scenery 
in the Isle of Wight. It is bounded by the little river Tar, 
and has narrowly escaped being formed into a separate island, 
for the source of the stream is within a few yards of the sea 
at Freshwater Gate, the waves having, it is said, in stormy 
weather, burst over the narrow ridge of division and mingled 
with the fresh waters of the river head. The stream, after a 
winding course of less than 4 miles, forms a broad tidal 
estuary, and empties its waters into the Siobnt, close to the 
town of Yarmouth. In a map of the island, pablished in 
1610, this pemnsula is marked the *^ Isle of Freshwater ; " 
and in 1629 a proposal was made to- government to convert 
it into a place of secure retreat for the inhabitants and their 
cattle in the event of an invasion of Wight by a foreign foe. 
it was to be insulated by'cutting through the neck of land at 
Freshwater Grate, and the passages were to be secured by 
drawbridges and batteries. These solidtations, however, 
were answered only by &ir words and promises. 

Almost equidistant between the two seas are the church 
and village of Freshwater, where a bridge crosses the river. 
The church is a very old edifice, and it ]^s recently been re- 
stored at a cost of over 30002. It is not narticularly inter- 
esting to the stranger, but in the graveyard it is astonishiiig 
to note the number of headstones of very old people*->many 
of the ages recorded being between ninety and one hundred 
years, a fact which goes a long way to prove that this part of 
the isle is more healthy than any other. The famous 
natural philosopher, Dr. Bobert Hooke, was bom at the 
rectory in 1635. He was a great improver of the pendulum, 
and one of the leading members of the Royal Society, when 
that learned body was founded. Dr. Wood, the well-known 



186 VB18HWATXB 81E0TI0K. 

mathematician, died rector of Freshwater. It is reported that 
when he first went to college he was so poor he was fain to 
work his problems by the light of the stair-lamp, and be 
afterwards adiieyed the high positions of Master of St John's 
and Dean of Ely. 

Freshwater Gate will by many persons be considered the 
most favoured spot on the whole islsuid. The adjacent scenery 
is of the grandest character, a combination of the sublime and 
the beautiful rarely equalled. The little bay is perfectly 
unique, with its pebbly shore and fine chalk clifiEs. Two de- 
tached masses of rock on the eastern side of the cove stand in 
the waves like weird sentinels ; one is known as the Arched 
Rock, and the other as the Stag or Deer Pound Bock. The 
Arched Book is very picturesque, the waters having worn a 
natural Gothic-like opening at the base of the mass. The 
Stag Bock is supposed to derive its name from the tradition 
ikat a stag, hard pressed by the hunters, leaped upon it from 
the summit of the neighbouring clififs. These heights have 
undoubtedly in recent years been greatly wasted by the waves, 
for the Military road is now partly gone, although it was, 
when made, many yards from the precipice. It is not pos- 
sible to walk round the rocks into Gompton bay owing to the 
sea washing the base of the cliffs for a few yards at all states 
of the tide. In the cove are a few boats and bathing ma- 
chines, also a small marine bathing house. There are two 
large hotels, Lambert's Freshwater Say Hotel and the Albion 
Hotel, the former being delightfully situated on the slope of 
the down, and exceedingly comfortable. These hotels are 
in the hands of one proprietor. At a little distance are 
various lodging houses, and Stark's Family Hotel. Overlook- 
ing the bay is a small fort containing seven guns and less 
than twenty soldiers. It was completed in 1856, and is con- 
structed principally beneath the surface of the ground. 

At Freshwater Gate there formerly stood a small inn, 
called *'The Cabin," a &vourite resort of smugglers and 
hardy fishermen. Here, in 1799, Gkorge Morland vras a 
frequent visitor. He enjoved the rough company and intro- 
duced them into many of his best sketches. His picture of 
the '* Taproom " is a faithful representation of the interior of 
this hostelry. From the romantic scenery of the neighbour- 
hood he derived subjects for his ''View near the Isle of 
Wight," "View of the Needles," "Fishermen," "The Smug- 
glers," " A Storm piece," « The Castle," " Sea View from the 
Isle of Wight and Freshwater Gate, at moonlight^ with a 



A WALK OYBB THB HIQH DOWN. 137 

group of Smugglers.*' On one occasion while he was sketch- 
ing at Yarmouth with two friends they were arrested as 
spies, and a report of their capture forwarded to General Don, 
then commandant of the military forces of the island. They 
were removed, well guarded, to Newport, where, after exami- 
nation hefore the magistrates, they were set at liberty. Mor- 
land often related his island adventures wiih boisterous glee. 
Half a mile west of Freshwater Gate is Faringford house, 
the residence of Mr. Tennyson, the Poet-Laureate, whose name 
in future y(iars will be for ever associated with the island. 
The grounds, though near the road, are very secluded, being 
surrounded by a tluck fence and high trees, and few visitors 
will so far forget themselves as to intrude in any way on the 
privacy of the poet. Mr. Tennyson thus describes the place 
in his invitation to the Bev. F. D. Maurice : — 

" Where, fiir from noise and smoke of town, 
I watch the twilight falling brown 
All round a careless-ordered garden. 
Close to the ridge of a noble down. 

'* Tou'U have no scandal while you dine. 
But honest talk and wholesome wine, 
And only hear the magpie gossip, 
Garrulous under a roof of pine. 

*' For groves of pine on either hand 
To break the blasts of winter stand ; 
And farther on the hoary Channel 
Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand." 



A Walk over the High Down to Scratchell's Bay^ 
The Needles, and Alum Bay. 

The High Down is the noble chalk hill which extends from 
Freshwater Gate to the Needles, a distance of 4 miles. It is 
490 feet high, and presents along the whole length of its 
southern side a magnificent perpendicular wall of white cliffs, 
rising from the ocean to a height of 400 feet; whilst on its 
summit is soft green turf, and on the north side a smooth 
verdant slope. Although not so lofty as some of the other 
downs, its isolated character, its bracing atmosphere, its grand 
mural precipice, and the glorious prospect of sea and land 
obtained from every part give it an air of proud superiority, 
and make it the special fovourite of those who are imbued 



138 FBBSHWATEB 0IOTIOK. 

with the spirit of the true monntaiDeer. The grounds of 
Faringford, screened by trees from public view, are separated 
from this mountain mass merely by one or two fields. As 
the stranger glances across to ihe little smnmer-honse and 
the secluded mansion of the Poet-Laureate, he will not need 
to be reminded that the down on which he is standing is the 
favourite resort of the author of * In Memoriam,' and ^ The 
Idylls of the King ' ; and he will probably feel that to the 
spirit of the place the poet is indebted for much of his in- 
spiration. 

Following the path for a few yards in the rear of the hotd 
the cliffs are gained close to the fort Here there are Tinblea 
wide extent of sea, the Gompten and Brook bays, and in the 
distance St. Catherine's Down, Nearer are Afton, Gompton, 
Dunsbury, and Brook downs. There is also a prospect across 
the level land to Freshwater church, Yarmouth, iiie Gt>lden 
Hill fort, and the Hampshire coast. The most interesting 
view is that of Watcombe bay, close below the spectator, and 
the fine picturesque cliffisi of the High Down, with the sea 
dashing at their base. 

A path will be observed descending the face of the rock 
into Watcombe bay, a charming little cove with caverns and 
detached mass of chalk tunnelled by the waves, a favourite 
resort of those staying at Freshwater Gate who are fond of 
seclusion, and the wild beauties and sublimities of nature. 
Pleasant it is on a moonlight night to stroll from the hotel, 
enter this recess, and have an hour's commune with the voices 
from the boundless deep. 

Ascending the smooth green turf for two or three hundred 
yards, until a fence is reached, a fine view is obtained of a 
long stretch of the cliffs, which present a bold appearancfl^ 
the spray curling amongst the large blocks at their feet. In 
the rear the eye ranges along the lovely coast past the white 
eliffs of Alton Downs to t^ Gompton, Brook, Brixton, and 
Ghale bays, as far as Bocken End, and St. Catherine's Ciown. 
Beyond the latter is. Week Down, and nearer the Brook 
and Dunsbury downs. There is also an extensive prospect of 
Freshwater, Tannouth, the river Yar, the Solent, and the 
opposite coast. Following the path marked by ihe small 
romps of chalk, placed l^ the coastguard as guides when 
dark or misty ; or keep a little nearer the precipice, where 
vantage points may be obtained for overlooking the cli£Gi» 
which are here composed of chalk interlined with dark layers 
of flints, snnetimes horizontal and at others at all an^es, and 



A WJOK OYBB THS HIGH DOWN. 189 

present a pleasing and varied appearance. Perhaps the best 
plan is to bend to the right a little after passing through the 
^noe, and then a point overlooking Faringford is quickly 
gained, where there is a charming view of the whole of the 
Freshwater district ; the hamlets, mansions, and forts, 
glancing firom amidst the trees, or standing on the elevated 
ground. The town of Yarmouth is a prominent object, 
and there is a lovely view of the Solent, and Christ- 
church bay. Hurst Castle, and the opposite coast which is 
visible for many miles on either side of Lymington. The 
pure healthy breeze always to be had on this down, the 
freedom to run about anywhere on the smooth sloping 
surface, the magnificent and attractive views to be had by 
varying the position, all combine to fill the traveller 

" . . . . not only with the sense 
Of present pleasure, but with pleasing thoughts 
That in this moment there is life and food 
For future years." 

On a fine sunny day the view of Freediwater, the Solent, 
Christchurch bay, and the opposite coast are perfectly en- 
chanting and fairy-like. Those who remain some time in the 
neighbourhood ought to ascend the hill to view the various 
effects of the scenery at different hours of the day, morning, 
noon, and evening ; also, if possible, on moonlight and star- 
light nights. 

Near the edge of the precipice slight hollows have been 
formed here and there by the sinking of the cliffs, owing to 
their being undermined by the waves, and there are warm 
secluded nooks commanding views of the cliffs and the 
coast to Kocken End. On arriving at the top of the down, 
where is a beacon now only used as a kmdmark, on a clear 
day the opposite coast is visible, with the waves dashing on 
the shore, past Pool bay to the isle of Purbeck, the low chalk 
cliffs there, which are in a straight line with those of the 
Needles, being apparently as well defined as if close by. 
In the opposite direction are Compton, Brook, Brixton, 
and Ohale bays, with the headlands of Brook, Atherfield, 
and Bocken End. There is also in sight a long range of 
hills, including Alton, Compton, Dunsbury, and Brook downs, 
with Castle Hill and other small hills on the right, also 
St. Catherine's, Week, Appuldurcombe, and Wroxall downs. 
To the north of these is a wide extent of level land and 
the coast to Gurnard Bay. Near the spectator are Fresh* 



I 



140 VBBSHWATBB SSOTIOK. 

water, Tarmonth, Headon Hill, the houses direcily aboYe ( 
Alum bay, a wide stretch of sea, the lovely Solent^ and the 
opposite ooast from Purbeck Me, past Poole bay, Christ- 
church bay. Hurst Castle, Lymingtou, and New Forest to 
SbuthamptoD Water. 

From the beacon, by descending to the edge of the predpioe, 
a point is gained commanding a superb view of the cliffs over 
which the traveller has passed, with the Stag Rock in the tiny 
bay of Freshwater Gate, the Compton cli&, and the ooast 
stretching away to Rocken End. Here, in a slight hollow of 
the down, the Main Bench cliffs in front burst into sight, and 
present a wall of chalk rising from the waves hundreds 
of feet, and beautifully streaked with horizontal layers of 
flint. If the tourist keep slightly on the north side of the 
down, away from the cliffs, he will gradually lose sight of 
Freshwater, and then Alum bay is visible with the hotel in 
the hollow between the High Down and Headon Hill. Hurst 
Castle becomes prominent, and the opposite coast with the 
Solent is very charming. The down here, sometimes called 
8t. Christopher's, ends abruptly in a precipice overhanging 
ScratchelFs bay, and on the north side of this bay a strip 
about 40 yards wide of the down, juts a few hundred yards 
into the sea, with a fort perched upon it, and in advance of 
this point are the Needles rocks, four wedge-shaped isolated 
cliffs of chalk ranged in a straight line due west, varying from 
40 to 100 feet in height, with the sea rushing between them, 
and at the western extremity of the farthest rock is a light- 
house. 

Descending to the rails close to the fort, a peep is had over 
the precipice on the left into ScratcheU's bay, a wonderfully 
attractive and weird-like spot. The chalk cliffs, forming a 
semicircular cove, rise to a great height and are beautifully 
streaked with thousands of curved lines of thin parallel layers 
of flints. At the base of the cliffs is a small sandy shore, and 
a large arched recess in the rocks adds a charm to this secluded 
nook, which may justly lay claim to be considered the most 
magnificent and striking spot on the island. A narrow 
winding track descends the steep face of the steep declivity 
to the shore of the cove, but few dare to track its course. 
Occasionaliy persons will do so with the assistance of one 
of the gunners resident at the fort. 

By changing the standpoint a few yards, and overlooking 
the precipice on the right, a charming view is had of Alum 
bay, with its beautifully ^coloured cliffs. 



ALUM BAT. 141 

Should the tourist gain admission * to the fort, which con- 
tains six 230-lb. guns, weighing 12 tons each, he may walk to 
the edge of the tapering headland, and striding on ground 
two or three yards wide, with a shear descent on either 
hand, have a view close below him in front of the four rocks 
'which compose the Needles. The name of these rocks has 
no doubt been given to them owing to their needle-like sharp- 
ness, but it has usually been traced to the lofty conical pin- 
nacle, about 120 feet high, which became undermined by the 
waves and fell in 1764, with a concussion said to have been 
felt many miles. 

' From the fort, the Alum Bay Hotel, 1 mUe distant, is 
reached by a road running in a romantic manner on the north 
slope of the down, a few yards above the chalk cliffs. When 
near the hotel the richly coloured sand cliffs in Alum bay, 
along with the white chalk cliffs terminated by the Needles, 
and Qie lighthouse produce a fine effect. At low spring tides, on 
rare occasions, and with the chance of a ducking, it is possible 
to walk along the boulders at the base of the cliffs under 
the fort, and around by the Needles into Scratchell's bay. 

Descending from the hotel by a winding path, Alum bay 
is reached in two or three minutes. Here is a small pier for 
landing passengers from steamers, a few boats, one or two 
bathing machines, and a wood hut used as a bazaar, where 
may be purchased glasses filled with coloured sands from the 
adjoining cliffs, arranged in various designs. The shore con- 
sists of smooth hard sand and ia well adapted for bathing. 
The spot is most lovely and secluded. The Needles present 
a fine aspect and from them the bold chalk cliffs stretch for 
three-quarters of a mile by the side of the down, whilst in 
the distance is seen Purbeck Isle on the opposite coast and 
the waves are observed dashing on the shore in Christchurch 
bay. iThe Alum bay cliffs are indescribably picturesaue 
and beautiful, being weathered and worn into innumerable 
miniature gullies and peaks which stand out boldly and assume 
fantastic shapes, in places presenting the appearance of a 
miniature Alpine region in all the brilliant colours of the 
rainbow. 

In Worsley's * History ' we read that the bay derived its 
name from the native alum found there, and tiiat in 1561 
Queen Elizabeth granted to Bichard Worsley, Esq., the 

* Permission can always be obtained by sending in a card with 
request for an order, to the officer commanding at Golden Hill 
Fort or Cliff End Fort. 



142 FBBgHWATEB SBOTION. 

captain of the island, a wanant to search for that mineraL 
It is said that Wedgwood tried to use the fine white sand in 
his porcelain manufacture, but the experiment was un- 
sucoessful; in late years considerable quantities have been 
taken away for the supply of the glasshouses of London and 
Bristol 

To the geologist the yertical strata in Alum bay is 
supremely interesting. It is of the same character as that 
met with in White Cliff bay on the eastern end of the island. 
** At both places the chalk joins the fresh- water deposits and 
the London clay, and although the strata is strangely dis- 
located and contorted at Headon Hill, thereby presenting a 
different landscape from that of the turf-coveied slopes of 
White Cliff bay, the order of the deposits will be found to be 
the same. In both cases the fresh-water deposits (farthest 
north, forming Headon Hill itself) are the uppermost series ; 
then follow south, the upper, middle, and lower Bagshot beds. 
The fine white sands belong to the upper series. The dark 
clays of the middle series follow, including the strata known 
as the Barton and Bracklesham beds, with solid beds of 
lignite or coal, from 15 to 27 inches thick ; layers of septaria 
or cement stones; and a great variety of fossil shells and 
corals. These are succeeded by the lower series, a succes8i<xi 
of vertical sections of varied and brilliantly coloured sands 
and clajrs. There are no mineral remains in this series, but 
there are frequent beds of lignite and other vegetable matters, 
and one thin bed of pipeclay is crowded with leaves of land 
plants of subtropical genera in exquisite preservation. Next 
come the London clays, or Bognor beds, of dark clay, or sand 
of marine origin, divided by a band of fiint pebbles from the 
plastic clays, consisting of mottled clays without fossils, in 
immediate contact with the chalk. The vari^^ated and 
deeply tinted sands, marls, and clays which render the cliff 
so remarkable, belong to the middle and lower Bagshot series^ 
including the Barton and Bracklesham beds. The variety of 
the vertical layers is endless, and may be compared to the 
vivid stripes of a parti-coloured tulip. On cutting down 
pieces of the cliff it is astonishing to see the extreme bright- 
ness of the colours and the delicacy and thinness of the 
several layers of white and red sands, shale and white saD<^ 
yellow clay and white and red sand, and indeed almost every 
imaginable combination of these materials." 

Sir H. C. Englefield, in his ' Picturesque Beauties of the 
Isle of Wight,' says : •" The scenery of Alum bay is very 



' 



ALUM BAT, li9 

superior in magnificence to that of any other port of the 
island. The chalk forms an unbroken face everywhere 
nearly perpendicular, and in aome parts formidably projecting^ 
and the tenderest stains of ochreous yellow and greenish 
moist vegetation, vary without breaking its sublime uni- 
formity. This vast wall extends more than a quarter of ^ 
mile and is probably near 400 feet in height; it terminates by 
a thin projection of a bold broken ouUine, and the wedge- 
shaped Needles rocks rising out of the blue waters continue 
the cliff in idea beyond its present boundary, and give an 
awful impression of the stormy ages which have gradually 
devoured its enormous mass. The pearly hue of ike chalk 
under certain conditions of the atmosphere and light is beyond 
description by words, and probably out of the power even of 
the pencil to pourtray. The magical repose of this side of the 
bay is most wonderfully contrasted by the torn forms and 
vivid colouring of the clay difb on the opposite side. These 
do not, as at White Cliff, present rounded headlands clothed 
-with turf and shrubs, but offer a series of points of a sort of 
scalloped form which are often quite sharp and spiry. Deep 
ru^ed chasms divide the strata in many places, and not a 
vestige of vegetation appears in any part All is wild ruin. 
The tints of the cliffs are so bright and so varied that they 
have not the appearance of anything natural. Deep purplish 
red, dusky blue, bright ochreous yellow, grey nearly ap- 
proaching to white, and absolute black, succeed each other, as 
sharply defined as the stripes in silk, and after rain the sun, 
which from about noon till his setting in summer, illumi- 
nates them more and more, gives a brilliancy to some of these 
nearly as resplendent as the high lights on real silk. Small 
vessels often lie in this bay for the purpose of loading chalk, 
and they most admirably show the majestic size of Uie cliffs 
under whose shade they lie diminished almost to nothing." 

A Sail from Freshwater Gate to the Caves under 
the main Bench Cliffo, and thence to Scratchell's 
Bay^ The Needles, and Aluni Bay. 

Scratchell's Bay, 3} miles ; Needles, 4 miles ; Alum Bay, 5 miles^ 

This is the most romantic excursion that can be taken in 
the Me of Wight. During the whole of the way the traveller 
passes at the base of the most magnificent cliffs in the island, 
the chalk rocks rising perpendicularly from the sea to a height 
of 400 feet, and being in many places honeycombed by the 



144 FBESHWATXB SSOTION. 

waves into wild caverns. Only at. rare intervals and in fine 
weather can the caves be visited, bat if circumstances are 
favourable, the stranger ought not to miss the excursion, for 
it is one which is in &e highest degree pleasing. The charge 
for boat and two men to Alum bay and back is 108. Those 
who do not care to return by water might land at this bay, 
and have a carriage there to meet them, or walk back over 
the High Down. 

On leaving Freshwater Gate, one or two interesting recesses 
might be visited close by the Arched and Stag rocks, 
beneath the cliffs of Afton Down. In the opposite direction 
the point is passed on the top of which stands the fort, 
and then the charming little bay of Watcombe is reached. 
The cliffs continue to increase in perpendicular height until 
they attain their greatest elevation beneath the beacon on the 
High Down. Ledges, arches, and pillars ocdur on the face 
of the rocks to which fantastic names have been applied, 
and all along the irregular base are caverns, *' where sea- 
monsters might retire to sleep, or tritons come to meditate." 
Neptune's Cave, which is the largest, is said to be 200 feet 
deep, there is Bar Cave 90 feet deep, and Frenchman's 
Hole, the same size, where tradition relates that a French 
prisoner concealed himself, and was starved to death. The 
next darksome recesses are Lord Holme's parlour, cellar, and 
kitohen, named after a governor of the island who, we are 
told, was in the habit of entertaining his friends in this wild 
spot, and where he kept his wines cool and safe. Next come 
in view Boe's Hall, high up in the face of the cliff, the old 
Pepper Bock, a detached mass of du^, and then the tourist 
finds himself beneath the Main Bench, the finest part of the 
range, rising almost vertically to a great elevation, ite white face 
being beautifully streaked with layers of flints running obliquely 
from base to summit These heighte are the resort of myriads 
of sea birds, puf&ns, razorbills, cormorante, gulls, guillemots, 
and daws, sitting during the breeding season tier above tier 
on the &ce of the cliff. The birds are nearly all migratory, 
and only seen here during the summer months. Previous to 
the passing of the Sea Birds Preservation Bill, the eggs and 
feathers were the plunder of t*he country people, who resorted 
to a daring feat in order to obtain them. First, driving a 
strong stake or iron bar into the top of the cliff, near its edge, 
the adventurer secured one end of a rope to it, and the other 
to a piece of wood placed crosswise so as to resemble a rude 
seat. By means of this simple apparatus he descended the 



BOBATOHSLL*S BAT. 145 

front of the precipice, hallooing on his way to scare the birds 
from their holes in the rocks, when the egjes were his chief 
object, but when the feathers were his principal concern, he 
silently secnred his prey as they sat within their nests, or 
seized them in the act of flying from their larking places. 
In the latter case the plumage was his only prize, for the 
flesb of these birds is too rank for human food, though it is 
used as a bait by the fishermen for lobster and shrimp-pots. 
Although apparently so perilous an occupation, an accident 
-was of rare occurrence. There is a story told of a youth who 
had a wonderful escape, when his fate appeared aln:iost hope- 
less. He had entered a recess several feet from the perpen- 
dicular hanging of the rope. While employed in securing his 
footing the rope escaped from his hold, its vibration diminished 
and at every return became more beyond his reach. In this 
emergency, nothing remained for him except to die of starvation, 
or to make a desperate leap to regain the rope ; not a moment 
was to be lost, and on its next revolution he sprang to meet 
it. Happily he regained his grasp, and was drawnup safely 
to the summit of the cliff. 

The Main Bench ends in a stem wave-worn bluff called 
Sun Comer, and then enters a deep hollow curve of extreme 
magnificence, called ScratchelL's bay, boimded northwards by 
the high masses of glittering rocks, so widely celebrated as 
the Needles. Landing in the bav on the strip of shingle, 
the tourist obtains a most wild and striking view, one wMch 
he must travel many miles to match. The lofty cliffs are 
beautifully scored by innumerable layers of flints, and in one 
place has been created a grand arch overhanging the beach in 
a noble canopy of at least 180 feet span, which, though in- 
significant from the water, offers a spectacle of wondrous 
beauty to those who stand beneath it and look out on the 
ocean, "with all its solemn breadth and sparkling points 
rolling away till it seems piled up against the sky.'' There 
is an association connected with this spot which somewhat 
savours of the ludicrous. One John Baldwin, of Lymington, 
having heard his wife threaten "to dance over his grave," 
gave directions in his will that he should be buried out at sea, 
and accordingly his body was submerged in Scratchell's bay. 
Between the bay and the Needles the waves have tunnelled 
a low gloomy cavern, which mns as much as 300 feet into 
the cliff, known as the Needles' Cave. 

From Scratchell's bay experienced boatmen take the 
visitors at high water through the Needles, the grandeur of 

L 



146 vsisawATiB Bionov* 

whose wedge-shaped outlines rising out of the blue waves 
cannot be justly appreciated except from the sea. Englefield 
says : ** The view of the end of the Isle of Wight from the 
Needles at any time is one of the most unoommony and one 
of the most magnificent scenes in Great Britain. Nothing 
can be more interesting, particularly to those fond of aquatic 
excursions, than to sail between and around these rocks. The 
wonderfully coloured cliffs of Alum bay, the lofty towering 
dialk precipices of Scratchell's bay of the most dazzling 
whiteness, and the most elegant forms ; the magnitude and 
singularity of the spiry insulated masses which seem at every 
instant to be shifting their situation, and give a mazy per- 
plexity to the place ; the screaming of the aquatic birds, the 
agitation of the sea, and the rapidity of the tide, occasioning 
not unfrequently a slight degree of danger. All these cir- 
cumstances combine to raise in the mind unusual emotions, 
and to give to the scene a character highly singular and even 
romantic." 

The dangers of the Needles passage have long been felt by 
mariners, but that it is the grandest and most fitting approach 
to £ngland foreigners- unanimously acknowledge. Mr. Rush, 
the American, writes of it enthusiastically : ^ In due time 
we approached the Needles. The spectacle was grand. Our 
officers gazed in admiration. The very men who swarmed 
upon the deck made a pause to look upon the giddy heights 
.. . . There is something imposing in entering England 
by this access. I afterwards entered at Dover in a packet 
from Calais, my eye fixed upon the sentinels as they slowly 
placed the heights. But these cliffs,, bold as they are, and 
immortalized by Shakespeare, did not equal the passage 
through the Needles." 

The visitor may land on the outermost rock and examine 
the lighthouse erected by the Trinity Board, in 1858. The 
view from the lantern is most remarkable, and well deserves 
attention. Previous to 1858 there was a lighthouse above 
the cliffs overhanging Scratcheirs bay, but it was often 
enveloped in mist. 

Having passed the Needles, Alum bey bursts into view, 
presenting at all times a scene of enchantment, but especially 
if the rays of the setting sun fall on its beautifully coloured 
cliffs. Passing a long line of chalk cliffs the bay is gained 
and a landing effected on the shore, directly below the clifb 
and the hotel. 

The sail shquld be continued x>n to Yarmouth. It is most 



THS SHDroLn. 147 

enjoyable o( an evening with a tide, especially if the wind ia 
east, and necessitates standing across to the Shingles. The 
Shingles is the name of a helt of beach running out from 
near Harst (there being, however, a channel between it and 
the mainland) for 3 or 4 miles westward— sometimes there are 
no traces of it, at other times the beach stands out of the sea 
several feet at high water, and parties have had picnics there. 
Three bnoys are placed on the Shingles, and it is almost as 
dangerous a bank as the GKxxlwins, only it is well marked. 
Hurst Castle should be visited, both for a sight of King 
Charles' room, where the king was confined for twentynseven 
days after his seizure by the army at Newport, December 1, 
1648, and the wonders of the modem fort. Behind the Castle 
is picood anchorage. During the sail fine views are obtained 
of Hatherwood Point, which in August and September is a 
brilliant blaze of heather, and the view of Yarmouth, especially 
if the tide is up, is very picturesque. 

A. Walk along the Seashore from Alum Bay to 
Yarmouth, and thence to Gowes. 

The seashore between Alum bay and Yarmouth (5i miles), 
which includes the Tolland and Col well bays, is secluded and 
little visited, though very pleasant, and from every point 
commanding charming views across the sea to the opposite 
coasts of Dorsetshire and Hampshire. 

The walk from Alum bay to Tolland bay, round Hath^- 
wood Point, is rather tedious, the shore being strewn with 
masses of sandstone, clay, and flint ; and unless at ebb tide 
it is not well to attempt it, for the slope from the shore to 
the top of Headon Hill is composed of landslips of soft 
treacherous clay, in which the traveller may find himself^ 
without previous warning, up to the knees in mud. The 
geologist will, however, find the ground specially interesting, 
there being innumerable fossils in the surrounding debris. 
The cliffs are composed of eocene strata deposited on the 
London clay. Mantell says : ** Here the lowermost stratum 
visible on the beach is a pure white sand, which is largely 
exported for the glass manufactories ; this is covered by a bed 
of yellowish clay. A series of variously coloured sands, marls, 
and clays, with layers of friable limestone succeed!. The 
predominating fossils are species of fresh-water genera, but 
there are in some of the beds a few marine and estuary shells, 

L 2 



148 FBESHWATEB BEOTION. 

and a layer of oyster shells similar to one in Colwell bay. 
Within 50 feet of the top of the hill there is a stratum of 
reddish brown and mottled clay with seams of b'gnite ; and 
on this is superimposed whitish sand and marl, with inter- 
stratified layers of concretionary limestone, full of fresh-wato: 
shells. A thick bed of gravel forms the alluyial covering on 
the summit of the hill." 

As the traveller proceeds, the Needles disappear. Hurst 
Castle becomes prominent opposite, and the view opens to the 
Albert fort, a square brick building standing at Cliff End 
close to the water on the farther side of Colwell bay. When 
round Hatherwood Point, Tolland bay is entered^ where there 
are beautifulsmooth sands suitable for bathing, a lifeboat, fishing 
boats, bathing machines, and an old wooden pier, which was 
erected for purposes connected with the building of the Needles 
lighthouse, the granite blocks for the edifice having been put 
together here. On passing the sea-wall in front of Warden 
battery, Colwell bay is gained, which is 1 mile in extent^ and 
bounded on the east by the Albert fort. and Cliff End battery. 
The whole of this bay consints of hard level sand, affording 
excellent bathing ground, and the cliffs are low and composed 
of layers of clay, and sandstone full of fossil shells, and par- 
tially covered with long grass. The air is remarkably pure 
and bracing, and the views across the Solent, including the 
Needles, the Dorset and Hants coasts, and Hurst Castle, are 
truly magical in effect. The wonder is that so sweet and 
attractive a spot should be so little visited. When better 
known it will, no doubt, become a favourite resort. 

The old square brick fort at Cliff End, the Alb^t fort, con- 
tains twenty-nine guns, and is also used as a barracks. 
Betwixt it and Hurst Castle is the narrowest part of the 
Solent, which is here only 1460 yards wide. The granite 
fort recently erected at Hurst Castle, is said to be one of the 
strongest, if not the strongest, in Great Britain. On the top 
of the headland where Cliff End battery now stands, there 
was formerly an old fort call^ Worsley's tower, erected in 
the reign of Henry VIII. by Worsley, the governor of the 
island. On passing Cliff End, Lymington comes in sight 
on the opposite shore, and when the sun is shining on the 
houses it has a pretty effect. Presently the Victoria fort is 
reached, at Sconce Point. It contains about thirty heavy 
guns, and on the ground close by are a number of guns f(»r 
saluting purposes. The telegraph wires here enter tlie island 
from the opposite coast. On the site of the fort formerly 



TABMOUTH TO COWHS, BT BSA-C0A8T. 149 

Stood an old batteiy erected by Sir Oeorge Carey, a governor 
of the island, in place of Worsloy's fort a little farther west, 
i^hich had then fallen to decay. The yiew now opens in front 
to Gurnard bay, th^ Solent having a beautiful appearance, 
"being like a wide river, with vessels of all sizes moving in 
every direction. Yarmouth comes in sight halfa mile distant, 
having a picturesque aspect. The traveller may continue on 
the sands, or on 'the adjoining raised causeway. The cliffs 
have now vanished and been succeeded by villas in the midst 
of richly wooded ground. The river Yar is crossed at its 
month by a wooden bridge, where a toll of Id, is charged, 
and the town of Yarmouth is entered. 

The coast between Yarmouth and Cowes (distance 12 or 18 
miles) is low and comparatively uninteresting, although 
there are always pleasant views across the Solent to the 
Hampshire coast The walk in many places is difficult and 
tedious, the shore being of a soft clayey substance, and the 
low cliffs being compost of similar material covered in many 
plaoes to the water's edge with hawthorn, coppice, and furze, 
and subjeot to innumerable landslips. One and a quarter 
mile from Yarmouth a small pier has been erected, and close 
to it is a board stating — ** Site of Bouldner Pier and hotel." At 
one time it was intended to build a little town here with 
money raised by a limited liability company, but the 
scheme has never arrived at maturity. Four miles from 
Yarmouth the Hampstead cliffs are passed, which have especial 
interest for the geologist owing to their being the highest 
members of the eocene strata to be found on the island. 

Instead of continuing close to the shore the traveller would 
do well to ascend close to the pier aud walk along an ill- 
defined path through the whin and along the top of the 
Bouldner and Hampstead cliffs, where the view is very fine. 
The cliffs are continually slipping, and exhibit a series of 
landslips and terraces, which, when seen from above, especially 
if it be winter, and the wind K.E., with the sea a sickly 
olive-green, give an idea of utter desolation, the ground 
crumbling at the spectator's feet, and presenting the appear- 
ance of a glacier of dirt below, which moves seawards, and 
carries with it fences, whin, and whole trees. 

Two miles farther, the inlet of Newtown is reached. Here 
are oyster beds and old disused salterns, also brickyard, 
and coastguard station. The other side of the bay must be 
gained by a boat, a boatman generally being at hand to ferry 
the traveller across. The ground between Newton and Cowes 



150 VBISHWATSa SIOTIOK. 

(S miles), though not presenting any marked features for some 
distance, gradually beoomes more agreeable for walking 
exercise. The Thomess bay is skirted and then the Gurnard 
bay is passed (see page 189) and Cowes entered by the loTely 
grounds around Eg3rpt House and the Green. 

Headon Hill. 

Headon Hill is the height on the north side of Alum bay. 
The country people sometimes speak of it as the itablnt 
Warren» On the side overlooking the hotel is a small fort 
mounting half-a-dozen guns. The hill may be ascended in a 
few minutes, and though not lofty it commands an extensive 
and beautiful prospect The eye ranges past Yarmouth and 
the hamlets at Freshwater across an extent of level land to 
Hampstead Hill, Parkhurst Forest, and the towers of Osborne 
house ; the range of vision being bounded on the south by 
the heights extending from Wroxall Down, past Brook, 
Dunsbury, and Afton downs. Close at the feet of the spec- 
tator are the Oolwell, Tolland, and Alum bays, with a noble 
ridge of chalk clifBs extending to the Needles, whilst over an 
expanse of ocean are Parbeck Isle, Poole bay, and Christ- 
church bay. The Solent is here extremely lovely, with 
vessels walking its waters like things of life, and the opposite 
side affords a pleasant prospect of winding shcves^ studded 
with houses, and richly clothed with wood. 

Alum Bay to Yarmouth^ by the Boad. 

4 mileti. 

The road between Alum bay and Yarmouth commands 
lovely and extensive prospects. Soon after leaving the hotel 
the Needles and Alum bay disappear, and the paUi turns to 
the left round Headon Hill, and attains high ground, with a 
view of Afton and Brook downs, and a wide extent of the 
north-west jpart of the island. The Golden Hill fort hides 
Yarmouth, but there is visible a long stretch of the Solent, 
with Christchurch bay. Hurst Castle, Lymington, and the 
New Forest ; nearer are the Warden and Cliff End Imtteries, 
and the Tolland and Colwell bays. The traveller passes 
Tolland church, the Tolland and Colwell hamlets, and over 
gorse-clad ground with the prospect of one or two batteries 
perched on the cliffs to the left, and On the right the hamlet 
of Norton Green, and the Golden fort the latter well 



TABHOUTH. 151 

meriting a visit. When opposite the Golden Hill, Yannouth 
is visible in front, and an excellent view is had of the Solent, 
in one direction to Gurnard bay, and on the other side to 
Furbeck Isle. Passing a road leading to Freshwater church 
and Freshwater Gate, a descent is made to the hamlet and 
wooded villas of Norton, and the river Tar is crossed at the 
bridge, and the town of Yarmouth entered. 

Yarmouth* 

Yarmouth is a small sleepy-looking town, situated on a pro- 
jecting point on the east side of the mouth or estuary of the 
Yar. Formerly it was cut off from the island by a moat, and 
approached by a drawbrido;e. Though small it was in ancient 
times a place of some note, and is said to have been much 
larger than at present, and to have contained seven churches. 
In 1135 Baldwin de Red vers. Earl of Devon, and lord of the 
island, gave it a charter of incorporation, thus creating the 
first municipality in the Isle of Wight. Not having been af« 
fected by the Municipal Keform act it is at present governed 
by a mayor and twelve burgesses, a distinction granted to 
the town by James I. There is still in the possession of the 
mayor a very handsome mace, the gift of King Charles II. 
In Edward I.'s reign it sent a representative to Parliament, 
but this privilege appears to have been suspended until 
the 27th Elizabeth, when it returned two members, and con- 
tinued to do so until it was disfranchised by the Reform Bill 
of 1832. Philip Lord Lisle, the gallant brother of Alger- 
non Sidney, represented it in the Long Parliament The 
number of electOTS rarely exceeded nine, who were the nomi- 
nees of the Holmes family, who sprang from the bluff old 
sea-rover, half pirate, half naval commander. Admiral Sir 
Robert Holmes, ** the cursed beginner of the two Dutch wars." 
He captured New Amsterdam, the name of which, in honour 
of bis royal patron, James, Duke of York, be changed to New 
York. From his prize of guinea gold the first guineas were 
coined, thus leaving a permanent record on our language. 

'* Holmes, the Achates of the general's fight, 
Who first bewitched our eyes with guinea gold." 

thryden^s ' Anntu MirabilisJ 

He was governor of the island from 1667 to 1692, and resided 
at Yarmouth in the Government House, which is now the 
George Hotel, the property of the Holmes family. Here he 



152 nUESHWATES SBOnON. 

entertained Gbarles 11. in 1671 and 1675. He was an Irish- 
man, and in the early part of his life had served under the 
standard of Charles I. and Prince Eupert^ and had entered the 
service of foreign powers, gaining celebrity in France, Ger- 
many, and Flanders. His monument, which stands in the 
church at Yarmouth, is a work of art well worth seeing. It 
is a statue, life size, in complete armour, placed beneath an 
arched canopy resting on heavy Ionic columns of porphyry. It 
is said that the statue was originally intended to represent 
Louis XIV. of France, and was being conveyed by the sculp- 
tor in an unfinished state in a French ship to Paris, in order 
that the head might be modelled from the living subject, 
when the ship was captured by Holmes, who took possession 
of both the artist and his work, and compelled the sculptor 
to receive him as a sitter instead of the Grand Monarqne. 
Another story is that it was part of the cargo of a ship 
en route for France which was wrecked at the " back of the 
island," and that it was finished by an English artist. Cer- 
tainly the execution of the head is inferior to the rest of the 
figure, and the reason must be either that it was done by 
another person, or the Italian artist must have punished the 
buccaneer by finishing it off roughly. 

Jn front of the George Hotel there were formerly some iron 
railings, over which the king held his hands to be kissed by the 
populace. These have lately been removed and are now at the 
back of the hotel, where there is also a very remarkable ooat- 
of-arms, the " winged griffijas,** which the late Lord Palmer- 
ston wished to be removed to the British Museum. They 
are placed over what there can be no doubt was the original 
entrance into the Castle, and are said to be the only ooat-of- 
arms of that period remaining in England. The ground 
forming a square from the castle wall at the quay to Bank 
Street, was evidently at one time government property, the 
Government House, now the George Hotel, having been built 
in the middle of it. " In pulling down recently several old 
houses at Yarmouth, a curious illustration was afforded of the 
* free trade ' propensities of the good burgesses : almost every 
house had secret recesses,' underground passages, and hearth- 
stones which had served as trap-doors ; and some of the hiding 
places still contained spirits, tobacco, and lace, but of coarse 
all was * mouldy for lack of use.* " 

Yarmouth being situated in such an exposed point was 
often devastated by the French. It was wholly burnt in 
1277 and 1524, bnt after the erection of a fort or blockhouse 



TABMOUTH TO RXWPOBT. 163 

in 1537 by Henry YIII., its peace was never again disturbed 
by a foreign foe. The French were over again mnch later, but 
not having time to bum the town, they carried off the church 
bells, which are still to be seen in Cherbourg stamped " Yar- 
month." The fortification erected by Henry VIIL, which is 
standing, contained eight guns until 1862, when it was dis- 
armed by government. On the other side of the Solent, about 
half a mile to the westward, at the head of a projecting point 
of land, was erected another blockhouse called Hurst Castle, 
where Charles I. was afterwards imprisoned. Upon its site 
has recently been built, as we have already observed, one of 
the strongest forts in England, in connection with the plan 
for the protection of Portsmouth. 

' The church is worth a visit. It was erected in 1614, par<* 
tially restored 1831, and more completely in 1873. .Besides 
the Holmes monument and chapel, there is the clepsydra, or 
water-glass, at least its frame, which used to be fixed on the 
old oak pulpit. Both it and the pulpit were sold at the last 
restoration, but the clepsydra was rescued from destruction 
by ihe landlord of the bugle, who was then church warden, 
and who had it refixed on one of the pillars. It is a great 
rarity, and said to be the only one in England. The lectern 
also is well worth seeing, being of very elaborate workmanship, 
and enriched with jewels, as are the books. Older churches 
which had existed in the town had been destroyed by the 
French. 

Steamers sail regularly between Yarmouth and Lymington, 
which stands directly opposite on the other side of the Solent, 
and also at stated times to and from Cowes, Ryde, and Ports- 
mouth. There is also at Yarmouth a good supply of safe 
rowing and sailing boats, and few places are better adapted 
for aquatic excursions. In the Bugle Inn is a fine collection 
of birds, fossils, and curiosities of the island, collected by the 
landlord. 

Yarmouth to Newport, by Shalfleet. 

10 miles. 

This journey is one of the least interesting on the island. 
On leaving Yarmouth the road runs past the common, and for 
half a mile pleasantly by the side of the Solent sea with fine 
views across to Lymington and the New Forest, and on the 
right the inland prospect ranges to the south-western chalk 
downs. Presently the road trends from the shore and runs 



151 7BE8HWATBB SSOTIOK* 

through a flat tame coantry, past Ningwood Common to 
Shalfleet, with Hampstead height on the left, and in one or two 
places a glimpse of the Newtown estuary. The pedestrian 
may add to the interest of the journey hy leaving the road 2 
miles from Yarmouth, and walking to the left over Ningwood 
Common to Hampstead, thence by a bridge over Niugwood 
•creek to Shalfleet. 

The church at Shalfleet is an interesting structure, chiefly 
on account of its massive Norman tower, which appears as 
though it had originally been a keep or stronghold, and the 
other parts of the building added at a later date. It is now 
surmounted by a wooden spire, the cost of which was raised 
by the sale of the bells, and the gun belonging to the church, 
and in allusion to this transaction there is an old distich which 
says: 

" The Shalfleet people, poor and simple, 
Sold the bells to baild the steeple." 

According to tradition, the church was built by William 
Fitz-Osbert. The tympanum of the north doorway is filled 
up with a curious sculpture which puzzles antiquaries. It is 
said to be a figure of the Saviour ; others think it represents 
David contending with the lion and the bear ; and some main- 
tain it is the effigy of a bishop or priest, resting his hands on 
two heraldic griffins. Inside the church are two monumental 
slabs, each bearing the spear and shield of some unknown 
warrior of the eleventh or twelfth century. One was found 
beneath the floor of the south aisle, and the other beneath the 
floor of the nave near the pulpit. 

A few yards beyond Shalfleet a road branches to left and 
leads to Newtown, 1 mile distant, which was once the capital 
of the island, a corporate town with its mayor, burgesses, and 
common seal, and a parliamentary borough returning two re- 
presentatives, until disfranchised by tlie Reform Bill in 1832. 
It is now a small straggling village, with a church and a score 
of houses. It is a quiet rural place, with pleasant leafy lanes 
and orchards that still by their names, High Street, Gold 
Street, Quay Street, Draper's Alley, &c., tell of more prosperous 
times. The small townhall is the only relic of the old town. 
It was built in 1699, and formerly contained some cariotis chairs, 
and the silver mace of the time of Edward IV., which, together 
with the corporation seal, have now been removed to Swains- 
ton. The old oak table is at Yarmouth, llie church, being 
dilapidated, was rebuilt in 1837, its outlay having been defrayed 



HEWTOWK. 165 

from the pit)ceeds of the mnnicipal property — ^the last act of 
the expiriDg corporation. The ancient name of the place is said 
to have been fWicheville (or the free taum). It was de- 
stroyed by the Danes in 1001, and again by the French in 
1377, during the reign of Richard II. After the latter devas- 
tation it was rebuilt and called Newtown, but does not appear 
to have ever regained its former prosperity, although, in 
1585, it was of sufficient importance to have bestowed on it 
the privilege of sending two members to Parliament. 

The first charter was granted by Aymer, Bishop of Win* 
cheater, lord of the manor, and was subsequently confirmed 
by several monarchs after the manor had passed from the 
prelate to the crown in the reign of Edwanl I. It held a 
weekly market and annual fair of three days* duration under 
a charter granted by Edward II. to his son Edward IIL when 
Earl of Chester. 

Two generations ago this fair was kept up with some traces 
of its former glory, and was locally known as Newtown 
Randy. The 22nd July (St Mary Magdalene) was then a 
great occasion for the usually quiet little hamlet. Old folks 
still living (and in Newtown ninety and upwards is no un- 
common age) remember how on this day the two sides of the 
road leading from the Court-house were lined with booths 
for the sale of hosiery and other less useful commodities ; 
and their fathers told of the time when the main street of the 
borough was crowded with horses brought for sale; but the 
fair has long ceased to exist, and now lives only in the re* 
collection of a generation which will soon have passed away. 

The borough was represented in 1678-81 by John Churchill, 
Esq., who became Duke of Marlborough, in 1705 by the hero 
of Vigo Bay, Admiral Sir Thomas Hobson, a native of the 
Isle of Wight. Canning at the commencement of his political 
career, when first brought into Parliament by- Pitt, sat for 
this borouorh in 1793 ; for which he was again returned Vk 
1806 and 1807. 

Newtown is situated close to a broad estuaiy or haven, and 
has the best natural harbour in the island, the depth being 
sufficient to float vessels of 500 tons. The estuary is now 
rented by a company, which has gone to a considerable expense 
in forming ponds for the breeding of oysters, and the 
undertaking seems to have been fairly successful. It is worth 
noting as an example of the increase in price of such com* 
modities, that whereas a few years ago excdlent oysters migh^ 
be had at Newtown for two shillings or half-a-crown a 



156 FBESHWATXB 8X0TI0ir. 

hnndred, the company sells them at twelve shillings a 
hundred on the spot. On the east side of the estuary are 
Borne salterns which were worked until within the last few 
years. The salt was ohtained hy allowing the sea-water 
to run into square shallow pools or pans, where it was 
exposed to the sun and wind, and changed from pan to pan 
six times successively. When the work of evaporation bad 
gone far enough, the hrine was pumped up into large iron 
pans in which the remaining water was thrown off by 
hoiling, and the salt then crystallized. Close to the salterns 
ia a coastguard station. Some trout fishing may he had in a 
small stream which rises at Galboume and flows into the 
Newtown river. 

From Shalfleet the road runs through an uninteresting dis- 
trict, the whole of which was formerly included in Parkhurst 
Forest, the earliest recorded rojal park, appearing as the King's 
Park in Domesday Book. Most of the forest was enclosed in 
1815, a portion being reserved by the crown as a nursery for 
dockyard timber, which now contains principally Scotch fin 
and young oaks. In ancient times the park contained 3000 
acres, and extended from the Medina to Newtown river, and 
from the chalk downs to near the Solent. Many of our 
sovereigns visited the island in order to have the pleasure of 
huck-hunting in this park. 

Leaving Carisbrooke in the hollow on the right, and Park- 
hurst barracks on the left, the Gowes and Newport road ia 
entered close to the poorhouse or house of industry, and 
there, turning to right, a descent is made down Honey Hill 
to the town of Newport, 

Freshwater Gate to Newport, by Calbouxne. 

11 miles. 

Entering the road on the right close to Stark's Hotel, the 
traveller presently emerges from the wooded ground, and has 
an open view across the fields to the fort at Freshwater Gate, 
the High Down, and Afton Down. After passing Afton 
house, the residence of B. Cotton, Esq., and Afton farm, and 
through a tollgate, where a road branches to left for Tar- 
mouth, the view in rear becomes very pleasing, and includes 
the High Down, Headon Hill, the Golden fort, the houses 
and trees around Freshwater, the town of Yarmouth, the 
Solent, and the opposite coast in the direction of Lymington« 
Three miles from Freshwater the rearward view is lost, and the 



OALBOTJBNX. 167 

scene opens in front to the Brook and Brixton downs, and the 
Newtown estuary ; but there is nothing of particular interest 
until Calboume is reached, 6 miles from Freshwater Gate. 

The village of Galhoume is situated at the base of the 
Chalk Down, in a pleasant wooded ravine through which flows 
the Gaul-Bourae streamlet. The village inn, the Sun, offers 
comfortable but modest accommodation. Being out of the 
ordinary route of tourists, the spot is little visited, although 
it is perhaps the most delightful district to be met with in 
the interior of the island. Beautiful sylvan scenes are on 
every side, but especially around the noble mansions of 
Swainston and Westover; and close at hand to the south 
and east rises a range of downs which may be quickly 
ascended, and views obtained embracing the sea on each side 
and a wide extent of hill and dale. A road, known as Lynch 
Lane, leads from the village by Calboume Bottom and over 
the downs to Brixton, 3 miles distant. 

A church existed at Calboume anterior to the Norman 
Conquest, but the present building does not appear to be of 
later date than the thirteenth century. The tower is massive, 
and was evidently built for defence. It is surmounted by a 
wooden spire. The transept and porch were erected, and 
other alterations made by Sir R. Simeon in 1836. The 
transept is used as a mortuary chapel of the Simeon family. 
A window and a monumental brass are worth the attention of 
the stranger. 

Near the village is Westover^ a large mansion pleasantly 
situated on a gentle eminence overlooking a beautiful inter- 
mixture of wood and lawn. The south front has a Doric 
colonnade in the centre, with verandahs above and on each side 
of it. The manor, formerly a possession of the Dillington's, 
was sold by one of the Urry family to Lord Holmes, and so 
descended to Sir Leonard Worsley Holmes, whose daughter 
and heiress married, in 1833, the Hon. William Ashe A'Court, 
eldest son of the Earl of Heytesbury, and the present proprietor 
of Westover. Thii^ gentleman thereupon assumed the name 
and arms of Holmes. He represented the Isle of Wight from 
1837 to 1847 on Conservative principles, and succeeded to 
the earldom of Heytesbury on his Other's death in 1859. 

Sufainaton, the seat of the Simeon family, stands li miles 
east of Calboume. It is a large mansion, deUghtfully situated, 
and occupies the site of an ancient palace of the bishops of 
Winchester. Some slight remains are yet to be traced of the 
chapel attached to it in former times. The manor was granted 



158 FBESHWATEB SKOTIOK. 

by King Egbert, 826, to the bishops of Winchester, and they 
afterwajnls, probably in exchange, resigned it to Edward I. 
It was once visited by Edward 11., and he granted it to his 
sister Mary, a nun of Ambresbnry, but the king subsequently 

gEkve it to his son Edward III., tiien Earl of Chester, whom 
e had recently invested with the lordship of the island. 
Edward IIT. bestowed it on William de Montacute. It after- 
wards belonged to Warwick, " the king maker," " false, flect- 
ingy perjured Clarence,*' and his daughter Margaret Pole, 
Countess of Salisbury ; and passed by marriage to the Bar- 
ringtons and Simeons. Sir John Simeon represented the 
island in Parliament from 1847 to 1851, in the Liberal interest, 
when he resigned on becoming a convert to the Roman Ca- 
tholic faith. After his resignation he was re-elected, and re- 
presented the island to the day of his death. The present 
baronet, Sir BMiington Simeon, is a member of the Church 
of England. 

Leaving Calboume there is a good prospect across to the 
Newtown river, the Solent, and the opposite coast of Hamp- 
shire ; and then the road runs through the pleasant Wooded 
grounds of Swainston, with the mansion on one side, and on 
the other a summer-house with a Doric portico. After making 
a slight ascent there is a striking view of the north-western 
part of the island, with the Solent appearing like a broad 
river stretching between the spectator and the shores of 
Hampshire. Qq passing through a deep cutting on the slope 
of Apes Down the geologist will be interested in seeing dis- 
played in the sections the same formation as is developed 
m a more striking manner in Alum bay, the chalk being on 
one side of the road, and the dififerent coloured clays on the 
other. • 

The road continues on high ground the whole of the way to 
Carisbrooke, with an extensive prospect. Gradually appear 
the towers of Osborne house, the ParKhurst Forest, the houses 
on Stapler's Heath, the houses and churches of Carisbrooke 
and Newport, and the cemetery on Mount Joy ; but the Castle 
is hid by the Alvington Down, until the traveller is within a 
few yards of it. Then the whole scene has a very beautiful 
effect. After a steep descent the road runs through Caris- 
brooke to Newport. 



rBKSHWATBB GATS TO 0ABI8BB00KB. 159 



Freshwater Gate to Oariiibrooke and Newport) 
along the tops of the Downs* 

13 miles. 

This is one of the most charming excursions on the island. 
The downs from every point command extensive and beauti- 
ful prospects, and the pure breezes, fresh from the sea, com- 
bined with the fine air of the hills, will invigorate the traveller 
and impart elasticity to his step. A rugged cart-road runs 
for many miles along the summit of these downs, which, with 
trifiingexpense, might be made into an excellent carriage-road 
from Freshwater Gate to Garisbrooke, and in this way the 
attractions of the island might be infinitely increased. Those 
who neglect having a scamper on horseback over the smooth 
grassy slopes of these hills miss a delightful treat. 

The ascent of Afton Down is made direct from the hotel in 
the bay, up a gradual slope along smooth carpet-like turf, and 
at every step the view expands with good effect, and in- 
cludes the English Channel, the chalk clifS of the High Down, 
the river Yar, the trees and houses extending past Freshwater 
to Yarmouth, the Solent sea, and the opposite coasts of Hamp- 
shire and Dorsetshire. Passing the numerous mounds or 
barrows which are seen on the slopes and tops of this and the 
neighbouring hills, the traveller will be reminded that they 
are burying grounds of the aboriginal inhabitants of the 
island, who would appear from the choice of such picturesque 
spots lor their long sleep to have had a keen relish for the 
grandeur and beauty of nature. On passing through a fence 
at a gate and gaining the summit of East Afton Down, where 
are two large barrows and other smaller ones, there is a lovely 
panorama. Close below are the noble cliffs of the High Down, 
the houses and church of Freshwater embowered in trees, 
and the river winding its short course to the small town 
of Yarmouth. In front of the chalk cliff of the High Down 
is a broad field of ocean with the breakers thundering 
at their base, and on the other side is the beautiful fluvial 
Solent, with the opposite coast stretching in a sinuous course 
for many miles from the St. Alban's Head to the mouth of 
Southampton Water ; the low ground around the New Forest^ 
Lymington, and away into Dorsetshire, being visible for 
many miles. The white houses on the opposite sides of this 
belt of sea, with sails of every kind of craft on its bosom, pro- 
duce a pretty effect, and Hurst Castle, with its low winding 



160 ^BESHWATEB SBCTIOK* 

promontory, by appearing to join the two coasts, gives to the 
waters the aspect of an inland lake. A wide level tract of the 
north-west part of the island is spread to view, with the New- 
town estuary, bounded by the Parkhurst Forest. On the 
opposite side, close to the spectator's feet, the white spray of 
the waves is seen in Comptou and Brook bays, and away along 
Brixton and Chale bays, past Atherfield to Bocken End and 
St. Catherine's Down. 

Presently the Freshwater district disappears, but there are 
beautiful views on either hand embracing wide areas of land 
and sea. Close below, on .the right, are seen the secluded fanna 
of Compton and Dunsbury. Following the wire fence, which 
runs for some distance on the summit of the hill in a straight 
line from west to east, and divides the Compton and Tapnel 
downs, the summit of Dunsbury Down is soon gained, where 
are six barrows, five of which being visible from the village 
of Brook, the people call the down the Five Barrow Down. 
The slope on the north side is known as Shalcombe Down. 
The scenery from this elevation is of the same lovely nature 
as that just described from Afton Down, with the exception 
of the houses of Freshwater, which are hidden from view. 
There are now also seen Shalfleet chiurch, Calboume village, 
the Brook Down, and the Mottistone and Brook churches. 
The English Channel on one side, and the Solent and Hamp- 
shire coast on the other, present a perfect picture. 

Descending the hill the road is crossed leading from Brook 
to Freshwater and Yarmouth, and a steep ascent is made up 
Brook Down, with Chessel Down on the left. On gaining the 
furze-clad summit of the hill, where are two large barrows, 
669 feet above the sea, the highest point on the west end 
of the island, the prospect is extensive and beautifuL The 
Freshwater Cliffs and the High Down, stand forth boldly, and 
beyond them is the opposite coast at Purbeck Isle, Poole Bay, 
and Christchurch Bay. At Hurst Castle and Yarmouth, 
commences the Solent, with both its shores studded 
with houses and trees, as far as Southampton Water, 
Calshot Castle, Portsdown hills, and the houses at Southsea ; 
in the latter direction are the towers of Osborne house. On 
either hand is a wide level tract of the island, with hamlets, 
farmsteads, and cottages. In front are Brixton, Week, and 
St. Catherine's downs; and on the right the boundless 
ocean. 

Passing through a fence at a gate and entering Mottistone 
Down, a view of the Longstone is had on the ri^h^ by bending 



A WALK OH TBB DOWXB, 161 

from the tract a dozen yards, and close to it is a cottage 
-with a small pond adjacent ; still farther below, on a line 
with the stone, is Mottistone church and village. Brixton 
village is also seen, and in the hollow to the north of the hills 
is Calbourne. On descending Mottistone Down the road is 
crossed which runs from Brixton to Calbourne, and then an 
ascent is made along a cart-road up Brixton Down. On the 
left is a hollow called Calbourne Bottom. On the top of 
Brixton Down, just past a small gravel quarry, the path 
divides. The left hand is the shorter way to Carisbrooke. It 
skirts the head of Calbourne Bottom, and commands a view of 
St. Catherine's, Week, Wroxall, Arreton, Ashey, Brading, 
and Bembridge Downs, and the top of the Culver Cliffs. 
Presently a long streteh of the Solent appears, with the New- 
town estuary, Southampton Water, the north-west part of the 
island, and the opposite coast from Purbeck Isle to near Ports- 
mouth. The Freshwater Cliffs and the High Down are also 
in sight. The Westover mansion is a prominent object below 
on the left. The spot which the traveller is passing, used to 
be known as the Gallibarrow Bush, but the bush is now a 
thing of the past. In the Newbam Bottom, on the left, and 
in the Bowborough and Westeourt bottoms on the right, are 
rows of distinct pit-holes, which are considered by antiquaries 
to be remains of ancient Pictish villages. Near a wire fence 
the path enters the fields, and by keeping the top of Bow- 
combe Down, along a track that is supposed to be the remains 
of a Soman road, a direct descent may be made to Carisbrooke 
Castle ; or down one of the long deep lanes on the right, into 
the road leading from Shorwell by Idlecombe and Plash to 
Carisbrooke and Newport. Bowcombe Down was ascended 
in 1618, by Charles I., then Prince of Wales, to take a survey 
of the island. The views from ite summit are very beautiful 
and extensive. 

Those who enter the right-hand road on the summit of 
Brixton Down will leave Westeourt Bottom, with its traces 
of a Pictish village, on the left, and presently pass through a 
gate and enter Lemerston Down. Here is a fine view of the 
Freshwater Cliffs in rear, and in front St. Catherine's Down, 
with its three monuments. Week, Appuldurcombe, and 
Wroxall downs ; the tops of the Culver Clif& : the Bembridge, 
Brading, Ashey, Messly, and Arreton downs ; with Stapler's 
Heath, Carisbrooke Castle, the nunnery. Mount Joy, and the 
towers of Osborne house. When through another gate Che- 
verton Down is entered, the view down the Idlecombe vale 



162 nuBSHWAiiB sioiKur. 

to Garisbrooke Castle baring a pretty effect In tbe liollow 
on tbe right will be seen Nortb <^art and Sborwell cburch and 

Tillage. 

OiOBsing tbe road from Sborwell to Garisbrooke, tbe Che- 
▼erton and Bowboroogb iannB are seen below on tbe left. 
Wben past Lorton copse, and a patcb of enclosed land, tbe 
smooib open Down of Newbam is entered, close to tbe £uin 
of tbat name, wbicb stands in a seclnded combe on tbe rigbt. 
Tbere is a magnificent panorama of tbe north-eastern part of 
tbe island. The whole of tbe yale where Grodsbill cbnich is 
situated is in sight, bounded by tbe St. Catherine's, Week, 
Appuldnrcombe, and Shanklin downs ; tbe sea, tbe CnlTer 
Cuffs, tbe Bembridge, Brading, Ashey, Messly, Aireton, and 
St George's downs. There are also the towers of Osborne, 
strips of the sea, and tbe opposite coast in the direction of 
Cowes and Soathsea. Leaving ChillertonDown on the right, 
and bending to the left, the traveller will have a fine walk on 
the smooth top of Ghmson Down, which commands a beanti- 
*ful prospect extending from St. Catherine's Down round to 
East Cowes, and all the intermediate valleys and bills, with 
tbe Solent and tbe Enelish Channel. It is little known, but 
it is certdnly one of the finest views on the island. From 
the north end of Ganson Down there is also a lovely and ex- 
tensive prospect, embracing all tbat has been named, akxng 
with a charming picture, including Carisbrooke Castle, village, 
and church; the nunnery and cemetery on Mount Joy; 
Stapler's Heath, Osborne, East Cowes, Gurnard Bay, and the 
Medina river, with the Solent and opposite coast Descend- 
ing to Ganson farmhouse, a deep narrow lan^ known as 
Love Lane, which is very cool and pleasant in summer, leads 
direct to Carisbrooke Castle and the nunnery ; the traveller 
emerging from the shade at the point where the road runs 
from the latter to Gatcombe. 



( 163 ) 



COWES SECTION. 



OOWES. 

CowxB is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river 
Medinc^* on the shore of the Solent, directly opposite 
Southampton Water, and is the chief port of die island, 
and the head-quarters of the Koyal Yacht Squadron. 
Steamers from Portsmouth, Hyde, and Southampton, csUl 
many times daily throughout the year, and also during the 
summer months from Yarmouth and Lymington. The har-w 
boor has usually an animated appearance, and the town, 
when approached from the water, has a pretty effect, many 
of the houses being built on well-timbered ground rising in a 
gentle slope from the shore. The stranger, who has been 
thus favourably impressed by the general view of the place, 
will be slightly disappointed on landing ; for the streets are 
narrow, t£ere are no buildings of any architectural pre- 
tensions, and the town^ except ^at the height of the yachting 
season, has fewer visitors than most of the other watering- 
places on the island. But though Gowes is not so attractive 
to the general tourist as Ryde, or the towns at the '* back of 
the islsmd," it can boast of having often among its visitors 
a greater number of the nobility than any of its rivals. This 
• is owing partly to its proximity to Osborne house, the 
favourite marine residence of the Queen ; but more especially 
to the excellent anchorage afforded by the waters of the 
Solent and the Medina, which have made it the natural and 
principal yachting rendezvous. The yachting season lasts 
from May 1 to November 1 ; a regatta takes place annually 
on August 21 and two following days, when a plate of the 
value of 100 guineas, given by Her Majesty, is competed 

* The houses on the west side of the river are known as West 
Cowes, and those on the east side as East Cowes : the communica 
tion across the estnary of the Medina, here about 600 yards broad, 
being by steam-ferry. 

M ? 



164 . oowBS SBonoK, 

for. The town owes much of its prosperity to the ship- 
building yards, where some hundreds of men are employed 
in making yachts, lifeboats, and small vessels of our own and 
foreign navies. Large men-of-war have also at times been 
built here. 

Gowes, which now contains a population of 7500, and 
is such a suitable port for the island, was of little note in 
ancient times, for most vessels being then small and of light 
draught, were able to sail with the tide up the Medina to 
Newport. The earliest record of it dates from 1340, during 
the reign of Edward III., when East Gowes (then known by 
the name of Shamblord), Ryde, and Yarmouth, were the 
only places at which persons were allowed to enter or leave 
the island during the threatened invasion by the French. 
Gowes (East and West) may be said to derive their exist- 
ence, as we are told they do their name, to the construction 
by Henry VIII., in 1540, of two round forts for the defence 
01 the coast, one on the eastern and the other on the western 
Iside of the mouth of the Medina river, which Leland speaks 
of as: 

" The two great Cowes that in loud thunder roar. 
This on the eastern, that on the western shore, 
Where Newport enters stately Wight." 

East Gowes Gastle, formed out of the ruins of a religious 
house which] existed on the spot, has entirely vanished, but 
no vestige remains, although its site is still known as " Old 
Gastle Point." West Gowes Gastle was built with materials 
brought across the Solent from Beaulieu Abbey. It was 
found a convenient place of confinement for Ghannel pirates, 
and was subsequently used as a state prison. Sir William 
Davenant, Shakespeare's godson, is said to have been confined 
here by the Parliament in 1651, and to have dated thence a 

Sortion of ** Gondibert." It was under a covemor until the 
eath of the late Marquis of Anglesey, who held the office 
and used to reside within its walls during the yachting 
season. The members of the Royal Yacht Squadron lease 
it from the Grown, and have fitted it up as a clubhouse. 
Previously they occupied the adjoining building, now the 
Gloucester Hotel. The castle mounts a semicircular battery, 
used merely for saluting purposes, but the aspect of the 
building is by no means attractive or picturesque. 

Glose to the castle is the Marine Parade, and a rather 
formal-looking block of houses, built by the late Sir Ghajries 



oowBs. 165 

Fellows, the antiquary and traveller, who lived near the 
town. From the Parade the entrance of the Medina river, 
with the shipping, and the houses and trees of East Gowes, 
present a pretty effect Across the Solent are seen Eagle- 
burst and Galshot castles, Southampton Water, Stokes &y, 
and a stretch of the Hampshire coast. A path close to the 
shore leads past the Castle, and for a few hundred yards 
'westward, to the Green, a delightful plot which slopes to the 
beach, and is used as a public promenade and recreation 
ground, having been presented to the town by a resident, 
Mr. R. Stephenson, nephew of the great Robert Stephenson, 
the engineer. It is provided with seats, an elegant drinking 
fountain, and an orcnestra. On one side are charming villas 
embowered in trees, whilst on the other a fine view is com- 
manded across the Solent to the New Forest, Eaglehurst, Gal- 
shot, Southampton Water, and thence to Stokes Bay, and 
away past Spithead. A few yards beyond the Green are 
haths and bathing machines, and an excellent beach. So 
far back as 1760 Gowes was a favourite bathing place, to 
which a bard thus alludes : 

*' No more to foreign baths shall Britain roam, 
But plunge at Cowes, and find rich health at home." 

Gowes being in the parish of Northwood its ecclesiastical 
buildings are modem, and possess little interest. St. Mary's 
church, on the top of the hill, built in 1653, and consecrated, 
but without a dedication, in 1662, is remarkable as one of 
the few episcopal churches built during the Gommonwealth. 
The " hideous " tower, erected in 1811 by the famous archi- 
tect Nash, is used as a mausoleum for the Wards. The 
family seat is the adjoining mansion Northwood Park. The 
church was partly rebuilt in 1867, and then received its 
present name. 

Holy Trinity church, situated near the water, in a promi- 
nent position on the west cliff, was founded in 1832, and has 
recently been improved by the addition of a chanceL 

St. James' church, at East Gowes, in the parish of Whip- 
pingham, is a plain Gothic edifice, after the designs of Nash. 
The first stone was laid by the Princess Victoria, Sept. 6th, 
1831, whilst residing with her mother the Duchess of Kent, 
at Norris Gastle. In 1870 the building was enlarged and a 
stained-glass window inserted at the cost of Lady Gort, and 
it was re-consecrated by tiie Bishop of Winchester. 



166 OOWXS SXOTIOK. 

There are also in West Gowes places of worship belonging 
to the Roman Catholics, Independents, Wesleyan and Primi- 
tire Methodists ; and others in East Cowes. 

Hotels. 

Gloacester, on the Parade, West Cowes. 
Marine „ „ 

Dolphin, High Street „ 

Vine „ „ 

Fountain „ „ 

Globe, on the Parade „ 

George, High Street „ 

Commercial „ „ 

£ast Medina Hotel, East Cowes. 



Slatwoods; Norris Oastle; East Oowea Castle; 
Osborne House; Whippingliam Church; and 
Northwood Church. 

After crossing the river to East Cowes, by the steam-feny, 
the tourist may proceed along the wide public carriage-way 
which ascends direct to East Gowes Castle, and to the gates 
of the Osborne estate (and goes thence to Whippingham, 
and Ryde or Newport), passing through the beautiful sylvan 
grounds known as East Cowes Park. This is an extensive 
plot of land which some unfortunate speculators once purchased 
with the view of forming a pleasant towu, botanic gardens, 
and picturesque villas. During the ascent through the Park 
charming retrospective views are had of West Cowes, the 
Medina river, the Solent, and the Hampshire coast. 

Those who desire to see Slatwoods^ will, after crossing the 
ferry, proceed to the left-hand along a promenade close to 
the estuaiy, and pass the buildings of the Trinity Board, and 
the Coast Guard, the Queen'^ private landing place, the East 
Medina Hotel, and the small barracks, where a few soldiers 
are billeted during her Majesty's sojourn at Osborne. When 
at the end of the promenade a pleasant shaded road is 
entered on the right, and then Slatwoods is observed on the 
left, an old plain villa, surrounded by shrubberies. This will 
be looked at by many with especial interest, for it was the 



KOBBZB OASTLS, 167 

birtliplaoe of tliat great and good man. Dr. Thomas Arnold, of 
Rufiby, '* the regenerator of public school education in Eng- 
land, who first taught preceptors to look upon their pupils as 
moral and spiritual beings, with characters to be moulded, 
and souls to be trained ; the most truly great name in the 
annals of the Isle of Wight" He was bom June 13th, 1795 ; 
bis father was coUector of customs at East Gowee. " Slat- 
i^oods," he writes to his sister ** was deeply interesting. I 
thought what Fox How would be to my children forty years 
hence . . . . , but Fox How cannot be to them what Slat- 
i^oods is to me, the only home of my childhood." Dean 
Stanley records, in his biography, that " slips of a great willow 
tree, remaining here, were transplanted by Dr. Aroold succes- 
sively to TAlehain, Rugby, and Fox How." 

Proceeding a few yards farther. East Cowes Castle is seen 
on the right, and on the left the top of the towers of Norris 
Castle is visible ; then the grounds of Osborne house are 
skirted, and the lodge gates are passed. 

Ecut Cowet Cdsde is a handsome castellated edifice, the resi- 
dence of Dowager Viscountess Grort. Nash, the &yourite archi- 
tect of George IV., who built Regent Street, erected it in 1798 
for his own residence. Englefield says : " It is most fortimately 
situated, and commands the best view of the Medina of any 
spot in the nei^bourhood." 

Norris Cast^, with its ivy-mantled towers, has the aspect 
of sn ancient baronial residence. It stands in a delightful 
and commanding position, in the midst of woods on rising 
ground which slopes to the shore of the Solent As the 
grounds are kept strictly private it can only be seen to advan- 
tage from a boat on the sea. Englefield writes : " It commands 
a view of the Solent superior in beauty to any other point in 
the island. To the east, Portsmouth, (arowded with shipping, 
is in full view ; and the richest line of the woody coast of the 
island from Barton to Nettlestone, appears in long and varied 
perspeetive. To the north, the Southampton river is seen to 
its whole extent, and the town of Southampton, with its 
spires and towers, though at 10 miles distance, is no incon- 
siderable object. The woods of the New Forest clothe the 
view to the west, while Galshot Castle on the point of its 
long bank of shingle, stands boldly out amidst the waves, and 
marks the separation between the Solent sea and Southampton 
river. The house is of a very noble general form, ana its 
clustering towers in every point of view, particularly when 
seen from ttiQ sea, form a commanding ooject, and a most 



168 cowxB saonoK. 

splendid addition to the general scenery of the coast" It 
was built in 1799, for Lord Henry Seymour, from designs by 
Sir J. Wyattville, then Mr. Wyatt, in imitation of an ancient 
castle. Greorge IV. was entertained here by Lord Henry 
Seymour in 1819, and in 1831 and 1832 it was for a time 
the residence of H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent and her present 
Majesty, then Princess Victoria. The Dachess of Kent again 
occupied it in the summer of 1859. The estate was more than 
once submitted to public auction without finding a purchaser. 
On one occasion it was bought in at 20,000Z. After remaining 
in hand for a long time, it was sold, it is said, for considerably 
less to its present proprietor, Robert Bell, Esq. A stout sea- 
wall has been built in front of the grounds, and this makes it 
impossible for strangers to see the Castle by walking on the 
shore. 

Osborne AotfM, the residence of Her Majesty the Queen, is 
kept strictly private, and strangers are never admitted within 
the grounds. Its two square towers are prominent objects 
from many points of the island, but the rest of the building 
is almost entirely screened from view by the surrounding 
trees, and there is no way of seeing the front of the edifice 
except by boat from the Solent, or on the voyage between 
Gowes and Ryde. Her Majesty appears to have a great 
attachment to the place, which probably arises from the 
fact that when here she can throw away many of the cares 
of state, and what must often be the tedious monotony of 
etiquette, and retire as it were into private life, and enjoy 
the unobtrusive love of her subjects. When sojourning here. 
Her Majesty almost daily drives out, with only one or two 
attendants ; and the inhabitants on those occasions have the 
good taste to show their respect without any undue in- 
trusion. Probably it was the recollection of happy days 
spent at the adjoining mansion of Norris Castle, in 1831 and 
1832, during her girlhood, that caused the Queen to look on 
Osborne as a suitable residence. In 1840 the estate and a 
plain old mansion which then existed there, were bought from 
Lady Isabella Blachford. The estate has been enlarged by 
later purchases until it now comprises 5000 acres, stretching 
in one direction from the high road between East CoweSs and 
Newport to the wooded inlet of King's Quay, and in the other 
from the shores of the Solent to near Newport. A considerable 
portion is under cultivation, and the soil, naturally poor, 
has been greatly improved by drainage and other measures 
adopted by the late Prince Consort, who took great pleasure 



06B0EN1 HOUSll. 169 

in agricultural experiments. The lodges and the cottages 
for labourers, dotted over the estate, are very neat, and 
schools have been erected for the education of the children. 
In 1845 the old house was pulled down and the present 
mansion built, from the designs of the late T. Oubitt, 
assisted, it is said, by the Prince Consort. The style is 
Domestic Italian, and it consists of a basement, with two 
stories above, surmounted by a cornice and balustraded 
parapet. The western wing contains the royal apartments, 
and stands altogether in advance of the main portion of the 
palace. At its rear is the principal entrance, and also a 
massive flag-tower 107 feet in height. An open corridor 
extends along the whole north-west front of the building, 
and a clock-tower 90 feet high occupies the south-eastern 
comer. The rooms are crowded with objects of taste and 
vertu ; sculptures by our most eminent artists, rare specimens 
of the modern painters, and all the refinements which a 
coltivated taste could suggest. The gardens are arranged in 
terraces, with a lawn sloping to the water's edge, where 
there is a small pier for Her Majesty's convenience. Here 
the Emperor, Napoleon III., landed on his visit to the 
Queen in 1857. 

The manor of Osborne in old times is said to have been 
called Austerboume, or OysterbOume, from the oyster beds 
of the Medina. Others derive the name from East Bourne, 
or the Eastern Brook. Another supposition is that it was 
named after William Fitz-Osborne, the lord of the island, 
who is said to have given the neighbouring church of 
Whippingham to the abbey of Lire, in Normandy, soon after 
the Conquest. Whatever be the origin of the name, there is 
clear evidence that the manor was long held by the Bower- 
mans, an island family, and after changing hands it was 
purchased in the reign of Charles I. by one Eustace Man, 
who, according to tradition, buried a large sum of money, 
during the civil wars, in an adjacent wood, still known as 
*• Money Coppice," and not marking the spot was never able 
to recover his treasure. Mr. Man's granddaughter and heiress 
married a Mr. Blachford, whose son erected the house which 
was standing when Her Majesty purchased the estate. 

On the Osborne estate, a short distance south of the 
palace, stands Barton farmhouse, the residence of the 
Queen's principal steward. Here was formerly a small 
Augustine convent or oratory, some traces of which are 
visible. The monastery was founded in 1282, and endowed 



170 OOWBS SBOnOlTi 

with the manors of Whippingham and Barton. In 1439 it 
was surrendered to the See of Winchester, and its lands 
granted by the Bishop to Winchester Collie, to which they 
belonged nntil the sale to Her Majesty. When the religions 
foundation was suppressed a picturesque gabled mansion, 
known as Barton tkmrt house, was erected, and in recent 
renovations great care has been taken to preserve its prindpal 
features unaltered. Hassell, writing in 1790, tells ns the 
chapel remained, used as a wool war^ouse, and tiie primnpal 
rooms were handsomely panelled in oak. It had a few yean 
previously been the usual residence of Lord Clanricarde, 
Not far from Barton farm is a neat Swiss cottage, where the 
princesses are said to have been practically initiatBd into 
domestic economy. 

Whippingham ohurehf where the Queen is a frequent 
worshipper, is situated on the east side of the Medina river, 
about li miles from East Gowes. It is reached by turning to 
the right, after passing the entrance gates of the palacci the 
hostelry, called the Prince of Wales Hotel, and the toUgate. 
The road leading to it commands an excellent view in the 
rear of West Gowes, the estuary of the Medina, and across the 
Solent to Eaglehurst Castle, the New Forest, Galshot Castle, 
Southampton Water, and Netley Hospital ; whilst in front 
is seen the Medina river as far as Newport and Carisbrooke, 
with St Catherine's, St. George's, ChiUerton, and Brixton 
downs in the distance. 

A church existed at Whippingham at the time of the 
Conquest, which was given by William Fitz-Osbome to the 
Abbey of Lire. A new edifice was erected in 1804 by Nash» 
but this was rebuilt in 1861 by Her Majesty in the Tiansition 
Norman style, with the admixture of some continental 
features. The late Prince Consort devoted much care and 
attention to the building in all its details. '* The tower is 
open to the top of the lantern, which is richly coloured, and 
colour is freely used in other parts of the building. AU the 
windows are filled with stained glass. The chancel is divided 
from the side aisles by a range of small pointed arches, richly 
decorated with zigzag and other moulding, standing on a 
plinth, and forming a screen to the portions of the church 
occupied by Her Majesty and her household." The royal 
pew, which is on the south side of the chancel, contains a 
richly decorated monumental tablet, with medallion bust by 
Theed, in memory of the Prince Consort. The inscription is 
as follows : 



WmPPIKGHAM OHUBOH. 17l 

*<T0 THE BELOVED JSEMOBT 
OF 

FRANCIS ALBERT CHARLES AUGUSTUS EMMANUEL, 

PRINCE CONSORT, 

WHO DEPARTED THIS LITE DEC. 14TH, 1861, 

IS HIS 43rd year, 

* Be thou faithful anto death, and 
I will give thee a crown of life.' 

Sev. ii. 10. 

THIS UONUHENT IB nijAOED 
IN THE CHURCH, ERECTED X7NDER HI8 DXRECTIOK, 

BY 
HIS BROKENHEARTED AND DEVOTED WIDOW, 

QUEEN VICTORIA, 
1864." 

The font, presented by Her Majesty, is also a memorial of 
the Prince Consort, and is after designs by their Royal High- 
nesses, Princesses Christian and Louise. 

On the wall of the church there is a tablet in memory of 
Dr. Arnold's father. 

Close by are the Victoria and Albert almshouses — ^pretty 
cottages — recently erected by the Queen. 

The rectory is pleasantly shaded by trees, and commands a 
beautiful landscape. The grounds slope gently through two 
fields to the river, and on the opposite rising ground is 
Northwood church. ^ The large-hearted Dean of Chichester, 
Dr. Hook, who, as Vicar of Leeds, first taught the Church of 
England how to deal effectively with the huge populations 
massed together in our great manufacturing towns, com- 
menced his clerical life as Curate of Whippingham, of which 
his uncle. Dean Hook of Worcester, was rector." The 
traveller may cross the river by a ferry close to the Folly Inn, 
and return thence to West Cowes by way of Northwood 
church. This is the mother church of Cowes, and was ori- 
ginally a chapel of ease to Carisbrooke, but in the time of 
Henry VHI, it obtained parochial privileges. It contains 
nothing of special interest, except a monument to Bev. Thos. 
Smith, formerly a minister of the parish, who died in 1681, 
which is formed of one entire piece of chalk, 3 feet long and 
4 feet high, curiously carved with a variety of hieroglyphio 
chunctenu Near Northwood, about 1513, was establ^ed a 



172 Gowss SEonoK. 

religions brotherhood, Btyled " Brothers and Sisters of the 
Fraternity of St. John the Baptist." Its existence was of 
the shortest, as the dissolution of the religious houses took 
place soon afterwards. The ruins were standing in the 
seventeenth century, but not a stone is now discernible. 



Newport. 

Newport, with a population of 7976, is the capital of the 
Isle of Wight, and is situated almost in the centre of the 
island, on the Medina, which is navigable up to this point 
To the ordinary tourist the place is of little interest, and 
the vicinity would be seldom visited, were it not for O- 
risbrooke Castle. It is a clean town, with regularly built 
streets, and has an air of quiet respectability. The officers 
and soldiers from Parkhurst barracks, in their gay uniforms, 
enliven the place, and often give it the look of a garrison 
town. On Saturday it is thronged with country people 
attending the market, and the stranger ought if possible to 
select that day for his visit. It is probably older than any 
other town on the island, with the exception of Carisbrooke, 
but it has now few ancient buildings. In the Roman and 
Saxon eras it would most likely be the port for the town and 
fort of Carisbrooke, but there is no historical record of the 
place, until the reign of Henry I, when Richard de Redvers, 
Earl of Devon, and lord of the island, planned the town 
(then called Meda), and it received its first charter from his 
great-grandson and namesake, and obtained continually 
increasing privileges from its subsequent lords. A charter, 
very libersd in its provisions, was given by Isabella de 
Fortibus, and fifteen charters confirming and amplifying the 
same, were granted by various English sovereigns from 
Richard II. to Charles II. They are in excellent preservation 
among the muniments of the borough, and many are 
adorned with portraits of the kings who bestowed them. 
The first charter of incorporation was given by James I., and 
substituted for the bailiff of the town, a mayor, twenty- 
four burgesses, and a recorder. A second charter of incor- 
poration was granted by Charles II., and constituted a 
corporation of mayor, aldermen, and burgesses ; the twelve 
aldermen elected from the twenty-four burgesses. A recorder 
was also appointed. 

In 1377, Newport was captured by the French who had 
invaded the island, and was so ruthlessly devastated that it 



HEWPOBT* 178 

remained imoccapied for two years afterwards. They next 
proceeded to assault the castle of Garisbrooke, but were re- 
pulsed by Sir Hugh Tyrrel with such signal success that the 
localities where the slaughter chiefly occurred were nam^ 
(it is said) by the exulting islanders Node (or Noddies') Hill, 
and DecbcCmarCs Lome, Newport was again set on fire by the 
iPrencli in the reign of Edward IV., when its church was 
injured. It was almost decimated by the plague in 1582« 
and two following years, when the captain of the island, Sir 
Edward Horsey, was one of the victims. The road to Garis- 
'brooke was blocked up by the dead carts, and so crowded 
n^as the burial ground, that license was accorded to the 
inhabitants of Newport, to form a graveyard near their own 
church. 

On the outbreak of the civil wars, Newport espoused the 
interests of the Parliament against Charles I., whose cause was 
generally popular with the island gentry and their tenants. 
Puritan rule was established in the town, and having obtained 
the authority of Parliament, the trainbands, assisted by the 
crews of the ships in the river, were marched against Caris* 
brooke Castle, then held by Col. Brett, and the Countess of 
Portland ; and the little garrison surrendered. On Sunday, 
November 23, 1647, Chwrles I. rode through Newport from 
Cowes to Carisbrooke Castle. A month later the peace of 
the town was disturbed by the vain attempt of Capt. Burley, 
a gentleman of good family at Yarmouth, to raise the people 
by the sound of a drum, and the. cry " for God, King Charles, 
and the People ! ^ to march to the castle and rescue their 
lawful sovereign. Few, except women and boys, obeyed his 
gammons ; and the feeble band, which had but one musket 
among them, was speedily dispersed by the soldiers from 
Garisbrooke. The leader was seized, and subsequently tried 
and condemned on a charge of high treason, and executed at 
Winchester, February 2, 1647-8. 

In September and October, 1648, the negotiations between 
Charles and the parliamentary commissioners filled the quiet 
town with bustle and excitement, and made it the temporary 
scene of a mimic court. The king selected the grammar 
school, then recently erected, for his own residence ; the Bull 
Inn (now the Bugle) * was occupied by the commissioners 

* *' The word hugle does not signify the musical instrument 
usually known by that name, but a young oXy bvculus ; in which 
sense it was used in the translation of the Bible in 1551, and 
which Tyrwhit heard was still current in his day in the North. 
The old sign of the inn was an ox." 



171 OOUVnU SSOTIOK. 

from the Parliament, and the old townhall was the theatre of 
the fruitless deliberations protracted for nearly three months. 
The Greorge Tavern which stood on the south side of High 
Street, and has since been pulled down, was the royalists' 
place of assemblage; where, on the night of the 11th of 
October, an affray took place, resulting in the death of two 
royalists, and three of the musketeers who had been sent to 
apprehend the combatants. The conferences b^an, after the 
obseryanoe of a solenm fast by both parties, on Monday, 
October 2, 1648, in the old townhall, then lately built 
The king with his hair and beard prematurely blanched with 
sorrow, hanging dishevelled and neglected, sat under a 
canopy of state, or a raised chair, with his lords in waiting 
and chaplains standing behind ; the commissioners were seated 
on either side of a long table. When the king wished to 
consult his friends, he retired to a private apartment. On 
the 27th of October, the vain discussions terminated and the 
treaty was signed. 

Oharles occupied his apartments at the new grammar 
school for sixty-one days, dating his correspondence " from 
our court at Newport." Here, on the 7th October, he 
touched a young woman for the " evil," who, Oudart in- 
forms us, had the sight of a blind eye immediately restored ; 
and here too, on the 30th of November, he was seized in his 
bed-chamber, a little before daybreak, by emissaries of the 
army, and abruptly removed to Hurst Castle, travelling by 
coach across the island to Worsley's tower, over the present 
Victoria or Sconce Fort, a little to the west of Yarmouth, 
whence he embarked for his new prison. 

On the restoration of Charles IL, Moses Eeid, the mayor 
of Newport, was one of the earliest to recognize tJie new 
order of things, and take the oath of allegiance to the 
sovereign. The corporation maces, which had been altered 
to the arms of the Commonwealth, were sent to London, 
even before the king landed, to have the royal inBigpjft 
replaced, as a visible emblem of loyalty. Perhaps, as a 
reward tor their timely expressions of allegiance, the town 
obtained a new charter with additional privileges horn 
Charles 11., the first year after he regained the throne. The 
subsequent history of Newport contains no events of special 
interest. 

In 1585, during Queen Elizabeth's reign, Newport ob- 
tained the privilege of sending two representatives to Parlia- 
ment, which they exercised till the passing of the Bepie- 



HIWPOBT. 175 

sentation of the People Act in 1867, tinder which one was 
taken from them. The nomination, which was ostensibly in 
the aldennen and burgesses, was really exercised by the 
governor nntil the middle of last century, after which the 
principal patronage centred in the Holmes family. Among 
its representatives have been Lord Falkland (1640), Lord 
Palmerston, G^eral Sir Arthur WeUesley (the Duke of 
Wellington), and the Right Hon. Geoi^e Canning. 

Newport has not been prolific in great men. The only 
names recorded in the rolls of fame are those of the two 
Jameses, uncle and nephew, antiquarian and controversial 
divines, and Sir Thomas fleming, Lord Chief Justice of 
England. 

The elder Dr. Thomas James assisted Sir Thomas Bodley 
materially in the formation of the library at Oxford that 
inmiortaUzes the latter's name, and of which he was the first 
keeper, in drawing up, in 1605, the original catalogue. His 
nephew Robert did like service to Selden, in illustrating the 
' Arundel Marbles,* and to Sir Robert Cotton in the arrange- 
ment of his famous MS. library. Newport at the same time 
famished Queen Elizabeth with three of her most tnisted 
servants — " one," as she was wont to say, ** for her soul, one 
for her body, and one for her goods " — all sons of tradesmen. 
Dr. Edes, Dean of Worcester, her chaplain ; Dr. James, her 
physician in ordinary: and Sir Thomas Fleming, her Soli- 
citor-General. They owed their promotion to the infiuence 
of Ursula, Lady Walsingham, the widow of Richard 
Woraley. Sir Thomas Fleming, whose base sycophancy, and 
the readiness with which he lent himself as a tool of the 
Crown in its illegal exactions, raised him to the high place of 
Lord Chief Justice of England, was the son of a mercer. 
Fleming is chiefiy and infamously notorious for his jud^ent 
in the great case of impositions, fuUy as important (in the 
opinion of the late Lord Campbell) as Hampden's case of 
Ship-money, though not so celebrated, from having been 
long acquiesced in to the destruction of public liberty. It 
was laid down that the king might impose whatever duties 
he pleased on imports. James L, on hearing of this judg- 
ment, declared that he was " a judge to his heart's content" 
Fleming amassed a large fortune, and purchased the monastic 
estates of Quarr and Carisbrooke, in his native isle, the first 
of which is still enjoyed by his descendants. 

The principal, in fact almost the only object which most 
tourists will care to visit at Newport^ is the church of 



176 OOWBS 8X0TI0K. 

St. Thomas. It is an elegant bnilding, the chief eccle- 
siastical edifice on the island, and contains a beautiM 
recumbent statue by Baron Marochetti, presented by Queen 
Victoria, in memory of Princess Elizabeth, daughter of 
Charles L, who lies buried here. 

The foundation-stone of the church, which occupies the 
site of a former edifice, erected in 1175, was laid by the late 
Prince Consort, in the presence of the Queen, the Bishop 
of Winchester, and the principal inhabitants of the islan<t 
on the 24th of August, 1864. It consists of a nave, with 
clerestory, side aisles, north and south porches and chapels, 
chancel, sacristy, grand west entrance arch, and tower, in 
Decorated Early English, from the designs of Mr. Daukes, 
and was completed in 1856, at a cost of 12,0002. The roof is 
open, of timber, with moulded ribs and sculptured corbels. 
The east window is filled with stained glass. On a memorial 
window to the south of the chancel an angel is depicted 
visiting a battle-field strewn with slain ; and it'commemorates 
the ofiQcers and men, formerly stationed at Parkhurst bar- 
racks, who fell in the Crimean war. In the church hang the 
tattered colours of the lOSrd Begiment, which, torn to pieces 
by "shot and shell," were replaced by new ones, at the 
hands of the Duke of Connaught The window above the 
Horsey monument is coloured, and contains the efiigies of the 
Saviour, St. James, and St. John. It was executed at Bour- 
deaux, and presented by W. B. Rutherford, Esq. The pulpit 
is from the old church, and very fine. It is all in oak, 
varnished, and was the donation of Stephen March. It 
bears the date 1636. The sounding board is ornamented, 
among other emblems, with reclining figures of Justice and 
Mercy, and has this inscription round it in gilt letters : '' Cxy 
aloud and spare not. Lift up thy voice like a trumpet" 
The pulpit itself is divided into two rows of carved ims^es in 
bas-relief. On the uppermost row are described the four 
cardinal virtues and the three Graces, with their types ; and 
on the lower rank the seven liberal sciences — namely, 
''Grammar, Dialectics, Rhetoric, Music, Arithmetic, Geo- 
metry, Astrology." This was the work of ** Thomas Caper, 
carver, who lies buried in Salisbury," and his symbol, the 
Goat, is against the back of the pulpit. The reading desk is 
also good, and made of oak. The enriched cornice above, as 
well as the pilasters, are formed out of the old screen, which 
in the old church separated the nave from the chanceL 

At tiie east end of the south chapel is the weU-ezecuted 



HEWPOBT. 177 

monmnent of Sir Edward Horsey, Ent, who was buried 
here. He was captain of the island in the reign of Elizabeth 
(1565-82). A marble effigy of the knight, clad in armour, 
rexx>ses beneath a rich painted and gilt canopy. 

The Lady Elizabeth, second daughter and fifth child of 
King Charles L, died in the castle of Carisbrooke, September 
8, 1650. Her body was first embalmed, and then care- 
fally placed in a leaden coffin. It lay open to the sorrowing 
gaze of her attendants for some fourteen days, and on 
Wednesday the 24th of September, ''was brought (in a 
borrowed coach) from the castle," says Fuller, '' to the town 
of Newport, attended thither with her few late servants. At 
the end of the town the corpse was met and waited on by the 
mayor and aldermen thereof, in their formalities to the church, 
whereabout the middle of the east part of the chancel, in St. 
Thomas' chapel, her highness was interred in a small vault 
purposely made, with an inscription of the date of her death 
engraved on her coffin.'' The coffin was placed in a small 
arched vault in the middle of the east part of the chancel, 
and the letters E. S. were cut in the adjacent wall. But in 
the oourse of time the vault became forgotten, until, in 
October, 1793, some workmen employed in making a new 
grave, discovered the coffin ; which was. of lead and perfect, 
with the following inscription : *' Elizabeth, 2Dd daughter of 
the late King Charles, died September 8th, 1650." In order 
that the spot might not be again overlooked, a plate bearing a 
simple inscription was placed on the stone covering the vault. 
In the present church the vault is underneath the steps 
leading to the communion rails. 

At the east end of the north chapel is a very beautiful and 
touching monument, erected by Queen Victoria to the 
memory of the princess. Sunk 2 feet 6 inches in the wall is 
a space, with its stone back carved to represent the per- 
pendicular and horizontal bars of a prison grating. In front, 
iron bars depend about a foot irom the Gothic arch, and have 
been broken off there, leaving the tomb, and its effigy below, 
open to view. This is in Carrara marble, and represents the 
Lady Elizabeth recumbent on a mattress. The dress is that 
of the Stuart period, low at the bosom, with a lace fringe and 
breast knot, short sleeves also edged with lace, and a deep 
stomacher, terminating in looped ribbon at the skirt, from 
the end of whose graceful folds the feet are just discernible. 
One arm and hand rest on the waist, the other arm is 
extended by the left side, with the hand partly open. The 

K 



178 00WS8 aBonoK. 

neck is bare, and the left cheek reclines npon a Bible, which 
is open at the text *' Gome unto me all ye that labour and 
are heavy laden, and I will give you rest." Long ringlets 
stray in abundant profusion on its sacred pages, the chin is 
slender, with thin parted lips, and the eyelids are closed. 
The effigy is a likeness, and was taken from a portrait in Her 
Majesty s possession. History records that "she expired 
alone, at Garisbrooke Castle, her fiedr cheek resting on a Bible 
— ^the last gift of her munlered father, and which had been 
her only consolation in the last sad months of her life.** 
The tomb is plain and raised three steps. Its panel bears the 
following inscription : 

*<T0 THE MEMOBT OF 

THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH, dauohtbb of KING CHARLES I., 

WHO DIED AT GARISBROOKE CASTLE, ON SUNDAT, 

SEPTEMBER 8TH, 1650, 

AND IB INTBRBBD BENEATH THE CHANCBL OF THIS CSUBCB, 

THE MONUMENT IS ERECTED 

AS A TOKEN OF RESPECT FOR HER VIRTUES, AND OF S7MPATHT 

FOR HER MISFORTUNES, 

BY VICTORIA R. 1856." 

The monument is considered one of the late Banm 
Marochetti's finest productions. 

There are three memorial windows of stained glass here in 
memory of the Lady Elizabeth. The first at me side, was 
placed there by Her Majesty, and has the royal arms at the 
top in the centre. It also bears two texts, which are as 
follows : ^' Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord," and 
'* Sorrow not, even as others which have no hope." The 
lower side window was presented by the Prince Consort, and 
they are both very beautiful. The fine window above the 
monument was given by the young ladies of the congregation, 
and is known as '* The Maidens' Window.** 

On the wall, between the two side windows, is a medallion, 
put up by the inhabitants of Newport, in memory of " Albert** 
the Prince Consort. It is a profile, looking to the east, and 
is formed of white marble. An inscription placed on the 
wall in the comer, close to the monument, records the &ct 
of the Prince's having laid the foundation stone of the present 
ehurch. 

There are many other places of worship in the town. The 



KXWPOBV, 179 

Boman Catholic chapel in Pyle Street, was attended in 1857 
by the Emperor and Empress of the I>Vench, and in 1861 by 
the unfortunate Archduke Maximilian, of Austria, and his wife. 
* The Bev. Thomas Binney was the pastor at the Congre- 
gational church in St. James' Street, from 1824 to 1829, when 
he was called to King's Weigh House chapel, London. 

The free grammar school in St. James' Street, a plain stone 
mansion of the Tudor era, ifr noteworthy for its historical 
associations. Here CSiarles I. resided during the time occu- 
pied by the Treaty of Newport, in the autumn of 1648, and 
in the room, now used as the schoolroom, divine service was 
performed every Sunday before him and his suite. The 
school was established in 1614-19 by Sir Thomas Fleming, 
Sir John Oglander, Edward Cheke, of Mottistone, and 
others. 

The townhall is situated in the High Street. It was 
erected in 1816, from the designs of the architect Nash, at a 
cost of 10,0002., and occupies the ground of the old town- 
hall, where the conferences were held between Charles I. and 
the parliamentary commissioners. In one room there is a 
fine portrait of the late Sir Leonard Thomas Worsley Holmes, 
Bart., by Owen : he is represented in his robes, as recorder 
of the town. There is also a plaster of Paris statue of Lord 
Chief Justice Fleming, seated in his robes ; on the pedestal 
are three bas-reliefs, representing him in the House of 
Commons ; sitting at the trial of Guy Fawkes ; and as being 
introduced to Queen Elizabeth. The statue was given to 
the corporation by T. W. Fleming, Esq., of Stoneham house. 
The lower portion of the town£jl is used for the butter 
market, &c. 

The Isle of Wight Literary Institution, in St. James' 
Square, was established in 1810, and the present building 
erected, after plans by Nash, at a cost of 30002. It pos- 
sesses a large library, reading room, &o. 

In the museum is a valuable collection of ancient coins, 
fossils, Anglo-Saxon, British, and Boman antiquities, throwing 
light on the early history as well as the natural phenomena 
of the island. 

During the present season a junction will be effected between 
the Isle of Wight Bailway and the Cowes aind Newport Bail- 
way, thus making a direct line of rail from Ventnor to Cowes. 
A new railway is also projected between Horringford on 
the Newport line and Ventnor via the Undercliff, thus 
avoiding the steep ascent to the station at Yentnor. 

2^2 



180 OOWBB BIOXIOIT, 



Garisbrooke : the Castle, Boman Villa, Chnrcliy 

and Priory. 

Garisbrooke Gastley one mile west of Newport, is an object 
of attraction to almost every visitor to the island, chiefly 
on account of its having been the scene of Charles I.*s im- 
prisonment. Many historical associations also attach to it, 
for in ancient days there dwelt within its walls the lords 
and governors of Wight, and it was the one point of retreat 
for the islanders in case of an attack by a foreign foe. Sita- 
ated on a small isolated chalk hill, 239 feet above the sea, 
with its walls thickly clothed with ivy, it has a picturesque 
appearance ; but the interior of the structure offers little of 
interest, and *' the want of height prevents it from bearing 
that look of indomitable oonmiand, which in some cases make 
an ancient fortress resemble the last of the Anakim, bidcUng 
defiance to the feebler race that crawl around its feet." 

It probably stands on the site of a Homan fort, or camp, 
which appears to have been occupied afterwards by the Anglo- 
Saxons who are thought to have erected the massive keep 
upon an artificial mound. Soon after the conquest it was re- 
built and considerably enlarged by William Fitz-Osbome, 
Earl of Hereford, the first lord of the island. Baldwin de 
Bedvers, a zealous partisan of the empress Maud, having 
taken refuge within its walls, was besieged by King Stephen, 
and, on the failure of the well, he was foroed to surrender. 
This well is the one in the keep, now filled with rubbish. On 
the establishment of peace Baldwin de Bedvers was reinstated 
in his honours and erected the great hall of the castle, and, to 
avoid the recurrence of the former misfortune, sank the well, 
which has since become so celebrated. 

Isabella de Fortibus, the last lady of the island, lived in 
the castle in great state, but on her death the island passed 
into the hands of King Edward I., and Garisbrooke lost much 
of its importance, and sank into the rank of an ordinary royal 
castle, the seat of the governor for the time being. In 1377 
it was ineffectually beisieged by French invaders who were 
forced to retire with the loss of their commander. Additions 
to the castle were made by Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, in 
Bichard ll.'s reign ; and by Anthony Woodville, Lord Scales, 
the brother of Elizabeth Woodville, Edward IV.'s queen, by 
whom the noble entrance gateway was erected, his arms being 
carved on a stone at the top, and the roses of York on each 



OABIBBBOOKE. 181 

mde. The castle was thoroughly repaired by order of Henry 
VIU., and the Mount Joy tower at the south-east angle of 
the keep was erected. On the alarm of invasion by the 
Spanish Armada in Elizabeth's reign, the fortifications were 
completely remodelled on the plan of those of Antwerp, by 
Gianibelli, the Italian engineer, who constructed Tilbury fort. 
The queen contributed 4000?. towards the expenses, the 
gentry of the island 4001,, and the people entered with zeal 
into the work, and dug the outward ditch without payment. 
On the outbreak of the parliamentary war, the Earl of Port- 
land, the governor of the island, a devoted adherent of 
Charles I., was removed from his office. The countess, who 
had taken refuge in the castle, was besieged by the trainbands 
from Newport, assisted by the crews of the ships in the river. 
The garrison did not consist of more than twenty men, and, 
being short of provisions, they surrendered on favourable 
terms, after a display of heroic spirit on the part of the 
countess, who threatened to fire the first gun against the 
assailants. Henceforward the castle continued in the ix)wer 
of the Parliament. 

Charles L entered the venerable gateway of the castle on 
Sunday, November 23, 1647, after his escape from Hampton 
Court, and he remained there a prisoner until September 15, 
1648, when he removed to Newport to meet the parlia- 
mentary commissioners, and was subsequently forcibly taken 
to Hurst Castle. For some time after his arrival at Garis- 
brooke he was allowed comparative freedom, and in company 
with the governor. Colonel Hammond, he hunted in Park- 
hurst forest His majesty's apartments were made as com- 
fortable as possible by the arrival of furniture from Hampton 
Court. The gentry of the island were freely allowed to visit 
the castle, and many of them were admitted to kiss the 
king's hand. 

The Tilt yard, or Place-at-armS) outside the castle walls, 
was made into a bowling green, with a summer-house 
attached, and was a favourite resort of his majesty. This 
bowling green is now almost as perfect as on the day it was 
made. 

This semblance of liberty had gradually to be changed for 
one of restraint, for Charles was known to be most anxiously 
endeavouring to escape. The king was at first confined 
in the loftiest portion of the group of buildings opposite 
the great gate, and a plan was formed by one of the king's 
pages to break through the ceiling of the bedchamber and 



182 00WE6 BBOTlOir. 

the floor of the room ahove, and let his majesty escape hj a 
part of the castle where no strict watch was kept. This 
design was never attempted, but a new plan was formed 
by some gentlemen of the island. It was determined that 
Charles should let himself down by a cord from his chamber- 
window, and again from the top of the ramparts, under 
which a swift horse, with a guide, were to be placed in 
readiness to convey him to a vessel purposely stationed at 
the seaside. The chief difficulty in the scheme was the 
narrow space between the bar ; but Charles affirmed that he 
had tried the passage, and did not doubt but that it was 
sufficiently large. The preparations were therefore com- 
pleted, the hour of enterprise was come, the concerted 
signal was given, and Charles attempted to force himself 
.through the window ; but though he found an easy passage 
for his head, he stuck fast in endeavouring to protrude 
his neck and shoulders, and for some time could neither 
advance nor retreat. His groans were heard by his friends 
below, but nothing could be done to relieve him ; at length, 
by repeated efforts, he forced himself back, and immediately 
placed a candle in the window, as an intimation that the 
design was frustrated. Though the secret was well kept, 
the governor^ Hammond, received some hint which induced 
him to remove Charles* lodgings to the line of apartments on 
the left of the entrance, which have ever since been connected 
with the name of the monarch. It was from a window in 
this range of buildings, though not that u&ually pointed 
out, that the next escape was projected. The bars were to be 
corroded by aquafortis, and cut through with files and saws, 
which Charles was to form out of two knives. Some intelli- 
gence had, however, been received by Hammond, which 
occasioned a more strict degree of watchfulness, and Maj(H* 
Bolfe, by pretending to be in the kicg s interest, obtained 
the confidence of some of the persons concerned, and of 
course was made acquainted with the plan. The night whs 
however fixed, and Charles was getting through the window, 
when perceiving more persons beneath it than he expected, 
he drew back and retired to bed. Soon afterwards the 
governor entered the chamber, and Charles found that the 
scheme had miscarried. The gentlemen who had been con- 
cerned, escaped with much difficulty, and Charles himself 
appears to have been in great danger, as Major Rolfe ex- 
hibited a charged pistol, declaring he had resolved to shoot 
the king with it as he descended from the window. The 
king was afterwards more closely watched, and treated with 



OABISBBOOKllL 183 

increased rigonr. His only exercise was a walk on the castle 
walls in company with the governor. The books that served 
for the amusement of his leisure hours were ' Hooker's Eccle- 
siastical Polity,' Tasso's * Jerusalem,' and Spenser's * Faerie 
Queene ' ; these, with the Sacred Scriptures, and some works 
on religious subjects, formed nearly the whole of his libraiy. 

Two of the children of Charles were brought to the castle 
after the removal of the king. Henry, Duke of Gloucester, 
and the Princess Elizabeth landed at Cowes, August 13, 1650, 
and were conveyed to Carisbrooke three days later. It was 
ordered that they were to be treated as the children of a 
gentleman. A yearly allowance of lOOOZ. each was voted by 
Parliament. The princess caught cold at bowls, within a 
week of her arrival, and died September 8, 1650. The Duke 
of Gloucester, or, as he was called, " Mr. Harry," remained 
in the castle till March, 1653, when Cromwell allowed him 
to join his sister, the Princess of Orange, in Holland. 

The entrance to the castle is by an archway, of the time of 
Elizabeth, connected with the outer works, and bearing the 
initials E. B. and date 1598, and then over a stone bridge 
which spans the moat now covered with green turf. This 
leads to a second portal of much greater antiquity with a 
round tower on either side, and presenting a noble and pic- 
turesque appearance. Having entered the castle area* the 
tourist sees on the left the remains of buildings in which 
Charles L spent the latter portion of his imprisonment. In 
&ont are the plain buildings now occupied by those in charge 
of the ruins. They have been modernized out of the original 
haU^ which was formerly connected with the keep by a strong 
walL In one of the rooms the Princess Elizabeth died. At- 
tached to this block of buildings is the well-house, where a 
donkey draws up the water bucket, by working a huge tread- 
wheel as curs in former days turned spits. The well, to the 
bottom of the water, is 240 feet deep. The keep is ascended 
by a flight of steps. From the summit is obtained an exten- 
sive prospect. Close below, the houses and churches of Caris- 
brooke and Newport, and the cemetery on Mount Joy have a 
pretty effect. More distant are St. George's, Arreton, Shank- 
lin, Appuldurcombe, St. Catherine's, and Brixton downs. In 
the direction of Parkhurst forest are the barracks, Northwood 
church, East Cowes, and the towers of Osborne house. 

The Roman Villa was discovered in 1859, when some 
workmen were excavating in the vicarage grounds. It is 

* Each visitor is charged 4(1. The castle is not open on Sundays. 



184 oowss sxonoN. 

situated near the castle on the opposite bank of the streamlet 
which winds round the stronghold. The walls remaining are 
from 1 to 3 feet high, and built of chalk with inferior mortar, 
the exterior portions beii^ iaced with flints. On many parts 
of them the painted plaster of the interior was, when first un- 
covered, tolerably perfect, and a cement moulding ran round 
several of the rooms. The floor of the hall and the dormi- 
tories is covered with a coarse tesselated pavement. ' The floor- 
ing of the best apartment is of superior design and workmanship. 
In the centre is figured a well-shaped vase and flowers. At 
the south-west comer of the building are tolerably perfect 
remains of the bath. A few coins and fragments of Samian 
ware were found among the debris. 

Ccmsbroohe church is an ancient edifice, and was originally 
much more extensive than at present. The north aisle and 
chancel were pulled down in Elizabeth's reign. The old 
pulpit, with the date 1658, remains a monument of the 
Puritan ascendency. The tower is massive and handsome, 
and rises proudly above the surroimding buildings. In the 
interior of the building is a tablet to the memory of William 
Keeling, General for the Hon. East India Adventurers in 
the reign of James I. There is also a monument repre- 
senting a lady kneeling, her hands folded in prayer ; in the 
background are six niches, each containing a rude sculpture 
of a cripple, pointing to her charitable exertions on behalf of 
the deformed. It is in memory of Lady Wadham, who is 
incorrectly said to have been the sister of Jane Seymour, 
wife of Henry V III. She was aunt of Jane Seymour, and 
the second wife of Nicholas Wadbam. 

Carishrooke Priory formerly existed close by the north side 
of the church and was joined to it. Not a vestige remains, and 
a &rmhouse occupies its site. It was founded in 1071, by 
William Fitz-Osbome, and with the exception of Quarr Abbey, 
was the most important religious edifice on the island. 

Carishrooke is now the headquarters of the Isle of Wight 
Artillery Militia. 

The walk from Carishrooke to Newport might be plea- 
santly varied by going over Mount Joy. The path is entered 
close to the cemetery, and on gaining the top of the hill a 
charming prospect is unfolded to view. Carishrooke Castle 
and village, the town of Newport, and the river Medina are 
at the spectator's feet; and more remote are Parkhurst 
forest, barracks, and prison, the towers of Osborne house, 
Stapler's Heath, Arreton, Pan, St. George's, Shanklin, 
^ ^nidurcombe, and St. Catherine's downs. 



KEWPOBT TO WEST 00WE8. 185 



Newport to West Gowes, by Farkhurst Barracks 

and Prison. 

5 miles. 

Most tourists travel from Newport to Cowes by rail, bnt 
some avail themselves of the coacnes, which run often daily 
between these two towns. Occasionally a third plan is 
adopted, and a sail is had along the Medina, in a boat which 
plies two or three times a week. The coaches leave the 
square, run along St. James' Street, passing the grammar 
school, and when over the Lugeley or Garisbrooke streamlet 
ascend Honey hill. Presently a road on the left branches to 
Yarmonth, and opposite this is the poorhouse, or Hoose of 
Tndnstry. This building is for the accommodation of the 
poor of the whole island and was erected in 1770, on land 
given by government. It claims to have been the first 
institution in England where the present system of poor-law 
unions was adopted. 

Beyond the workhouse the road passes on the left the 
parade grounds, the Farkhurst barracks, and the Farkhurst 
prison. 

The barracks, now called Farkhurst barracks, were erected 
in 1798, and were originally named Albany barracks, out of 
compliment to the Duke of York and Albany, then Com- 
mander-in-Chief of the British army. They contain ac- 
commodation for between 2000 and 3000 soldiers, and, on 
account of the salubrity of the place, troops on their arrival 
from abroad are frequently stationed here. The parade 
ground is extensive, and the barracks themselves are con- 
sidered almost as complete as any in England. 

The hospital portion of the barracks was, in 1838, con- 
verted into a model prison, or general penitentiary for 
juvenile offenders, and tne experiment answered so well that 
a second gaol was soon afterwards constructed close to the 
first. At present the building is used as a general prison for 
convicts, of whom it will accommodate about 700. Trades 
are worked at in the establishment, and 100 acres of land 
cultivated by spade husbandry. 

Leaving the prison and a small hamlet, the traveller 
attains high ground, and a view is had of the Medina river, 
with the cement works close below on the right, and in the 
rear Newport is visible. The towers of Osborne house and 
Whippingham and Northwood churches, are in sight almost 



186 oowBS sEOTioir. 

the whole way. Near the Horse Shoe inn, 3 miles from 
Newport, there is said to he one of the most extensiye views 
on the island. Across the Medina are seen East Cowes, 
Oshome house, and Whippiogbam church. In the dis- 
tance Aldermoor mill, near Ryde; the Bemhridge Down, 
Ashey Down, with its landmark; Stapler's Heath, St. Gteorge's 
Down, Pan Down, Shanklin and Wroxall downs, Appuldur- 
comhe Down and its ohelisk, St. Catherine's Down, with the 
three monuments ; High Down, Headon hill, Gblden hill, the 
Solent hy Gurnard Bay, the New Forest, Southampton 
Water, and Stokes Bay. 

After passing the tollgate a pleasant view is had of West 
and East Cowes, and the estuary of the Medina, and a quick 
descent is made into the town. 

Newport to Shorwell. 
5 miles. 

This road goes past Carishrooke, and then through a 
secluded vale almost surrounded hy hills, and over the 
western chalk downs to the southern part of the island. 
It will he traversed by the tourist principally on account of 
the remains of ancient Pictish villages to he seen by visiting 
on the way Rowborough and Westcourt bottoms. 

Turning to the left at the top of Carishrooke village, the 
road conducts through the hamlet of Clatterford and Plash, 
and to Bowcombe farm, with Alvington and Bowcomhe 
downs on the right Carishrooke Casde is passed on the 
left, and is a pleasing object in the rear during most part of 
the journey. The next farm is Idlecombe, and then Row- 
borough. Here, 3i miles from Newport, by turning up a 
lane on the right, the small vale is reached in which are the 
remains of the Pictish village, and by crossing over the high 
ground to the left of the vale, other similar, and even more 
perfect vestiges are seen in the hollow known as West- 
court Bottom; on the other side of the Brixton hill are 
more traces in the Newbam Bottom leading to Calbourne, 
and in fact, in most of the secluded recesses around, are 
equally interesting remains to be found. 

Upon the hills are barrows, or ancient burial grounds; and 
on many may be seen relics of old earthworks or forts, to 
which, in all probability, the inhabitants resorted in case of 
an attack by an enemy. These sites of ancient villages are 
circular pit holes some yards in diameter, of & saucer shape. 



PAN BOWK, AND ST. OBOBOB's DOWN. , 187 

and in a regular row right up the vale, forming as it were one 
long street. There are no walls, but around the holes the 
grass evidently covers foundations of such, composed of the 
flints of the district. At the bottom of the vale there are 
signs of a mound which has been run up the sides of the 
opposite hills and across the vale, so as to protect the village 
from the approach of a foe. 

A quarter of a mile beyond Bowborough farm is Cheverton 
farm, and then a steep ascent is made up Cheverton shute, 
and a quick descent leads under a rustic wooden bridge, and 
past the well-wooded grounds of Northoourt to ShorwelL 
yiUage. 



ABcent of Pan Down and St. Gheorge's Down, from 

Newport. 

Pan Down is the hill situated close to Shide railway station^ 
1 mile from Newport, and the ascent can be made from the 
station in six or seven minutes. It commands a view of the 
town of Newport, theParkhurst barracks and prison, the woods 
of Parkhurst forest, and a strip of the sea in the direction of 
Newtown, with the opposite coast. Cariying the eye in a 
south-east direction, we see Mount Joy, Garisbrooke Castle, 
Bowcombe, Chillerton, and St. Catherine's downs, the latter 
being well-defined by the two towers on its summit. In 
the opposite direction appear Arreton Down, and the towers 
of Osborne house. The most lovely picture, however, is that 
presented by the combination of the Medina estuary, with the 
ships at Cowes, the Solent, appearing like an inland lake, 
and the Hampshire coast in the background. 

Pan Down and St. G^ige's Down being attached, and about 
the same height, it is an easy walk from one to the other. A 
road ascends from Shide, winds round Pan Down to the top 
of St. Greorge's Down, and then continues along the broad 
flat summit, past some gravel pits, xmtil near the form- 
house of East Standen, and then descends to Arreton by a 
lane picturesquely sunk between rocky masses of conglo- 
merate, profusely covered with shrubs, ferns, woodbine, 
and ivy. 

St. George's Down may justly claim to be considered classic 
ground, for East Standen covers the ground once occupied by 
a manor house, formerly the residence of Princess Cicely, or 
Cecilia, the third daughter of Edward lY. ; and a century 



188 oowra 810TI0K. 

later, the Earl of Southampton, the friend and patron of 
Shakespeare, took up his residence here when governor of the 
island. Sir John Oglander, an eye-witness, draws a beau- 
tiful picture of the accomplished peer gathering the island 
gentry about him here, and spreading around the refining 
influence of his high character. He says : '' This island, 
full of knights and gentry beyond compare, was then the 
Paradise of England." A bowling green was laid out on the 
summit of the down, and a summer-house erected and main- 
tained in bountiful fieishion, where the governor and the 
gentry were accustomed to assemble and dine together every 
Tuesday and Thursday ; occasionally as many as thirty being 
present at one time. 

The Princess Cicely was bom in 1469, and betrothed by 
proxy in her fifth year to James, the son of James III., of 
iScotland. Political changes prevented the marriage, and she 
afterwards became the wife of Lord Wells, a favourite at 
court, and a maternal cousin of Henry VII. She is reported 
to have been very beautiful, and the observed of all observers, 
when present at her elder sister's coronation as Queen ot 
Henry VII. Having lost her husband and her two daughters, 
she was two years a widow, and then suddenly retired from 
the splendour of the court into the obscurity of private life, 
and married Sir John Kyme of the Isle of Wight, " rather 
for comfort than credit," says Fuller. Sir John was a 
gentleman by birth, of the Lincolnshire family of that name, 
but some of the old chroniclers speak of him, as '* a man of 
mean degree," and of her as a lady '* not so fortunate as fair," 
who ^* lived not in great wealth." Her second marriage was 
never recognized by the king. She lived about four years at 
East Standen, where she is reported to have had two children, 
Richard and Ma^rie, and to have died August 24th, 1507. 
She was buried in the Abbey of Quarr, and a stately monu- 
ment erected to her memory, but of this no vestige remains. 
At Standen was a chapel, the foundations of which were to 
be traced in the orchard behind the house in Sir B. Worsle/s 
day. 

At Sullons, a sequestered hamlet close by, there is the 
singular phenomenon of the sudden disappearance of a 
stream, which gurgles down to a subterranean channel. It 
is believed to re-issue at a spot 2 miles distant, on the side of 
Fan Down, near Shide. 



NOBTHWOOD PABK, AND GVRNABD BAT. 189 



A Walk from West Gowes, round Northwood Park 

WaU. 

• 

This is a pleasant stroll, If miles long, and should be 
taken by the stranger soon after his arrival at Gowes. The 
Northwood park occupies most of the high ground west of 
the town, and is a barrier against the enlaigement and im- 
provement of the place. It is the seat of — Ward, Esq., 
and is surrounded by a high wall, with here and there a 
lodge gate; but strangers are not admitted. A carriage- 
drive outside the wall runs quite round the park, and com- 
mands some extensive prospects. It is entered from the 
parade, after a slight ascent behind the castle, and presently 
the traveller has a fine view across the Solent to the New 
Forest, Eagleshurst Castle, Galshot Castle, Southampton 
Water, Netley hospital, and in the direction of Stokes Bay 
to the heights of Fortsdown. After passing on the right the 
Toad leading down to Egypt house, and to the shore, a long 
line of coast appears in front, stretching from Gurnard Bay, 
past Newtown estuary, Hampstead hill, and Old Fort Point, 
to Hurst Castle. 

When beyond Grange school. Gurnard village appears close 
by, on the right, and in the distance are the High Down, 
Headon hill, Afton, Brook, and Brixton downs. At Gurnard 
tollgate, 1 mile from Cowes, a road on the right leads down 
to Gurnard, another, straightforward, conducts into the New- 
port road, and one on the left, by the wall, conducts to 
Cowes. Following the latter, the towers of Osborne house 
appear, and then the buildings at East Cowes, the Ashey, 
and adjacent downs; and the Solent is seen again in the 
direction of Stokes Bay. During the descent into the town, 
one or two good views are had of the bay and across to 
Gosport, and to the Portsdown hills. 



West Gowes to Gximard Bay and Newtown, and to 
Newport througli Parkliiirst Forest. 

Cowes is placed at a great disadvantage with respect to 
pleasant walks in the country and by the seashore, being 
hemmed in on one side by Northwood park, and on the 
other by the grounds of Osborne house and Norris Castle. 
There is one agreeable outlet, and those who are fond of a 
quiet ramble, free from intrusion, and away from dusty 



190 OOWXS BBOnON. 

roads, will do well ix) direct thdr steps westward in the direc- 
tioii of Gurnard Bay. 

After leaving the parade and the green, the traveller pro- 
ceeds along Queen'd road, past the l^ths, and the ivy-clad 
mansion of E^pt house, the residence of the Earl of Hard- 
wicke, and then continues for three-quarters of a mile by a 
path close to the shore, with good views across the Solent to 
the New Forest, and in front the prospect opens to Gurnard 
Bay, Thorness Bay, Hampstead hill, Yarmouth, Old Fort 
Point, and Hurst Castle. On arriving at Gurnard Bay, Gur- 
nard village and hotel may be visited. They stand on high 
ground, and well overlook the surrounding country, in- 
cluding Headon hill. High Down, Afton, Oompton, Cbessel, 
Mottistone, and Brixton downs, Parkhurst forest, Hamp- 
stead hill, the Solent and opposite coast. 

On the west side of the bay, across the level plot of land, 
known as the Marsh, will be observed a single cottage, and 
in the garden may be. seen very slight traces of a Koman 
villa, discovered in 1864, and said to be close to where once 
stood a fort, called Gurnard Castle. The villa when first 
seen was unfortunately on the very edge of the crumbling 
cliff, and the sea waves quickly washed away almost every 
vestige. There were the foundations of three rooms with 
tesselated pavement, without patterns, composed of small 
square pieces of broken tile. Among the relics were found 
Samian ware, Koman coins, a figuro of Mercury, two fibulse, 
&c., some of which are still preserved by Mr. E. J. Smith, 
who resides at Gurnard village. 

According to tradition, Gurnard Bay was the site of a 
Boman harbour ; and there appears to be some truth in the 
tradition when we take into account the existence of the 
remains of the villa, the foundation-stones of buildings, 
which are still occasionally discovered in the neighbourhood, 
and the road called Hew Street, which leads direct from the 
bay to Carisbrooke Castle. Even in comparatively modem 
times the place appears to have been used as a harbour, for 
Charles H. landed hero in 1671, on his visit to Sir Robert 
Holmes, of Yarmouth, and in 1583 it was said to be a 
" common passage of the isle." No doubt the sea, which 
yearly washes away large patches of the land on the coast 
hereabouts, has made inroads, and now covers the ancient 
seaport. Hassell, writing in 1790, says thero wero stone 
quarries here, from which most of the houses on the island 
and the works at Portsmouth were constructed, and three or 



OOWES TO BTDB. 191 

four sloops were generally in the bay waiting to be loaded. 
The quarries, which were worked in a band of the Bembridge 
limestone, do not now exist. 

From Gurnard Bay an agreeable walk may be had still 
farther westward along the cliffs, with clayey landslips on the 
right and fine views across the Solent from Hurst Castle to 
Stokes Bay. When Thorness Bay is reached the shore will 
be found to consist of soft clay and mud, which at times is 
almost impassable, and therefore the traveller will bend to the 
left, and after leaving one or two farmhouses, enter the road 
leading from Cowes to Newtown, Shalfieet, and Yarmouth. 
Here he has the choice of routes ; he may continue to New- 
town, &c., return to Cowes by the village of Tinker's Lane, 
or proceed in a south direction through Parkhurst forest to 
Carisbrooke and Newport, by Eew Street, a road leading from 
Gurnard Bay, and supposed to have been originally a Roman 
road. Pleasant solitary walks may be had in any direction 
through the forest, along roads overarched by the trees, the 
only denizens of the place being squirrels and warbling birds, 
or the woodman from the lodge in the centre of the forest. 
Fic-nic parties might while away a few hours agreeably in 
gathering blackberries and nuts from the thick growth of 
underwood* 

Cowes to Byde, by Wootton Bridge. 

7 miles. 

After crossing the river from West to East Cowes, by the 
steam feny, an ascent is made through beautiful park-like 
grounds to the road which runs by the side of the Osborne 
estate. As the traveller proceeds he obtains views of the 
Solent, the Hampshire coast. East and West Cowes, and the 
Medina river. The towers of Osborne are seen on the left, 
and on the right the spire of Whippingham church. After 
passing the lodge gate leading to Barton, some schools are 
reached, and here is a fine panorama. The upper part of the 
Medina has a pretty effect with Newport church, and Caris- 
brooke church and castle prominent. There are also in sight 
the Parkhurst barracks and prison with part of the Parkhurst 
forest. In the distance are the Ashey, St. George's, St. 
Catherine's, Chillerton, Brixton, Mottistone, Bowoombe, and 
Alvington downs. A few yards farther, close to a blacksmith's 
shop, the road divides, one leading direct to Newport and 
the other, bending to left^ for Wootton bridge. Following the 



192 oowES SEonoK. 

latter, extensive prospects are obtained on the right, and on 
the left are the towers of Osborne. One or two glimpses are 
also gained of the Solent, in the direction of Spithead and 
Portsmouth. The road descends and passes through thick 
copses, a ad over a tiny streamlet which flows into the sea at 
King's Quay, a quiet secluded creek half a mile distant on 
the left. Its name is connected with a tradition that King 
John dwelt in its retired neighbourhood for three months, after 
the signature of Magna Charta (a.d. 1215). *' Here he led/ 
says Grafton, ''a solitarie lyfe among reivers and fishermen;" 
but the king's * Itinerary or Journey Book,' lately edited by 
Mr. Hardy, satisfactorily proves that the tradition cannot be 
supported by historical evidence. Another tradition, said 
to be equally groundless, derives the name from Charles I. 
having landed here from Titchfield, after bis escape from 
Hampton Court. The name, whencesoever derived, is of 
modem origin. The place was formerly known as Shofieet 
Creek, and was a favourite resort of the sea-rovers in Eliza- 
beth's reign. 

Ascending and gaining ground clear of the copses, a strip 
' of the Solent with the opposite coast is seen in the direction 
of King's Quay, and on the right are the Medina and the 
hills beyond Carisbrooke and Newport. When on the high 
ground, a road is entered which leads on the left to Wootton 
church, situated a few hundred yards distant, and on the 
right into the Ryde and Newport road. A path across the 
fields conducts to Wootton village. Here is seen the Solent, 
with the quarantine vessels on the Mother Bank, near Ryde ; 
and inland are Ashey Down with its landmark, Messly, 
Arreton, St. George's and Brixton downs, and Northwood 
church. 

Wootton church is small, with an old Norman door, 
evidently part of a former building. The carved oak pulpit 
is of the time of James 1., and there is a monumental slab to 
'* Sir William Lisle, Master in Chancery, 1665," as well as to 
Izaak Walton's cousin and namesake. A farmhouse close 
to the church stands on the site of the manor house, where 
Henry YII. rested one night in 1499. It was the seat of the 
powerful island family of De Insula or Lisle. Two brothers 
of this family played prominent parts on opposite sides in the 
great civil struggles of the seventeenth century, — Sir John 
Lisle, one of the judges at the trial of Charles L, and after- 
wards member of Cromwell's House of Lords ; and William, 
who, after suffering great hardships, accompanied Charles U. 



OOWES TO BTDE. 193 

in his exile, and shared m the triumph of his return. The 
latter Hes buried at Wootton ; the regicide was assassinated 
by two Irishmen at Lausamie, where he* had taken refuge 
at the Restoration. The name of his widow, the Lady Alice, 
is familiar to all, from the unrighteous sentence passed on her 
by the infamous Judge Jefferies for affording refuge to Mon- 
mouth's adherents after the battle of Sedgemoor. She was 
cruelly beheaded at Winchester, though an aged, grey-haired 
woman. The tragic tale is well told by Lord Macaulay. 

Wootton Lodge, the residence of Francis White Popham, 
Esq., was formerly the Parsonage. The present building is 
chiefly modem, and contains few traces of the old house, 
which was said to be haunted, and had a strange midnight 
visitor in the ghost of Dr. Thomas Lisle, a former rector, who 
regularly, at the still hour of twelve at night, used to rustle 
down the staircase in a sweeping silk gown and cassock. 
More pleasing associations are, however, connected with the 
spot ; for here once lived a rector who was a cousin and 
a namesake of Izaak Walton, and books inherited from the 
rector, bearing the angler's autograph, are now religiously 
preserved in the house. 

For a description of the village of Wootton bridge and the 
road thence to Byde, see page 23. 







( 195 ) 



INDEX. 



Adams, Bev. William, 78, 79, 84. 

Adgeston, 61. 

Afton Down, 181» 134, 144, 159. 

Afton Houae, 106, 156. 

Albert Fort, 148. 

Aldermoor Mill, 17, 26. 

Alum Bay, 90, 106, 137, 141, 

143, 147, 150. 
Alverstone, 61, 64, 74. 

Farm, 24. 

Alvington Down, 158, 186. 
America, 74. 
Apes Down, 158. 
Appley TowerB, 10^ 14. 
Appnldnroombe, 118, 125, 127, 

128. 
Apse, 64, 73, 74. 
Arched Bock, 136, 144. 
Arnold, Dr., 78, 95, 167, 171. 
Arreton, 57, 61, 118, 123. 
Ashey Down, 26, 27, 57, 58. 

Farm, 27. 

Station, 41. 

Atherfidd, 100, 112, 130, 133. 

Bab Gate, 144. 
Barnes Chine, 180. 
Barton. 169. 
Bembridge, 13, 52, 54. 

Down, 48. 

Ledge, 51, 55. 

Billingham Honse, 118. 
Binnel Point, 111. 
Binney, Bev. Thomas, 179. 
Binstead Church, 17. 

Quarries, 18. 

Village, 23. 



Black Batrow, 105. 

Gang, 90, 98, 107, 110, 112, 

118, 129, 132. 

Chine, 98, 110, 112. 

Pan Common, 65. 

Blackwater, 120, 123. 
Bonchuroh, 29, 39, 78. 

Cove, 84, 87. 

Borthwood, 64. 
Bonldner, 149. 
Bowcombe Down, 161, 186. 
Boyoe, 10. 
Brading, 16, 29, 30, 39. 

Down, 57. 

Haven, 35. 

Mall, 36, 58. 

Brett, Colonel, 173. 
Brixton, 90, 103. 

Bay, 180, 133. 

Down, 161. 

Brook, 90, 105. 

Bay, 131, 134. 

Church, 105. 

Down, 105, 160. 

Point, 131, 134. 

Bull Bocks, 133. 

Calboubnb, 107, 156. 

Bottom, 157, 161. 

Oalcott, Dr., 34. 
Canning, 155, 174. 
Carisbrookei 107, 118, 120, 158, 
159, 180. 

Castle, 180. 

Church, 180, 184. 

Priory, 180, 184. 

Boman Villa, 180, 183. 

2 



196 



IMDXX. 



Carlyle, Thomas, 80. 
Caatle Bay, 108, 111. 

Hill. 105. 

Ghale, 90. 99, 110, 118. 

Ashby Fann, 100. 

Bay, 112, 129, 13S. 

Down, 115. 

Green, 101, 118. 

Charles I., 29, 181. 
Gheke, Sir John, 104. 
Gherrygin, 15. 
Ghessel Down, 105, 160. 
Ghillerton Down, 118. 
Chilton Chine, 131, 134. 
Chiverton Down, 161. 

Farm, 162, 187. 

Cholmondeley, MarqniB, 15. 
Cicely, Princeas, 187. 
Clark, Sir James, 75. 
Qiff End Battery, 148. 

Fort, 148, 150. 

Farm, 73. 

Cochrane, Admiral Sir Thomas, 

21. 
Cole, Dr. Henry, 121. 
Colwell Bay, 148, 150. 
Gompton Bay, 131, 136. 

Chine, 131, 134. 

Coney Dover, 11. 
Coors Castle, 72, 88, 125. 
Coombe Bottom, 88. 
Goppid Hall Farm, 22. 
Cowes, 147, 150, 163, 185, 189, 

191. 
Cowlease Chine, 130, 133. 
Cowper, 6. 
Crab Niton, 95. 

Point, 134. 

Cripple Path, 95, 113. 
Cuckoo Boad, 47. 
Culver Cliff, 48, 50. 

Dairyman's Daughteb, 33. 
Deadman's Lane, 173. 
Deer Pound Bock, 136. 
Qickens, Charles, 79. 
Dunsbury Down, 106, 160. 
Dutchman's Hole, 130. 



East Cowes Castle, 164, 166, 

167. 
East End Landslip, 84. 
Egypt House, 150, 189, 190. 
Elizabeth, Prmcess, 176, 177 

Queen, 57. 

Englefield, 38, 90, 100, 142. 

Faib7 Hill, 15. 
Falkland, Lord, 175. 
Faringford, 106, 137, 138. 
Fern HUl, 22, 24. 
Fielding, 2. 
Fiahboume, 17, 22. 
Fleming, Sir Thomas, 175. 
Foreland Point, 51. 
Foxes' Hole, 110. 
Frenchman's Hole, 144. 
French MiU, 125. 
Freshwater, 90, 135. 

Gate, 106, 129, 131, 134, 

135, 136, 143, 156. 
Froude, 37, 69, 80. 

Galubabbow Bush, 161. 
Ganson Down, 119, 162. 
Garibaldi, 105. 
Gat Cli£E; 128. 
Gatcombe, 118. 
Godshill, 118, 120, 128. 
Golden HiU Fort, 150. 
Gore Qiff, 96. 
Gorse, Sir Nash, 15. 
Grange Chine, 130, 133. 
Grasspool Cove, 107, 110. 
Green, The, 150, 165. 
Gurnard Bay, 150, 189. 
Village, 189. 

HAlfPSTEAD, 154« 

Cliffs, 149. 

Hasely Manor House, 124. 
Hatherwood Point, 147. 
Haven Street, 17, 22, 25. 
Headon HUl, 106, 147, 150. 
Hermit's Hole, 50. 
High Down, 106, 137. 
Hat, 113. 



.INDEX. 



197 



High Port Cliffe, 86. 

HilcUla, 12. 

Hobson, Admiral Sir Thomas, 

82, 155. 
Hodnish Bank, 107. 
Holmes, Admiral Sir Robert, 

151. 
Hoody Bay, 108. 

Head, 107, 111. 

Point, 83. 

Hooke, Dr. Robert, 135. 
Horringford, 124. 
Horseshoe Bay, 84, 87. 
Horsey, Sir Edward, 124, 177. 
House of Industry, 185. 
Hoy's Pillar, 115. 
Hurst Castle, 147, 148. 

Idlbgombe, 161, 186. 

James, Dr. Thomas, 175. 
Jeflfrey, Lord, 67. 

Keats, 66. 
Ken, Dr., 103. 
Kern Farm, 62. 
King's Quay, 191. 
Kingston, 90, 101, 118. 
Kite Hill, 22, 23. 
Knighton, 61, 62. 

Ladder GnmE, 129, 133* 
Lake, 38, 64, 74. 
Lane End Village, 55. 
Languard, 74. 
Lee, 62. 
Lemerston, 102. 

Down, 161. 

Limpet Boad, 47. 
Lisle, Sir John, 192. 
Litter Stairs Point, 46. 
Little Town Down, 88. 
Longfellow, 67. 
Longstone, 105, 160. 
Lord Holmes Parlour, 144. 
Luccombe Chine, 39, 71, 86, 87, 
Lymington, 148, 153. 
Lynch Lane, 157. 



Main Bench Cliffs, 140, 143, 

144. 
Marlborough, Duke of, 155» 
Marochetti, Baron, 176. 
Marryat, Captain, 3. 
Marsh Coombe Shute, 54. 
Merrygarden, 65, 74. 
Messly Down, 57, 60. 
Middleton Green, 106. 
Mill Bay, 86. 
Mirables, 95. 

Bay, 108, 111. 

Moberly, Dr., 103. 
Monk's Bay, 80. 
Morland, George, 136. ' 
Motherbank, 4. 
Mottistone, 90, 105. 

Down, 160. 

Mount Joy, 184. 
Museum, 179. 
Myddelton, Sir Hugh, 35. 

Nash, 167. 

National Consumptive Hospital, 

93. 
Needles Bocks, 90, 106, 137, 

140, 145. 
Neptune's Cave, 144. 
Nettlestone, 14, 15. 
Newbarn Bottom, 161, 186. 

Down, 162. 

Newchurch, 61, 64. 

Newport, 23, 25, 41, 107, 118, 

120, 153, 156, 159, 172, 189. 
Newtown, 154, 189. 

Inlet. 149. 

Ningwood Common, 154. 
Ninham, 22, 74. 
Niton, 95, 112, 116. 
Node Hill, 172. 
Nodes Point, 12. 
Norris Castle, 166, 167. 
Northcourt, 101, 102. 
Northwood Church, 166, 171. 

Park, 165, 189. 

Norton Green, 150. 
Nosters, 56. 
Nunwell, 16, 26, 28. 



198 



INDEX. 



Oglakdeb, 8ir John, 13, 28. 
Old Castle Point, 164. 
Orchard, 95. 

Bay, 107, 111. 

Park, 95. 

Orestone Point, 11. 
Osborne House, 166, 168. 

PALMBEStoN, Lord, 174. 
Pan Down, 120, 187. 
Parkhnrst Barracks, 185. 

Forest, 156, 189, 191. 

Prison, 185. 

Peel, Edmund, 79. 
Pelham Bay, 107, 111. 
Pepper Eock, 144. 
Pitiands, 96. 
Plash, 186. 
Priory, 15. 

Bay, 12. 

Puckaster Cove, 95, 108, 111. 
Puckpool, 10. 
Pusey, Dr., 98. 

QuABB Abbey, 17, 19, 23. 
Queen's Bower, 64, 74. 

Red Olitf, 47. 
Bed Gun Path, 95, 112. 
Beed, Moses, 174. 
Eeeth Bay, 95, 108, 111. . 
Bew Down, 127. 

Farm, 126, 128. 

Street, 190. 

Bichmond, Legh, 33, 34, 51, 62, 

59, 63, 70, 123. 
Bocken End, 110, 111. 
Boes Hall, 144. 
Boman Villa, 179, 183, 190. 
Bookly, 120. 
Bowborough Bottom, 161, 186. 

Farm, 162, 186. 

Boyal Victoria Yacht Club, 1, 5. 

George, 6. 

Bussell, Sir Theobald, 53. 

Sir WiUiam, 35, 87, 63. 

Byde, 1, 191. 



Byde House, 17. 
Waterworks, 27. 

St. BoNiPAcaB Down, 87. 
St. Catherine's Lighthouse, 

108, 111. 

Down, 112, 114. 

St. Clare, 14. 

St. Christopher's Down, 140. 
St. George's Down, 120, 187. 
St. Helens, 10, 12, 14. 

Church, 16. 

Dover, 12. 

Green, 13, 14, 16. 

St. John, 14. 
St. .Lawrence, 90. 

Church, 94. 

Cottage, 94. 

Well, 94. 

St. Martin's Down, 88. 
Sandown, 29, 37, 39, 42. 
Sandrock Hotel, 95. 

Sprmg, 97. 

Sconce Point, 148. 
Scatchell's Bay, 106, 187, 14 . 

143, 145. 
Sea Grove Bay, 11. ' 
Sea View, 10, 14, 15. 
Sewell, Miss Elizabeth, 79, 92, 

95, 115, 116. 
Shag Bock, 56. 
Shalcombe Down, 106, 160. 
Shalfleet, 153, 154. 
Shamblord, 164. 
Shanklm, 29, 38, 39, 45, 46. 66, 

83, 86. 

Chine, 68, 87. 

Down, 72. 

Sheat Manor House, 118. 
Sheepwash Farm, 128. 
Shepherd's Chine, 180, 133. 
SMde, 120, 187. 
Shingles, 147. 
Shipledge, 130. 
Shorwell, 90, 101, 186. 
Slatwoods, 166. 
Sloven's Bush, 126. 
Smallbrook, 23, 26. 



INDEX. 



199 



Sonthampton, Earl of, 188. 
Southlands, 98, 110. 
Span Down, 127. 

Farm, 126, 128. 

Spring Vale, 10, 15. 
Stag Bock, 136, 144. 
Standen, East, 187. 
Stapler's Heath, 25, 120. 
Steephm Castle, 76, 93. 

Cove, 107. 110. 

Down, 112, 127. 

Stenrbury, 117. 

Down, 127. 

Stephenson, B., 165. 
Stirling, John, 78, 79, 91. 
Sadmore, 134. 
Sullons, 188. 
Sun Comer, 145. 
Swanmore, 23. 
Swanston, 157. 

Tapnkl, 160. 
Tarborrel Hill, 130. 
Tenacres Bay, 108, 111. 
Tennyson, Alfred, 79, 106, 137, 

138. 
Thomess Bay, 150, 191. 
Tichbome Dole, 103. 
Tinker's Lane, 191. 
Tolland Bay, 147, 148, 150. 

IJndeboliff, 90. 
Ursula, 116. 

ViOTOBIA FOBT, 148. 

Ventnor, 29, 39, 75. 

Walbbidge, Elizabeth, 123. 
Walpen Chine, 129, 133. 
Walton, Izaak, 193. 
Warden Battery, 150. 
Watch House Point, 12. 
Watcombe Bay, 138, 144. 
Watershoot Bay, 110, 111. 



Week Down, 117, 127. 
Wellington, Duke of; 176. 
Westcourt, 102. 

Bottom, 161, 186. 

Western Lines, 83. 
Westfield, 17. 
Westover, 157, 161. 
Whale Chine, 101, 129, 183. 
Whately, Archbishop, 66. 
Whippingham Church, 166, 170. 

Station, 41. 

Whitcombe, 119. 
White's Chine, 130. 
White Cliff Bay, 48, 50, 56. 
Whitefield, 29. 
White, Bev. James, 79. 
White Shute, 39. 
Whitwell, 112, 117. 

Shute, 94. 

Wilberforce, 103. 
Wilfrid, Bishop, 12, 30. 
Wilkes, John, 44, 62. 
Wilson, Professor, 79. 
Winford, 64. 
Wishing Well, 88. 
Wood, Dr., 135. 
Woolverton, 55, 94, 101, 102, 

108. 
Wootton Bridge, 17, 22, 28, 191. 

Church, 24, 192. 

Lodge, 193. 

Worsley Obelisks 126, 128. 

Sir Bichard, 56, 125. 

Tower 148. 

Wroxall, 39,' 40, 73, 125, 128. 
Down, 88. 

Yab, 135, 149, 151. 
Yarborough, Monument, 49, 57. 
Yarbridge, 36, 37. 
Yarmouth, 107, 147, 150, 151. 
Yaverland, 33, 52. 
Yellow Ledge, 46, 71, 87. 



LONDON : PSIKTED BT EDWABD SlikNFOBD, 56, CHABINO CB086, 8.W. 



GILLOW'S FURNITURE 



GILLOW & C° 

FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS 

LANCASTER 

ALSO MANUFACTURERS OF 

PARQUET FLOORS 

EITHER FIXED OR PORTABLE 



DESIGNS & PRICES ON APPLICATION 



ADTEBTI8EUENTS. 



LODORE HOTEL 

AT THH HBID <a 

DEfiWENTWATEZt, KESWICK, 



THE kbore flnt-daw EgtabliBhment vu enlaiged eapeeiftll]' for an 
Holsl In iai6. Il li ■ttaUe no the lunin of tbe Uke, uid U rnlete wllh pvrrr 
KUdem ImpnmiDuA snUdnkii Uut LarraM OiDee Hscoi Ln Uh I^ke DiiUlct. mi«ni£- 
«nt LidlH' GaH^ Room, PrlrUft Slttil« Boonu, and 81x1; Beda: Hot tnd Odd Bulii, 
aod evei7 otber scwmmadMlciii itqulred In ■ Dnt-clun hotel. It & dellghlfUllr Hliuti^ 
In Its <ma Pktjatn tironitda, vbLob elopa dovn to U» mu^ of the Laksp umI Uke wid- 
dawi conimiiail tbe enndut aaaterj In tbe dlititcl, nnbncJr^ tt» whole sT DeiveiiE- 
wuer wUh lu nuJeaUo mimncdDS. Tbe ceW>nl«d Fillt of Lodn* m« la Ibe Pricii; 
OnHmda St Uw rev of tfas Hotal. FirtlHQMUvlncMlliaHaMliiuiit biiepermbBl^ai 
fmiB Oa PmprMor w Tlaw (lu Fall! and Onianda. Flditng ti«e^ a tbitd of Di>rwai(- 
Ksler Lidle baknglng to Ibe Oimer of (hla HoUL Partiea Boarded bj Week oc MonU. 
Ad OmnilHU ineeM Ibe Trabn at the Keawlck Rallnj Sbitloo. and also mnB in coooKliiKi 
with Klgc*! Kojal MdIL Cooebn from WlDdnmerr. BoUi BQpi^led direct, and Poatlni 
In inilabnuKbei. Coach to Butlermen. dall;. Table d'HOle. BUUank and CtmiiKi 
LawD. Partia taken to Ckwxk im Stm^yt ^rte itT Ckargt. 

J. BXX>TSt Proprietor. 



ADTEBHSBUENTB. 



z>E:iE^7x:NXTr^x£:R lake. 

THE BORROWDAIB HOTEL, 

BOBEOWDALE, KESWICE, 

^atrimijtft bg i.^J. t^ {rfatu af IBbIm, |riiict %tt^, 
anti l^t JFmtring ^hiiitg at AiiRt 9"ts<''- 



aboTB luBe atabllihnieiit It Um aaly Holfl dtuttd Immediately u the H«il ol 
iBonuo' 11 Ui* tntnnce of the piciumuDe Vile or Bonowdilf, ind oimmuidB th* 
KnuidHl Tlewiof I^k«, UaQoUiiu, tnA VaUefioT IbiilhemDil ronunLlo pan ot llie 
Laka DtiOinl. Full» TlalUna Ihla Hotel miy mfely rely upon the best atteDluice uid 
illUiecomfeTtiodiome, An Omnlliiii nmU >U TrUiu u Ihc Keswick Ijutlan. PotllaE 
lo jj] Jtf bnj)di€K. UouatAlQ Pontei, eip«rleD«d Gukl«i Boean e n, he iiooA Boktlng 
on itie Like. Flablng Free to Iboee nsjlpg Id Ok BhieI. 

HOI, OOLD, AND 8B0WBS BATHS. 

PARTIES BOARDED BY DAY, WEEK, OR HDNTH, ON REASONABLE TERMS. 

E. B. GOODPELLOW, PaoPEiBToa. 
F 2 



ADVEBTIBEMENTS. 



The Eoyal Oak Hotel, 

KESWICK, DERWENTWATER, 

TS the Largest and Oldest Established Commercial 
and Family Hotel, and most centrally sitiiated. This 
Establishment has had the honour of receiving the patron- 
age of the late Queen Dowager, H.B.n. the Prince of 
Wales, the King of Saxony, the Grand Duke Constantine 
of Bossia, &o., &c. 

Families and Tonrists visiting the English Lakes who 
may favour this Hotel with their patronage will meet with 
every comfort and accommodation, combined with moderate 
charges. 

Hot, Gold, and Shower Baths. Billiards. 

Posting in all its branches. Mountain Ponies and Guides. 

A Coach to Buttermere and Crummock Lakes every 
morning during the Season 

N.B. — Omnibuses and Servants from the Hotel are iuj 
attendance on all the Trains, at the Station door. 



WILLIAM WILSON, 

I*roprietor. 



AOYEBTIBE1IENT8. 



TO T0T7BISTS AND OTHERS. 



JOHN BIRKETT, 

PRACTICAL WATCHMAKER, 




MARKET PLACE, KESWICK. 



THS ULBGEST STOOK OF MINERALS IN THE WHOLE 

LAKE DISTRICT. 



The principal and original Manufacturer of the Sldddaw, Scawfell, 
and other Granitea, miule firom Specimens personally selected, and 
suitable for Presents and Souvenirs of the Lake District 

Je^rel Gaskets, made from a variety of Ornamental Onyx, and Agate 
Gkods in great variety. 

Gold and Silver Watches, Clocks, and Timepieces of the newest 
D^gns. Fine Gold Jewellery, including Diamond Rings, both new 
and second-hand, at very low prices. Silver-plated Artides of every 
description. 

Finest Whitby Jet and Irish Bog Oak Ornaments. Field and 
Opera Glasses, Telescopes, Thermometers, Barometers, Pocket Com- 
passes, Spectacles and J^eglasses, Musical Instruments, &c. 

The Pocket Aneroid Buometer, an instrament most valuable to the 
tourist, being a guide to the weather, and giving the elevations above 
the sea-leveL iUao the Pedometer, which gives the distances travelled 
by the pedestrian. 

The " Surprise Stone Locket" of Keswick, containing Sixteen Views 
of the District, sent to any address for 9 postage stamps. 

Repairs in any of the above Branches carefully and promptly attended 
to. Engraving done to order. Observe the Address — 

BIBXETT, MABKET PLACE, KESWICK. 

(Opfositb Funtoit's Modkl.) ' 



6 ADYEBTISEMSNTS. 



MAYSON'S 



ORDNANCE MODEL 



or THE 



ENGLISH UKE DISTRICT, 

LAKE EOAD, KESWICK. 

ADMISSION, ONE SHILLING FOR THE SEASON. 



The above Model is constnioted Matbematicftlly from the 6-mcli 
(Gk)Teniment) Ordnance Survey, and shonld be first consulted by all 
IbLcursionists who visit the Metropolis of the Lake District, whether 
for one day or months, who care to snow what f o see and where to go. 
Amongst a large number of noted oritiqueB are the following : — 

Fbom thb AsTSONomB RoTAL.— " I have examined many parts of the Modd very 
QirefoUy, and am much pleased with iti acconu^.*' 

aept 23. 1876. G. B. Amr. 

From thb Rbv. Gahon Rtlx, M.A.-^" I have examined MsyBon's Model of the Lake 
District with deep iaterwt— after staying at Keswick for two months every year for seven 
years, and carefully studying the conntiy round the place. I consider the Model c-z- 
tremely well executed, and calculated to convey an lmmeDBe*amonnt of infonnatkm to < 
visitors in a very short time." 

Aug. f, 1B76. Jobs a Rtul 

**It is perhaps impossible to ppesk too highly of this model. Its value, from an I 
educattonal point of view. Is very high. Being oon^'tmcted from slx>inch Ordnanos 
M^M, its geographical accuracy is ensured, and the detailed carnring out of the wbok ' 
thing is exceUent." J. Gunoir Wabd, H.M, Geological Survey. , 

** Mayson's Ordnanoe Model of the Lake District is perhaps one of the most finished , 
specimens of Geographical Modelling ever constmoted in England. A few minuted 1 
Inspection of it will |^ve the tourist a better knowledge of the topography of the cofontry I 
than can be obtained flram any other source."— i/snHnson'i Pramccd Ouidt to tkt 

A very large mUeeUon of PHOTOOBAPHIC VIEWS by Payne 

JennmgSf Frith, PeUitt, Ferguieon, &c. I 

PIAN0F0BTE8 AND HARMONIUMS ON SALE OR HIRE. 

FBOFBSSIONAL TUNIBB KEPT. 



Keswiok Mubbum of Looal Natcsal Histobt and FlintoftW 
Model of the English Lake Distbiot exhibited in the Town HaOJ 
Keswiok. Admission for the Season, One Shilling. ^ 

For Beviews of Keawiek Mtueum and of Fl%rUo/f$ Modd, see opinioni 
'^f Scientific Men and the Press. 



ADVEBTISEMENTS. 



:00 



coc 



s 



oo 



i 

i 



i 



»««o .o«oeo«e .•» . a» .e 



Ok . Ok . oo««a»e 



.« leor- l«akoaoak«D l«o Im I««ftp4 I |« loo i r^vpgt-o ' 



OOftM .•MOkWOk* .• .« 



Ok . e . oeokoee 



.« Ib«« lok^tigOT^m In Ife losw I lo l« Is3!5fi5% ' 



O«D«0MO« 



••8 '9SSS 'asssss; If; >8 'sax > i;:; 's '«aAS£;ss ■ 



WoIihSI M r^nm *N «4*4 MtO 



i6»«A^U4iAflft6««w«Deoak 
«^akai«o4«i»4p«^floo«afit> 



•^akoOMOokAOk «e«e«DO «akO<De«ak«eakweoo«oeemo 

4SS9"9;:8S'xsasi£:9sas8ssas:!*8as8Sss 



^»«o««o«e«D (POkoo e«»eoakako«akm«eoe««««Do 



.ao«l«o<-««t<9i ^o^MaoOTOkt-flkOkMOk lfe><eM«aomaofe> 

• M»«OT MtHiHtH ri *NtH tH Si VN vH i-l f4 v« *4>4*Ni4iH 



,^ |<4««oak «kO««D « MeookeeooMomtDoakOk wmMOOkOkme 

I wSS;:; 'SSSR 's l8S«89S3SS;SS3S ':::S;3888S» 



•^oook OTeookM « ak<Da»akakmoooak««o •eokeooMteo 



i 
t 

i 



^««« oookok « ««eoak«De«D«eoako«oo . tookneoMOow 
.^os l««40<e lot I eoak«i-iaDo>-)oo«aoo MOk I aoiOMiet»eo«« 

•CMv^M M*Np4r4 14 p4 *4Mi4p4^p4 *4IH *4^4p4p4p4 



I 



I 



••SS8 >8S£;a 'S ls;SSS9SS88SSSS IS8&a(S:8*S 



•veokok 



« . «ak«»eeoake««emak . ootDMeoetook 



49SS8 '9898 'S 's;3SX8s3a8SSaa(S issassKSS 



•««fto«DO«D nakewovetewwwewoweoeoweoakOkmmn e 
.wv-iOOBOB I t>«ot»«b>eQe«fa*4ak«cp4«B*4flkaoiOQeiOOMt» I co 

•1*4*401 *4 A p4l4F4e9p4 p4p4 ^4 *4 «4 M *4 



•ijo«a»m» •»o<eo«okOOk«M«emeoeeMmoakak«o«D«« «d 

4Cl*4M^ei *4m9S *4*4p44ln*4*4fli*4MM*4*4 p4 ^ *4 p4 «4 M 



•^«D«Dea»«« e««o«Dakmom««»Oi««««iaD»«o«Dakak«DO . Ok 

4S89Sfe <SS8SSSSgilS;8«SS8aS83S«88:^8aS 's 



•^eoke »eo»«ooe vokVMt 

rfa*a 'aasssa '9"'-sa*S2a**s 



«Dakeak«o«o«» evokOkOkMeo 



•ij««ok •oktoetoo oeo««ftoo«o«oeo»« woketDOkOkokw 

48S8 'sssass >8S9&9S£;aass£:s 'sassaas** 



•(jMoko ««aokooe ok«o«e«e<eo««ooo oieo«teo«»«« 

4988 '^aaaea 'assasaasa&aas 'ssaesa^a 




i»iis 



i 



i 



Q 



I"k ii' 



8 ADVI!BTISI!HENT& 



WIllllS&iiS%S %.MMM. 



LAKESIDE HOTEL. 

This Excellent Old-established Hotel is beautifully situated at the 
foot of the Lake, ad[joiniiig the Lakeside Station of the Forness 
Railway. 

CONVEYANCES AND PLEASURE BOATS. 



Address : UKESIDE HOTEL, via OARNFORTH. 

/. BBOWNy Proprietor. 
Also of the QXTEEirS HOTEL, AMBLESIDE. 

THE ENGLISH LAKES. 



SKIDDAW TEMPEEANCE HOTEL 

(JBe-&ttt^, considerably Enlarged^ and Be-^fumiehedjy 

MAIN STREET, KESWICK, 

Jn clote prwimity to the Banks, Post and Telegraph Office, de. 

Coffee Boom, Publio Drawing Boom, Commercial Boom, Private Sitting 

Booms, Bath Boom, Lavatory, &c., &o. 

Extennve and vnirUerrupted views of ShiddaWf Lake Denoenlwater and 

iwrounding eoenery. 



LARGE PUBLIC HALL FOR PIC-NIC PARTIES, SC HOOL TRIPS, 4c. 

Post Hortefl, Mountain Ponies, and Gnides to all parti of the Lake District. 

N.B. — ^A Coach leaves the Hotel at 10 a.m. every morning during the 
season for BUTTEBMEBE, via the romantic Vale of Borrowdale and 
over the majestic Honister Pass, returning through the Vale of New- 
lands— the best drive in the whole district 



ABTERTiaBHENTS. 



HOGARTH i HAYES, 

Bnoauau lo A. Wh>, 

BLACK LEAD PENCIL 

MASUFACTOEEBS. 

I Olwmlbe Addnw: 

I Sonttiey Hill Fendl Works, 
KESWICK, 

^iDAtod adjidnliie the gnmndi of 
■be Ule poel SODTHn, ut Uk right 
at OiMi BiMte, •» the wij to 
Oothmlte ChsRli. 

VWUn«u hat* Ihdc own nuiu* 
ImpfMul on Pndli with GoU to' 
saTtrLetttn. 

AdmlHion Fth. Cirdi to b« 
oUalDcd St U7 of Uh Hotel* w 



lUPOBTAN'T TO TOITBISIS. 



TMM. TlCTOaSA HOXEX,, 



the propriettea to offer to TooiistB BQd Vislton to the Lttke Diitriot 
dverv comfort oombined with Uodeiate Ohaiees. 

YiOTOiUA HoTKL IS situated unoDsat toe rooat channioK i 



whiob maj here be enjoyed to Te^etion, tho Lakes and Btreama 
abounding with Troat and Char. Fiahing Parties may conBdently 
rely opon meeting with every attention, the promotim of whoea com- 
fort will aver be we study of the proprietwea. 

Lnncheon ready every day faan 1 o'clock till *. Private Dinuan at 
any hour. Special arrangementa cao be nuwle with parties tat Board 
and BeHJdence by the Week or Month. 

Nedt Oonvayenoee, Pmt Horseo, Honntain FonleB, and trnstworth' 
GoUm anpplied. Boats aapplied. 



10 ADYEBTISEBfENTS; 



<« IMPERIAL ^ATTEKDAJ^.^^Wesfa Guide. 



ULLSWATER LAKE HOTEL, 

FITIEBDALE, FEHBITH. 



Tbib New and Gommodlous Hotel has recently Yteea considerably embeUished and 
enlarged, and besides the aooouimodation of a firBfr<^aas eetablishmenti now contains a 
llAONnriCKKT Laddbs* Ooffxb Book and Eleven Private Sitting Booms. It is beaati- 
ftilly situate on the margin of UUswater, within a few yards of the Steamboat Pier, and 
fiommands most charming and varied views of the lake and of the wild secluded glens 
and lofty ragged heights wiih which this highly ^cturesqoe and beaatlftil iiei^boiir- 
hood is €fa every side sorroonded. Immediately behind the hotel Is the ramsntlc 
wooded height called Sty Barrow Crag, the summit <tf which onmrnandw one of the most 
extensive aid beantUtal panoramic views in the Lake Ooontry. 

The Hotel stands in the midst of several acres of Pleasnre and Becreatioii Gronnds, 
extending to the maigtai of the lake, where are nmneroos Fleasore Boats and Private 
TiBndlngH. The Steamer starts from the frier in front of the Hotel daily, aifoidfa^ an 
eai7 and ddightfid means of seeing all the magnificent scenery bordering UUswater. 

The Fall of Aira Force Is within a short distaooe, and this Is the most oonvenient 
station for ascendingHelvelljm. 

Tourists visiting UUswater c*n bocdc through ftom Keswick by Bail and Ooacfa. 



TODD'S 

QUININE WINE. 



MM*N^k^^^^^«^^^«> 



TUB elegant and renowned preparation of genuine 
Qninine stands nnsnrpassed for purity, strength, and 
flavoar, and is nniversally approved hy the Medical 
Profession. It is the best, safest, and most agreeable 
remedy known for Indigestion, Loss of Appetite, 
Nenrousness, Tio or NenraSigia, Ague, Debility, Spasms, 
and all derangement of the Stomach. 

JOE TODD, Chemist, Carlisle, 

And bent Us name on the Ciownment Stamp. 
Sold at ds. 6d. per Sottle, by all Oliexnista. 

A8K FOB AND HAYB ONLT 

TODD'S QUININE WINE. 



ADVEBTISEMENTS. 11 



RIME'S AEMS HOTEl^, 

FATITTTiY, COMMB BCIAL, AND POSTING HOUSE. 

This (dd-«Btabli8hed flrst^laas Hotel will be found replete with every comfort and 
convenience, being sitoate in the central and most bosinev iMurt of the town. Kendal i« 
the best centre from which to visit the Long Sleddale and Eentmere Yalest Levens 
Hall, and other places of special Interest to the tourist 

Omnibiues meet eveiy train. Posting in all its branches. 

JAMES BELL, Png^rieUtr, 
THE MOST CENTRAL HOTEL IN THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

HUDSON'S 

The * RED LION' is the oldest established Hotel hi Grasmere, and is conveniently 
situated at the head of the Lake; it is quiet and select, and within 100 yards of the 
churchyard where lie the remains of Wordsworth and Coleridge, and near the Post Office. 
To meet the increasing requirements of his business, die Proprietor has made extensive 
additions to the Hotel, which will be found to possess every comfbrt and convenience for 
Tourists and Visitors. 

Posting in all its branches. PtoMure Boats on the Lake. Parties hi or seddng 
Lodgings supplied with every information. Wines, Sphits, ftc, of the finest quality. 
Ommbuses txam the Hotel meet the Steamers at Wateihead, Windermere. 

BITiT.XARPS. 

FAMILY & OOMMEROIAIj HOTEL, 

8AND0WN, ISLE OF WIGHT, 

Faoinq the Sea, 'with Lawn EXTENDma to the Beach. 



E. WAY, Pbopbubtbbbs. 



YORK HOTEL, 



9 

WUhin One MiwuUft WaXk qf the Sea Shore. 



Begs to assure Visitors to Sandown they will find both comfbrt and economy in patron- 
isinis the above HoteL Dinners, Luncheons, and Teaa, on the shortest notice. Wines 
and Spirits of the best quality. Superior Bottled and Draught Ales and Porter. Coffee 
and Commercial Rooms. The Hotel stands at the comer of Wilkes' Bosd, and fiMes 
Sandown Square. 



12 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

CABLE'S HOTEL AND RESTAURANT, 

mGH STEEET, YENTNOR. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 
A Fixed and Moderate Tariff. 

JOHN GABLE, Pbopbhtob. 



Nearest Hotel to the New Pier and Iklaime Drive. 

THE PABADE HOTEL. 

CHTTBCH WAIKS, LLAHPUDHO. 

ATHNSON'S LAKE HOTEL, EESWIGE, 

Is Bitoated oataide the town and nearest the Lake. The Hotel overlooks the Lake and 
its mountains round about. The position of this Hotel is unequalled In Eeewidc, and 
visitors will do well to see it before seeming apartments elsewhere. Posting in all its 
branches. An Omnibus meets the trains. 

M. ATKINSON, Pbopbibtob. 



W. W. OSBOBNE, POSTMASTER, 

BAXsmt emoosft, ahd gsss&ai; bsaxiXa, 

BSMBBIDGE, ISLE OF WIGHT. 



FREEMASONS' TAVERN, 

HIGH STREET, VENTNOB. 

WINES, SPIBITS, AIES, AND STOUT, OF THE FINEST QUAUTY. 
Private Sitting Booms and Good Beds. 

GEOBGE ADAMa, Proprietor. 



ADTEBTISEHENTS. 






THE KESWICK HOTEL. 



The HoUl cuQUlDfi veryhaadBoma OalfBetiaA DLning Roomi. elennt SuLtf* or AporL- 

meatt, ud BUlluil >oil SmoUDg Rooiul Fsmlll« may be boarded by tlie Week or 

Uoatta. by apaclBl urangemeni, beew«a th* monlbB of Odobec ud July. 

TA-BX-H D'HOTE XJA-ILTf. 

A Coach leaves IhiB Hotel darlDB the eaiuraerevFrjmonilDE for BottermereCSoDdaya 

^cepl«d\ et&jiDf foor boura la BulAermere. and returning Id Ume for Lbe eveiUDg 

(nlaa. Fan, U. CoailieB al» leaTB thia Bote) lor all paru gT lbe Lake Diglrict. 

Poat Hor*e*, UoniitaiiL Pouiea, and Conveyanoea of evei7 

deBoiiptlon Edways In tbeuUiisss. 

Onldoa, Boats, and Bxperlenoed Soatmen. 

The rlfflit ol nabiiiS' tn fho Onta. Telavraph on the Dremlaea. 



MI8B FBAXE, 
MISS 00LE8, 



^} 



PaoPBiEToaB, 



14 ADVEBTISEMENTB. 



TEE ENGLISH LA£ES aRASMEKE, 



THE ROTH AY HOTEL, 

FOBMXBLT ^'MOSB HbAD HOUSB," BUILT XXFBB88LT FOB THE LATE 

Eabl Oadoqait, 1871-2, and now 

A PIBST-CLASS HOTEL, 

With very superior aooommodation and attractions for VisltorB. It is sitnated in the 

eentre of the lovely Vale qf Oratmere, near to the charcfa, the resting place of the poets 

Wordsworth and H. Coleridge, and only a few minntesT walk fix>m the Lake. 

THE PRIVATE PLEASURE GROUNDS, 

Bounded upon three sides by the famous troutmtream, the River Rothay, are very attrac- 
tive, and unequalled in the district for extent and beauty, and are well adapted for 
Croquet, Archery, and Bowls, the requirements for whidi are ftimished by the Hotel 

AN EXCELLENT BILLIABD BOOM 

is also provided. 

COACHES In connection with the Railways and Steamers pass many thnes didly, 
and Visitors will find the Rothay Hotel most central for making DaOy ExcaisUws to 
all parts of the district. 

POSTING m EVERY BRANCH, 
BOATS ON THE UKE. FISHING FBOM THE PRIVATE GROUNDS. 

B. HUDSON, Proprietor. 



N.B.-^&APES, &c., GBOWN T7P0N THE P] 



:^. ■l;^:^: 



ADVEBTISEMENTS. 15 



Feap. 8n>, mCh Map, cloth, 5s. 
JENKmSON'S 

PRACTICAL GUIDE 



TO 



THE ISLE OF MAN, 



Also, a Smalleb Edition, /cop. 8vo, with Map, 2<. 



** The best aooonnt of the Island in a small compass which we have seen." — Oraphie. 

" Unlike most Onides it ia not only a book to oonsolt, bat a book worth reading." — 
PaU MaU Gagette. 

** To the tourist Mr. Jenkinson's Guide is, without doubt, a most practieal one. It is 
written tn a very plain, unassaming style, and the itineraries are evidently the produc- 
tions of one who has tramped over every foot of the several localities he so clearly 
describes." — Manx Heraid. 

London: EDWABD STANFORD, 55, Ohabino Cbobs, S.W. 



Fcap. Svo, foith Map, doth, 5<. 
JENKINSON'S 

PRACTICAL GUIDE 

TO 

CAKLISLE, GILSLAND, ROMAN WALL, 

AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 



Also, a Smallxb Edition, /cap. Svo, mth Map, 2$, 



** The details of the toon are given In a gossiping, handy wav, with a good deal of his- 
toftical matter. The whole cannot fitil to be useful to tounsta.'^--^(Aencnim. 

** To those who desire to visit this district we could recommend no more valuable 
companion than Mr. Jenkinson's * Practical Guide.' "-^y<Uure. 

** This work must prove as InteresUng to residents as it will be useful to visitors."^ 
Carlisle Journal. .^,.,.^,.,^,.,^,^,s,^^,.^.,^-.-x,.,^ 

London: EDWABD STANFORD, 55, Obabhtg Cbosb. 8.W. 



16 ADVSBTISEBfEMTS. 

Feap, 800, e2o<&, mih Tno Maps, 6«. 6d, 

JENKINSON'S 

PRACTICAL GUIDE 

TO 

NOBTH WALES. 



AUOy a Smalleb Edition, fcap. Svo, vnth Map, paper covers, 

28, 6d. ; limp cloth, 8«. 6c2. 



The Complete Guide in Five Seotionb: 

Chesteb — Llandudno — Bettws t coed and Snowdon — 
Dolgellet and Bala — Llangollen and Abebtstwtth. 

With Map, price 1<. 6d. each. 



London : EDWAED STANFORD, 55, Chabino Cboss, S.W. 



With Nine Maps, fcap. 8yo» cloth, ei. 

JENKINSON'S PRACTICAL GUIDE 

TO THB 

ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. 



CONTENTS : 
Introduction— How to Spend a Flying Visit to the I^ke»— A Fourteen Days' Pedes- 
trian Tour— -Charges for Conveyances, Ponies, and Guides — Heif^ts of Mountains, Lskes, 
Tarns, and Passes— Local Names, Meteorology, Gteology, Botany, and Mineralogy. 

Wlin>KRlCEBK — LANGDALX — GRASMBBX — CONISTON — KSSWICK — BUTTBKICESE^-' 

Wastwatkb, and Ullswatks Sbctions ; containing full Information and Instractioac 
respecting Walks, Drives, Boating, Ascents, Excursions, &c. 

%* Portions of the book are also published in Sections, with Maps, price it. 6<L eacL 

I. Kxswick; U. TViNDBKicxRs and Lanodals; III. Coniston, Bdttbbxese, azid 

Wastwatxb; IY. Gbabicebb and Ullswatbb. 



Also, a Smalleb Edition, with Map, la. 6c2. 



m : EDWABB STANFORD, 55, Gharing Cross, S.W. 

I 



* f 



f' 



^ 






H ,- 



r 

!• 



. « 



«>ok is under n 
*^«n from , 




i 



I- 



.< •